RBX 88 4Runner Diesel Swap

'88 4Runner Oil Burner Swap
Howdy TDI Club smart people, my name is RB and I live in Baltimore Maryland. I have never owned a diesel, and am just learning about that technology. My knowledge of the typical gasser is far better.

I am going to swap out the gasser to install a proper truck engine. Diesel, Diesel, Diesel

Currently the truck is a V6 Automatic slug, that gets poor mpg at best. The reason i bought this truck was to take long extended road trips with my wife and son. Although my son in the next few years won't be interested in taking road trips with his folks, this vehicle will suit my wife and myself just fine.
The current rig (constantly under the knife):
As I bought her last September

As of February '11 with Can-Back topper dominating the driveway...haha.

My build thread:
http://www.yotatech.com/f199/rbx-88-4runner-build-up-thread-221587/index12.html

The original plan was to drop a 1UZF-E (Lexus V8) into her, for the serious 'hot-rod' factor. However, the more I thought about it the more i realized that the initial plan would not be as fruitful as I would like. Sure the V8 would sound amazing, and give her a bit more scoot, but the fun verse fuel cost would quickly make this vehicle cost prohibited to take on long trips. The main plan for the vehicle is to make it a bit of an expedition vehicle.
Now the build begins, which is why my Toyota is being posted here.
The TDI swap interests me on multiple levels, one being the robust knowledge found for these amazing little diesels, not to mention the efficiency.
I have read tons of forums, but every time I find myself here.

I want this to be a mechanical direct injection 1.9 turbo, for simplicity, and reliability (water crossings), but still have the possibility to go ECU later.

If you were me, what engine would you use, or head/block/intake combo(numbers)? From what car in the US?

Thanks for the help, I am very overwhelmed by all of the information, and am not really sure where to start when it comes to these engines.

Cool idea. I think the ALH engine and 5 speed transmission would be best. The ALH has is tried and true. You'll may want to slap on a few parts to up the power, like injectors/tune, maybe a bigger turbo.

There are a number of Toyota truck swaps on here, as I'm sure you know, and I bet those guys wouldn't mind sharing some insight.

What's a 1st gen 4runner weigh? I've read 3800-4300 w/ passengers and gas.

Thanks for the reply.
I definitley plan on adding a few parts to give her more pep. Part of my problem now is decifering all the engine codes. It seems that there are block numbers/letters and head numbers/letters...am i missing something?

Yep 3800lbs-ish, but that is curb weight. Jimbote says he likes the way his Taco pulls, compared to the 3RZ lump that it came with.

If you are set on going to a mechanical pump, i would find a 1Z or AHU. If you use a ALH you will have to find a way to control the VNT turbo, it's not impossible but not exactly easy. As for a transmission your options are a W56 from a 4 cylinder or a R151 from a turbo 4 cylinder, assuming you want to use the ACME adapter kit. If not your choices are pretty much endless.

I would strongly encourage you to use the ECU, it is actually quite simple once you figure it out. On my swap, i only needed to connect 3 wires to the Toyota wiring to get the engine running. After that there were only a couple more to get warning light and gauges working. Also from what i have heard a good mechanical pump runs about $1600 from Giles. That money would equal a chip, turbo and injectors at least if you were to keep the ECU. Also having OBDII is very handy for setting injection timing and diagnosing other problems.

Luke

LukeWilson,
Thanks for the tips.
I want the mechanical pump for simplicity and dependability....a water crossing.....state park....many many miles from a road.... I'm not ruling out an ECU, but i want to focus on the mechanical..for now.
I thought i could modify some pumps to achieve the higher HPs for cheaper then $1600. I definitely saw then for that much, but i was hoping to find one and rebuild/mod it...maybe not a good idea?
Wiring doesn't intimidate me, i am very familiar with my rigs wiring schematics, as i spent a large amount of time this winter, fixing ghetto wiring from the PO, and adding wiring for lights, OBA, 400watt inverter... I really like the fact i could tune the ECU with my laptop using VAG-COM...right?
On your build, how did you address the engine tilt? I thought they are tilted at 20* in the fwd cars, can you just modify the oil pickup?

thanks,

Oh, and i'll be making my own adapter plate to use a R150f to push the engine a bit closer to the radiator, so i can snealk the exhaust around the back of the head, and down the driver side.

Assuming the wiring is sealed up properly (the VW connectors are all weatherproof), these ECU's have no history of failing. I have had most of my engine submersed and water coming in the doors a few times and the engine didn't even hesitate. My ECU is inside the cab up by the glovebox in the sealed VW case, I would have other problems to deal with if i was in water that deep. I think there are other ways of making your own pump, but i think the general consensus is to go with giles for a reliable pump that will vary fuel input based on boost. I think there are a few chinese pumps for cheap, but that would kind of defeat the whole reliability thing.

You can use VagCom to adjust pump timing, glow plug length, idle rpm and a few other things. For modifying the actual fuel map you need to go a tuner, usually costs about $300 for a tune from a reputable source.

The adapter plate has the tilt built into it, you shouldn't have to worry about modifying the oil pickup or anything. I did have to put a dent into my oil pan to clear my front diff though, you may have to do this depending on how you choose to mount the engine.

I love the canvas top, where did you get it?


Luke

Thanks Luke.
So no issue with standing the engine up straight other then clearance? I was afraid that oil drain would be an issue.

I actually found the Canvas top on craigslist locally, I got real lucky. These used are scarce, especially around Baltimore.

You do want the engine laid over at 20 degrees. Since you are building your own plate, just build that 20 degrees into the plate. It will be pretty easy once you have a drawing of both bolt patterns with the input shaft as the reference. You can just clock the engine against the transmission to a place where there is no bolt hole interference.

But why do i need to retain the engine tilt? The TDI comes in many flavors, why is the 20* important..oil pickup?
I believe there are 50* kits for Vanagon swaps, why couldn't i tilt it the other way to free up starter/turbo space?
Just asking because i don't know and can't seem to get an answer thru searching.

Thanks

In your case it probably doesn't matter since you are moving the engine forwards, in my case i needed the tilt to gain some clearance. Other than the oil pick up issues, i don't really see any reason why i can't be done. Someone else may want chime in about how the pump would operate at a non-stock angle, not sure if that might become a problem at some point.

Luke

Have you considered using an AAZ? The engine VW used right before the TDI... it's an IDI 1.9L turbodiesel, a bit rare in the States, but they can be had, I'm putting one in my Syncro Vanagon. With an intercooler, hi-perf IP and good intake/exhaust plumbing they can be tuned to put out TDI power, and are very simple machines. They evolved into the 1Z.

Love the truck, esp. the canvas top. I used to own a red '86 SR5 with a quarter million miles on it, eventually it became unsafe due to rusted body-mount points.

Re: '88 4Runner TDI

RBX,
I'm only echoing a lot of what I've found here. The AHU/1Z is a pretty versatile motor for this swap. Moving things forward from the get go is a good idea - in my '84 truck, if I had half an inch less space at the firewall, I'd have to do the same. I am cutting it as close as possible at the head/firewall meeting, with my oil pressure sensor, coolant flange, and wiring loom bracket custom fabbed to barely make it all work. I only have 3/4" clearance at the sway bar/power steering pump on my straight axle version, too, so moving the engine and transmission forward would have actually been tricky in that regard.

With the tilt, I split the difference between the engine and transmission wanting to rotate toward the passenger's side and the transfer case clocking that way, vs. the clearance of the steering gear and the turbo's proximity to the frame. I have 11-12 degrees of tilt and will have to watch my oil level. I shimmed up the t-case a little when I (carefully) designed motor mounts. Replace the crossmember mount with a heavy duty one from TrailGear.

I'd recommend the R151 changeout. I wish I could have done it, but my G52 should end up working out fine. An ALH intake manifold ($0-40-80) easily changes your IM orientation on the 1Z/AHU, and you might even find some nice forum member to just ship you one out of the kindness of his TDI-lovin' heart.

I was also able to sell the fully rolling '97 Passat body and remainders for a decent chunk of money which was put toward the swap. I experienced the running motor in the Passat for a few months, which familiarized me with the motor's characteristics, and it got me the ECM/OBDII/wiring harness, accelerator pedal, sensors, turbo exhaust flange, etc... as well.

The 1Z/AHU also has quality timing belt kits and tools readily available through Bora Parts, MetalNerd, DieselGeek, and a couple of other reputable VW places, and at reasonable prices, too.

One tricky part with the 1Z/AHU in the Toyota chassis is the oil filter housing/oil cooler and crafting the driver's side motor mount around that confluence of hoses and metal. I have yet to determine if I will be able to use the stock oil stand/oilcooler combo, if I have to have one from an AEB motor, which angles back toward the firewall, or if I will have to fab an adapter for a remote oil filter. I would prefer option 2, for what it's worth...

Can't recommend ACME Adapters enough. Things bolted together more easily than I expected, and the starter appears to be the clockable, torquey thing of beauty I need. Jeff answers his phone and my questions whenever I call, even on a Sunday when I'm clearly interrupting his weekend and playtime with his kids.

TDIClub is an amazing resource. Without it, I would not have immersed myself in this swap, which has proven far better (and already yielded better real world results) than any technical training I could have gotten in 5 months

Looking forward to seeing you take off with this ~ good luck!

Again, thank you all for your knowledge.
Let me digest the above and bother you all with more questions.
The engine numbers are a huge help

hello !!
awesome truck, im excited to see more toyota tdis. So with my swap i opted to go the route of keeping my r150f and making my own adapter plate. one reason being that i didnt want to spend 600$ for an acme one. i also like the gearing in the r150f alot better. It has a taller 5th gear which will help for highway cruisin. you should check out my thread to see some of my trials and tribulations in the whole process. Some of the problems with using the r150 setup is that the flywheel is an 8 hole instead of 6. that means redrilling seems alomost impossible to me. or atleast very unsafe. i did find a company that would make a custom flywheel for me for a fairly reasonable price. the bellhousing is also quite a bit bigger which makes for a slightly tighter arrangement. i pmed you a thread that has the the adapter pattern for the 4cylinder trannys but it wont work for your needs. Honestly i have to say that all said and done making my own adapter plate and having a new flywheel made, doesn't come out a whole lot cheaper than buying acmes. not to mention the hours and hours of time i put into it. I still have a template of my adapter and i am working on making a solid works version of it. pm me and we could talk about how i could help if you want. i also ended up making my own clockable starter. i used the 3rz starter with the 2kw output option. which was a must in my setup. Acme seems like an awesome company and if i were to do it all over again i may just use them. allthough i am quite happy with how mine has turned out.
-Sam

Thanks Sam
I have subscribed to your thread.
I thought the v6 flywheel had 6 holes, not eight....iI've been wrong before. I was under the impression that you need to use the V6(toyota) flywheel, but the 22re bellhousing.
reading so many threads lately, and i can't remember what worked with what...this is a problem i usually have....immerse myself to the point of confusion, what good is the information i read if i can't keep it in order.

Just had a thought....Maybe i make two adapters. One uses the bellhousing to block, clock it so the starter is away from the block. The second adapter would go between the bellhousing and the transmission, this would let you correct the clocking from the engine to the bellhousing...i don't know...just thinking out-loud.

so the 22re bellhousing definitely will not fit on the r150f. and yes unfortunately all v6 flywheels are 8 bolt. and dang thats an awesome idea about the two adapter plates.
-Sam

Right now i have a complete 22re with the W56 behind it. The 4cyl flywheel is 6 bolt? So maybe i use a 4cyl flywheel and a v6 bell and trans?

Thats an idea! a couple of things i would wonder about. the 22re flywheel is smaller in diameter than the v6 flywheel, so i would wonder about starter gear engagement. Also clutch fork engagement. also are the splines the same between the two? they probably are. anyways just thinking out loud, certainly where there is a will there is a way. I found someone to make me a custom billet steel flywheel with the vw pattern for 300+ dollars. if you have access to a machine shop it woulnt be hard at all to make your own. i would do it myself except my lathe is from 1904. not the most accurate thing anymore.
-Sam

Hmmm, i will have to check into the flywheel size.

according to some threads on pirate4x4, the diameter of the flywheels, between the v6 and 22re are the same.

It depends on the year of the 22re, from 81- October 92 they were 8-7/8". From November 92-95 they were 9-5/16", which was the same diameter as the V6 flywheels. I guess this is what you want:

http://www.marlincrawler.com/clutch/flywheel/flywheel-i4-24-liter-9-516

Luke

Also the 22re-t flywheels were all 9-5/16" as well.

Nice find Luke.
and unfortunately i have an 87 22re, with a W56 mated. Looks like i need to get another 4cyl flywheel, at least it isn't too expensive.

Can anyone tell me if i could use a 2.0TDI? I have a possible line on an engine from craigslist.

I asked:
I am looking for an AHU engine with manifolds, harness & ECU(pre-immobilizer, i think before 99.5)

Here is what he wrote:
Only engine i have before 99.5 is a 2.0 out of a 1997. Im not sure of the code but i can check for you if the AHU is also a 2.0.

I just need some clarification on this. Perhaps i need to get more familiar with model years.

Thanks

As far as i know there are no 2.0 TDI's until '06 when they went to common rail, at least that were originally from north america. The only thing i'm thinking as that he is talking about a gasser engine, there were plenty of those prior to 99.5.

The 1Z and AHU engines were used in Passat's and Jetta's from '96-'97, after that they used the ALH in the Golf's and Jetta's till '04. The pre-99.5 ALH engines were pre-immobilizer i think. In '04 and '05 they used the PD engine and then went to common rail in '06.

Luke

thanks luke

It's a gasser, confirmed. He does have an ALH -*99.5 to 03 & BEW - 04 - 07, would either of these be desirable?
Thanks

I'm not aware of any BEW's into a non-VW application, so i would stay away from that unless you're feeling adventurous. The ALH is entirely possible and would give you a VNT turbo to play with, not sure if that's a good thing if you are still planning on going to a mechanical pump. You will need to have a tuner remove the immobilizer for the engine to stay running, not really a big deal though. If you can find a complete car i would encourage you to buy it and part out what you don't need. I found that there were a bunch of little things i used along the way that i wouldn't have had if i had just bought the engine and wiring. Search craigslist for something high mileage or accidented, you might find something on copart.com as well.

Luke

LukeWilson said:

As far as i know there are no 2.0 TDI's until '06 when they went to common rail, at least that were originally from north america. The only thing i'm thinking as that he is talking about a gasser engine, there were plenty of those prior to 99.5.

The 1Z and AHU engines were used in Passat's and Jetta's from '96-'97, after that they used the ALH in the Golf's and Jetta's till '04. The pre-99.5 ALH engines were pre-immobilizer i think. In '04 and '05 they used the PD engine and then went to common rail in '06.

Luke

Click to expand...

the 2.0 TDI came in passat b5.5 in NA 2004/2005 my....thats the bottom end I'm running in my tacoma with an ALH head

I really need to study up on what heads and block combos work.
Is $1500 a decent price for the engine and accessories(ecu, harness, pedal)? Not sure if I could afford the whole car at that price, need to save up.
This engine has 150k miles also.

Thanks guys