Possible turbo problems and oil leaks

rdunc

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Location
Logan, UT
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9L BRM; 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Sorry this is so long, but I thought I'd get it all out there. Some of these problems may or may not be related, but since its been one continuous battle with this particular TDI, I wanted to describe the whole story.
I bought a 2006 Jetta 1.9L in August 2013. My wife and I love the car - we put over 20k miles on it in the first 10 months travelling all over the country. I have pampered it as best I know how for a rookie TDI owner - regular oil changes, filters, etc. When I bought it, the seller said in passing that the turbo actuator needed to be replaced within the year (it has a zip-tie mod). I made a mental note, but have put it off for now.
A few months after I bought it, I noticed the engine would occasionally jerk at high speeds (65-80 mph while between 2200-2800 rpm). Over a few more months it gradually grew worse - more frequent and more severe. The tachometer will bounce up and down by about 100 rpm for a second or two and the car shutters a little. This happens with or without cruise on. Then, for a while, it didn't get worse, but didn't go away either.
I changed the DSG fluid in May 2014. That's when I discovered why it had no belly pan - the owner before had hit something and ripped off the lower radiator support and the belly pan must have come with it, and could not be put back on. I should have got a new belly pan at that point, but I put it off a little longer (again, not sure if that's related).
Soon after that in June 2014, I drove it to Wisconsin from Utah. On the way back, we hit a huge rain storm in Iowa. 10 minutes into it, the check engine light and glow plug light came on, and the tach went to 0 - no power. My best guess was that water got in somewhere it shouldn't. Maybe some exposed wiring? A nearby mechanic looked at it and couldn't find anything wrong - no water anywhere, but it wouldn't start. There were no error codes either (weird). We towed it to the dealer in Cedar Rapids (against my better judgement, but we had no choice) and they looked at it. They replaced the engine speed sensor and it started running, but only after 2 mins of it turning over, and the tach was still at 0. They said I needed a new engine because the crank was probably walking but they couldn't tell for sure. They said various things could cause crank walk - low oil, bad bearings, no belly pan, or it could also be the EGR delete (modified by the previous owner). They said I could drive it home, but it would die again after an hour of driving. Well, I wanted a second opinion.
I managed to get it home to Utah and took it to a trusted local VW/Audi mechanic. They couldn't find anything wrong with it! They drove it almost 100 miles and it ran great. So, I took it home. It has ran as usual ever since. Maybe it was caused by the water, and it eventually dried out? But, the shuttering still happens at high speeds (maybe not related to the water because it happened before). Also, around the same time a new noise appeared. Often, while accelerating quickly between 2nd to 3rd or even 3rd to 4th, it would make a scratching, barking sound (almost like a maraca or a cup of ice water shaking) and I'd get more boost at about 1800 or 2100 rpm.
From what I could tell online, I figured the clutch was slipping, or something was up with the turbo actuator (or both).
I ended up moving across the state to go to school in August 2014, so I found another VW/Audi mechanic. I asked him to take a look at the clutch. He came back and said I need a new transmission! They had drained the fluid and it was jet black (remember, I just changed the DSG fluid about 3 months and 5k miles earlier). The clutch and flywheel also looked pretty bad. So, for a hefty sum I got a new DSG tranny, clutch, and flywheel.
It definitely rides like a dream. Its smoother and quieter. But, the same symptoms appear: at high speeds it shutters and at low speeds it barks when accelerating. I took it back to the mechanic and we test drove it together for about an hour. We couldn't get the shuttering to happen again (go figure) but they'd look at the barking noise.
The mechanic still could not find any major problems with it. Everything read right, looked right. There was a little carbon build-up but not enough to be of concern. They figured something is starting to get clogged or blocked, but they can't tell what. He said it might be the EGR cooler, but its hard to tell and they didn't want to replace anything unless they knew it was the culprit. He told me to keep driving it and pay attention if it gets worse.
Before winter hit, I put on my winter tires, which are almost new with lots of tread. Suddenly, the scratching sound at low speeds was almost gone. Could it just have been the tires barking? The old ones were getting pretty bald. But, once in a while I'll still hear the sound at low speeds, and it seems to get a lot more boost at 1800 or 2100 rpm.
In February 2015, I found several possible oil leaks. The lower half of the engine is splashed with oil. I replaced the vacuum pump as it was the most obvious. Can't tell where the rest of the oil is coming from, possibly the EGR cooler. I will return it to my trusted VW shop for them to do an ultraviolet test to pinpoint the oil leak. I'm worried its something really serious. Again, not sure if this is related to all the other problems.
So, I came to the experts. Which, if any of these problems are related? Any ideas what it might be? EGR cooler? Turbo actuator? Maybe some water or sand is still left somewhere? I doubt the crank is walking like the dealer said (or if it is, its not causing these problems) and its not the clutch or tranny because they are brand new. I'm thinking that what happened in Iowa was just a coincidence - not related to the symptoms I am investigating. I'd appreciate any help anyone has to offer.
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 2005 BEW Beetle, 2005 Jetta Wagon
Any idea on how the EGR delete was done? Block-off plate or simply unplugged? Probably not unplugged or it would show up as a code in the ECU.
Was any ECU programming done for EGR delete?

Is the intake flap valve still connected? Again, a code would be in ECU memory if it is unplugged and no reprogramming was done.

If I am not mistaken, the intake flap valve will start to shut off fresh air to the intake manifold to favor flow from the EGR valve if EGR gas requests are not met.
It may be the cause of some of the hiccups.

And the BRM's intake flap is notorious for stripping it's plastic gear and that can cause a chatter as it tries to maintain a flap position.
 

rdunc

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Location
Logan, UT
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9L BRM; 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Block off plate. I don't know for sure about any programming, but the guy I bought it from seemed to know what he was doing when it came to TDIs, so I imagine he did so. Not sure about the intake flap valve. I'll have to check. I'll also see what my mechanic says this week when they do their tests. Thanks for the info!
 

rdunc

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Location
Logan, UT
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9L BRM; 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Update: local mechanic replaced the glow plug harness. From what they could tell, most of the oil was coming from there. So, hopefully that is behind me. They looked at the intake valve and could see a small amount of play in it, but not enough to be of concern. They said they could replace it, and it might fix the problems, but they did not want to because they weren't 100% sure. For now, I'll keep waiting and researching to find out more.
 

98VWTDI

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 17, 2015
Location
Superior WI
TDI
98 Jetta
Oil at the glow plug harness? Glow plug harness causing tach to bounce? Those don't sound like they are possible?

BTW I drove through that same rain storm in Iowa in June 2014, I was heading to Colorado from Wisconsin in my 98 Jetta tdi. Just thought that was ironic!

Good luck
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 2005 BEW Beetle, 2005 Jetta Wagon
The BRM Jettas are notorious for trashing the wiring harnesses in the area between the chassis and the engine....right on top of the starter and under the battery tray. Engine vibration is the culprit...especially if you have flywheel deterioration problems. The plastic corrugated sheath on the harness will rub right through the insulation. Wires rubbing against each other will do it, too.

Add water to the equation....
 
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rdunc

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Location
Logan, UT
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9L BRM; 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
I don't think the glow plug harness was causing the tach to bounce, it was just where the oil was leaking from. So, far the oil looks OK.
JETaah, yes, some issue with the wiring was my first guess about the water incident. My engine does seem to vibrate a lot, especially when idling, or moving between gears. What do you think would help that? New engine mounts?
Also, just yesterday, the exhaust error light came on on the dash. I'm going to hook it up to a vagcom when I get a chance to see what the exact code is. According to some other postings, it may point to the intake flap valve, as was mentioned above. From a few youtube videos, the sound of the grinding plastic gear sounds a lot like my hiccups, mine's just more muffled. I'm not able to find a part# for the flap valve. Does anyone have that? And would that be related to the ASV solenoid? My mechanic mentioned that in passing as well; I might replace it too.
p.s. 98VWTDI, yes, that was quite the storm. The only time I've seen that much rain was in a cyclone in northern Australia.
 

JETaah

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
mi 48836
TDI
96 B4V, 2005 BEW Beetle, 2005 Jetta Wagon
THERE IS NO OIL IN THE GLOW PLUG HARNESS! If you are seeing wetness around the driver's side of the harness I would suspect fuel seepage from the tandem pump has made its way to the wiring or that there may have been a sloppy oil change that made it look that way. When you get access to VAGCOM, check group 13 of the engine module for deviation between cylinders. If you see more than +- 1.00mg/str you could have injector trouble or the camshaft might be near the end of its useful life. If they are all fairly close then I would suspect the dual mass flywheel is either locking up internally or one of the masses is off-center. TDI engines vibrate a little more than a gasser normally but, not a whole lot more if everything is as it should be. Motor mounts could be to blame but I seldom find them to be the reason for excessive shake at idle.
 

rdunc

Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Location
Logan, UT
TDI
2006 VW Jetta 1.9L BRM; 2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD
Sorry to be so vague. I didn't mean to imply there was oil IN the harness. To be specific, they replaced the glow plug conduit, which also required them to replace the harness. Its a bracket attached to the block, next to the vacuum pump. I'm not sure what to make of it - there was oil before, and now there's no oil leak. So, problem fixed. I'm no longer concerned about the oil leak. I know now that its not related to the shuttering/tach bounce, which is really what I'm trying to figure out (along with the new exhaust error).


From the vagcom, I got this error code at the time the exhaust error light came on:

1 Fault Found:
005661 - Glowplug for Cylinder 4 (Q13)
P161D - 000 - Open Circuit
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Reset counter: 255
Mileage: 259981 km
Time Indication: 0
Date: 2000.00.00
Time: 22:16:53
Freeze Frame:
RPM: 882 /min
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Load: 0.0 %
Voltage: 12.01 V
Bin. Bits: 00001011
Temperature: 10.8°C
Bin. Bits: 10110000
Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0


Any ideas what this might mean?


As for the deviation, so, are you saying there shouldn't be more than 1.00mg/str between cylinders OR for each cylinder? Here's the avg numbers of what I got from the vagcom: C1: -0.38 C2: 0.12 C3: -0.28 C4: 0.56.


So, they're each between -1 and +1.


I don't see how it could be the DMF because there was no change to the shuttering from before to after I had it replaced.


I'm still inclined to think it is the ASV valve (or some call it the variable intake manifold flap or regulator flap). I finally found it is part#03G128063Q. My next step is to take off the valve to inspect it, and perhaps inspect further for any chaffed or exposed wiring.
 
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