2005.5 New owner questions

So I haven't taken the valve cover off yet to inspect cam wear, I was told timing belt was changed about 40k miles ago. I'm hopeful, but doubtful a cam has been installed. By appearance can I tell a factory from aftermarket?

Is there an inspection window or way to peep in on the clutch for wear and if it was changed to a SMF? I was told it had been replaced in the cars life.

So the car is a BRM 5-speed with 165k miles, it's relatively nice, but has it's small quirks which I'd say is to be expected for a 12 year old car.

Thanks

Another thing, but I don't have Vagcom is the speedometer. Its off by close to 10%

So, I'm just going to update this thread with questions I have about the car, please give suggestions or links. Thanks

The drivers side seatbelt doesn't wind up very well, like I have to help it, it works just not well.

The air vents blow good on drivers and passengers side, the center 2 vents do not blow well. I'll have to check the floor vents.

The a/c isn't cold unless turned all the way down to Lo, is this normal, I'm going to try a cheap charge from walmart and if it works good for a week drain it all and put new fluids in there.

The clutch pedal doesn't disengage till the mid stroke, my old common rail golf disengaged at the bottom. What's your ideas on the issue? I thought since the car was 12 years old I'll drain and flush the clutch with new fluid. What fluids are best?

again,
Thanks for your guidance.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=205-55r16-205-70r16

another question, would these tires work without bottoming and scrubbing if I'm lightly towing. This would give me just over an inch more ground clearance as well, which is nice for where I live. Still has factory steels and 205/55r16 that are in really good shape.

There is a lot going on in here but I will take a crack and some of it.

If there isn't documentation on the timing belt I would assume it hasn't been done and do it.

You won't be able to tell an aftermarket cam from OE while it is in the car. You should be able to tell if the cam lobes are worn and the lifters are getting damaged with the valve cover off.

I don't think there is anyway to really tell on on clutch. If it isn't rattling (DMF failure) or slipping (worn clutch, etc) I wouldn't worry about it until it gives you a reason to. I would change the transmission fluid with that amount of miles.

Some cars have the air diffuser on top of the dash above the vents, if this is open the center vents won't blow much. Also change the cabin air filter.

There are various things about your A/C, make sure when the A/C is on that the radiator fans are both spinning, fairly common failure and will cause the A/C to not perform well. I wouldn't jump immediately to messing with the Freon especially with the DIY stuff. You will end up doing more harm than good most likely.

On the clutch that sounds normal based on how my car is, mid stoke isn't bad just different than your last car. Clutch shares fluid with the brakes I think it is DOT4 LV or something. I would recommend a motive power flusher and flushing the clutch and brakes at the same time.

kdawg89 said:

I would change the transmission fluid with that amount of miles.

Click to expand...

So I read

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/manual-transmission-gear-oil-change-mk5-mk6-tdi/

and thought about buying the royal purple for $20-22 a bottle, but opted for

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/luc-10047-1

It says on the bottle it can be both GL4 and GL5..

This will be my weekend project.. I feel the hardest parts going to be finding some hose...

I've also got the filter kit from IdParts ordered.

http://www.idparts.com/a5-mk6-tdi-filter-pack-p-615.html

I will do this when they come in, and while I have the car lifted I'll install the panzer plate I kept from my mk6 golf.

BTW, can anyone tell me the length and threading for the studs that come in the Diesel Geek kit with the plate. I don't want to put too much money in a skid I've already bought once from them.

Stick with the VW trans fluid. There is a few threads on it within the forum. If memory serves, something about the syncros or something with RP. There has been a thread or two with folks talking about GM's syncro formula. But, the stock stuff is just fine.

tanner said:

https://www.tacomaworld.com/tirecalc?tires=205-55r16-205-70r16

another question, would these tires work without bottoming and scrubbing if I'm lightly towing. This would give me just over an inch more ground clearance as well, which is nice for where I live. Still has factory steels and 205/55r16 that are in really good shape.

Click to expand...

Probably OK Going by the width. But why would you put tires on the car that are the wrong size for it? Tires are the wrong place to gain ground clearance. You will change your cars final drive gear ratio by doing it.

I towed a U-Haul with a piano in it 400 miles over a mountain pass and was probably a little over the towing capacity of the car with stock tires and springs with no issues. The key is to have your load balanced so that you don't exceed the tongues max capacity.

No tires have nothing to do with the towing I'm doing except would I bottom out.

I've towed plenty with the common rail golf. I do think I'll go one size wider and one size taller on next set when these wear.

I used gps to check speedometer which is off by a fair amount, trip however was off by about 1.5-2% over the course of 500 miles.