ALH TDI 1984 Toyota 4x4, Oh Yeah!

Some Updates:

TPS (gas pedal) mounted, i just hacked up the factory vw bracket a little bit, some bolts/spacers from ace and viola..


It sits a little bit further right than the original toyota pedal, but it not enough to bug me



VW raditor mounted, made some small steel brackets on the drivers side, passenger just bolts staight to the core support



Front view, only 2/3 of the core will be open to the wind, is this ok? Someone chime in on this. Plenty of room for an inter cooler too, sweet!



Battery mounted nice and solid with VW bracket, even get to use the vw P/S reservoir, piece o cake!



Dash torn apart, running the engine/ pedal wiring. I'm mounting the ecu in the factory toyota location. The VW fusebox will go behind the glovebox for easy access, as well as relays 109 & 180. Not having A/C really frees up room in that particular area..

I just test fitted my ECU in the same place you are putting yours, just barely fits under that trim piece. Stuck it to the truck with Velcro.
How are you routing the wires to the engine compartment?

Small update

Ecu fitted behind passenger kick panel, all engine wire ran through the dash and into the engine bay, barely had to trim the harness. Keep in mind that i don't have a/c so there's a lot of extra room for everything to fit in here.


VW Clutch and brake switches fitted to Toyota pedal bracket

I've not seen over 101C on VAGCOM with my radiator 2/3 exposed, much like yours will be. I have my eBay intercooler in front of it. I do plan on Dremmeling out some of the remaining grill tabs that are found in all four corners of the stock grill. Perhaps there are other ways to let air flow in while maintaining a clean, stock look.

You replacing the Toyota power steering pump? I ended up doing so. New it's over $350.

Ok cool, i was a little worried about that. I too plan on mounting an ebay intercooler in front of the rad. As for the P/S pump, i will be using all of the VW accessories: P/S pump, Alt, A/C compressor(just as an idler for the belt)

Alright guys, so i've been trying to tackle this speed sensor issue lately.
Here's my rear diff, it's a 4.88 v6 unit from a '94 4runner turning 35" tires soon to be 33".

On top of it you can see a sensor, this was the abs sensor for the 4runner. It is a 2 wire sensor, where the vw was a 3 wire. My understanding is that the speed sensor in the manual tranny of my 2000 NB donor got its reading from the final drive (ring gear). This toyota sensor also gets its reading from the final drive. My question is do any of you think this could be adapted with a dakota digital box, or something similar, to send the correct signal to the vw ecu? Thanks in advance

Check out
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4511615&postcount=128

and

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=358097&page=10

A little update:

Tore apart the VNT 15 the other day, I noticed the compressor wheel had a couple nicks on tips of the blades (should i be worried?). Zero thrust play, and just slight bit of movement when wiggling the end of the shaft up and down (which I am told is normal, correct?). Exhaust vanes move nice and free, so happy times there.

Got the MIL (Check engine) light working using jimbote's technique found here. Thank you jimbote, works like a charm. Glow plug light is just a small red incandescent 12v from radioshack. For anyone else doing this, i used a 10K Ohm resistor and MPS2222A Transistor from Radioshack as well.

New ASV Pistons on their way to me from franko6, balanced with my original rods which turned out to be good and straight. Frank tells me that ALL 8 valves were bent on my head, so i got a gold star Speaking of the head, its at franks shop all re-machined, new valves, guides, seals etc. A nice new stage 2 camshaft up on top, and Frank even did a mild port/polish too.

Picked up a Power Steering High pressure line off an '89 4runner v6, it's the line that runs from the funky ABS pressure box on the passenger frame rail to the High pressure side of the Steering box. Has a banjo fitting on one side, and a taper seat on the other, even has a small rubber flex bit. Just a little bending and should fit nicely in the engine bay.

As for the toyota coolant temp sender, here's my proposal. I noticed there's a tee on the upper coolant line (that would have originally run to the back of the head in the beetle) This tee has a plug in it. I was wondering if i could have a piece of aluminum machined the same size as the plug and drill/tap it for the sensor. I'd like to hear anyone's input on this, of if it has been done before.

TDI fuel filter mounted where the Toyota charcoal canister was, using the VW bracket welded to the charcoal canister bracket.

That's it for now, just saving up funds to pay Frank for the head work and assembly parts.

To do:
Get an ACME adapter
Clutch
Motor mounts
Inter cooler and piping
Drivelines
Exhaust

bms707 said:

As for the toyota coolant temp sender, here's my proposal. I noticed there's a tee on the upper coolant line (that would have originally run to the back of the head in the beetle) This tee has a plug in it. I was wondering if i could have a piece of aluminum machined the same size as the plug and drill/tap it for the sensor. I'd like to hear anyone's input on this, of if it has been done

Click to expand...

I'm not sure why someone hasn't made any of those adapters to sell, I have seen a build where someone did make one. I quickly ohmed out both my toyota and AHU temp sensors and they seemed to have the same values, I'm hoping I can use the VW one since it's already there.

Rockwell said:

I'm not sure why someone hasn't made any of those adapters to sell, I have seen a build where someone did make one. I quickly ohmed out both my toyota and AHU temp sensors and they seemed to have the same values, I'm hoping I can use the VW one since it's already there.

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The beetle i harvested this engine from did not have a coolant temp gauge in the cluster, just an idiot light. The only coolant sensor i have is the 4-pin one on the back of the head for the ecu. What car did your engine come from?

Jetta AHU. I have the 4 pin one also, 2 pins go to the ECU, 2 go to the gauge. I quick check with the meter shows it has the same values but I haven't tried different temps yet.

Oh, ok i didn't know this. I'll have to go do some ohm tests myself, thanks!

Post results!

Will do, I'll post them up after work today.

Rockwell said:

Post results!

Click to expand...

back when I did my swap I considered using the VW sender with the toyota gauge ...I tested each side by side in hot water both hooked to an ohm meter what I found was that the scaling started off very similar but as the temp climbed the vw sender lagged behind the toyota one.... because of this I decided to go with the toyota sender threaded into the coolant outlet at the back of the head.... I was just concerned that the vw sender coupled to the toy gauge would give me a false sense of where the temp actually was.... my dos pesos

jimbote said:

back when I did my swap I considered using the VW sender with the toyota gauge ...I tested each side by side in hot water both hooked to an ohm meter what I found was that the scaling started off very similar but as the temp climbed the vw sender lagged behind the toyota one.... because of this I decided to go with the toyota sender threaded into the coolant outlet at the back of the head.... I was just concerned that the vw sender coupled to the toy gauge would give me a false sense of where the temp actually was.... my dos pesos

Click to expand...

Yup I remember someone had already worked this out, just couldn't remember who. Thanks jimbote!

Here's my injection pump, since having it sitting on the table for the last couple of months i noticed it seeps a bit of fuel out



Here's where I think the leak is coming from:



I'm not sure what this part is, or if your get an o-ring for it in a bosch seal kit. Any help is appreciated

Oh, and here's the new ASV pistons and rods courtesy of franko6

it's probably the pump head oring and not the advance solenoid ....never seen one of those leak as the oring stays pliable...the pump head rings leak frequently ...

Ahh ok, that makes more sense. Where can i get a viton seal kit? I've tried searching around, but none of them specify viton.

re. Viton Pump Head Seal

https://www.greaseworks.com/store/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=474

http://www.dieselgeek.com/Viton_Pump_Head_O_Ring_Seal_Kit_p/pmp-viton.htm

http://www.dieselgeek.com/TDI_Injection_Pump_Seal_Kit_p/pmp-fullkit.htm

http://www.dieselgeek.com/Viton_Pump_Head_O_Ring_Seal_Kit_p/pmp-viton.htm

Thanks for the links cummins, got a viton seal kit on the way.

Got the block back from the machine shop today




Bored 0.5mm over, took a small amount of meat of the deck to clean it up.
Time to start mocking up the motor mounts!

starting to gather parts for my build in a couple of months. Picked up my motor yesterday. Its a 1.9L ALH out of a 99 Beetle. I posted up a a thread, " Newbie TDI Questions ". Didn't get a response. I got the motor, all of the main wiring, intercooler, and ecu. What other parts should I get from the donor car? I've read a couple of threads and found one talking about getting a few parts. Think someone mentioned getting the OBD port, cluster, and gas pedal. What other items should I pull?

bluehawk said:

starting to gather parts for my build in a couple of months. Picked up my motor yesterday. Its a 1.9L ALH out of a 99 Beetle. I posted up a a thread, " Newbie TDI Questions ". Didn't get a response. I got the motor, all of the main wiring, intercooler, and ecu. What other parts should I get from the donor car? I've read a couple of threads and found one talking about getting a few parts. Think someone mentioned getting the OBD port, cluster, and gas pedal. What other items should I pull?

Click to expand...

Yes you should get the OBD (vag-com) port, its under the steering wheel in the dash. Did you get relays 109 and 180 and thier sockets? 109 is the main power for the ecu, and 180 is a special relay for the glow plugs. Are you putting this engine in a toyota? If so, i would suggest getting a larger intercooler and ditching the tiny one in the beetle. The cluster isn't necessary if you send your ECU off to get re-flashed, which you most likely will have to do in order to delete the immobilizer, so that's up to you. I'm personally trying to keep everything stock in my truck so i am using the toyota cluster, but this does mean more wiring. YES get the gas pedal (TPS) these engines are drive-by-wire, otherwise you'll have to go buy a new one and they aren't cheap, don't forget the connecter w/pigtail harness. The only other thing i can think of is the radiator/cooling fans & harness, again this isn't necessary as most people that i've seen do this swap use the factory toyota rad with no problems. That's really all i can think of for now, someone else chime in if I forgot anything. Good luck! Get the MAP sensor it's on the vw intercooler!

bms707 said:

Yes you should get the OBD (vag-com) port, its under the steering wheel in the dash. Did you get relays 109 and 180 and thier sockets? 109 is the main power for the ecu, and 180 is a special relay for the glow plugs. Are you putting this engine in a toyota? If so, i would suggest getting a larger intercooler and ditching the tiny one in the beetle. The cluster isn't necessary if you send your ECU off to get re-flashed, which you most likely will have to do in order to delete the immobilizer, so that's up to you. I'm personally trying to keep everything stock in my truck so i am using the toyota cluster, but this does mean more wiring. YES get the gas pedal (TPS) these engines are drive-by-wire, otherwise you'll have to go buy a new one and they aren't cheap, don't forget the connecter w/pigtail harness. The only other thing i can think of is the radiator/cooling fans & harness, again this isn't necessary as most people that i've seen do this swap use the factory toyota rad with no problems. That's really all i can think of for now, someone else chime in if I forgot anything. Good luck! Get the MAP sensor it's on the vw intercooler!

Click to expand...

Thanks bms707, I will contact the seller that I got my motor from and get the gas pedal and all the wiring. Didn't get the relays that you speak of so I will tell him to mail those also. I've seen three different types of motor mounts used so far for this conversion. Any input on this subject?

bluehawk said:

Thanks bms707, I will contact the seller that I got my motor from and get the gas pedal and all the wiring. Didn't get the relays that you speak of so I will tell him to mail those also. I've seen three different types of motor mounts used so far for this conversion. Any input on this subject?

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Motor mounts are something i am about to embark on, i've been told mercedes 300d liquid mounts are the ones to have since they reduce idle vibrations. I think i will be copying the style of brackets from this thread, courtesy of cumminsfromthecold.

bms707 said:

Motor mounts are something i am about to embark on, i've been told mercedes 300d liquid mounts are the ones to have since they reduce idle vibrations. I think i will be copying the style of brackets from this thread, courtesy of cumminsfromthecold.

Click to expand...

I've been reading so many threads on here it is hard to keep up with all of them. There is a guy on here that made his motor mounts with the Mercedes mounts. Wanting to say his name is Jaysin, but not sure. Wonder if he could make a set and sell them to individuals? Would save time and money in the long run for me.

Found the thread that I was reading about the Mercedes mounts. They were done by JaysinSpaceman. This guy has some mad skills and fab work. Just wondering if this conversion can be done on my 92 Truck with the IFS. No one has mentioned if a lift is need to do this or not. Everyone that I've read is an older model truck with a solid axle already. Any input?

After 8 months, I can confirm this can be done to an ifs rig without a body lift. The drivetrain has to be moved forward and clearance is tight, but it'll fit.

ronnierider said:

After 8 months, I can confirm this can be done to an ifs rig without a body lift. The drivetrain has to be moved forward and clearance is tight, but it'll fit.

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Is there a way to do it with out moving the drivetrain forward? I don't want to have to move the transmission mounts forward, lengthen the rear driveshaft and extend brake and fuel hoses. On the ALH motor, I'm not finding a place to put the motor mounts. Any suggestions? Sorry for the highjack of your thread bms707.

bluehawk said:

Is there a way to do it with out moving the drivetrain forward? I don't want to have to move the transmission mounts forward, lengthen the rear driveshaft and extend brake and fuel hoses. On the ALH motor, I'm not finding a place to put the motor mounts. Any suggestions? Sorry for the highjack of your thread bms707.

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No worries. The only way i know you can get away without moving the drive train forward is taking a hammer to your firewall The vacuum pump and water outlet on back of the cylinder head is a tight fit in toyotas. As for the mounts on the block, the passenger side will be towards the front(just in front of the turbo). The drivers side is the tricky one, as it's wedged between the oil dipstick and the big aluminum accessory bracket. I'll post pics here shortly showing the exact bosses i plan to use on the block.