'02 ALH Build Questions

Finally getting started on building up my ALH and I've got everything picked out (on my best research) and some things already purchased. I can't help but feel like I'd be overpaying for everything I want done to the car, so if anyone can offer their input, recommendation, or services, then I'd be more than happy to hear them out. I'm ready to pull the trigger on all of this, I just wanna make sure I get the best deal!

So far, my mechanic quoted me for parts and installation for the following:

SBC Stage 3 Endurance (purchased) - $600 installed
GTD1752VRK (purchased) - Buddy of mine is converting it
DLC 1019 Stage 3 flow (purchased and installed)
Malone Stage 3 tune (purchased and installed)
Intake is up in the air depending on what we can make work with the turbo
Custom FMIC - ~$1000 (price overshot to be safe)
Custom downpipe - $2-300 estimated
Buzzken 3" cat back - Can't recall the quote
AEM Boost and EGT gauge (purchased) - $250 installed
Colt Cam Stage 3 - $420, didn't get the labor cost
Timing belt (complete kit) - $1000 installed
Type R axles - $7-800, didn't get the labor cost (axles have lifetime warranty, but I'm more than willing to hear opinions if these are worth it or not)
INA Lifters - $80, Kerma pricing
ARP Headstuds - $190, Kerma pricing
4 Bar MAP - ~$55, Darkside pricing
5th gear swap - ~$300, didn't get the labor cost

Do you have a LSD installed? If not I would highly recommend you look at the wavetrac. With all that power you will want to get it to the ground.

h4vok said:

Do you have a LSD installed? If not I would highly recommend you look at the wavetrac. With all that power you will want to get it to the ground.

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With the three big LSDs in mind, I gotta ask, I've done tons of research on them, but nobodies given a straight answer as to whether or not spending more is worth it. Your thoughts?

No nozzel ? Bosio race520 good nozzle for you turbo
Upgrade pump 11mm

mk1-83 said:

No nozzel ? Bosio race520 good nozzle for you turbo
Upgrade pump 11mm

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My bad, I didn't include them in the list because they were in my sig. I have DLC 1019's, an 11mm pump, and a Malone stage 3 tune.

don't bother with axles until they're making noise, you may well get a lot more miles out of them
still running a stock mk4 right outer, and much weaker looking tripod inners on mine with no troubles, and that's got enough clutch to put you through the windshield if you grab second trying for fourth

[486] said:

don't bother with axles until they're making noise, you may well get a lot more miles out of them
still running a stock mk4 right outer, and much weaker looking tripod inners on mine with no troubles, and that's got enough clutch to put you through the windshield if you grab second trying for fourth

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Thanks for that! Puts one of my worries to rest.
Say mine do snap down the road, should I consider VR6 axles instead or grab some more TDI ones? I've heard people say that the VR6 axles arent as strong as the TDI ones, but I know others hold them in high regard.

bigkahuna360 said:

With the three big LSDs in mind, I gotta ask, I've done tons of research on them, but nobodies given a straight answer as to whether or not spending more is worth it. Your thoughts?

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From what I know the wavetrac is the most aggressive LSD and should provide the best traction. I have driven curiouschris's tdi with one and it is really nice if you ask me. It will hook up better since it will spin both front tires and not just the one with the least traction. The wavetrac is the same price as the other two as far as I know. I will be putting one in my car when I can afford it.

Your 1019s and 11mm pump will be a nice combo with most turbos.

h4vok said:

From what I know the wavetrac is the most aggressive LSD and should provide the best traction. I have driven curiouschris's tdi with one and it is really nice if you ask me. It will hook up better since it will spin both front tires and not just the one with the least traction. The wavetrac is the same price as the other two as far as I know. I will be putting one in my car when I can afford it.

Your 1019s and 11mm pump will be a nice combo with most turbos.

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Have you had the chance to try out Peloquin?

You didn't specify what injectors you will use, but I'd much sooner put the $420 for the cam toward an 11mm pump (sell your 10mm to make up the difference). Then add Race 520s or similar and you're pretty much guaranteed 200 hp based on your list.

Axles are also a waste - OEM ones take a lot of abuse before they become a weak point. Better to put that into an LSD and suspension/bushings to reduce wheelhop - that's what kills axles, upgraded or not.

TDIMeister said:

You didn't specify what injectors you will use, but I'd much sooner put the $420 for the cam toward an 11mm pump (sell your 10mm to make up the difference). Then add Race 520s or similar and you're pretty much guaranteed 200 hp based on your list.

Axles are also a waste - OEM ones take a lot of abuse before they become a weak point. Better to put that into an LSD and suspension/bushings to reduce wheelhop - that's what kills axles, upgraded or not.

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He has DLC1019 and 11mm pump so he should be good for like 180hp. He should probably add a lift pump though.

bigkahuna360 said:

Have you had the chance to try out Peloquin?

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I have not used a peloquin or quafe unfortunately.

h4vok said:

He has DLC1019 and 11mm pump so he should be good for like 180hp. He should probably add a lift pump though.

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Well that's good. Still more bang for the buck to go with DLC Race 520s (used 1019s in good condition will still fetch decent coin) over a cam any day.

And like several have already echoed and I reiterate because it's important, ditch the aftermarket axles for an LSD.

Great choice of turbo though - Imo the best for your targeted state of tune. If your tuner is smart enough to utilize the electronic actuator instead of converting to vacuum, so much the better.

I have my 1019's setup for stage 3 flow by DBW so they should be good for what I'm aiming for. This car doubles as my daily so I can't *completely* make a racecar out of it.

Is the lift pump from a PD or a later model? I didn't think that would benefit me much until I started going past 230hp or so.

As for the turbo, if I had known that it were possible/better to keep it electronic, I would have, but this one was already set up for vacuum.

I did some reading up on the LSDs and came across a bit of info that worried me, supposedly the wavetrac detonates of you have gear failure where the Peloquin won't?

I'll update the main post.

bigkahuna360 said:

I have my 1019's setup for stage 3 flow by DBW so they should be good for what I'm aiming for. This car doubles as my daily so I can't *completely* make a racecar out of it.

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I'm DDing some DSSr .360s, they burn clean above 900 RPM, some white smoke below that when lugging from a stop

[486] said:

I'm DDing some DSSr .360s, they burn clean above 900 RPM, some white smoke below that when lugging from a stop

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I can't imagine those get as good mileage with light driving though?

One thing I would be concerned about with the mods you list are the connecting rods. I'm doing a similar build on a 2001 Golf. I purposely tried to keep the power to a reasonable level so I wouldn't have to change the rods - although maybe later I will.

For a LSD, I went with the Peloquin. I really haven't driven it enough to give an opinion, but I can say it does work. I like the Peloquin as it's made in a small shop. It's a very high quality piece. Really, I think you would be fine with any of the Torsen type differentials.

If you are thinking of going with a LSD, 5th gear change, etc. I would consider going to an OM1 6 speed. After driving both, I much prefer the 6 speed. It's stronger to begin with and has a bigger clutch and axles. Plus you get about the same first 5 ratios with a nice cruising ratio.

Finally, I would hold some money back for suspension mods as well. With all that power you will want to be able to use it!

bobbiemartin said:

One thing I would be concerned about with the mods you list are the connecting rods. I'm doing a similar build on a 2001 Golf. I purposely tried to keep the power to a reasonable level so I wouldn't have to change the rods - although maybe later I will.

For a LSD, I went with the Peloquin. I really haven't driven it enough to give an opinion, but I can say it does work. I like the Peloquin as it's made in a small shop. It's a very high quality piece. Really, I think you would be fine with any of the Torsen type differentials.

If you are thinking of going with a LSD, 5th gear change, etc. I would consider going to an OM1 6 speed. After driving both, I much prefer the 6 speed. It's stronger to begin with and has a bigger clutch and axles. Plus you get about the same first 5 ratios with a nice cruising ratio.

Finally, I would hold some money back for suspension mods as well. With all that power you will want to be able to use it!

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I didn't get to talk much with my mechanic on whether or not pistons would/should be replaced at this point. (They'll be taking out the engine anyway) I also don't know what rebuilding an engine entails as far as costs.

I'll probably go with the Peloquin just to be safe.

A 6 speed was the original plan (at least the eurotuning kit was), but that was back when I was able to drive 45 minutes to work at night. Now my job is mostly city and only 20 minutes away so the 6 speed doesnt really do me any good.

I rebuilt the suspension mid last year with the MK4 kit from fixmyvw. (they dont offer it anymore sadly) and havent been able to drive the car since February (oil leak caused blown turbo which conveniently allowed me to do all of this hehe) so the suspension is pretty much brand new. If it turns out I need to redo the suspension, I'll have to do it later down the road (hopefully not literally!) or the wife might kill me.

bigkahuna360 said:

I can't imagine those get as good mileage with light driving though?

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Still gets 48 mpg, same as before

[486] said:

Still gets 48 mpg, same as before

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I'm surprised, thanks for sharing!

If you want to save some money, i think 12.9 head bolt will be enough, Nps sell a kit for tdi VE and its much cheaper than the Arp one : https://npsheads.omaverkkokauppa.fi...h=/Shops/20120717-11092-127319-1/Products/181

he sell good camshaft too, there also dbilas as a choice with aint expensive

Maybe also instead of changing rods, you could look to reduce the CR of your pistons, look like most of the guys runing big power VE did that and it last even without forged rods.

When you start talking about messing with compression ratios, then you're leagues above where I am able to understand. I thought having a higher CR was a key factor to our TDI's economy?