AHU Ranger

I have a 99 Ranger and an AHU engine, so a swap is in the works. The question I have is how much do I need to mod the engine to match or better the performance of the 4.0L OHV that is in the truck now. I am not looking for high performance, just a good DD that can haul some stuff.

I am thinking a tune + nozzles as a starting point, but how much farther do I go? Should I budget for an FMIC, turbo, 11mm pump.......

Any suggestions appreciated.

Paul

If it were me.....

ebay fmic
1756vk mounted on a passat manifold with ryanp's adapter plate. Also gets the turbo nice and high away from starter and other such things.
VNT tune from Malone or TD tuning
11mm alh pump swap
pp764s

Would spool great, have low egts, and 170-180whp and 325+wtq.

Sounds like fun

What Matt said but I'm finding the Passat will rotate the turbo up and out of the way too much so it will have clearance issues with the heater box. I need a Passat manifold to check fitment with my 2056vk. I may need to make my own adapter that will rotate the turbo downward to improve clearance to the box. OR if somebody knows of a manifold that has an outlet further forward instead of between 2&3 exhaust ports then there is tons of room.

Thanks for the ideas. It is probably a bit more than I had planned on, but it may be fun to try for it. At the outset, my idea was about 170 bhp and >250 tq.

I have been looking around and found this: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=360678.

That looks like the approach I would like to take unless there are reasons not to go that route. My thoughts run along the lines of using AAZ manifolds, since I have them.



Am I being silly here, or does this seem workable?

Paul

The first guy that has a nice adapter plate for the bellhouse for this project please let me know. I'd love to repower my dad's old '84 Ranger... and it is the perfect [for me] candidate, as it has no A/C, no P/S, and has the HD suspension that you couldn't get on the later trucks and a stake bed.

I had the same issues with turbo fitment. I wasn't using a stock VNT, and side mount hit the A-arm mounting. I found The high mount TD manifolds gave lots of room beside the block and kept the packaging quite tidy.

Unfortunatly I am a bit of a gluton for punishment and wanted to keep my long runner intake. I opted to make a tri-Y header to move the turbo forward to be even with cyl one. It was more work for sure but it will flow better and let me upgrade turbo's later without fitment problems.
Have a look if you are interested: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=369730&page=3

Manifold pics in post 35.


Ryan

Alchemist said:

Thanks for the ideas. It is probably a bit more than I had planned on, but it may be fun to try for it. At the outset, my idea was about 170 bhp and >250 tq.

I have been looking around and found this: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=360678.

That looks like the approach I would like to take unless there are reasons not to go that route. My thoughts run along the lines of using AAZ manifolds, since I have them.



Am I being silly here, or does this seem workable?

Paul

Click to expand...

The gt2052 is fine for a light street car, but if you want low rpm torque in a heavy truck, it's not the best option. Look at the two dyno graphs

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3762891&postcount=1

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=4002390&postcount=113

250lbft at 2600rpm on the gt2052 vs at 2000rpm on the 1756vk.


If you have an AAZ manifold, just make an adapter plate and bolt on the 1756vk. Easy as pie .

Whitbread said:

If it were me.....

ebay fmic
1756vk mounted on a passat manifold with ryanp's adapter plate. Also gets the turbo nice and high away from starter and other such things.
VNT tune from Malone or TD tuning
11mm alh pump swap
pp764s

Would spool great, have low egts, and 170-180whp and 325+wtq.

Click to expand...

I have everything listed but the 1756vk. Would you need to do head studs and other supporting mods to keep up with the turbo?

Bczuk said:

I have everything listed but the 1756vk. Would you need to do head studs and other supporting mods to keep up with the turbo?

Click to expand...

If you run 11mm pump/r520nozzles and over 30 psi I would (turbo is good to about 32psi or so, you'll need a 4 bar map sensor for anything over 27psi), but with the pp764's and 27-28 psi you'd be fine. ARP studs are cheap insurance though, i put them in everything just to be safe. What other supporting mods are you asking about?

I was wondering about the supporting mods too. Things such as rods, block girdle, double valve springs etc. The studs sound like a good idea, and a new head gasket is probably in order. My preference is to avoid extensive mods and just make something that will liven the truck up a bit.

I have been looking for the 1756, but very few seem to advertise it. Is Darkside the only vendor that has them, or do some on this continent also sell them?

Paul

Alchemist said:

I was wondering about the supporting mods too. Things such as rods, block girdle, double valve springs etc. The studs sound like a good idea, and a new head gasket is probably in order. My preference is to avoid extensive mods and just make something that will liven the truck up a bit.

I have been looking for the 1756, but very few seem to advertise it. Is Darkside the only vendor that has them, or do some on this continent also sell them?

Paul

Click to expand...

Rods, girdle, etc aren't needed with only a 1756vk. I'd do studs and a stage 2 cam at absolute most if budget permits. Valve springs are kinda pointless if you don't port the head as the you won't make a ton of power over 5K regardless of turbo as the head chokes. With a good cam, port job, and springs, it'll pull to 6K happily and make really good power up there.

As I said earlier, an 11mm pump, pp764 or race520's, 3 bar map, 1756vk, decent ebay intercooler, and a lift pump of some sort will be an absolute riot with a good tune. If you wanted to hit 200whp, just run a 4 bar map and the race520s with above. Just hope the rest of your drivetrain can take ~350ft/lbs. That's as far as I'd feel safe taking a stock long block with studs.

Pretty much answered everything for me. Thanks Whitbread :beer:

Bczuk said:

Pretty much answered everything for me. Thanks Whitbread :beer:

Click to expand...

No prob at all! The driving difference between a stock turbo'ed motor with a tune and the recipie i gave is crazy. For the extra couple dollars, if you're starting with a blank canvas, why the heck not have some fun? Mpg is dictated by your right foot so you're not going to loose anything adding some zing. Once you get everything sorted out and enjoy it for a few months/a year, toss in some r520s and a 4 bar map for a 32-33psi tune. That'll be another 20 easy hp/ 40 lbft.