yeah, he told me he had it on a 1998 jetta ahu, which is the same engine im going to be using, somebody else on this forum sells them, here in the states, but they run about 1500, but the beauty part of them is you dont have to build a pump from two different ones
sure hope so, just hope what im paying for it is a decent pricex2
Looks like you found what you're looking for, too.
You don't have to be a ball bag about being wrong. However I do accept your apology, thank-you.
It is going to be wheeler, a bog machine, a rock crawler what ever you want to call it. Does he need top end? No.
. Is it the best setup? No. Will it run? Yes.
Thanks for stating the already stated
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happy to oblige and follow suitThanks for stating the already stated
Everyone,You don't have to be a ball bag about being wrong. However I do accept your apology, thank-you.
I did nothing of contradiction, running perfectly and making power are not the same thing.
"I'm sure you could get the engine to idle using a 1.9TD (AAZ) pump, but actually drive it? I doubt it."
That was your own wording, which I disagree with and think is a false statement. Have you put a IDI pump on a TDI engine? If not, don't talk. I have done it, I have driven one that I even towed with, A little far from just idling.
The reason to even consider a sacrifice and run TDI with an IDI would still be a much more stable engine than the 1.6 and 1.9 IDI.
"People going this route shouldn't expect full performance from an IDI pump on a DI engine."
Much better wording Chief
Dear Jeremy:
i know i know, but still, like i stated before, i only want simplicity, i could care less about gobs of torque, hp, and efficiency, im regearing the transfercase lower anyways, so torque doesnt bother me a bit
oh no, im not touching prothes junk
im gonna run a 2.8 lt pump, that is if i buy it from xriss, i posted a pic of it several posts ago
okay, so can i take off the tdi pump, pull the pulley off the pump, put the pulley on the 2.8 pump, and put the 2.8 pump on my engine, connect lines, time it, and call it good?
no idea if it does or not, but ill use the bracket,EDIT!
I cannot see from this post/picture.. but does the pump have slotted mounting holes??
Judging by that rear bracket you will also need to use the AHU rear pump bracket as well, again no big deal.. it bolts on.
i read on another forum, some guy pulled this one, and a 4 bt pump apart, really the only difference in them was the snout length, other than that, they were darn near identical, now, does anybody know anything about timing the injection pump?Sweet, that's probably on par with a Land Rover pump setup.
OP, You're good to go
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no idea, one of my friends here in town has the same pump im looking at buying from xriss, so maybe ill buy both?!!!!! just an idea, anyways, he seems to know a lot about them, he has two tdis right now, a 1.6td, and a couple n/as, also, one of my high school buddies is a diesel tech, ill ask him for help prollyYessir I do, same have said I am an M-TDI Master and that the diesel gods have blessed me with this knowledge from birth.. Crazy though eh? lol
The pulley needs to be like one or two notches clockwise. Apparently the Rover shaft/key was 11* off from the AHU one. I am not sure if it is the same for the LT pump.
As can be seen the center of the pump in the one whole does NOT line up with the pulley's dent for TDC. I measured it to this spot by using the dial gauge in the end and turning the pump to where I was on the flat of the cam-plate. The pump lock does not fit for timing purposes anymore. For physical timing purposes, is it an 11mm or 12mm pump head? That is what ultimately determines the static timing setting. I would start at 1.25mm if it is an 11mm head. I am unsure of a starting point for 12mm as I have no experience, yet
