Timing belt reinstall

I recently acquired a new-to-me injection pump, and had DFIS overhaul it. Good thing to, guess someone was monkeying round in there and installed the relief valve backwards somehow.
Now I know there's a matter of opinions when it comes to reinstalling timing belts, some say change the tensioner, some say inspect it, if it looks OK reuse. Long story short, I have maybe 6k miles on my timing belt. Had it off once when I replaced my camshaft. So there's one reinstall already. Since then I've installed a lot of go-fast parts. No issues with the belt so far. When I go to replace my IP should I just reuse all hardware, or get a new tensioner at least?

I did exactly that several years ago. Re-used tensioner with no issues. I have since read posts from 2 actual mechanics who say it's one time use. So if I did it today I would replace it.

Meh I guess the tensioner isn't that expensive. I'll just change it for cheap insurance. Not wanting to build one of my spare engines just yet.
I've also hear some vendors, like IDparts, suggest to replace the cam sprocket after 300k. I've also heard some say to just over torque the sprocket by 2lbs to prevent slippage. Opinions?

328k on the original sprocket and it's been off a few times

I've had my tensioner off 4 or 5 times and no issues.

I also have reused my crank bolt twice... first time was to replace a bad crank seal, then installed what AutoZone said was the right seal and it was a cam seal, then just went through worldpac and got the right seal and all is good

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I see no reason why you would need to replace tour tensioner unless it had over 100K. Back in the day I use to snag timing belt tensioners from the salvage yards for mk1 8V applications. Aftermarket tensioners required a special spanner wrench to install, but the factory ones just used a 17mm nut if I remember. The point is, I've never seen a tensioner fail unless it was high mileage or poor quality. Regardless of how many times it's been on or off. Within reason of course.

Well the tensioner I have on my car is from Halsey Imports. While they are huge into VWs, it's mostly on old school beetles and vans. Don't remember the brand of tensioner they sold me, but it didn't look like any name brand parts store part. May be OEM. Guess I'll inspect it and use my best judgment.

It's up to you, I personally would replace it for cheap insurance. (Tensioner)
I believe the issue with the cam drive sprocket is fatigue fracturing- if so, extra torque is not a solution. Is yours fractured? Maybe, maybe not. Is yours sporting a sub-surface fatigue fracture that can propagate in the future? Maybe, maybe not. Metal fatigues- heck, everything does. Will your sprocket survive 1,000,000 miles with no issues? Maybe it will, but not likely. It's a hard call, but ultimately it's in your hands- all you can do is arm yourself with the knowledge of the risks, of the known issue, of the cost-benefit either way, then make a well-educated judgement call.
If it were mine? I would thoroughly scrutinize it- I may even spray it with some crack-detecting fluid and decide from there. If it looked great, I'd run it.

I’ve reused my tensioner if it’s below the 100k change.
As far as the torque on the cam gear I use 40 ft pound as recommended by franko6.
I’ve done several TB’s and never had an issue. Just my .02

What's harder on the tensioner, running for thousands of miles at its normal setting absorbing fluction in the belt or having the tension applied a few extra times.

I'd reuse it if it were recognizable brand.

Nero Morg said:

Well the tensioner I have on my car is from Halsey Imports. While they are huge into VWs, it's mostly on old school beetles and vans. Don't remember the brand of tensioner they sold me, but it didn't look like any name brand parts store part. May be OEM. Guess I'll inspect it and use my best judgment.

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I have a new one in the trunk of my car if you really want one. Came with the car when I got it lol. Along with like 8 sets of lug bolts!

Ha your car was full of surprises. I'll reach out to you if I decide not to reuse mine. I'd like to see what brand it is first because I can't remember.

My 16 y/o, having seen the great fuel economy and durability of my ‘01 Jetta has purchased her first car with all her own $$$. She got an ‘03 Beetle with an ALH also. It was purchased as a non-runner due to massive fuel pump leaks. I went to DieselGeek and got the parts to do the repair. Began tear down today and as i rotated the engine, the timing gear jumped on tooth on the belt. Immediately stopped. Is the engine an interference engine? I have no idea if the fuel leaks were the only issues. Somebody had been in there already as I found transmission fluid residue in the pump. I’m thinking the DieselGeek timing belt kit is gonna get ordered in the next few minutes, but I need to know about cam timing marks and the valve interference before I make any assumptions on engine condition.

A new post might be in order.
But yes, HIGHLY interference. 1 tooth may not hurt, get the valve cover off and scrutinize your lifters. If all looks good, get that TB changed!

Tankthecarman said:

Immediately stopped. Is the engine an interference engine?

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Absolutely. It's a frequent topic of discussion. Slipped belt leads to bent rods and damaged valves. Good thing you saw it.

How were you rotating the engine? By the cam or pump center bolt?

This is why you always use the crank bolt.

KLXD, I was rotating it by the cam bolt. I realized immediately that I had made a poor choice! Huddling up and working out a new plan.

As a followup, tensioner was a litens, says made in Canada. Feels fine, but I already have it off so going to change it.

KLXD, yes I was rotating it by the cam pulley. I have made a TB tensioning tool, have the DieselGeek TB kit in my possession and Am about to begin the job. Hopefully I’ll complete it tomorrow. I had a bit of trouble with finding coolant. Pentosin is the recommended, but it’s soeci order only . I found Zerex G05 claims to be the correct fluid, but it’s yellow and the Pentosin that I special Ordered about 2 years ago for my Jetta TDI is Orange. I do realize color isn’t anything but an identifier, but the Zerex G40 Is supposed to be for 04 & up TDI . I just don’t want to install the wrong stuff & have galvanic corrosion eat my engines from the inside out. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Tank

Any thoughts?
First question is what color is your current coolant? Orange? "Pentosin" what flavor?
How's it holding up? If it's good, replace with the same thing I guess,
but I don't think orange was used in any MK4
Mine came with the pink g12. I've used Pentofrost SF (also pink) when I couldn't grab VW g12 quick enough, but they are the same thing basically.

Best of luck on your TB! Hopefully you've read this a few times:
http://pics.tdiclub.com/pdf/a4timingbelt.pdf
...and watched videos and read a bunch of threads on the topic!

Tankthecarman said:

KLXD, yes I was rotating it by the cam pulley. I have made a TB tensioning tool, have the DieselGeek TB kit in my possession and Am about to begin the job. Hopefully I’ll complete it tomorrow. I had a bit of trouble with finding coolant. Pentosin is the recommended, but it’s soeci order only . I found Zerex G05 claims to be the correct fluid, but it’s yellow and the Pentosin that I special Ordered about 2 years ago for my Jetta TDI is Orange. I do realize color isn’t anything but an identifier, but the Zerex G40 Is supposed to be for 04 & up TDI . I just don’t want to install the wrong stuff & have galvanic corrosion eat my engines from the inside out. Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Tank

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G12 Antifreeze may be hard to find now, they have been switching everything to a G13 which has a glycerine base and is less toxic, I have had trouble in the past from not using the specified coolant. Check around and ask for the Pentofrost E / G13 with a purple/lilac cap, some parts stores keep it in the back because it doesn't sell very fast and it is expensive compared to the brands that they push.