A cautionary tale on WVO & Engine Oil

Knuckledragger

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Location
Green Bay, WI
TDI
2003 Jetta
What follows is a tale of woe about what went wrong with the engine. The reasons are close to the bottom. Suffice to say, that frequent motor oil changes are mandatory when burning WVO / SVO!

Over the last week, I replaced the stock turbo on my ’03 Jetta with a VNT-17 from KermaTDI. This was because of increased oil consumption w/o any external leakage or loss of compression. The I/C was also filling up with motor oil much more frequently than before. This led me to believe that the turbo oil seals were going.

More importantly, I pulled the head and thoroughly *cleaned*it*out! I had used a borescope a few weeks ago to look into the intake passages of the head (not just the intake manifold!) and found them heavily caked with soot/oil/tar. When I pulled the head, I was amazed to see just how much junk had built up in there. The valve stems and intake passage walls were so thickly gooped up that the engine was probably only getting ~25% of maximum air flow, even at full boost and full throttle.


Pulling, disassembling, cleaning, and restoring the head was no small task… I don’t recommend it if you have something else to do with your life.

Initially, the deposits were like a thick tar. Very tenacious and difficult to remove. They also didn’t come off cleanly. But I used a lot of mineral spirits to pre-soak the deposits and this removed the oil component. The remaining carbon deposits became “crispy” and very easy to chip off.

The running surfaces of the engine that I could inspect (cylinder walls, cam shaft lobes, hydraulic lifter bores, skirts, & top surfaces, valves & valve seats) were all in very good condition. No excessive wear, no scoring, and all well within specs. Compression had always been very good, so I didn’t expect any problems there.

The tops of the pistons were relatively clean. No burning, FOD, etc. Just a thin layer of very tenacious carbon that I decided to just leave alone rather than risk damaging the pistons or cylinder bores while trying to remove it.

The performance of the car had suffered for a good ~30,000 miles, and I had been down many paths to restore the performance. Some successful, others not so much. Here's a list of *all* the work done in the last year and the results of each:

1. Heavy smoking under load. Replaced the injector nozzles with Sprint 520s. No real improvement.

2. Replaced the MAF sensor & air filter. No improvement.

3. Bad fuel pump (clicking and then finally CELs and a dead engine). Replaced it, no big problems but no improvement either.

4. Took it to Jason in Madison. He removed the snow screen (it was clogged and I didn't know it existed). Also tweaked the fuel injection timing and used a can of diesel purge to improve performance some. Turbo surge was cured (probably because of the clogged snow screen). Some short term reduction in smoking, but it returned within ~200 miles.

5. Got rebuilt injectors (again, KermaTDI) that greatly reduced the smoking problems, but still had very poor performance.

6. Sent a VAG-COM trace to Paul at Kerma. He diagnosed a bad MAF. Replaced it. No improvement.

At this point, the MAF trace was showing that the air flow would increase to a maximum of about 25-30% of demand, and then flat-line. The symptoms certainly looked like a bad MAF sensor, but in fact, the engine intake was choked off by the restricted passages.

7. Replaced turbo & cleaned out head. Now it runs like new again! Plenty of response, torque, and horsepower. I cannot wait until spring when I have good long stretches of ice free roads to try it on!


Why all the problems? I should have known better. I've been running the car filtered, de-watered waste vegetable oil for the last ~70,000 miles. The WVO itself wasn't the problem, but rather the way that I've been using it has.

I have recently learned that with WVO, it doesn't matter how much money you spend on fancy motor oils, you still cannot run them 10,000 miles like I was doing. From now on, only cheap oil changed every 3K miles.

Of course, with the price of diesel now more reasonable, I may forego WVO all together. It has been a lot of fun and a great learning experience, but with all the parts replacements, I haven't saved a dime.

Many thanks to Paul at KermaTDI and Jason of JasonTDI in Madison, WI. These two gentlemen have been extremely helpful and supportive. I recommend them highly!




2003 Jetta TDI, mostly stock. 130,000 miles. VNT-17 turbo, Sprint 520 nozzles. Running WVO since ~60,000 miles.
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
Thank you for your candid and honest appraisal of your situation.
 

jasonTDI

TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Apr 26, 2001
Location
Oregon, WI
TDI
20' RAM 3500 CCLB dually HO/Aisan. 2019 Cherokee 2.0T
Thanks for the follow up.

What you found in the head clearly was not evident from looking into the intake manifold.

Glad you got it sorted out finally.
 

DarrenUK

Veteran Member
Joined
May 23, 2003
Location
SE England
TDI
Skoda Octavia 1999
Knuckledragger,

Thanks for the report.

I guess an EGR delete or reducing EGR levels would help to avoid / reduce the formation of such deposits.

Have you been doing much city driving or mostly highway?

Best

Darren
 

oldpoopie

Vendor
Joined
May 14, 2001
Location
Portland Oregon
TDI
2001 golf gl, 2006 jetta, 1981 ALH swapped rabbit pickup, 1998 beetle
Was there a cating of tar like stuff under the valve cover too? I've seen WVO cars with a goo like substance covering every internal engine component.
 

hevster1

Vendor
Joined
Nov 14, 2005
Location
Columbia NJ
TDI
98 NB
Of course, with the price of diesel now more reasonable, I may forego WVO all together. It has been a lot of fun and a great learning experience, but with all the parts replacements, I haven't saved a dime.
The 2 sentences say it all. If an engine replacement was involved it would have been worse.
 

velociT

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 10, 2006
Location
Not Austin, TX
TDI
06 Jetta TDI *sold*
10k intervals probably led to most of the problem...

You said it. With #2 as cheap as it is, it's just easier to run the vehicle on the intended fuel.
 

vwcampin

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Location
Omaha
TDI
2002 GLS TDI Auto
Thanks for the report. I would recommend not going cheap on your oil even if you are changing the oil more frequently.

As Darren asked, what is your driving routine?

Personally I have reduced my EGR via Vagcom, as well as lowering my IQ since I have upgraded nozzles. No smoke at all under normal driving conditions.

What kit do you have?
 

UFO

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Location
A mile high
TDI
2001 Beetle
velociT said:
10k intervals probably led to most of the problem...

You said it. With #2 as cheap as it is, it's just easier to run the vehicle on the intended fuel.
Sounds right. I change every 5k and I burn biodiesel.
 

velociT

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 10, 2006
Location
Not Austin, TX
TDI
06 Jetta TDI *sold*
UFO said:
Sounds right. I change every 5k and I burn biodiesel.
I also changed every 5k since new.

Ran B20 for the first 15k, and have only run Flint Hills ULSD since.

The car only gets driven a few days a week so 5k miles is usually past 6 months...

Once I get TDT in there next change, I'll probably try 7-8k intervals with a UOA done at 5k.
 

sdeck

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Location
Northern Colorado Front Range
TDI
2003 Jetta, 253K, 01M, DLC520s, VNT-17(sold); 2014 Passat SE 6M, 61,000 miles (Feb 16 buyback date)
Ditto, Ditto, Ditto

Dang, didn't know I had a twin out there! This is almost exactly what I went through on my '03 Jetta. Came to exactly the same conclusion about OCI- 4-5K MAX and get it analyzed! So now there are at least 2 well-documented cases for this.

Knuckledragger: I haven't replaced the turbo yet ($$$) but did that solve your oil consumption issue? How much were you burning? I have been at 1Q/800 miles for over a year now (~25K). (BTW, I grew up in Stevens Point and go back every summer. I'll try to look you up next year.)

Franko6 has been preaching this for a while now. All hail the oracle Frank......

See these for pics and my version:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=205502http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=205502
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=214903
 

memphis tdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Location
Memphis
TDI
1999.5 Jetta TDI
Although WVO may speed up intake clogging, the problem here is mainly the oilchange intervals and the egr, not the fuel.

I have been running a 50/50 mix, with a vegtherm on 3 different vehicles
for over 200k, the only problem I have had was caused by me not cleaning the intake on my Jetta TDI and it sticking a valve.

But I use Rotella synthetic or Mobile One every 5k and turned down the egr on the TDIs.

Get a egr delete and change your oil at least every 5k, you will be fine.
 

venomustill

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2006
Location
Appleton, Wisconsin
TDI
2004 Jetta GLS
I am starting to think you guys are right about the oil change. I got very confident after my last couple oil analysis checks. I have been running my oil around the 10,000 mark using Castrol TXT 505.01. I am also using WVO for the last 27,000 miles.
I have a thread on here about a glow plug mishap earlier in the car's life, but I am not thinking it is related.
Here if interested: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=196272
 

kingkos

Veteran Member
Joined
May 18, 2005
Location
"The Hammer", Ontario
TDI
2003 Jetta wagon TDI
Wow, thanks for the report!

Like sdeck, i am in a similar situation, losing about 1L/2500km. I really haven't done anything in terms of replacing things since performance and driveability are still fine.

In the summer, I did remove and clean my intake and didn't notice any build up on the head side through visual inspection. I kinda wish I had a borecope or something to get a better view inside. Something i'd like to do is maybe remove the head and inspect all the valves, etc....

I think there are some other things in addition to reduced OCI's you can do to prevent that build up inside the head like eliminate the egr and the temp. sensor mod that T's tdi has been preaching about.

Currently i am not running WVO since I was rear-ended a couple weeks ago and I removed the veggie system. I'm probably going to wait till the spring to put it back in.

steve
 

T'sTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Location
Maryland
TDI
2001 Jetta
I am apart of the camp that thinks some minor modifications need to be made to aspects of the engine to run VO for any successful amount of time.

I have not just turned my EGR down, but eliminated it all together. (lets toss emissions and illegality out the window beings burning VO straight isn't completely legal either)

I also rerouted the CCV to a catch can. I have yet to look at the catch can beings I just had it modified around 3k miles ago. (I'm about 200 miles away from an Oil change)

I change my oil every 3k regardless. I also change it with Rotella Synthetic which is good stuff. Some people call that overkill, I feel its just right. My car tends to smoke a good amount at idle with the bigger injectors that I run so I know blowby is occuring (I typically run a good % of biodiesel as well) I've adjusted my IQ as well as timing to solve that one and no dice.... I think I need my car chipped to have it adjusted out???

And since kingkos mentioned timing, I performed the fuel temp resistor modification. That allowed me to run two different fuels without having changes in timing (due to fuel temperature). So it eliminates that variable in which the car can adjust timing for. (I proved this both through VAG COM and monitoring my EGT gauge noticing that I was running anywhere from 50-100 degrees hotter on the same drive)

I feel VO is left best for the highway runs at consistent RPM's. Thats the only time I use it and recently VO burning has been very little because my commute has been drastically shortened to around 5 miles.

I think EGR and OCI are apart of burning VO to do so successfully. From what I gathered, many of the premature failures have had two things related, they were still running a fully functional EGR system and were still changing their oil at the factory recommened 10k.
 

Franko6

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
May 7, 2005
Location
Sw Missouri
TDI
Jetta, 99, Silver`
I think I've got enough VWO engine rebuilds to speak to the issue...

I think the biggest problem with the WVO crowd is that the fuel, being so much heavier, heated or not, causes less fueling. The average VWO'er compensates by installing larger nozzles. That does get more fuel, but there is an issue of atomization.

I don't think bypass gasses are the main issue. The bigger problem is pyrolization of the VWO on the piston and in the cylinder. Unless the fuel is completely burnt, it begins to accumulate and where it accumulates is in the rings. When enough VWO gets into the rings, it bypasses into the oil. But what it does in the rings is the worst of the problems... assuming you don't blow your turbo.

I can say that the heat issue that T'sTDI mentions is a very good idea and one that has been part of a professional WVO's program that I know.

I wish you good luck.
 

DarrenUK

Veteran Member
Joined
May 23, 2003
Location
SE England
TDI
Skoda Octavia 1999
Am I right in thinking that both SDECK and Knuckledragger both have cars with liquid cooled EGR systems? Going to get more deposits if you are cooling the waste gases as they recirculate.

Franko6 said:
I think the biggest problem with the WVO crowd is that the fuel, being so much heavier, heated or not, causes less fueling. The average VWO'er compensates by installing larger nozzles. That does get more fuel, but there is an issue of atomization.
Are people finding that their cars are not as quick when running WVO? I've heard people saying slower or quicker or the same but not noticed a trend with one particular type of car / engine.

If people are finding their cars slower I would look to see how restrictive is the fuel supply sytem.
  • How far is the veg flowing (short runs)
  • Diameter of the fuel pipes/hose (bigger has less restriction)
  • Size of fuel filter (and prefilter if fitted) and is it heated sufficiently for the climate / type of oil used)
see- http://www.ingentaconnect.com/content/pep/jae/2002/00000216/00000012/art00007

and

http://wiki.obed.org.uk/index.php?title=Fuel_hoses_and_pipes

Im now offering all kinds of equipment, including nice direct replacement Tdi heated filters with coolant or electric heater module options. Good for biodiesel or WVO. Seehttp://www.b-e-t.org.uk/

I've said it before and I'll say it again I wouldnt want to push the boundaries by running bigger injectors unless I was prepared to ensure it wasn't overfuelling.

Which brings me to-

T'sTDI said:
My car tends to smoke a good amount at idle with the bigger injectors that I run so I know blowby is occuring (I typically run a good % of biodiesel as well) I've adjusted my IQ as well as timing to solve that one and no dice.... I think I need my car chipped to have it adjusted out???
T's,

I'm still prepared to offer a reduced rate tuning for biofuels if you are interested. In fact I'll do you a great deal because I like you and your work and I'm interested to see what it will take to get your car to stop smoking!!!

Or have you tried, or looked into, using the 'hammer mod'

Best

Darren
 
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jasonTDI

TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Apr 26, 2001
Location
Oregon, WI
TDI
20' RAM 3500 CCLB dually HO/Aisan. 2019 Cherokee 2.0T
Shortened OCI are a good thing but cheaping out and using crap oil is just STUPID. Look, the TDI requires 5w40 syn oil. Period. Or 507 30w blah blah blah.

Anyway, Change the oil at 3 or 5K and use something like Rotella T 5w40. Far cheaper than some oils but still a good oil. You need all the ring protection you can get in a TDI and especially in a WVO car.

FWIW I've seen a ton of northern cars with veg therms and other 20-30 amp heaters KILL batteries in short order when they short trip the cars. The car has a hard enough time trying to charge a cold battery after the GP's and the starter whach the heck out of it and you add in everything else......just sayin'.
 

T'sTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Location
Maryland
TDI
2001 Jetta
DarrenUK said:
Are people finding that their cars are not as quick when running WVO? I've heard people saying slower or quicker or the same but not noticed a trend with one particular type of car / engine.
This is one problem that I have not encountered. I swear my car is actually a tad quicker on VO when its floored, but it is most definitely not slower. I have only done this one time and I don't run my car too hard on VO for obvious reasons. On the highway it runs great as well, which is where I do most of my driving on VO.

This is where I bring up the EGT argument. Higher EGT's would denote the fuel not burning as complete correct?? (I mean thats the only difference between the two fuels and the fact the TDI engine adjusts timing with fuel temperature makes sense...) I noticed pretty easily that the car was not as "peppy" as it was on diesel fuel. When I noticed I was running higher EGT's, the culprit had to be timing. The fuel temp resistor was great in that it eliminates that one variable that the car adjusts timing for. Now performance is equal on both fuels as well as EGT's which is what I was most concerned about.

Food for thought, if timing was not changed to compensate for a slower burning fuel, your not getting as a complete burn as what you were getting on diesel fuel. This is not a good thing with a fuel that likes to deposit on anything that it touches. A working EGR just makes matters worse...

Correct me if I am wrong, but it would take more throttle input on VO (if timing was not adjusted) to make the same amount of power to climb a hill that would otherwise require less if you were burning diesel fuel??? So if this is correct, your throwing more fuel at the equation, and still having problems with complete combustion. (accelerating problems even further??)

DarrenUK said:
T's,

I'm still prepared to offer a reduced rate tuning for biofuels if you are interested. In fact I'll do you a great deal because I like you and your work and I'm interested to see what it will take to get your car to stop smoking!!!

Or have you tried, or looked into, using the 'hammer mod'

Best

Darren
My IQ is around 5 or so, you think the hammer mod is worthwhile at that point?? I don't want to run into issues with starting... I know its the bigger nozzels that have caused the smoking because when my car was stock it didn't smoke hardly at all. Plus, I am pretty sure my turbo is on borrowed time. I am running a boost valve to make it work correctly (otherwise it spikes to 25 psi before 2000 rpms!!! :eek: So that could be a problem as well.

I'll keep you in mind for chip tuning. Right now I am a poor college student and don't got the money. :p
 

DarrenUK

Veteran Member
Joined
May 23, 2003
Location
SE England
TDI
Skoda Octavia 1999
T'sTDI said:
This is one problem that I have not encountered. I swear my car is actually a tad quicker on VO when its floored, but it is most definitely not slower. I have only done this one time and I don't run my car too hard on VO for obvious reasons. On the highway it runs great as well, which is where I do most of my driving on VO.
I have not noticed anything on any of the Tdis I have converted.

T'sTDI said:
This is where I bring up the EGT argument. Higher EGT's would denote the fuel not burning as complete correct?? (I mean thats the only difference between the two fuels and the fact the TDI engine adjusts timing with fuel temperature makes sense...) I noticed pretty easily that the car was not as "peppy" as it was on diesel fuel. When I noticed I was running higher EGT's, the culprit had to be timing. The fuel temp resistor was great in that it eliminates that one variable that the car adjusts timing for. Now performance is equal on both fuels as well as EGT's which is what I was most concerned about.
The EGT thing all gets a bit complicated when you throw a turbo charger into the equation. Still I guess that if you are getting similar EGTs and power (check your IQ at a given rpm with VAG-COM on a 'test strip') then combustion of different fuels would be comparable. WOuld be an interesting test.

T'sTDI said:
Food for thought, if timing was not changed to compensate for a slower burning fuel, your not getting as a complete burn as what you were getting on diesel fuel.
I don't necessarily think vegetable oil always burns more slowly. From reading lots of research papers it appears that at high loads/engine speeds it may burn quicker than diesel fuel.

T'sTDI said:
Correct me if I am wrong, but it would take more throttle input on VO (if timing was not adjusted) to make the same amount of power to climb a hill that would otherwise require less if you were burning diesel fuel??? So if this is correct, your throwing more fuel at the equation, and still having problems with complete combustion. (accelerating problems even further??)
I think so (see above).


T'sTDI said:
My IQ is around 5 or so, you think the hammer mod is worthwhile at that point?? I don't want to run into issues with starting...
I've not had to use the hammer mod and my memory is a bit hazy but IIRC going to far gives uneven idle and slow down shuddering? Not sure about starting. Using VAG-COM adaptation you can turn up the idle speed to stop an uneven idle also there is an adaptation channel for adjusting levels of fuelling during starting.

T'sTDI said:
I know its the bigger nozzels that have caused the smoking because when my car was stock it didn't smoke hardly at all. Plus, I am pretty sure my turbo is on borrowed time. I am running a boost valve to make it work correctly (otherwise it spikes to 25 psi before 2000 rpms!!! :eek: So that could be a problem as well.

I'll keep you in mind for chip tuning. Right now I am a poor college student and don't got the money. :p
As I said it would be interesting to see if we could stop your smoke.
My Skoda Tdi would boost spike so bad under hard acceleration that it would go into limp mode - not best when overtaking on windy English country lanes..... Turned out that the waste gate actuator had ceased - I worked it back and forth by hand a few times and then in gradually freed up in use.

I guess your car has a VNT turbo. Could the spikes be coming from the extra fuel the big nozzles are throwing into your engine? We could almost cetainly tune out the spikes.

Best

Darren
 

DarrenUK

Veteran Member
Joined
May 23, 2003
Location
SE England
TDI
Skoda Octavia 1999
jasonTDI said:
FWIW I've seen a ton of northern cars with veg therms and other 20-30 amp heaters KILL batteries in short order when they short trip the cars. The car has a hard enough time trying to charge a cold battery after the GP's and the starter whach the heck out of it and you add in everything else......just sayin'.
Interesting. In the cold you get all four glow plugs on for 3 mins + the coolant glow plugs (if fitted) that is quite a drain.

Of course diesels and regular short trips are not best suited for any diesel, they aren't at there best till they are nice and hot. Less so when running vegetable oil. Less so with the extra draw of a electric heater :)

Best

Darren
 

jasonTDI

TDI GURU Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Apr 26, 2001
Location
Oregon, WI
TDI
20' RAM 3500 CCLB dually HO/Aisan. 2019 Cherokee 2.0T
Darren, you are correct. Cold and short trips = bad for everything.

I'd not even remotely touch a car for a hammer mod if the iq is 5 unless you have serious issues. If your smoking the fuel isn't warm enough.
 

Todd B

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 30, 2007
Location
Oshawa, Ontario
TDI
None. 2002 gone to TDI grave.
Water Treatment

What about fogging the engine through the air intake with water once or twice a year to remove carbon build up????? Anyone have some thoughts about this???
 

coyotlviejo

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 5, 2008
Location
Grants Pass, Oregon
TDI
99.5 Jetta
Todd - Water injection is fairly widely known and practiced. Seems to be very effective at removing coking deposits, at least from what I've read here and over on the Biodiesel & SVO Forums. I'm betwixt water injection and another system that shall not be named here because it's a banned subject (but that also results in steam cleaning your cylinders :D ).

Dan
 

97TDIStu

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 1, 2005
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
2013 Jetta TDI Premium
1) There are no "cheap " Oil alternatives that still meet the CJ standards for the 2003 Jetta ALH engine. The Cheapest would be NON synthetic Rotella T 15w 40. Just about EVERYTHING else is going to be synthetic and more costly. Don't skimp, and change it every 5k.

2) Go back to stock injectors as the the Sprint 520's will spray MORE fuel. The trouble w/ WVO and Bio and "alternative Fuels" is that they tend to go down the sides of the cylinder walls because they don't spray as efficiently as dino diesel and thus, get into your oil. Using High Performace injectors will exaserbate this condition.

3) The Garrett VNT 15 and VNT 17 turbos used on the ALH's, etc tend to get crudded up inside when even using ULSD, let alone BIO or WVO, IF not run at a higher RPM prior to shifting. Trust me , I know, I just replaced my Turbo after initially thinking it was the N75 and then the Turbo actuator. My 1997 Passat 1Z never had a problem with the turbo in 306,000 miles because it has a Borg Warner and is designed differently. But as Frank, the nice guy from the Forum who sold me my new turbo said, " You need to drive these cars ( ALH's with Garrett turbos) like you stole 'em". My ALH required the new turbo after 55k mainly because my wife and I tended to shift early in order to maximize economy on the Scanguage II. Not anymore ( and because I don't know what quality of oil was used prior to me taking ownership at 48,000 miles- poor oil can also lead to premature turbo failure- especially the Garretts). I will be shifting at 2000 to 2500 when cold and 2500 to 3000 when warm. I've been through this all before. Take my advice if you wish but please don't think I'm being preachy.... Just want you to learn from my costly experiences.

4) The only thing with foregoing future WVO use in your case will be that you may perhaps alienate your supplier who may have to go back to paying to have his waste oil removed. When diesel prices go back up, and they will, he may no longer want to give it to you based on your inconsistent pickup history OR worse, he may have found somebody else to take it from him. In that case, unless you can find another source, you'll be back to paying for Dino diesel at $5.00 plus per gallon like everyone alse. And don't think those days won't be coming back.
 

DarrenUK

Veteran Member
Joined
May 23, 2003
Location
SE England
TDI
Skoda Octavia 1999
I wonder about using an intake air heater to aid combustion.

Or activating intermittent glow - this is an unused function which can be switched on with chip tuning. You can set a coolant temp and rpms level below which the glow plugs start to glow - at any point when the engine is running - not just after cold starting.

I've not tried this yet although am interested...... Think I'll get nice big batteries fitted first

- got the room in my car - Skoda Octavia (built on a golf platform) and my truck - VW LT35 Tdi Tipping truck with demountable Luton Box camper conversion (my LT shares a Sprinter body shell but have a 5 cyl 2.5 rotary pumped Tdi lump.)

I was thinking if I get problems from excessive draw, battery drain could be reduced by having the power supply pulse at say 50% duty when the glow plugs come on with a warm engine.

Setting the 'on' points for intermittent glow will take consideration of usage patterns and I guess a bit of trial and error - I may fit a volt meter to keep a close eye on things. Got some nice LED numeric temp gauges and vacuum/pressure gauges coming and can also get volts gauges from the same range. Going to be offering them at my web shop with the right fittings to bolt straight onto the Tdi injection pump.
 

T'sTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 11, 2008
Location
Maryland
TDI
2001 Jetta
DarrenUK said:
As I said it would be interesting to see if we could stop your smoke.
My Skoda Tdi would boost spike so bad under hard acceleration that it would go into limp mode - not best when overtaking on windy English country lanes..... Turned out that the waste gate actuator had ceased - I worked it back and forth by hand a few times and then in gradually freed up in use.

I guess your car has a VNT turbo. Could the spikes be coming from the extra fuel the big nozzles are throwing into your engine? We could almost cetainly tune out the spikes.
Thats what I had problems with on my car, it was undriveable to a certain degree. Any 3rd or 4th gear pulls you could just forget about because you were going into limp mode. I put a boost valve on my car as a temporary fix. The real fix is replacing the turbo which I plan on doing in the future.

Theres a combination of things that has not "helped" the boost spiking situation. I have a straight through 2.5 inch exhaust which eliminated back pressure as well as the extra fueling from the nozzels. I still had the same problem before the nozzel swap. I finally got a boost gauge on my car and saw what it was doing and was shocked to say the least.

Two things of interest-
When we replaced my exhaust system, my dad said a good amount of soot came out when he removed the CAT.

With the straight through exhaust system you get the turbo whistle which I love. Mine is a bit different in that it does not spool down for a long time. (Look at any youtube video of a free flow exhaust on a TDI and the turbo whines down for a good couple of seconds) My turbo spools down almost instantly. I know theres something not right but for now it works...

Pretty sure an older man drove the car before I bought it and I am sure he wasn't out racing from street light to street light as well.

Who said anything about babying these cars around. I love running mine up through the ranges. :D
 
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