Timing belt

Hey all, I’m having a problem getting my timing marks to line up. I have a 2005 Passat tdi 2.0. It runs fine and I’m just doing it as preventative maintenance but I can’t get the timing together, the Cam gear and the crank won’t matxh up when I rotate the engine. Thanks

Are you using indexing tools? Or marks you put on the crank and cam sprocket?

I’m using the marks on n the crank shaft with the timing tool kit 10050 and the teeth in the Cam gear positioned at the top with the timing kit pin.

Should be easiest to start with cam lobes up then find mark on flywheel. Not familiar with the cam pin, don't these use the slot for the vacuum pump like the VE?

You are doing something wrong. Bob, the PD is totally different than the VE.

You need essentially three tools:

The cam lock pin

The crank sprocket lock tool

The tensioner spanner wrench

You can perhaps make a drill bit or dowel or something work for the cam pin, and you may be able to get by without the spanner and instead use the Allen hole (but these can easily round out, which is why I prefer the spanner), but you really cannot makeshift something for the crank lock tool.

The new tensioner will come with the tensioner lock pin, if you want to use that to hold the tensioner in the counterhold position for installation (I find it easier to just slip the belt on and push the tensioner tab into the slot at the same time, before putting the new small roller on).

In any case, it is a pretty easy procedure if you just follow the directions. And I assume (hope) you know about the balance shaft chain/tensioner that blow apart, right?

just for the lulz, count the teeth on the old belt and the new.
about 7 years back, i did a timing belt on my honda accord. the OEM belt i got FROM THE DEALERSHIP was not lining up right and things were off, turns out they sold me the WRONG BELT, has 4 extra teeth that the stock belt had.
probably not the issue but worth a quick look at! Sounds to me that your missing a step in your alignment with the cam and the tentioner.

Ok I have the timing kit to lock the crank and pin for the cam and spanner tool, the original belt is still on the engine and it is still running, I just can’t get the Cam and crank in the position for all the directions I read. But the pin, will work only through the hole in the Cam where the teeth are at? I know that probably sounds weird but I can’t seem to post any pictures.

Use this picture as a reference on installing cam pin lock tool and crank lock.

Okay I think I’ve got something figured out, the Cam gear is is bolted on in the wrong position, the slot with the small teeth are in the position where the Cam pin goes and with that the backing plate has the hole for the pin and locks it in place and the crank shaft lines up with the tool 10050 and the metal tab on the back of the Cam gear lines up on the engine. Hope someone understand that lol I think I need to remove the gear and put it back on in the correct position with teeth in the 12 o’clock position.

Count the teeth, as Mongler98 said.

Scroll down to the DIY T/B procedure for the BHW engine.
https://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/b5-2004-2005-vw-passat-tdi-forum-faq-diy-bhw-engine/

Garageman1965 said:

Okay I think I’ve got something figured out, the Cam gear is is bolted on in the wrong position, the slot with the small teeth are in the position where the Cam pin goes and with that the backing plate has the hole for the pin and locks it in place and the crank shaft lines up with the tool 10050 and the metal tab on the back of the Cam gear lines up on the engine. Hope someone understand that lol I think I need to remove the gear and put it back on in the correct position with teeth in the 12 o’clock position.

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You may be 180 degrees out. Turn the crank one more revolution and check if the cam pin is close. IIRC, the cam sprocket (gear) only goes on one way. For every one revolution of the cam, the crank turns 2 revolutions.

Can't go wrong with the 4z mark on the camshaft.

Ol'Rattler said:

You may be 180 degrees out. Turn the crank one more revolution and check if the cam pin is close. IIRC, the cam sprocket (gear) only goes on one way. For every one revolution of the cam, the crank turns 2 revolutions.

Click to expand...

This!

Sorry boys, but the PD's don't have the same issues as the older AHU/ ALH, 1.6's...

The really great thing about the PD's... you CAN'T rotate them 180 degrees out.

The cam pulley has a woodruff key slot that is installed into the taper on the cam nose and the alignment pin can only go in one way.

The crank lock is the same thing. There is only one way it can go on and match the mark on the crank sprocket. That is the way it goes. If you are using the tool that works for any of the PD's, make sure you are using it according to directions. One way, it's the BEW/ BHW. The other way, it's for the BRM.

To continue, if the belt fits tight, it's right. Don't worry about it. The wider belt for the 1.9 and 2.0 PD's is universal for all single overhead cam PD motors. Less of an interchange issue than some cars.

Although the cam sprocket can be 'put on wrong', the only thing you need to worry about is to get the 3 bolts as close to thet middle of the adjustment as you can. For convenience, we put the large 'crown hole' UP as that is a reference for TDC.

Once you get the belt on and the cam sprocket aligned in the center of the adjustment for the cam sprocket, hand-tighten the cam sprocket screws. Set the spring tension on the timing belt tensioner, aligning the arrow and nock and tighten the tensioner bolt about 20-24 ft lbs. About 1/4 turn after all the slack is pulled up on the bolt.
Now, with the crank lock in position and the cam lock positioned, use a socket on the 18mm center bolt for the cam pulley and 'feel' the cam lock pin. When the pulley is just right, and the cam pin will slide out without resistance, tighten the cam sprocket pulley bolts one-at-a-time.

That's all there is to setting static timing. The trick comes with setting Engine Module/ Measurements/ Block 04/ torsion value for best economy.