deejaaa
Veteran Member
sounds like one of my ghetto mods. i like it!
Hissing/leaking EGR cooler fixed!
- Thread starter cujet
- Start date
bondtimbond
Veteran Member
Boy, this is an old thread but lots of good info. I am bringing the thread to the top again to see what folks are thinking today about the best way to deal with this problem, and to raise another question that I didn't see mentioned here. I apologize if it has been asked elsewhere and i haven't seen it yet.
So, it appears that everyone will eventually experience this problem once the factory bushing wears out on the flapper and the hissing will begin. On my 06 TDI with only 76K on it, I have not yet experienced loud hissing, or at least I haven't noticed it yet. I'm sure it is leaking some but must not be too bad yet. Some of you have dealt with this problem by disconnecting the vacuum actuator and welding the shaft over to lock the flapper and seal the leak site forever. It would seem to me that those of us who haven't yet worn the bushing enough to have a noticeable hiss might benefit long term by disconnecting the vacuum hose NOW to just deactivate the mechanism BEFORE it wears further thus possibly preventing any future need to do anything more???
John_tsouris and others describe that for them they observed no difference in performance or anything else regardless of the position of this valve. If that is the case, then would folks agree that my proposal of removing and plugging the vacuum hose to the actuator is a good idea to prevent the bushing wear from continuing? This would apply to those like me who haven't yet experienced the hissing, and to those who have replaced the cooler in the past for this problem. What do folks think?
So, it appears that everyone will eventually experience this problem once the factory bushing wears out on the flapper and the hissing will begin. On my 06 TDI with only 76K on it, I have not yet experienced loud hissing, or at least I haven't noticed it yet. I'm sure it is leaking some but must not be too bad yet. Some of you have dealt with this problem by disconnecting the vacuum actuator and welding the shaft over to lock the flapper and seal the leak site forever. It would seem to me that those of us who haven't yet worn the bushing enough to have a noticeable hiss might benefit long term by disconnecting the vacuum hose NOW to just deactivate the mechanism BEFORE it wears further thus possibly preventing any future need to do anything more???
John_tsouris and others describe that for them they observed no difference in performance or anything else regardless of the position of this valve. If that is the case, then would folks agree that my proposal of removing and plugging the vacuum hose to the actuator is a good idea to prevent the bushing wear from continuing? This would apply to those like me who haven't yet experienced the hissing, and to those who have replaced the cooler in the past for this problem. What do folks think?
nord
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 5, 2010
- Location
- Southern Tier NY
- TDI
- All turned back to VW. Now a 2017 Hundai Tuscon. Not a single squalk in 10k miles.
Mechanical wear is certainly involved however I suspect that the exhaust gasses tend to erode the bushing regardless of shaft to bushing wear.
GoFaster
Moderator at Large
I'm just driving with it hissing.
GoFaster
Moderator at Large
No kidding. I'm driving with the belly pan off because of that.
The eventual plan is to go big turbo and fix everything back there at the same time, but that's gotta wait for enough $ to show up and for this project to reach the top of the priority list, which it is currently not!
The eventual plan is to go big turbo and fix everything back there at the same time, but that's gotta wait for enough $ to show up and for this project to reach the top of the priority list, which it is currently not!
Well I just got my new one put on today, I originally had the egr delete but after a couple cold mornings and longer warm up time I decided to buy the new egr, I already had purchased the malone flashzilla in preparation for the egr delete, but now i am going to do the dynamic egr in the tune, It is a time consuming job if you haven't done it before. My biggest problem was I dropped a bolt and the cross member webbing ate it until I pulled the wheel off and found it. lol
Torque_Delight
TDIClub Enthusiast, Modded
I am in the process of replacing one of those...
I took the latest informations on this thread and redone the drawing.
If anybody see something wrong or things that could be added please tell me.
I took the latest informations on this thread and redone the drawing.
If anybody see something wrong or things that could be added please tell me.
Jet-Jet
Active member
Thanks Cujet
I repaired mine this weekend using your drawing. So far so good, hissing noise gone.
I repaired mine this weekend using your drawing. So far so good, hissing noise gone.
Torque_Delight
TDIClub Enthusiast, Modded
Strangely when I did mine, the OD was a little bit too large and the ID was too tight on the shaft also...
john_tsouris@hotmail.com
Veteran Member
OMG, this thread is so old.
I'm still running my 06 Jetta TDI on my original EGR cooler with the hole welded shut. I'm over 120,000 miles on that repair and still holding strong. I drove for thousands of miles with that hiss and exhaust in the cabin at stop lights.
Do yourself a favor and don't sign up for pulling this thing out every 50,000 to finesse a bushing into it somehow. Weld the damn thing and say goodbye.
I'm in the process of selling this TDI and saying goodbye to VW forever, actually.
It's not just boats. I say you love your VW two days..... the day you buy it, and the day you sell it......
I'm still running my 06 Jetta TDI on my original EGR cooler with the hole welded shut. I'm over 120,000 miles on that repair and still holding strong. I drove for thousands of miles with that hiss and exhaust in the cabin at stop lights.
Do yourself a favor and don't sign up for pulling this thing out every 50,000 to finesse a bushing into it somehow. Weld the damn thing and say goodbye.
I'm in the process of selling this TDI and saying goodbye to VW forever, actually.
It's not just boats. I say you love your VW two days..... the day you buy it, and the day you sell it......
john_tsouris@hotmail.com
Veteran Member
YES! You can even disconnect the vac line on the top of the engine to do it.
And then if it leaks anyway eventually, weld it.
My first thought was also to jam steel wool in the shaft opening and then seal it with high temp silicone or muffler repair cement like the NORD repair. That would be better than waving a welding stick under the car. If you remove the cooler though, weld that baby. The other stuff could eventually come out..... I melted half a stick in that thing while telling it "Yeah, try and hiss now you poorly designed #$%^& bastard!"
demhaizar
Active member
- Joined
- May 31, 2005
- Location
- BFL, CA & SW, MI
- TDI
- Jetta TDI 2006, 328d X-Drive, 2015 Passat TDI SEL DSG
After reading this thread and figuring out that I had the same problem with my EGR cooler on my 2006 Jetta TDI, I decided to try my own fix.
I did not want to have the bushing made and then take everything apart by cutting and grinding, then having to weld or pinch things together. I am just a lazy a$$.
Like john_tsouris said in previous posts, he welded the shaft to body of cooler with the flap in about a halfway position to fix his EGR cooler; I figured that I could do it a little simply. The following is what I did……
Started with.... these from the local hardware store, cost? about $5 and your time.
then I did this....the short bolt is the original bolt from the cooler, which is replaced with your modified longer bolt/spacer.
Doing this mod will leave the flap in a midway position, the pressure of the spring within the vacuum housing will hold the lever against your modified bolt. Like this....
I am showing this on a new cooler on the bench, because it is easier to take pictures, I suppose you could do this with the cooler still mounted to the car, but if your car is hissing then you may still have to use something like JB weld to help seal the leak. Oh yes don’t forget to disconnect the vacuum hose and PLUG it, I used the old short bolt I removed. GOOD LUCK!
I did not want to have the bushing made and then take everything apart by cutting and grinding, then having to weld or pinch things together. I am just a lazy a$$.
Like john_tsouris said in previous posts, he welded the shaft to body of cooler with the flap in about a halfway position to fix his EGR cooler; I figured that I could do it a little simply. The following is what I did……
Started with.... these from the local hardware store, cost? about $5 and your time.
then I did this....the short bolt is the original bolt from the cooler, which is replaced with your modified longer bolt/spacer.
Doing this mod will leave the flap in a midway position, the pressure of the spring within the vacuum housing will hold the lever against your modified bolt. Like this....
I am showing this on a new cooler on the bench, because it is easier to take pictures, I suppose you could do this with the cooler still mounted to the car, but if your car is hissing then you may still have to use something like JB weld to help seal the leak. Oh yes don’t forget to disconnect the vacuum hose and PLUG it, I used the old short bolt I removed. GOOD LUCK!
bakdoor
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Location
- NEPA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta, 2006 Jetta (gone), 1999 Jetta-blue (gone,) 1999 Jetta-green (gone)
After reading through this thread, I guess I should consider myself lucky that I haven't had to deal with this dreaded hissing until 210K on my 2006. Dealer wants $700 (including install) for a new EGR cooler...as Bradley Cooper said in The Hangover: "Yeah, that's not gonna happen." So my thought is to go the delete route. My question for you fine folks is: who's done the EGR delete, what kit/brand, and are you happy with it? I live in NEPA, so I could throw the car on the trailer and drag it down to both Rocketchip and/or DieselDubs, both in the Harrisburg area, to have any/all of this done. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Go see Mike at M&M, a VW guru, did mine for a whole lot less. 973 293-8588.
bakdoor
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2008
- Location
- NEPA
- TDI
- 2014 Jetta, 2006 Jetta (gone), 1999 Jetta-blue (gone,) 1999 Jetta-green (gone)
That's a good thought, he is a little closer to me. My only other question is this: what will an EGR delete and a stage one kit due to the mileage? Not looking for crazy power, but I don't want anything that's going to make the MPG's go down. Thanks!
fixer
Veteran Member
Did the delete and RocketChip tune, over a year ago, runs great, if you drive it the way you used to pre-tune no mileage hit, might even gain a bit. The thing is you won't drive it the same way, you'll use the power and sacrifice a few mpg and never look back. My only regret is that I didn't get a tune as soon as my warranty was up. Delete and tune perfect together.
jsrmonster
Veteran Member - TDIClub Enthusiast
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2002
- Location
- Red Lion, PA
- TDI
- 15 Golf SW DSG, RC3 piped, 99.5 Jetta Rocket PD150 6spd 4motion, 2000 ASV110 RC6 "Silverbullet" 5spd Race Car, 2003.5 Cummins QCLB 4x4 "Blue Monster" Jeep CRD juiced, MB Sprinter van juiced up
yes, no problem when accompanied with proper sw corrections to mitigate the control process. ie, ASV (flap) cycles with egr and when egr is blocked and this flap will normally cycle and starves engine of air killing fuel economy.
Not all tuners kill the egr ASV function (anti-shudder valve). You can check this with engine idling pull off intake pipe. This valve should be wide open and still and not cycling (when tuned). When engine is shut off it should also momentarily close. If tuner turns it off completely that is bad if you have runaway (cant shut off engine runaway). I have seen it still functional and also totally deleted in competitors tunes, not good. The many small details like this are what yields best fuel economy and eliminate part throttle anomalies. Even the oem engineers cannot get this working right during warmup.
Jeff
Wgr73
Veteran Member
Who makes a good delete kit for the 2006 BRM?
Off-topic and illegal matter
SVTWEB
Veteran Member
Looking for an EGR Delete Kit for my (3) BRM TDI powered Ski Boat ;-) Anyone have any insight?
LuvDaDiesel
Veteran Member
LMFAO 
. Love to see your boat.
. Love to see your boat.
greengeeker
Vendor
After reading this thread and figuring out that I had the same problem with my EGR cooler on my 2006 Jetta TDI, I decided to try my own fix.
I did not want to have the bushing made and then take everything apart by cutting and grinding, then having to weld or pinch things together. I am just a lazy a$$.
Like john_tsouris said in previous posts, he welded the shaft to body of cooler with the flap in about a halfway position to fix his EGR cooler; I figured that I could do it a little simply. The following is what I did……
Started with.... these from the local hardware store, cost? about $5 and your time.
then I did this....the short bolt is the original bolt from the cooler, which is replaced with your modified longer bolt/spacer.
Doing this mod will leave the flap in a midway position, the pressure of the spring within the vacuum housing will hold the lever against your modified bolt. Like this....
I am showing this on a new cooler on the bench, because it is easier to take pictures, I suppose you could do this with the cooler still mounted to the car, but if your car is hissing then you may still have to use something like JB weld to help seal the leak. Oh yes don’t forget to disconnect the vacuum hose and PLUG it, I used the old short bolt I removed. GOOD LUCK!
How has this held up? Where exactly does the EGR cooler leak occur on the part?
john_tsouris@hotmail.com
Veteran Member
I don't know what the purpose of the listed mod is. Possibly to hold the flapper in one position?
The purpose of welding the shaft to its bushing is to seal the exhaust leak, not to hold the flapper in position. It just so happens that welding the shaft will keep the flapper in a set position.
The question is, in which flapper position should one set before welding? I picked mid-travel.
JB Weld or whatever may seal the leak, but you would have to keep the shaft from moving. I wouldn't trust an epoxy or bondo to last that long, especially since this is not the easiest area of the car to get to.
Melt that metal baby! And don't buy a new EGR cooler to weld, that's dumb. Weld the old one and keep VW from raping you for $600.
The purpose of welding the shaft to its bushing is to seal the exhaust leak, not to hold the flapper in position. It just so happens that welding the shaft will keep the flapper in a set position.
The question is, in which flapper position should one set before welding? I picked mid-travel.
JB Weld or whatever may seal the leak, but you would have to keep the shaft from moving. I wouldn't trust an epoxy or bondo to last that long, especially since this is not the easiest area of the car to get to.
Melt that metal baby! And don't buy a new EGR cooler to weld, that's dumb. Weld the old one and keep VW from raping you for $600.
john_tsouris@hotmail.com
Veteran Member
Here