sgriff144
Active member
Several weeks ago I posted regarding smoke and vibration between 1500-2400 RPMs on a 2005 Passat. Most of the responses attributed the problems to cam shaft wear. The following is an update from my brother, who has been working on the car. Just wanted to see if anyone has further input. Thanks in advance!!!
Hey everyone, I’m the OP’s brother and I am working on the car for him now. I still haven’t been able to get the car running properly. I just wanted to give you all a rundown on what all I have done so far and hopefully you can help me out a little bit. Unfortunately, I don’t currently own or have access to VCDS, so I can’t run any tests with that. I realize that I may ultimately need to get it to diagnose the issue, but I just wanted to give you heads-up.
Current Issues
-Hesitation/shuddering from about 1,400 to 3,000 RPM. This is worst when there is a load on the engine. Occurs while gear or park/neutral. While revving the engine (in park) around 1,800 RPM, there is a very noticeable miss.
-Fairly heavy black smoke during heavy acceleration. There is usually a constant haze while driving.
-Glow plugs and harness need replaced.
-I have the parts and just need to get them installed. It has been around 60-70 degrees outside, so I’m guessing this shouldn’t affect anything.
-Motor mounts need replaced – Waiting to order replacements after I get the car running properly.
What I’ve Done
-Fuel Temperature Sensor
-Sensor was replaced to clear the P0183 code.
-Filters:
-Air filter is clean (I also tried running it briefly with the air filter removed to make sure it wasn’t the restriction) and the fuel filter was replaced.
-No improvements.
-MAF Sensor:
-The MAF sensor was replaced when the vibration first occurred (to clear the P0101 code). I have since heard of issues with MAF sensors from AutoZone, so I returned that one and replaced it with a Bosch unit.
-I have not had the chance to test drive the car since installing the new MAF sensor, but it still smokes/shakes while revving in park. I will drive it tonight and check the codes to see if the P0101 code comes back.
-When I replaced the AutoZone reman sensor, I first ordered a Bosch MAF sensor from Carquest, but it ended up being the wrong part. It still fit, so I tried installing it and test drove the car.
-The car still had a vibration and smoke, but it seemed to make a difference.
-Cleaned Intake:
-I removed the intake and cleaned the EGR valve, manifold, and anti-shudder valve. There was some buildup, especially at the EGR valve, but not terrible.
-No improvements.
-EGR Valve:
-I tried unplugging the EGR valve and driving the car.
-No improvements.
-I read that if you remove the EGR valve and plug it back it in, the valve should open and close when the key is turned to on. The valve remained closed when I did that, so I’m guessing the EGR valve may need replaced. I thought maybe the boost on the intake side was pushing the EGR valve open and letting too much exhaust gas in, so I made a blockoff plate for the pipe from the EGR cooler to the intake manifold.
-No improvements.
-Fuel Injectors:
-Ran two cans of LM Diesel Purge through the car.
-While revving the car to burn the Diesel Purge, I noticed that when slowly accelerating the engine, it would reach 2,200 RPM and then accelerate very quickly. Not sure if this is normal or not.
-Very small improvement, but doesn’t seem to be the main issue.
-Need to check the injector wiring. Are there any typical issue areas? Are there any recommended ways to test it? Maybe test for continuity in each wire from the injector back thru the harness and check for any wear on the harness?
-Is there any way to test the injectors with VCDS?
-Is it possible to clean them to make sure it is not just dirt clogging the nozzles?
-Camshaft:
-I checked the camshaft pulley thinking the bolts may have worked loose and thrown off the timing, but they are in the center of the slot and don’t appear to have moved at all.
-Removed valve cover and inspected the camshaft for wear. There is wear on one lobe on the #3 cylinder (I forget if it was intake or exhaust, but not the lobe for the injector), but it’s not terrible (edge of lobe is somewhat sharp, but it looks like a small bit of the chamfer is still there).
-The camshaft may be a contributing factor, but it doesn’t seem like the main issue because the problem occurred suddenly.
-Is there any way to test the camshaft with VCDS to see if it is the issue?
-Due to the expense, I’m trying to eliminate all other options first before doing anything with the camshaft.
-Check for Boost Leaks:
-Disconnected intake plumbing at turbo outlet and anti-shudder valve and pressurized to about 18 psi. No hissing or noticeable leaks. No pressure drop after a minute or so.
-Turbo:
-Removed turbo and checked actuator. Actuator is working smoothly and very little play in shaft.
-Vacuum Lines:
-I notice the vacuum line to the VNT actuator was in rough condition, so I replaced the vacuum lines on the passenger side of the engine. I need to check if there are more lines on the driver side, but I did not see any when I glanced over things.
-No improvements.
Hey everyone, I’m the OP’s brother and I am working on the car for him now. I still haven’t been able to get the car running properly. I just wanted to give you all a rundown on what all I have done so far and hopefully you can help me out a little bit. Unfortunately, I don’t currently own or have access to VCDS, so I can’t run any tests with that. I realize that I may ultimately need to get it to diagnose the issue, but I just wanted to give you heads-up.
Current Issues
-Hesitation/shuddering from about 1,400 to 3,000 RPM. This is worst when there is a load on the engine. Occurs while gear or park/neutral. While revving the engine (in park) around 1,800 RPM, there is a very noticeable miss.
-Fairly heavy black smoke during heavy acceleration. There is usually a constant haze while driving.
-Glow plugs and harness need replaced.
-I have the parts and just need to get them installed. It has been around 60-70 degrees outside, so I’m guessing this shouldn’t affect anything.
-Motor mounts need replaced – Waiting to order replacements after I get the car running properly.
What I’ve Done
-Fuel Temperature Sensor
-Sensor was replaced to clear the P0183 code.
-Filters:
-Air filter is clean (I also tried running it briefly with the air filter removed to make sure it wasn’t the restriction) and the fuel filter was replaced.
-No improvements.
-MAF Sensor:
-The MAF sensor was replaced when the vibration first occurred (to clear the P0101 code). I have since heard of issues with MAF sensors from AutoZone, so I returned that one and replaced it with a Bosch unit.
-I have not had the chance to test drive the car since installing the new MAF sensor, but it still smokes/shakes while revving in park. I will drive it tonight and check the codes to see if the P0101 code comes back.
-When I replaced the AutoZone reman sensor, I first ordered a Bosch MAF sensor from Carquest, but it ended up being the wrong part. It still fit, so I tried installing it and test drove the car.
-The car still had a vibration and smoke, but it seemed to make a difference.
-Cleaned Intake:
-I removed the intake and cleaned the EGR valve, manifold, and anti-shudder valve. There was some buildup, especially at the EGR valve, but not terrible.
-No improvements.
-EGR Valve:
-I tried unplugging the EGR valve and driving the car.
-No improvements.
-I read that if you remove the EGR valve and plug it back it in, the valve should open and close when the key is turned to on. The valve remained closed when I did that, so I’m guessing the EGR valve may need replaced. I thought maybe the boost on the intake side was pushing the EGR valve open and letting too much exhaust gas in, so I made a blockoff plate for the pipe from the EGR cooler to the intake manifold.
-No improvements.
-Fuel Injectors:
-Ran two cans of LM Diesel Purge through the car.
-While revving the car to burn the Diesel Purge, I noticed that when slowly accelerating the engine, it would reach 2,200 RPM and then accelerate very quickly. Not sure if this is normal or not.
-Very small improvement, but doesn’t seem to be the main issue.
-Need to check the injector wiring. Are there any typical issue areas? Are there any recommended ways to test it? Maybe test for continuity in each wire from the injector back thru the harness and check for any wear on the harness?
-Is there any way to test the injectors with VCDS?
-Is it possible to clean them to make sure it is not just dirt clogging the nozzles?
-Camshaft:
-I checked the camshaft pulley thinking the bolts may have worked loose and thrown off the timing, but they are in the center of the slot and don’t appear to have moved at all.
-Removed valve cover and inspected the camshaft for wear. There is wear on one lobe on the #3 cylinder (I forget if it was intake or exhaust, but not the lobe for the injector), but it’s not terrible (edge of lobe is somewhat sharp, but it looks like a small bit of the chamfer is still there).
-The camshaft may be a contributing factor, but it doesn’t seem like the main issue because the problem occurred suddenly.
-Is there any way to test the camshaft with VCDS to see if it is the issue?
-Due to the expense, I’m trying to eliminate all other options first before doing anything with the camshaft.
-Check for Boost Leaks:
-Disconnected intake plumbing at turbo outlet and anti-shudder valve and pressurized to about 18 psi. No hissing or noticeable leaks. No pressure drop after a minute or so.
-Turbo:
-Removed turbo and checked actuator. Actuator is working smoothly and very little play in shaft.
-Vacuum Lines:
-I notice the vacuum line to the VNT actuator was in rough condition, so I replaced the vacuum lines on the passenger side of the engine. I need to check if there are more lines on the driver side, but I did not see any when I glanced over things.
-No improvements.
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