I messed UP

Well I should have put things back together when I saw this:



I decided that with 70k miles on my 96 Passat things must look a lot worse deaper in the intake manifold. I started having trouble with the bolt on the far passenger side (the turbo-in plastic pipe was getting in the way) so I flexed it a little



The bottom portion that attaches to the turbo ... matter of fact it still is attached

To top it off it looks like the allen is stripped on one of the bolts and I have the oil supply for the turbo obstructing an other.

Well, looks like I'll be heading to the stealer tommorow to see how much the pipe costs.

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Roy Basch
96 Passat TDI

Ok, so how do I get the egr off? It looks like I will be without my tdi until the new turbo intake arrives ... might as well bead blast the intake.



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Roy Basch
96 Passat TDI

can you describe teh intake soot accum? how much of a layer of soot is on the intake?

From the above image I might guess there is over 5 mm of soot cloggin the passage. . .

Now Your'e at it, then how about cutting a thin plate in the shape of the EGR-valve attachment, and putting it between the EGR and the manifold? That could be be a *very* discreete way to get rid of aditional sooting from that valve - and no CEL !

Comments anybody?

GeWilli - It looks like there is only about 2 maybe 3 mm of soot at the ports. Past the egr by the bend I would estimate 5+ mm of soot.

Diesel-Bear - I think it would throw a code with the plate alone. I believe the only way forum members have solved this is joining the confederation.

I took the manifold to a machine shop today, he wanted $77 and was reluctant to blast it. He seemed worried that the egr was integrated with the manifold. I'll attempt to clean it myself first.

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Roy Basch
96 Passat TDI

Say Roy, are you planning to drill and tap in a small hose barb for a boost gauge while you're at it? This would be the time to do it right.

Near that bend is where the obstruction likes to build. The air slows down a bit and makes it easy to leave a soot and oil trail. I suggest routing your CCV off of the valve cover to underneath the car, this will eliminate the oil and keep the soot from globbing up. The soot alone is not strong enough to adhere itself to the walls of the manifold. Plus it will keep you EGT's down (a bit anyway).

Good ide Gewilli, tap a hole for a boost guage this would be the best time to do a really great job!

I have to agree that the job is not easy. I had to use a very long narrow screwdriver when I did my A3. It's a real bear working past the EGR valve. The A4's are easier since you can remove the whole EGR valve and get easy access to behind the valve.

Sorry to hear you broke the tube...

DB

Your EGR valve does not come off, but it does not need to anyway, call your local main NAPA and inquire if they have a bead blaster, I had mine done for $15.75. It's worth it to get it clean, especially if you plan on keeping it clean from now on. Know what I mean Vern?

Put a ball bearing inside the vacuum tube that activates the EGR then put the tube back on. This was a common pratice at the ford dealer when a car came in with drivability problem in the 70s.

antiquated ford technology could not detect a malfuntioning EGR, a TDI can. The MAF detects a change in air flow when the EGR valve is cycled, if the change is not detected the ECU throws a code and causes drivability problems. I found this out when I tried this on both my 98 and 2000 TDI's.

DB

I tried yesterday to get it bead blasted. I brought it in without cleaning it first with solvents. I know they didn't want the job, they "It will be at least $75".

Here is a lot!!! of work using carb cleaner, simple green, a reach tooth brush, and one of those flexible metal baking testers.





At this point I don't think I need the bead blast. Hopefully my tdi will be on the road soon.

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Roy Basch
96 Passat TDI

valois - I was a epsilonian neophyte for the last 10k but disconnected it a month ago. I threw a CEL and went into limp mode. I wiggled the wires a little to make sure the diodes didn't touch, but the CEL was still there. No problems since I disconnected it (yeah, I know ... the manifold). I'll try it again and see what happends. Do these things ever quit working?

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Roy Basch
96 Passat TDI

It's not unheard of. The switch is pretty easy to test it should switch the diodes in at 12" Hg. When closed there should be no resistance, when open there should be a .6 volt drop from one connector to the other, you can simply put a voltage meter across the diodes or a terminal on each connector to check. Generally at idle it will switch in when warm.

yeah an 1/8" NPT (or NPTF if you can get it tapped in NPTF).

great idea hmmm maybe we'll all be putting in some threaded boost gauge sensors a tthe next Michigan GTG . . . . hmmmmmmm


good to hear that there isnt that much soot but that is still quite a bit of soot. . . .

I've underestimated the amount of soot. I had a pile of it 3" high just from scraping. As near as I can tell there was deposits close to 1 cm thick by the bend after the egr. Boost gauge ... hmmm, it sure wouldn't be hard with the intake off. I'm not sure it would be that helpful in my tdi ... mostly stock. If I did put one in would it be that much better in the intake vs. the pipe from the intercooler?

It looks like my egr is pressed onto the manifold, I'm sure I would mess things up if I tried to remove it. I will have most of the soot removed by hand/solvent, how much of an improvement would bead blasting it be at this point?

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Roy Basch
96 Passat TDI