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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old March 26th, 2020, 18:41   #16
ToxicDoc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joep1234 View Post
Another direction is the radio amp. My son's Beetle has a problem with the Monsoon amplifier. If he doesn't pull the fuse to it, dead battery in no time.
^ That usually happens with an aftermarket radio. Monsoon amp won't turn off if not told to. I ended up having to go to a different amp for my radio.
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Old March 27th, 2020, 08:11   #17
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Originally Posted by mandrake slink View Post
Glovebox light was off when i opened it. I also worked on the glovebox not long ago. Disconnected the light after taking box out and the V drop went away. Battery (-) terminal in-line detection with 10A setting shows 10mA after 10-15 seconds.
Glove box light light gets power from fuse 1 all the time.
Black / brown wire.

Other side goes to the switch.
Gray / brown.

The switch grounds under the left side of the dash.
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Old March 27th, 2020, 10:45   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joep1234 View Post
Another direction is the radio amp. My son's Beetle has a problem with the Monsoon amplifier. If he doesn't pull the fuse to it, dead battery in no time.

Solution:
https://forums.vwvortex.com/showthre...aining-battery

(ignore the vortex kids complaining)
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Last edited by jokila; March 27th, 2020 at 10:47.
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Old March 28th, 2020, 04:26   #19
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yeah, the parasitic drain is still there. with the meter on 10A setting, inline to (-) and waiting 10-15 secs, it is back to hover around 0.39-0.4 which is a lot. I think:

1) apparent fix I observed earlier was random but at some times it goes down to 0.001 inline at the battery. ALSO AT THIS TIME there was 0.0 VOLT DROP on fuse 14!

2) I see the key needs to be ON to function the glovebox light. Oops! thanks Jokila! Also, my stereo is the stock factory monsoon set and I don't detect any current on any of those fuses.

3) the door locks 30 seconds thing was a Vag-Com setting (AUTO LOCK) The behavior was reset after sitting with no power I guess.

4) door switches on both front doors are borked and have been for a long time. There were also some faults on VAG COM central locking module. I think they were intermittent voltage to all four door locks or something like that. I'd read them now, but the battery is dead again. It takes 3 days or less to die I guess. ShEEESh!

Taken together, I think this means the door switches problem I've had for a long time is a very likely suspect. That these behave erratically as well is in keeping with the apparent erratic solution to the problem I observed earlier. I'm going to double check all the panel fuses again and go from there. Likely tearing the doors down, and its raining today. great...
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Old March 28th, 2020, 04:39   #20
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Have you tried disconnecting the alternator wire at the top of the battery?
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Old March 29th, 2020, 14:49   #21
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Ouch! I just ran a VAG COM auto scan and showed a bunch of Fault Codes. Yikes!! Is this a bad module? Maybe a short in the line of the module? I ran this a day ago and didn't get the passenger locking F221 error. So, now 6 codes here. Hmmmm?

Address 46: Central Conv.
Controller: 1C0 959 799 C
Component: 1H KomfortgerŠt HLO 0003
Coding: 00259
Shop #: WSC 00066
6 Faults Found:
01330 - Central Control Module for Central Convenience (J393)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
00929 - Locking Module for Central Locking: Front Passenger Side (F221)
54-10 - Incorrectly Equipped - Intermittent
01331 - Door Control Module: Driver Side (J386)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01332 - Door Control Module: Passenger Side (J387)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01333 - Door Control Module: Rear Left (J388)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
01334 - Door Control Module: Rear Right (J398)
53-10 - Supply Voltage Too Low - Intermittent
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Old March 29th, 2020, 15:59   #22
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Save it. Clear the codes and see what comes back.
If you disconnected some fuses or the battery itself the modules know it.
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Old March 30th, 2020, 09:16   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandrake slink View Post
2) I see the key needs to be ON to function the glovebox light. Oops! thanks Jokila! Also, my stereo is the stock factory monsoon set and I don't detect any current on any of those fuses.
I think the light in mine worked w/o the key.
Not positive about it.

It should be hooked to fuse 1.

Some have posted that disconnecting both battery cables and shorting them together for several seconds has cleared some problems.

With you diagnosing keep in mind that some devices in the car do have power for a brief time after exiting the car.
Some for several minutes.

From the low currents in your 1st post I do not think they will be there 5 minutes after removing the key.

Try opening the drivers door and closing the latch with a large phillips screw driver (2 clicks) and waiting several minutes before measuring the fuse drop voltage.

Last, how old is your battery and is it the correct group 94?
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Old March 30th, 2020, 17:25   #24
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I think the CCM will timeout completely after 60 mins (this is why if you leave your interior light on, it will turn off automatically, same with the factory radio). You should wait until then to do battery tests. If you open a door, that timer is reset.
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Old March 31st, 2020, 06:44   #25
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Fuse 4 was blown, the license plate lights. Voltage drop 0.3 mV was detected that would randomly go as high as 3.1mV, sometimes 0.0mV. The computer may actually sense the fuse being inserted by measuring Vdrop on fuse 4's blown contacts (without actually removing the fuse) and waking. Wire harness in the left trunk area was frayed. It had been chopped by the trunk hinge years ago and repaired poorly. I soldered all these wires and shrink sealed. The trunk lock and the trunk switch are on this harness and everything there is good now. Fuse 4 was replaced and I re-performed the TSB_27_08_04_Matrix protocol.

In the sleep state, (connect battery, open door, close latch (2 clicks), lock remote, wait 2 HOURS, YES 2 HOURS!!!) the only vdrop measured now is 0.3-0.4 mV at fuse 14. This corresponds to about 50 mA in the matrix table give or take. This is technically above the nominal sleep current of 40mA for my model. I'm guessing that its okay because its only 10mA difference. Is this actually an okay current measure in sleep?

As well, I have concern about the radio system fuse 42 that was dropping 0.3 mV yesterday when checking (a couple hundred milliamps), but out of the sleeping state probably. Going to unlock car, wait 2 hours with doors closed and then check. We'll see.

Is there a hood position switch on 2003 Jetta? I was concerned open hood affecting the sleep.

Does the computer ever sleep without being locked/armed? I don't usually lock it because alarm goes off sometimes. I guess it wouldn't matter that its awake if the radio/amp didn't draw current improperly. Hmm. I'll repost when I see what fuses are drawing after a few hours unlocked car.

Last edited by mandrake slink; March 31st, 2020 at 06:47.
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Old March 31st, 2020, 13:00   #26
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Originally Posted by mandrake slink View Post
Does the computer ever sleep without being locked/armed? I don't usually lock it because alarm goes off sometimes. I guess it wouldn't matter that its awake if the radio/amp didn't draw current improperly. Hmm. I'll repost when I see what fuses are drawing after a few hours unlocked car.
I'm pretty sure it does.
If it didn't then there would be more of a current draw.

From your original post:
'electrical parasites drained my battery dead within a week or so.'

How old is the battery and is it the correct group 94?
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Old March 31st, 2020, 13:14   #27
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Is there a hood position switch on 2003 Jetta? I was concerned open hood affecting the sleep.
If the hood latch is the same part as on my 2002, then there's at least a microswitch on that to tell the alarm system whether the hood is open/closed. it's on the front of the latch - pop the grille off and have a look, it'll be on the left (passenger) side of the latch as you're standing in front of the car looking at it.

Mine recently got stuck in the "hood closed" state, allowing me to arm the alarm with the hood open. Not sure whether there's additional monitoring going on if the hood's left open or not, but you could always use a small screwdriver to push the switch down into the closed position for your test...
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Old Yesterday, 05:05   #28
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Battery is a 2017 AGM Napa legend 9894r. Group 94. 800 CCA. Got the expensive agm charger too. I think my problem is solved once the front door latches get repaired and stop waking the car, calling for internal lights, etc.
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