2012 Passat HID DIY Install

magrider

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If he sealed it with moisture inside it won't have a way out. Should have cleaned/dried it first then seal.
It would eventually clear via the venting holes when the headlight is turned on, but yeah it would have been a good idea to clear that stuff out before sealing.
 

Bio

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The condensation was probably caused by some water that got inside when you had the rubber cap removed, or due to the rubber cap not being tightly re-installed afterwards. Since you didn't breach the headlight, making sure the rubber cap is properly sealed would fix it. If you want the condensation to clear sooner as to minimize reflector damage, have your guy blow compressed air into the headlight via the venting holes on either side of the headlight back housing. This should clear up the condensation pretty quickly and as long as your rubber caps are seated properly it won't happen again.

Since your HID works, the problem is probably with your error eliminator. I haven't used the DDM eliminator before, but I have used these and they work on my 2012 Passat:

http://shop.lightwerkz.net/Super-CANBUS-Warning-Canceler

I am guessing the one from The Retrofit Source will work fine as well.

The DDM stuff is pretty crappy quality but your really can't complain due to the cheap price.
He realized the problem and blew compressed air into the headlight via the venting holes on either side of the headlight back housing. Also said some condensation might return that he would do it again, but haven't had the chance due to the holidays and all.

As far as the DDM stuff, I had no idea what I was walking into. I am glad I found this forum and starting to get to know the right people and right parts for my car. As for the error, I noticed he left a wire hanging behind the head light assembly. I don't really know what that's for, but I hope he will address it ASAP. Maybe that is the reason the error is still there? I spoke to a few guys here and none of them used the error eliminator, after he nplugged from it, the message is still there.

So if I had to do it from the start, aside from the DDM stuff, what exactly do I need and where do I get them, I might as well just get it and bring them to the meet in NH.

:confused::mad:
 
Last edited:

passsattdi

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Go to the TDI 101 Forum, click on the "HOW TO" sticky at the top of the page. At the bottom of the first post is a link to "how to post pictures."

Again, try removing the eliminator and see if that solves your issues.
Hey VeeDub.... Do we know where we can get the plug sockets to make the extension of the wiring harness just as the two companies selling the projector housing?
 

VeeDubTDI

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You can buy them at the dealership but they're expensive. They will probably have to order them for you, as I doubt they carry them in stock - can't hurt to check.
 

passsattdi

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You can buy them at the dealership but they're expensive. They will probably have to order them for you, as I doubt they carry them in stock - can't hurt to check.
They can get the plug as well as the socket? That is good. There are a couple places on line thatare perported to be cheaper. Even if I need to go the route of dealership, cheaper than screwing up the headlight portion of the warranty. Thanks VeeDub.
Bill
 

passsattdi

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What exactly are you trying to do?
I would like to build a wire harness to go between the car harness and the headlight to allow me to put in HIDs. I do not want to replace the whole lamp. They seem to work well enough with the halogen reflectors.
 

VeeDubTDI

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I see. In that case, you should do like what Jason and I did - adapters not required.
 

passsattdi

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I see. In that case, you should do like what Jason and I did - adapters not required.
Not sure if I remeber correctly, but that is picking up the leads inside the housing, correct? Yeah was thinking about that.... And the Chinese headlamps... That already have the adapters.... {:^) Just the 7 bills hurts.
 

VeeDubTDI

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Yeah if you're just doing an HID retrofit, pick the leads up from inside the housing. Your wiring will remain completely stock on the car side and you've already voided the warranty on the headlamp housings by installing HIDs in the first place. It's a bit more work but a really clean install (and cheaper than $100 in connectors).
 

passsattdi

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Yeah if you're just doing an HID retrofit, pick the leads up from inside the housing. Your wiring will remain completely stock on the car side and you've already voided the warranty on the headlamp housings by installing HIDs in the first place. It's a bit more work but a really clean install (and cheaper than $100 in connectors).
Ouch.... They really rake you, don't they!
 

VeeDubTDI

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They really rake anyone who will walk in their door. Thieving bastards, they are. They tried to get Jason to pay $60 for a fuel filter! :eek:
 

rmd0311

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Hello All,

Let me start by saying that YES, I did read through all 11 pages, wish niner's pictures were still up. I wanted to just summarize and have someone tell me I am right before I go an dump the $100 on this. After 4 months with the car, these headlights are driving me nuts... I thought about the chinese crap, but don't fill like spending 600+...

First of all, both options are the same... Just that one has plastic parts and the other has metal parts and comes with a lifetime warranty. Correct? Other than that the install is the same. You can either wire outside the assembly and modify the factory harness or inside and just tap into those two black cables.

This is where I have the questions... I read that everyone hates the t-taps, because of salt and everything else, but they will be INSIDE that rubber seal, I know you are putting a slit in the seal for the wiring, but is the worry that big. Also, I rather not unmount the housing to solder if the t-taps are that bad plus I SUCK AT SOLDERING. Couldn't I just splice the wires and wrap then in heat shrink wrapping, which is waterproof, is there enough room in there for a splicing tool?

I think the XS would be better, but more money... Anyone else? Is it really worth the extra $90?
 

VeeDubTDI

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My opinion is: don't do a cheap and dirty job - you'll kick yourself later.
 

magrider

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Since you only had your car for 4 months, I assume it is still in warranty. I would recommend aiming the headlights up and getting a pair of the 65W Rallye bulbs to see if that will be sufficient for you.http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html
The 65W Rallye gives you 700 more lumens, which is about what a H8 bulb produces(incidently what we have in the stock fog lights), so it is a significant amount of extra light. If you are not happy and still want to go PnP HID, it's not a waste since you can just use the Rallyes for the high beams and save the stock 55 watters as spares.

People don't like T-taps because it is a pressure contact, which is susceptible to vibrations and becoming loose over time. If you don't want to remove the headlamp then I would recommend you use the T-taps because it is easy. Otherwise I would use solder because if you do it right it will not come loose. There are plenty of videos on youtube teaching you how to solder, it is not that hard :). Keep in mind this probably will give dealer reason to void warranty on your headlights. But if you tap the wires INSIDE the headlight, there is less of a chance they will find out should you need to get the headlight assembly replaced under warranty.
 

VeeDubTDI

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Our complete HID conversion headlights (with headlight assemblies) will be for sale at some point in the future when we get the Chinese lights repaired and hooked up in a satisfactory manner. It is totally plug and play in any 2012 or 2013 NMS Passat.
 

rmd0311

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Our complete HID conversion headlights (with headlight assemblies) will be for sale at some point in the future when we get the Chinese lights repaired and hooked up in a satisfactory manner. It is totally plug and play in any 2012 or 2013 NMS Passat.

Are you saying you are getting those done? Or someone here in the states, is working on a descent replacement.

I don't care much about the warranty. I have had the car for 4 months and have 12k on it. I do between 33 and 35k per year.

That said, splicing and covering with weather seal shrink wrap should do a much better job than the t-taps even if its not as great as the solder...
 

magrider

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That said, splicing and covering with weather seal shrink wrap should do a much better job than the t-taps even if its not as great as the solder...
You mean just twisting 2 wires together and wrapping with shrink wrap? I don't think that will hold up very well. At least the T-taps cuts into a wire and give you a tight contact. From personal experience, twisting the wires never held up reliably for me. For something as critical as headlamps I would use T-taps or solder. Exposure is not the biggest concern here, it is vibration.
 

VeeDubTDI

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rmd0311 said:
Are you saying you are getting those done? Or someone here in the states, is working on a descent replacement.
Neither... compu_85 did a HID retrofit to our stock Passat headlights. He did a very nice job on it, taking the time to remove the assemblies and wire the HIDs into the headlights, keeping the car's body harness 100% stock (there are pics and a detailed description of the project earlier in this thread). This set of headlights will be for sale once we get the Chinese market bi-xenon projector set repaired (bought it damaged from a forum member, but the price was right price), installed, and working to our satisfaction.

So - if someone is looking for a plug-and-play (swap the entire headlight housings) retrofit in the future, keep this in mind. 4300K XE+ kit. This might be particularly good if your stock headlights are damaged or have a buildup of condensation inside.
 

VeeDubTDI

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Looks like a start-up company importing and reselling things from China. They don't even have their website fully built yet, so who knows what to expect.
 

phlfly

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I would like to bump this thread as it hasn't been touched in awhile.
Does anyone have any knowledge or experience with the plug and play lights from KraftigTuning: http://kraftigtuning.com/ Are these just a repackaged chinese plug and play?
They have a video on youtube showing the lights and they seem to work good http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1z777g0RnU
Thanks
I saw couple members, on VWvortex, had replaced their OEM's with that one. Look ok, but price to high for this mod since it doesn't bring anything then appearance. I will better spend same money on upgrading power to 170hp and ~ 300 torque.
 

mrmoto35

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Noticed a problem with these... they will not stay lit of you turn them on when the engine running. Turn on the lights with the engine off and they start first time. I'll have to do some more testing on this...

-J
Hello,
I have read all 12 pages of this thread a couple times didn't see if you resolved this? I have the kit ready to go and would like to install it the same way you did. I would never use T-Taps and I do not want to do anything outside the housing. I also ordered the the HEX+CAN cable from Ross-Tech so I can make whatever changes are necessary.

If you have already posted the resolution for this and I missed it please forgive me, I apologize.

Thanks!
Gordon
 

mrmoto35

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It fixed itself once the lamps got some hours on them.


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Great, I will proceed. Thanks for the quick response and also for posting your install method on page 6. My cable is scheduled to be here Thursday and I will wait until then to do the install so I can turn the Bulb/Light Saver off at install.

Thanks again!
 

compu_85

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... None :S
Because of the low beam socket design there is no way for it to be plug and play... unless you made an adapter harness that plugged into the body and headlight.

-J
 

mrmoto35

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It fixed itself once the lamps got some hours on them.


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I installed them tonight and so far no problem with them firing regardless if the car is running our not. One thing I did notice is that when I turn them on they flash very bright for a nano-second and then they dim. After that they slowly get brighter (2-3 seconds) I haven't upped the volts yet as my cable doesn't get here until tomorrow and I am anxious to see how they behave after that
 
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