Mk2 Gti 1z conversion thread

bblume

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92 Vw mk2 gtd
Thanks Steve!

I had to use one stock IC pipe piece. But all the rest can be yours if you still want any of it.

I have the passat hood blanket. I also sourced some plastic brackets to hold it on. But got sidetracked when I was trying to find time to install it. It doesn't really fit that well either.
So not sure what ill do there. I do have lots of sound deadened that I could probably use on the hood. That'd be better than nothing...
 

Steve Addy

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Yes, I can still put the piping and B4 cooler to good use, PM me for details etc.

I picked up a B4 underhood blanket for my B3 project but I haven't tried to fit it yet, I'm still working on the rear axle area, getting ready to drop the fuel tank, which I think has quite a bit of rancid gasoline in it.

Can't wait to see this run after you get all the last bits sorted out.

Steve
 

bblume

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Sweet!
I'll box up the IC stuff next week.

LiC as I left it today.


I too am getting excited about driving it.
Today got the DP on (I threw some heat tape on too)
finished up all but one vacuum line
Obviously got the bumper and grille and the turns in
Got the axles in and the axle nuts.
Still need to bleed everything and fill up everything with fluid.

So here's the vacuum line question of the hour...
According to this diagram there's a vac line that goes to the intercooler piping after the turbo but before the intercooler. I looked at the stock piping and there's no nipple on that section at least that I can see. I'm about to tap a line in there. But I'm wondering because I saw a second nipple on the vacuum pump wondering where that goes because I don't have that and use right now...
 
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Steve Addy

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Hmmm, trying to work from memory here so this is a little tough and my references are Mk3 so there are some differences. The charge air piping on the Mk3 does have a nipple that I thought went to the ECU but now I don't remember which leg it was on, outbound to cooler or return.

I'll have to take a look tomorrow and post back, since the schematic doesn't actually physically represent what I'm trying to remember it's confusing me...lol.

I have a similar diagram to that but it's on the other laptop and that ones been flaky lately, I need to move all my TDI stuff off that one asap before it totally blows a gasket.

Steve
 

bblume

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This schematic does have the line running from the return pipe to the ecu.
I plumbed that one yesterday and replaced the tiny piece inside the ecu as well.
I have a temporary cap on the second nipple near the vacuum pump.
And I have a line waiting to go into the outbound IC pipe. I was going to hold off until I could do a bit more reading and research as well as hear back on here! ��
 

Steve Addy

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second small nipple on vac pump should be capped AFAIK. I'm just recalling this from memory but seems that it has a green cap on it.
 

greengeeker

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The second boost pressure line goes from a nipple on the compressor housing to the n75. It then comes from a 2nd port on the n75 to your actuator.
 

bblume

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The second boost pressure line goes from a nipple on the compressor housing to the n75. It then comes from a 2nd port on the n75 to your actuator.
So what you're saying contradicts the diagram???

I have all of it plumbed according to the diagram, except for the purple line from the n75 to the post-turbo piping before it gets to the IC.

Which actuator are you speaking of?
 

bblume

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Ok

What I think Greengeeker is trying to say (and I discovered after looking more closely at the turbo assembly duh!) is that there's already a nipple on the outlet side of the turbo. Obviously this is the 'purple' line in the diagram...it just doesn't show that you're getting boos pressure from the turbo itself...it looks like it wants to hook up somewhere in the line...anyways I've got all those vacuum lines hooked up with the n75 since there is another nipple on the WG actuator...per greengeeker's suggestion...THANKS GG! And for now I'll simply keep the 2nd nipple on the vacuum pump capped off..(unless I hear different from SteveAddy??).

So the car is now on all four wheels on the ground...the brakes are bled (may have to do this again as I had a student pressing on the pedal and what is firm to him may not be firm enough for regular driving...

4 liters of oil are in...I'll throw that last half liter in after start up.

Still need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder...

right now charging the battery...
Looking to start tomorrow or Wed. depends on time available...

Thanks again for the help!
 

greengeeker

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Ok
What I think Greengeeker is trying to say (and I discovered after looking more closely at the turbo assembly duh!) is that there's already a nipple on the outlet side of the turbo. Obviously this is the 'purple' line in the diagram...it just doesn't show that you're getting boos pressure from the turbo itself...it looks like it wants to hook up somewhere in the line...anyways I've got all those vacuum lines hooked up with the n75 since there is another nipple on the WG actuator...per greengeeker's suggestion...THANKS GG! And for now I'll simply keep the 2nd nipple on the vacuum pump capped off..(unless I hear different from SteveAddy??).
So the car is now on all four wheels on the ground...the brakes are bled (may have to do this again as I had a student pressing on the pedal and what is firm to him may not be firm enough for regular driving...
4 liters of oil are in...I'll throw that last half liter in after start up.
Still need to bleed the clutch slave cylinder...
right now charging the battery...
Looking to start tomorrow or Wed. depends on time available...
Thanks again for the help!
Glad you figured it out. ;)

Just block the second vacuum port. It is for a solenoid for the hvac system...something you don't need.
 

bblume

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So threw some fuel in and I've been charging the battery and come to find out I've got nothing but a click. Ignition switch tests out fine. (Meaning a test light shows power on key and also when I move it all the way to the start position

So I'm thinking it's something in the box. I think it has to do with jumping the starter wire somewhere???


The two wire black connector to the left of that one I cant find in my notes, but the red black wire goes to the starter and I have a tag on that connector that says "need to jumper these two" so it might be for neutral safety switch. I'll see if I can find more.

Steve
Any advice here as to which wires need to be jumped for the starter to work?
Also the instrument cluster is getting power because I can see the time and the mileage but no lights when I turn the key on???

Fun stuff I know!
 

bblume

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Also are there any other relays besides the glow plug relay that need to come over into the fuse box from the donor?
 

Zed.

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'89 B3 T'die Passat wagon. '95 T4 van (1Z T'die converted). '87 mk2 Golf AHU tdi converted /02a etc. '92 & '95 200tdi Landrover Discovery
Also are there any other relays besides the glow plug relay that need to come over into the fuse box from the donor?
If you are CE2 (I've had a quick skim of the start of the thread :eek: ) then the 'Famous' 109 relay needs to be fitted in the fusebox.

Also I use http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html as a lifesaver for wiring issues, sorry if you've sorted everything but I'm off to read everything in this thread

Rich.
 
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Steve Addy

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Also are there any other relays besides the glow plug relay that need to come over into the fuse box from the donor?
As the PP said the 109 has to come over and obviously so does the GP relay too. Other than that it depends on what equipment you have on the car. A cursory look at the Bentley would tell you if you needed anything else, but tbh I would just populate the relay panel the way it was in the car before, excluding the FI relay in #12 though.

Steve
 

bblume

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Ok guys. I need some help.... ( what else is new)....I got the starter working
Kind of started trying to bleed the fuel injector lines by cracking them and cranking...but I think before I venture any further, I'd like to get the cluster working. I've got power to it (odo and clock are working) but no lights otherwise. Not sure what else to do. It's a mk3 tdi cluster and a mk3 tdi cluster harness. It's plugged in to u1 and u2 but I've got nothing doing when I turn the key. Not bat light no GP light no oil pressure or cel.
I've tested the fuses and I've got power there on key and when I swap on the Passat tdi cluster there's the same issue. Any ideas of where to go next?

I've got a blue plug with a red and white wire unconnected and a black plug with a gr/blk and blk and white wires unconnected. Everything else has found a home.

Any help is truly appreciated!!


Maybe tomorrow I'll swap in the Passat instrument cluster harness to eliminate the mk3 tdi instrument harness as the culprit.
 
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Steve Addy

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blue plug w red/white is for AT cars only (ignore it)
black plug with gr/blk and blk/white is for turn signals.

On a MK3 the gr/blk connects to A2/4 (combined with other gr/blk)
On a B3 the blk/wh wire ends up at A1/2. (don't know on Mk3)

Steve
 

bblume

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Thanks Steve. That narrows things down knowing that the turn indicator plugs aren't to blame for the cluster not illuminating.

That means that the problem either lies in the wiring between the fuse (which has key power) and the plug(s) either where it connects at u1 and/or u2 or in the harness itself leading up to the cluster. The investigation continues. Btw did you already pm me your address so I can send you this IC stuff?
 

Steve Addy

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I will send you my address

As for the cluster light situation I think you should focus your attention on U2/1 which connects internally to E/2 and is listed as cluster lights / gauges. E/2 in turn connects to either D/11 or D/8. D/8 is cluster power for Mk3, D/11 is cluster power for other 1991+ cars. The latter though looks like it's part of fuse 14 but the former doesn't seem to be, or at least that's what A2resource says.

Steve
 

bblume

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Thanks again...at this point I'm just gonna send you all those parts in exchange for all of your help.

Got the cluster working...d8 had power on key. But there was no connection to e2
When I created a connection the cluster came to life. Thanks for helping me narrow things down.

Got my fuel lines sorted and sealed up.
Still need to wire the in tank pump up,to key power. Right now it will run as soon as I connect the battery if I leave the jumper relay in position 12. I'm not so worried about that adjustment. What is a concern right now is the fact that it seems like fuel isn't getting through the IP. While cranking (and with fuel getting to,the IP using the lift pump) fuel isn't coming out of the injector lines that are cracked enough to bleed out air first. ???

Is there a way to electrically jump the IP to pass fuel while cranking? could another wiring issue be disallowing the IP from passing fuel on?

Step by step, getting closer.
 

vw_nut

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You can hook up a vacuum pump to the return line and it will prime the pump
 

Steve Addy

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Thanks again...at this point I'm just gonna send you all those parts in exchange for all of your help.

Got the cluster working...d8 had power on key. But there was no connection to e2
When I created a connection the cluster came to life. Thanks for helping me narrow things down.

Got my fuel lines sorted and sealed up.
Still need to wire the in tank pump up,to key power. Right now it will run as soon as I connect the battery if I leave the jumper relay in position 12. I'm not so worried about that adjustment. What is a concern right now is the fact that it seems like fuel isn't getting through the IP. While cranking (and with fuel getting to,the IP using the lift pump) fuel isn't coming out of the injector lines that are cracked enough to bleed out air first. ???

Is there a way to electrically jump the IP to pass fuel while cranking? could another wiring issue be disallowing the IP from passing fuel on?

Step by step, getting closer.
Great, glad to get the cluster power sorted out.

For priming the IP you should (as others said) connect a mightyvac or similar to the fuel return line (from the IP) and pull fuel through the new filter and into the IP. I have a small electric fuel pump I use for that function (among others) that works very well at priming the system. Once you have the filter filled and pump primed there should be no reason it won't start.

Good luck and there had better be a video of the first starting event!

Steve
 

bblume

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Thanks guys. I feel like I read about priming the pump this way, unfortunately it was many hurdles and moons ago. I'll try this soon!
 

Zed.

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'89 B3 T'die Passat wagon. '95 T4 van (1Z T'die converted). '87 mk2 Golf AHU tdi converted /02a etc. '92 & '95 200tdi Landrover Discovery
I had issues when I tdi'd my T4 van with the dash cluster being dead, again this was a miss-match with power feeds & after comparing looms was sorted, off that the same wiring type has age differences but that's just to keep us on our toes :D
Another annoying one is that earlier cars (my B3 is 1989, not done a golf) have single turn-signal cluster warning lamp & later have 2, early wired direct to fusebox & later as 3 wired plug to under bonnet loom, think fed by side repeaters through wiper motor wiring (atleast here in UK)
Something like that anyway :eek:
Rich.
 

bblume

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Update: I think I'm getting closer to a first start.
Got the in-tank transfer pump working on key power.
Put vacuum on the IP then ran the starter and cracked the lines
To bleed the last bit of air out. Had fuel seepage at each injector
And torqued them down. But after more cranking still no start.
Anyways, getting closer so we shall see what small thing(s)
Are holding her back.
Are there any tell tale tests for the IP?
I got n109 (fuel cutoff) connected to pin 53 correctly
Is there a voltage that should be readable there? Or anywhere else on the
IP. It may be time to run vcds to see if there's anything it can shed lint on.
Also, I have all the lights on the cluster but the CEL?
Fun stuff!!
 

Steve Addy

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Update: I think I'm getting closer to a first start.
Got the in-tank transfer pump working on key power.
Put vacuum on the IP then ran the starter and cracked the lines
To bleed the last bit of air out. Had fuel seepage at each injector
And torqued them down. But after more cranking still no start.
Anyways, getting closer so we shall see what small thing(s)
Are holding her back.
Are there any tell tale tests for the IP?
I got n109 (fuel cutoff) connected to pin 53 correctly
Is there a voltage that should be readable there? Or anywhere else on the
IP. It may be time to run vcds to see if there's anything it can shed lint on.
Also, I have all the lights on the cluster but the CEL?
Fun stuff!!
Hmmm...no CEL with key turned to on position? I'm assuming you have the yellow wire from the harness connected to the single connector leading to the cluster?

Steve
 

bblume

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Couldn't find the yellow wire you're mentioning for the mil
I did find the connection to u1–9 that goes to the instrument cluster harness but if I don't know where that goes to next to the fuse box??
I feel like there's s thread somewhere that addresses this that gtitdi was posted in???


Still no start but I think the issue is in the IP
I connected to vcds and got these codes


I have continuity from n108 and n109 to pins 51 and 53 respectively and the third wire connects to ground with continuity too.
But still have this code thrown? Any way to test these valves themselves??
 

Steve Addy

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Sorry sorry...I was thinking about Mk3 for some reason, you're right, on B4 it comes from engine harness into G1/9 and then out through U1/9 to cluster. Check to make sure the pins are staying put in the connectors.

Steve
 

bblume

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Sorry sorry...I was thinking about Mk3 for some reason, you're right, on B4 it comes from engine harness into G1/9 and then out through U1/9 to cluster. Check to make sure the pins are staying put in the connectors.

Steve
Still working on getting it started. Did some other tests instead of working in the cel issue ...

Thanks again.

Here's what I've got
I'm continuous from pin 53 to the FCS (n109)
When I turn the key it gets 12v but then when cranking fluctuates quite a bit

I'm continuous from n108 to pin 51 but the other wire I'm not sure about. It looks like it heads off to the n18(egr) and then ultimately to pin 25. But I don't have continuity between the n18 and pin 25 nor is there continuity between n108 and n18?

Still no smoke when cranking and I have yet to crack the fuel lines again to see if I'm getting more than a dribble...but fueling is definitely my issue.

I guess the question is, does the FCS need constant 12v and if so what could be causing the lack of constant power. I'm assuming the car should run even with a faultyfuel temp sensor beneath the plate?
 
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