A4 Jetta oil bypass filter install

I've got an Amsoil bypass filter to install in my A4 Jetta.

I looking where to mount it. It looks very convenient behind the oil pan, but Amsoil recommends that the filter be installed (best case) vertically. The closer to perfectly horizontal you get, the more "not recommended" the install becomes.

I can only mount the filter so high, because of the drive shaft to the wheel, and only so low because of the engine cover.

Turbo Steve, HowardZ, any others, do you have any suggestions?

Was your engine cover modified as part of the install?

In a NB there just isn't any place convenient for a vertical installation. Mine is horizontal about 1/2 foot to the rear of the oil pan.

I'll be installing mine this weekend. I spent some time last weekend while doing an oil change to figure out how best to install it.

On the A4 Jetta there is a large, well protected area on the dirver's side between the front bumper and the wheelwell. This is the same space occupied by the intercooler on the passenger side. The vehicle frame is exposed there, providing a really good mounting point. There is plenty enough room to mount the filter vertically. The only other things under there are the horns.

I am going to tee off from the oil pressure sensor at the base of the oil filter cannister for the filter inlet hose. the filter outlet hose will be routed to the oil pan using a special hollowed-out drain plug that Turbo Steve was nice enough to sell to me.

I had originally wanted to route the bypass filtered oil back to the outlet side of the OEM filter but found out later that it would be too difficult and that Amsoil recommended against doing that.

I'll post pics whenever I get the installation completed - hopefully I can get to it this weekend.

Rich

TDIBeliever: I saw that wide open space above the horns also. It looked perfect at first.

I do have a few concerns:
1. Did Amsoil send us enough hose, or will we need to order more?
2. It seemed that higher up in the well, the frame is
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shaped, so installing bolts would be more difficult?
3. Where would we run the hose? Cut more holes in the frame, or run it under the wheel well and back up?

I'd be interested in seeing your setup, or maybe we could do the job together.

I have a hollowed bolt from Turbo Steve too.


[This message has been edited by brian (edited June 01, 2000).]

Brian,

I didn't even notice that you're nearby. We're supposed to have 8 feet of hose in the kit - I think I'll do some measureing tonight just to be sure. If it looks close, I'll go to my local NAPA jobber - they can probably match the hose that Amsoil provided.

How to attach the bolts to the hollow frame is the only thing I haven't worked out yet. I will likely drill straight through both sides of it and use long bolts.

I have a rough idea of where to route the hoses. Both will enter the engine compartment over the frame. I may have to drill two small holes in the plastic splash guard that sits above the frame to accomplish this. The only holes I'm putting in the frame are the ones necessary to mount the filter base.

Turbo Steve - THE SOURCE for hollow drain bolts. Really nice of him to do that.

I wouldn't mind getting together to do the installs this weekend. I have a large garage and an extensive set of tools if you want to drive to Berryville. Saturday morning or Sunday afternoon would work best for me.

Rich

HOLLOW was the word I couldn't think of

Saturday morning is great for me, I'll need to head up to New Jersey or Connecticut on Sunday afternoon.

If you determine that additional hose will be necessary before Saturday, please get *2.

I'll email you for directions.

Looking forward to super clean oil

TDI Believer: Are you going to install a drain cock (e.g. BP67) to sample the oil for oil analysis?

I ordered a BP67 from Amsoil, it was listed on the packing list, but not in the box!

You'll run into trouble installing anything in place of the stock drain plug if it takes up more "room" than the stock plug. The sealing surface on the pan is recessed a bit. I bought one of those groovy brass drain valves, but couldn't install it in my Bug because of the cast alloy pan. You should be able to install some kind of drain valve in the hose down there, though, if you're going with the "hollowed-out drain plug" idea. Just make sure the head size of your hollow plug isn't bigger than stock or it won't fit.

-mickey

Where did you guys get the bypass filter system. I will be changing my oil for the first time and will be interested in getting one. What are the major advantages? Who do i call or to get one? How much is it?

We might as well do the turbo tweak and the MAF screens too as long as we've got the tools out. Saturday morning it is. I'll check the hose length tonight.

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by brian:
Are you going to install a drain cock (e.g. BP67) to sample the oil for oil analysis?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I don't have one of those, but it might be handy for an oil change too. I'm sure Amsoil is just supplying some off-the-shelf petcock valve. I could probably find them at NAPA or Pep Boys. Let me see what I can do.

mickey: TDI Believer and I will find out for sure tomorrow. We have hollowed out drain plugs from Como Industries, where kiki had ones made for the Como bypass setup back in Dec/Jan.

DOCTOR SHUMES: A lot has been said about bypass kits before, so a search may produce good information.

Here's a quick summary: The bypass system is a supplement to the full-flow system already in the car. The bypass system filters oil at about 10% of the rate of the full-flow filter, catching particles 1/10 of a micron (including soot) verses 10 microns for the full-flow filter. The full-flow filter still needs to be changed at 10K miles, but the bypass can go 20K miles or more.

Advantages include:
1. reduced engine wear
2. increased the oil capacity (from 4.5 to 6.5 qts) for potentially cooler and cleaner oil
3. possibility of extended oil drains (20K,30K+) if using appropriate oil and oil analysis

I bought an Amsoil BMK-11 kit. You'll also need the BP-45 oil sending unit VW adapter kit, a BE-90 (or larger) spin-on bypass filter, and if you plan to sample the oil for analysis a BP-67 drain valve is a good idea. Any of the Amsoil dealers on the forum will sell it. The cost is around $120-$150.

The idea is to shunt off the oil supply, not try to run all the oil thru the bypass-filter. Amsoil sends 8 feet of high pressure hose in the kit. You'll need to cut it to length making two pieces, one for oil supply to the filter, one for return.

The supply should come where there is a relatively high pressure of oil. In our cars, its fairly easy to tap into the oil sending unit (left side of the oil filter canister, at the base).

The return should be where there is a relatively low pressure of oil, e.g the drain pan. In our cars, a hollowed our drain plug is convenient.

After we complete the job this weekend, we can report our findings, post pictures, etc.


[This message has been edited by brian (edited June 02, 2000).]

I would add, you want to keep the high pressure hose going to the filter, as short as possible. Allow some slack for the engine to rotate on its mounts. Most of these by-pass kit fittings use standard pipe threads.

2S

Ted, I wasn't going to make the hose longer than necessary, but What's the reasoning for keeping the hose as short as possible?

As it turns out, I think mounting it in front of the driver's side tire near the horns would be about as long as running the hose to above the engine pan. Plus, in front of the driver's side tire, the bypass filter will stand perfectally vertically, the best recommended position.

Mounting it above/near the engine pan almost certainly required the filter to be mounted at a 45 degree angle.

Why it is desirable to mount the filter as vertical as possible? Does more of the filter get used, or does it get used more evenly?

I did some rough measuring last evening and Brian and I will likely need most of the 8' of hose that Amsoil provides with the kit. It is a long way from the center of the engine over to the driver side front fender cavity. Neither Brian or I have the petcock valve for sampling, though it will be a simple matter to add it later on.

The hollow drain plug has a similar head size as the OEM plug and should work very nicely. Turbo Steve has been using this on his Jetta for a while.

I'm going to go and pick up some extra Delvac-1 today just in case I need it. Brian, I don't know what brand of oil you use, but you should probably bring some. At a minimum you'll need a quart or two for the extra capacity you'll be adding. I picked up some long stainless steel bolts, locknuts, and washers for both of us last night.

Rich

For one thing, mounting the filter vertically allows you to fill the filter with oil before installing it.

[This message has been edited by TDI Believer (edited June 02, 2000).]

TDI Believer, I've been getting my Delvac 1 at the Federick Truck Stop. If you get yours there, I can save you the trip. If you get it cheaper elsewhere, please clue me in.