New Owner - What do you wish you would have known?

Hi guys! Just kind of creeping around here.
I bought this 14 Passat on Thursday. Haven't taken it home yet, don't have a garage for it and we had a winter storm come through. Left it at the dealer to be safe. Its a SEL Premium with 40,000 miles. I have to go get a 40k service done on it. Currently awaiting prices from indie shops.

I didnt pay the price on the windshield for it, obviously. It wasn't selling, so I got it for $600 over what they bought it for.


ANYWAYS!

I'm not new to diesels at all. I work with them every day, and the car I owned since 16, my truck, taught me a lot.
But what I'm here for, if you guys could impart some advice on me, stuff you wish you would have known when you bought, what would it be? What should I know?

I look forward to the replies and advice!
Mike

^^^^^^

To sell my VWAG stock......

I follow the advice frequently heard here...

Drive more, worry less!

Rico567 said:

^^^^^^

To sell my VWAG stock......

Click to expand...

Before the scandal? I think now would be a phenomenal time to buy!

1. To know when a regen was happening and to never shut down during one as they will idle at 1350F EGT when in regeneration.
2. never pay anyone for a 40K service, its easy peazy to do. I think the PSD fuel filter is harder than a DSG oil change
3. Use only high quality fuel with either 2% bio or another additive as the HPFP doesn't put up with inferior fuel at all. its a instant 3-4k when they explode
4. buy a VCDS cable, they are by far the best investment ever.
5. Drive softly on a cold engine as they warm up via fireing a injector on the exhaust stroke thus giving the ice cold turbo some 1200F heat - no way to monitor turbo shaft RPM but during this warm up phase it spins twice as fast as "normal full boost" and spinning that fast on thick cold oil is one of the many thoughts of this> http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?t=360617

Hopefully you paid at least 10k less than that windshield price!

My only regret is this scandal mess and me not being able to get rid of the car on my terms. Can't wait for the mess to be over.


Get a Scan gauge to monitor regens. And as others have mentioned drive it very easy when it is cold and let it warm up before you really get into it.

If he is a new user he may not understand what a regen is and why the car is doing it. I will let the experts in the forum explain it. If you shut the car off during a regen, the fans will run at full speed for a long period of time (this is normal).

The 40k mile service is expensive, if you don't want to do the service yourself, negotiate up front with your service center.

The last thing is the first thing you done... keep an eye on this forum.

jrm said:

1. To know when a regen was happening and to never shut down during one as they will idle at 1350F EGT when in regeneration.
2. never pay anyone for a 40K service, its easy peazy to do. I think the PSD fuel filter is harder than a DSG oil change
3. Use only high quality fuel with either 2% bio or another additive as the HPFP doesn't put up with inferior fuel at all. its a instant 3-4k when they explode
4. buy a VCDS cable, they are by far the best investment ever.
5. Drive softly on a cold engine as they warm up via fireing a injector on the exhaust stroke thus giving the ice cold turbo some 1200F heat - no way to monitor turbo shaft RPM but during this warm up phase it spins twice as fast as "normal full boost" and spinning that fast on thick cold oil is one of the many thoughts of this> http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?t=360617

Click to expand...

The only reason I'm wanting a shop to do it, is so I can keep the balance of my factory warranty. I haven't read through.the warranty agreement, but I'm sure it has a clause that the services must be performed by a qualified mechanic (ASE?). I am a full time mechanic, but not ASE certified, as my industry does not require it.
I do have a scan tool that I've used on my PSD to perform injector buzz tests, etc, so it's not a bottom of the line scanner. I have tried communicating with a 13, but the engine portion made it freeze. The VCDS cable, is this merely an interface adaptor for use wth PC based software?

AtlantaRene said:

If he is a new user he may not understand what a regen is and why the car is doing it. I will let the experts in the forum explain it. If you shut the car off during a regen, the fans will run at full speed for a long period of time (this is normal).

The 40k mile service is expensive, if you don't want to do the service yourself, negotiate up front with your service center.

The last thing is the first thing you done... keep an eye on this forum.

Click to expand...

I am very well versed on aftertreatment technologies through the course of my work. DEF, DPF, DOC, SCR, AOC, EGR, etc. I have to have a thorough understanding all the emissions related components.
Our equipment has an indicator on the operators screen that lets the operator know the "Exhaust Temperature is High" this is accompanied by an increase in idle speed and fan speed running at 100%.
What indicators does the TDI have that it is in a regen?

ChadS99SVT said:

Hopefully you paid at least 10k less than that windshield price!

My only regret is this scandal mess and me not being able to get rid of the car on my terms. Can't wait for the mess to be over.


Get a Scan gauge to monitor regens. And as others have mentioned drive it very easy when it is cold and let it warm up before you really get into it.

Click to expand...

I paid $18,900. It was WELL below market of all of the other passat of the same body and mileage. Seems like Colorado people don't care about the scandal lol. I went an looked at a 13 with 66,000 miles and they wanted $18,000 and would NOT negotiate lower. I offered 18,500 out the door and they said "thank you but no. Good bye" and didn't even attempt to negotiate.
I think that goes with any diesel engine. Diesel + cold = bad. But from what I hear, the warmup cycle is much too agressive, but there is a software update for something I have to get done, I wonder if that's the update for it.

Powersmokin said:

The only reason I'm wanting a shop to do it, is so I can keep the balance of my factory warranty. I haven't read through.the warranty agreement, but I'm sure it has a clause that the services must be performed by a qualified mechanic (ASE?). I am a full time mechanic, but not ASE certified, as my industry does not require it.?

Click to expand...

Not sure what specific warranty you are talking about ( factory or extended) but it was my understanding that it's illegal to require warranty service be by a certain provider, and that a competent owner has the right to do the work themselves.

People here will be happy to tell you that you paid too much. It's part of the internet. Sounds like you know enough to realize that your experience with the Powerstroke isn't very helpful when comparing it to a modern passenger car diesel. Driving style, fuel requirements, additives, lubricants, maintenance...all different. But as you noted, this isn't your first rodeo. Just be aware that they're different.

One thing I will reinforce is the need to drive gently during warmup. The Passat has a smaller turbo than the Jetta/Golf with the same engine block, most likely to provide more power at low revs in a heavier car. But that turbo works harder, and harder still at your altitudes. I haven't heard of a lot of altitude related turbo failures in Passats, but I'd be careful during warmups. And I'd probably get an EGT or Scan Gauge to watch temps when climbing. Others have noticed that coolant temps rise when climbing long grades in the Passat, and that it has a variable temp thermostat. So be aware of that, too.

Itzed said:

Not sure what specific warranty you are talking about ( factory or extended) but it was my understanding that it's illegal to require warranty service be by a certain provider, and that a competent owner has the right to do the work themselves.

Click to expand...

Its the factory powertrain. I will check the manual and see if there are warranty requirements.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

People here will be happy to tell you that you paid too much. It's part of the internet. Sounds like you know enough to realize that your experience with the Powerstroke isn't very helpful when comparing it to a modern passenger car diesel. Driving style, fuel requirements, additives, lubricants, maintenance...all different. But as you noted, this isn't your first rodeo. Just be aware that they're different.

One thing I will reinforce is the need to drive gently during warmup. The Passat has a smaller turbo than the Jetta/Golf with the same engine block, most likely to provide more power at low revs in a heavier car. But that turbo works harder, and harder still at your altitudes. I haven't heard of a lot of altitude related turbo failures in Passats, but I'd be careful during warmups. And I'd probably get an EGT or Scan Gauge to watch temps when climbing. Others have noticed that coolant temps rise when climbing long grades in the Passat, and that it has a variable temp thermostat. So be aware of that, too.

Click to expand...

What are people using to monitor EGTs? Is there a factory manfold thermocouple? I have seen people on the PSDs use Torque app to monitor ECU inputs. I REALLY don't want to put a pyrometer in the car. I bought it to be a comfortable cruiser, and leave it factory.

the tach will monitor them perfectly, idle jumps to 950 when in regen

VCDS allows you to write to the ECM, completely modifying stock programing in ways no other auto manufacture allows:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vcds-central-electric-tweaks-and-modifications-nms-passat/

My vcds tweaks:
1. fogs on with hi beam
2. hazards during abs
3. 13v to headlights
4. auto wipers
5. Windows up sunroof auto close during rain when parked
6. seatbelt warnings OFF

The turbo has an EGT probe. You can read EGTs with a Torque App, Scan Gauge, or the P3Cars gauge that goes in the driver's side vent. I had a P3Cars gauge in my Golf for a while but honestly I find digital gauges irritating. More info than I care for. I have analog boost and EGT gauges in my wagon that don't bother me at all.

That VCDS (same as VAG-COM?) does look intriguing but I think II saw a $475 price tag associated with it. I will be purchasing it ecentually, as electronic interface adaptors are as essential as a screwdriver on new cars.

Indigo, the reason I ask is that some thermocouples are in the manifold, and some are in the down pipe. Post turbo temperatures are re completely useless as the temp drop across the turbo is significant, and not a real indicator of combustion temperatures.
I will see what peaks my interest when the power train warranty is up!

Nope, $249 (CANbus only) or $349 for CANbus plus K-Line. You could pay $449 for the wireless, but it doesn't do anything the others won't . . .

- Tim

I have almost an identical 2012 SE i bought last september one week before all the drama for more money than you paid, with the same mileage. You got it for a good price, and i find these cars striking in white.

Its been a great car. The only thing ive had trouble getting used to are the DSG predictive downshifts, which always cause me to brake too hard. Apart from that learning curve, these are refined, pleasant roomy cars.

Personally i would have held out for a manual, but its the wifes and she loves the DSG so its been a good choice.

jrm said:

1. To know when a regen was happening and to never shut down during one as they will idle at 1350F EGT when in regeneration.
2. never pay anyone for a 40K service, its easy peazy to do. I think the PSD fuel filter is harder than a DSG oil change
3. Use only high quality fuel with either 2% bio or another additive as the HPFP doesn't put up with inferior fuel at all. its a instant 3-4k when they explode
4. buy a VCDS cable, they are by far the best investment ever.
5. Drive softly on a cold engine as they warm up via fireing a injector on the exhaust stroke thus giving the ice cold turbo some 1200F heat - no way to monitor turbo shaft RPM but during this warm up phase it spins twice as fast as "normal full boost" and spinning that fast on thick cold oil is one of the many thoughts of this> http://65.110.12.166/showthread.php?t=360617

Click to expand...

I agree completely with your #s 2,4, and 5. Personally, I am NOT going to drive any car where I have to worry about something like #1. As far as #3 is concerned, I also use an additive (Opti-Lube), but there are plenty of other people on this forum who say they don't, an evidently suffer no ill effects. It's the one case where I buy "peace of mind," and it sure can't hurt.

Note 1: There are posts cropping up regularly in this forum by people who don't understand the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. This is a federal law that says, among other things, that the consumer is not tied to the manufacturer for warranty purposes. As a corollary, doing the specified maintenance by whatever means is considered to be fulfilling the conditions of the warranty, anything said by Mr. Goodwrench to the contrary notwithstanding.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

Note 2: Re: Note 1 above, document, document, document. Save the receipts from the materials you bought if you DIY'd it, and write in a log or blank pages of the manual the specific maintenance you performed, mileage and date. (Really, this should be done even if one is off warranty.) If you had it done at an indy, save that receipt. Even though it may seem sketchy, your own saved receipts and notes are admissible as evidence.

Powersmokin said:

That VCDS (same as VAG-COM?) does look intriguing but I think II saw a $475 price tag associated with it. I will be purchasing it ecentually, as electronic interface adaptors are as essential as a screwdriver on new cars.

<snip>

Click to expand...

I agree. With our older car, I never would have even considered it, but now that I am off the included maintenance on our Passat, I bought a used HEX-NET (wireless) version of VCDS. As has been stated earlier in this thread, it won't do anything more than the cabled versions will. I bought it because there is a convenience factor (it can be used via an app with phones and tablets, both iOS and Android), and being a Mac household, I don't want to be tied to a Windows laptop. I'm pleased with the results, but anyone considering the HEX-NET should investigate it thoroughly before purchase. A degree of familiarity with Internet configuration and wi-fi operations is extremely helpful in operating this device.

Powersmokin said:

Our equipment has an indicator on the operators screen that lets the operator know the "Exhaust Temperature is High" this is accompanied by an increase in idle speed and fan speed running at 100%. What indicators does the TDI have that it is in a regen?

Click to expand...

First - nice car! Looks like a clone of mine! Your price was pretty good. I picked up my 2014 SEL with 20K miles for $19,887 in January 2016.

Second - Unfortunely the Passat as it comes does not have any indicators one is in a regen. A good method to monitor for regens other than what was already suggested is the Polar FIS+ which can monitor up to 40 items in the Passat's MFD in addition to what the MFD shows from the factory - see this thread for more info:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=414187

I installed a Polar FIS+ in mine and am very satisfied with it!

Powersmokin said:

I do have a scan tool that I've used on my PSD to perform injector buzz tests, etc, so it's not a bottom of the line scanner. I have tried communicating with a 13, but the engine portion made it freeze. The VCDS cable, is this merely an interface adaptor for use wth PC based software?

Click to expand...

Yes, VCDS is the interface adapter that is used with PC software. However, it can do far more than any scan tool, and (as others have noted) can change multiple settings throughout the car's electronics. For myself, I've set it so the radio stays on until the driver's door is opened after turning the car off, disabled the seat belt chime, and tweaked the MFD to be more accurate in its mileage display. I actually went a hair too far, as now it's slightly lower than actual.

And no, the car has no warning light or other indicator that a regen is taking place. As some have said, the idle is higher than normal, but of course the only way to notice that is after you park. Personally, I would prefer to have something to tell me, even if I'm moving, so I could make a decision to not stop and park if time permits. Once I've reached my parking space, I may not have the time to wait for the regen to quit. I suppose I should just buy a scan gauge but I hate adding something to the dash that wasn't designed in. And I don't have an Android phone, so the Torque app is out as well.

I got my wife pretty well trained as she can here the fans roaring as she comes up the driveway. We have a hill just before the turnoff to home that always triggers a regen as the pressure differences show up during 3/4 throttle. A simple shutdown and immediate restart cancels the regen and everything cools down in a couple minutes of idle. We are at 60K of the 120K turbo warranty that also means im half way to a full delete

Other few things:

1- Alignment. I drove a car not properly aligned from the dealership because there was a discussion about it "being normal". I also checked in one alignment shop and I was told was fine. I finally aligned it in a different shop (NTB, I-45 North, in Houston), now is much better.

2-Smelly sunroof. When wet it can get smelly if you don't clean it properly, or let it dry just after getting wet. Check this thread:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=426928&highlight=sunroof+odor

Check the forum for future surprises: urea tank heater failure, or heater core plugging. I had to replace the Urea tank at 50k miles, did it myself following the thread, and it was not difficult.

With this, and what has been posted before, I think I have my list of "what should I have known". I have enjoyed the car so far, and plan to enjoy it for 150k miles or more.

jrm said:

VCDS allows you to write to the ECM, completely modifying stock programing in ways no other auto manufacture allows:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vcds-central-electric-tweaks-and-modifications-nms-passat/

My vcds tweaks:
1. fogs on with hi beam
2. hazards during abs
3. 13v to headlights
4. auto wipers
5. Windows up sunroof auto close during rain when parked
6. seatbelt warnings OFF

Click to expand...

...numbers 4 and 5 not available on 2014s.. requires rain sensor, located in the "box" at the base of the rearview mirror.

whoops I forgot about that, I do remember they started deleting that sensor in late 13 model years.

atc98002 said:

And no, the car has no warning light or other indicator that a regen is taking place. As some have said, the idle is higher than normal, but of course the only way to notice that is after you park. Personally, I would prefer to have something to tell me, even if I'm moving, so I could make a decision to not stop and park if time permits. Once I've reached my parking space, I may not have the time to wait for the regen to quit. I suppose I should just buy a scan gauge but I hate adding something to the dash that wasn't designed in. And I don't have an Android phone, so the Torque app is out as well.

Click to expand...

In the post previous to yours I mentioned the Polar FIS+ as an option to monitor regens. The beauty of the Polar FIS+ is that it uses the factory MFD so looks to be 100% factory which meets your criteria to appear "designed in" - see this thread for more info:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=414187

251 said:

In the post previous to yours I mentioned the Polar FIS+ as an option to monitor regens. The beauty of the Polar FIS+ is that it uses the factory MFD so looks to be 100% factory which meets your criteria to appear "designed in" - see this thread for more info:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=414187

Click to expand...

You're right. I forgot the Polar could display in the MFD. May need to lok at that again. Thanks!

Well folks, picked her up last night and drover her about 75 miles in the first day. Drives great, although lacking in power anywhere over 2200rpm
Its not an exciting car by any means, but it drives nicely and the display (MFD? what does that stand for?) says im averaging 45mpg, which is much better than the 13.5 my truck got.

Rico567 said:

I agree completely with your #s 2,4, and 5. Personally, I am NOT going to drive any car where I have to worry about something like #1. As far as #3 is concerned, I also use an additive (Opti-Lube), but there are plenty of other people on this forum who say they don't, an evidently suffer no ill effects. It's the one case where I buy "peace of mind," and it sure can't hurt.

Note 1: There are posts cropping up regularly in this forum by people who don't understand the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act. This is a federal law that says, among other things, that the consumer is not tied to the manufacturer for warranty purposes. As a corollary, doing the specified maintenance by whatever means is considered to be fulfilling the conditions of the warranty, anything said by Mr. Goodwrench to the contrary notwithstanding.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

Note 2: Re: Note 1 above, document, document, document. Save the receipts from the materials you bought if you DIY'd it, and write in a log or blank pages of the manual the specific maintenance you performed, mileage and date. (Really, this should be done even if one is off warranty.) If you had it done at an indy, save that receipt. Even though it may seem sketchy, your own saved receipts and notes are admissible as evidence.

Click to expand...

Rico, I was aware of the Magnuson-Moss act, but I wasnt sure if it pertained to owners performing PM services. I will check into that.

c-wagen said:

Other few things:

1- Alignment. I drove a car not properly aligned from the dealership because there was a discussion about it "being normal". I also checked in one alignment shop and I was told was fine. I finally aligned it in a different shop (NTB, I-45 North, in Houston), now is much better.

2-Smelly sunroof. When wet it can get smelly if you don't clean it properly, or let it dry just after getting wet. Check this thread:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=426928&highlight=sunroof+odor

Check the forum for future surprises: urea tank heater failure, or heater core plugging. I had to replace the Urea tank at 50k miles, did it myself following the thread, and it was not difficult.

With this, and what has been posted before, I think I have my list of "what should I have known". I have enjoyed the car so far, and plan to enjoy it for 150k miles or more.

Click to expand...

Mine does pull, ever so slightly to the right, however if I'm on the "left" side of the crown it drives straight. I'll see about getting this checked out.

Powersmokin said:

Well folks, picked her up last night and drove her about 75 miles in the first day.

Its not an exciting car by any means, but it drives nicely and the display (MFD? what does that stand for?) says im averaging 45mpg, which is much better than the 13.5 my truck got.

Click to expand...

MFD = Multi Function Display - which is the screen in the instrument cluster between the tachometer and speedometer that tells you fuel consumption, time, etc.