ALH How to adjust injection timing

I am still unclear about the exact steps necessary to do the mechanical injection timing adjustment (ALH, 2002 Automatic GOlf TDI) after reading the TB-FAQ and many posts.

Lets assume I use the Vag-Com timing procedure from page 110(=118in pdf) of the TB-FAQ:
Are a) and b) the only steps needed before continuing on page 110/118?
a) Turn off engine. Remove intake hose from EGR to intake manifold
b) Remove timing belt cover
c) Anything else?
d) Loosen 3 bolts rotate IJ pump forward or backward a few degrees
e) Re-tighten bolts with correct torque (18Ft-lbs/24Nm for non-stretch type)
f) Reinstall TB cover ?
g) Reinstall hose?
h) Start engine, check timing
i) Go back to a) if not right?

- It seems there is very little space to get to the 3 bolts and get the torque wrench in. Any recommendations for which tool to get?
- Can I quickly start the engine and test the timing without timing belt cover on?
- Without intake hose connected I assume would be bad because engine would get unfiltered air?

Thanks a lot for any comments. As you can see this is the first time I am trying this.
Looking forward to bumping up my 110C value from 38 to 70. Hopefully will improve my 32 MPG (highway) somewhat because even for an automatic I should be able to do better.

dieselvergnuegen said:

- It seems there is very little space to get to the 3 bolts and get the torque wrench in. Any recommendations for which tool to get?

Click to expand...

Your procedure is basically correct. Once that intake hose and upper timing belt cover are out of the way, there's enough room to make the changes. Just about anyone's torque wrench will work - I have never seen any that won't work there. Just make sure it is accurate.

dieselvergnuegen said:

- Can I quickly start the engine and test the timing without timing belt cover on?

Click to expand...

Yes! It is really a good idea, too, in that it will let you know if the timing belt wants to wander off where it should not.

dieselvergnuegen said:

- Without intake hose connected I assume would be bad because engine would get unfiltered air?

Click to expand...

Yes! Very bad. The ECU wouldn't like the signals coming from the MAF either, and it might make it impossible to properly time the engine. But, it isn't difficult to replace that hose with the band clamps and a band clamp pliers tool.

The only other comment I would make is that you want to move the pulley very little compared to the center bolt. Figure on moving it about half of what you think it might need, then actually moving it half of that.

The last time I changed a belt, it took me 4 tries to get it right. This was on the mechanical set up before starting it the first time. OTOH, I've done 8 timing belts, and every one of them started up the first try. The electronic adjustments afterward (what you are doing) sometimes is difficult to get right, and may take many tries also.

Powder Hound said:

The only other comment I would make is that you want to move the pulley very little compared to the center bolt.

Click to expand...

You really meant "you want to move the center bolt very little compared to the pulley"... The engine being stopped won't permit the pulley to move... the adjustment is just about always made on the center nut (pump shaft)...

BTW: since the pump shaft has a sprung load on it, the original poster should be prepared for the center bolt to want to "run away" from him as soon as the 3rd pulley bolt is loosened... so... keep a 22 MM wrench on it - and hold on to it as you loosen the 3rd pulley bolt...

(Also a reminder: the timing needs to be checked in Vag-Com in BASIC settings...)

All the best,

Yuri.

Yes, I am resurrecting a 6 year old thread...

I did my timing belt last Saturday and the car started just fine. Checked the timing with VCDS and is was Too Retarded to graph. I messed with it the next day and adjusted the IP pulley. It took me three tries. I got the timing set and it's Slightly Advanced but running good. Car was smoky but pretty responsive. I don't like heavy smoke - I like better mileage. Yesterday I made an IQ adjustment from 2.6/2.8 to about 3.8/4.0 . Now my car is using more fuel (as far as I can tell - I know my car) but is less smoky.

Should I go back to adjusting the pulley so that my timing graph reads right on target? Not retarded or advanced. It was dead on before I did my timing belt job.

This was my third time doing a tb job so I'm comfortable with it being done right. However, this is the first time I've had timing issues like this.

Any input on where to have my IQ set at?

I know there is a ton of threads and info on this here but it is hard to find more facts than opinion. I just need some hard guidelines to follow on this.

Thanks!

I was having slow down shudder on both my Golfs (no ECU mods, .205 nozzles on the 4-dr, otherwise both stock) and setting the IQ to 2.8 worked well for me.

Slightly advanced on the mechanical timing should be just fine. The ECU will move it to what it wants anyway, so if you are pretty close then don't worry.

For smoke concerns, how does the intake manifold look? Restrictions due to black goop buildup can cause sooty exhaust.

I cleaned out the intake about 2 years ago and peek inside the race pipe on occasion. It's not all nasty or coked up. I also give it a little "tune up" about once per week and it blows the snot berries out. That's about as smoky as it's ever gotten. After tb change has been a different story regarding smoke.

A friend mentioned the possibility of being off a tooth on the IP sprocket. I don't buy that one - would the car start? would it run fine? I'd be able to tell if I were off a tooth wouldn't I?

You can be a tooth off on the IP sprocket but the timing still good when checked with VCDS. You will have the bolts on (or close to) one end of the adjustment instead of being on the middle. Still the car will run OK if VCDS shows good timing.

I'll have to double check that but it's possible that I'm not in the middle of the slot adjustment on the pulley.

If this is the case - Best procedure to fix is what?

1. Lock down the cam again.
2. Loosen the tensioner.
3. Rotate the IP one tooth
-or-
3. Lock the IP with the pin
4. Loosen the pulley and rotate

How can it be off a tooth but still run fine? And it runs fine - but is sucking fuel. I think I've lost 10-15% in FE. It's a gut estimate but I know my car.

I'm so glad that this is the last tb I'll ever do. After this is sorted out I'll be selling my tools. I don't do the job enough to be efficient and don't have the time to either.

Doesn't matter provided the static timing (pin goes in with the cam/crank at TDC) and dynamic timing (as shown in the VCDS graph) is ok. Where the slots are on the bolts is immaterial; it just means you're out of adjustment range should you want to move it.

I'm off one tooth on the IP sprocket since replacing my IP and didn't figure it out until I got the timing where it had to be, and I'm CERTAINLY not going to tear the timing components apart again to change it, as it has zero operational impact. Next time I change the belt I'll take care of it -- in another 50,000 miles or so!

@Genesis
I agree with your statement.

Follow me on this thought though - In theory if I were to slide the belt off, move the IP (sprocket still tightened to the shaft) one tooth and slide the belt right back on - wouldn't the static timing be so far retarded or advanced that even starting the engine would be an issue?
By the way, I know that "sliding" the belt on and off isn't possible like I described. I'm just trying to illustrate a point.

Maybe I should place the cam lock in and double check that the pin slides back in to the IP. When I was taking off the old belt I had to rotate the IP pulley a little to get the pin in - it was a tight fit.

Yes; the car might not even start. That's a fairly large deviation (one tooth off) on the IP.

The reason it happens is that when you replace the belt you're supposed to have to the bolts LOOSE so you don't pre-load the belt. It's very easy to be off by one on the IP sprocket and that's ok as you can usually get the timing in the zone with it off by one, but you won't have much (if any!) adjustment range left in that direction.

I've done it and in fact my car is off by one on the IP sprocket right now. To fix it you have to loosen the tensioner, relieve the tension and you SHOULD not only lock the cam and crank but also pop the cam sprocket loose -- the reason is the same one you did it in the first place, you do NOT want to pre-load the belt's teeth or you may cause it to fail early.

If you're going to correct it do it right -- lock the cam and crank (which means pulling the vacuum pump) along with pinning the IP, relieve the tensioner and then pop the cam sprocket loose. Then fix the off-by-one and go through making sure you have everything lined up, set the tensioner, then torque the cam sprocket and tighten the IP bolts. Then start up, check the timing and adjust as required.

Unless you can't get the IP timing where you want it I see no reason to do anything about this.

The only issue I'm really having is that my fuel economy has dropped. I know my timing according to VCDS graph was dead on with the old belt. Now its slightly advanced but started out with it being very retarded. I've adjusted my IQ but I'd just rather have it where it all was. I can't live with a 10% drop in mpg.

IIRC, my sprocket was never in the middle of the slot with the bolts. It's always been listed to one side. I never thought it was a big deal.

I follow your logic here and appreciate the feedback. I'm planning to mess around later on after work and see if I can get this thing back to where it belongs. I hate the feeling that I might have messed up my own car...

...nate

Check and make sure that your valve and TDC timing are SPOT ON (mechanically.)

In addition, check the intake manifold for clogging (which you said you did already) and make sure you don't have a vacuum problem somewhere. A clogged intake can also cause very significant mileage issues. Vacuum problems are easy to cause accidentally while you have things apart (or if you have old lines that are prone to cracking) and they'll get you as well.

The IP sprocket being off one tooth on the IP will not cause a mileage problem so long as the static and dynamic timing are correct. It will simply cause the bolts to be at one end of the slots instead of in the middle.

I spent some time over the weekend getting the mechanical timing Spot On. It took me at least 8 tries to get it to read "Dead On" with VCDS. The last adjustment was very very miniscule but I finally got it.

Is it odd that whenever I've taken readings for timing the Fuel Temp was nearly always around 110 but now whenever I check stuff out the Fuel Temp is around 135. Is a difference of running the car up to temp from cold and checking -or- checking stuff out after driving home from work which is a 50 min drive of 35 miles.

I made an IQ adjustment from 4.0mg/str to 3.0 and I think I'm back to where I should be in regards to FE. Time will tell though... (nice pun, eh?)

I am tempted to lower the IQ setting just a little bit more to see if there is a bit more improvement to be had.

IP sprocket is not off a tooth - I have range in both directions for adjustment. Intake is clear. Vacuum lines are new. And the FE drop came directly after I swapped out my timing belt.
My next issue is what I believe to be a bad/worn turbo actuator. I put a mity-vac on it yesterday and cannot get it to hold vacuum. I moves at around 5psi and I have to keep pumping to get it to 15-20 and then it just drops.

Replace the acutator.

Mine (and all the working ones I've seen) will start moving around ~4-5in of vacuum and are fully-pulled-in around ~15-20in, but will hold there indefinitely.

If yours is leaking then it definitely will impact the ability of the ECU to direct the airflow as it wishes, and that in turn will have a negative impact on fuel economy.

I'll be replacing it within the month then. I have some regular maintenance to take care of anyways.

New actuator means making adjustments yes? Is it difficult? I guess I'll be pouring through tdiclub info to find out how to get this taken care of.

I have a 03 Jetta with ALH engine/auto. Did the timing belt myself. Used a local VCDS. I've got about 35k on the new belt but my mileage dropped 5 mpg in the city, from 35 mpg to about 30 mpg just after the change. I've since purchase a real VCDS. I checked the injection timing and notice it seems to be off almost 3 degrees. It calls for 1.5 ATDC and I'm running 1.5-1.8 BTDC. I've also noticed a wondering of the EGR and MAF, with a noticeable change in tone but RPM stays solid at 903 RPM. I need my mileage back. I appreciate any help.

Check your intake. If it's clogged you could easily lose 5mpg from that, but do also get the injection timing correct.

It was a mostly clogged before I completely cleaned it out when I replaced the turbo just after my timing belt. It was spotless when I reinstalled it. From what I was reading in the FAQ's, my settings for timing seem to be normal. Car runs great, starts easily. Maybe the reduced diameter helped with the mpg.

The only way to know where your injection timing actually is requires that you warm the engine up and then use the timing graph in VCDS. Make sure you select the correct engine type.

It's the "dot of truth", and it will tell you where you are.

I generally want to be in the upper half of the range -- above the midline but below the top line. It's kind of fiddly to get bang-on where you want it, but it can be done and is worth the trouble.

Any ideas on how to get a freely spinning bolt outta the pump/pulley? I've tried using a screw driver to pry it out while turning it. Short story even shorter: it didn't work. I was thinking about super glueing it to the socket but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough.