What clutch rebuild kit to get? Tools?

04 tdi Jetta with 307,000 km

Just had it tuned recently for better mileage and to get rid of egr delete engine light.

The tunes added power is now making the clutch slowlyyyyy slip.

What’s the most economical rebuild kit for this and is it really that hard to do yourself? I’ve been rebuilding clutches in 4 stroke race dirtbikes for years so kind of know what I’m doing. Any special tools or tricks needed?

When you say rebuilding you clutch are you saying re-lining the friction disk and replacing the springs? The stock is dual mass and the parts holding the masses together fail. Not a good result so you want to go to a single mass with better materials. Just get the south bend stage 2 endurance and you will be set for the life of your car. Swapping is about a day of your work but doesn't really require anything special. Plenty of how too threads on how to do them.

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buy SBC stage 2 street enduro clutch or your preferred clutch based on your max Torque output planned.
standard set of sockets and a prybar, and whatever tools you need based on the write up your following, i suggest myturbodiesel DIY guide.
Make sure you use a torque wrech, red locktight on your flywheel and clutch bolts ect... and you may also want to upgrade your fork as a heavier clutch can bend the stock one.

Awesome guys. Thanks for the answer. Seems like an easy job.

Not sure what I mean by rebuilding. It’s slipping. So I’m gonna replace everything. This stuff is dirt cheap compared to the dirt bike and lifted diesel truck world so I won’t cheap out. I’ll get the upgraded fork and stage 2 everything. Just not too sure EXACTLY what parts I need and don’t need.

You are going to want to get a tool that locks the flywheel while you torque the bolts. Something like this:

https://www.idparts.com/flywheel-lock-tool-p-4385.html

so single mass... something like this: https://www.idparts.com/complete-clutch-conversion-kit-a4-p-3860.html


the SBC is double the price (https://www.idparts.com/sbc-stage-endurance-clutch-kit-wsmf-p-863.html) and I just cant justify it on a $3000 car with a $1000 timing belt job just around the corner too. if the stock clutch lasted 300,000, then im sure another stock, or tad stronger, clutch would last me long enough.

Ok clutch is in. Cost $500 labor. Feels good. Few questions though

1. The clutch doesn’t engage till the pedal is at the floor, and when releasing it, the clutch is instant. Is that normal?

2. Does the clutch need to be broken in?

3. Here is pics of the old clutch. One of these fingers is broken. Why and where would it go?

That missing finger is normal.

The clutch needs to be bled to get the air out. Supposed to release fairly quickly and use the full range of motion.

When I put my new clutch in, it was recommended to go low boost on it for the first 1000 kms.

Mine definitely doesn’t use the full range. Only the first inch or two off the floor. The rest does nothing. Feels good though and doesn’t slip.

Low boost for the first bit ain’t happening. I’ve already tested it and done a few short hard runs up a short hill. Oops. I’ll be easier on it.

As mentioned, bleed the slave line until the air comes out

Ok. I’m away from home right now but will bring it back to mechanic when I’m home in two days.

I notice at idle it rattles and makes a weird sound till I push the pedal in. What’s with that?


https://youtu.be/E1zkREpua_A

Did you get a "lightened" flywheel? If so the rattle is expected. As stated above bleed the clutch slave, it should not disengage/engage that low.


Side note, I have the timing belt tools here in Airdrie, If you want to borrow them and or bring your car up here to change the timing belt, it'll save you a few $$.

LUK 17-050 DMF would hold a tune just fine, is quiet, smooth, low pedal effort, and much less expensive than most SMF options... installed dozens of these, even on cars with injectors, tunes, and turbo without issue... as for the low pedal issue it could be air in the system or a worn clutch arm pivot ball

Pretty sure I got the vr6 single mass flywheel

This kit includes:

SMF Conversion Clutch Kit w/ Pressure Plate & Single-Mass Flywheel
High Quality throwout bearing
Clutch Release Lever/Fork
Clutch Release Lever Clip
Clutch Release Lever Ball Pin Pivot
Full set of 12 Inner CV Joint/Axle Bolts
Clutch Installation Bolt Set for Transmission Mount
Clutch Alignment Tool
Clutch Options


*NEW* IDParts VR6 SMF Clutch & Flywheel - Great for tuned or tune+nozzle upgraded TDIs, more holding power than our Quiet clutch but with very little increase in rattle when in neutral. Light pedal with easy linear engagement.



And I’m due for another timing belt soon. (Ugh). I may contact you regarding that this summer. Thanks!!


Is bleeding the clutch slave something me and the gf can do in the parking lot with basic tools or should I just bring it back to the mechanic if for a day?

Yes, you can bleed the slave in the lot. Pressure bleeder makes it real easy.
Especially if it hasn't been done recently (2 years), I would recommend flush and fill the whole hydraulic system, about 2L. Much easier to do that with a lift, not a parking lot job.

Awesome. Thanks for the help. Clutch seems to feel better today?

Taking off from a dead start. It likes to disengage quite close to the floor. But while driving and shifting gears. It seems to engage nicely and consistently in the middle. I think I’m just being paranoid and my trust issues are showing too. Going to haul a 600lb trailer 1000 miles next Friday so hopefully it holds.

Sounds like you have air that's expanding in the line and taking up the slack. Definitely need to bleed.

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