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Old September 5th, 2009, 12:37   #1
4GenTex
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Question 2004 Jetta Oil Pan Removal tools?

I can't get the rachet on the 2 freakin' screws located on the driver side. I read here to use a 1/4 inch drive wobble Ext. bar + 10mm socket. I still can not get it on the nut!

The wobble bar I bought is 1.5 inches.

Can someone tell me the exact tool I need to get those 2 freakin' screws off?
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Old September 5th, 2009, 12:52   #2
Sip'n Diesel
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longer extension?
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Old September 5th, 2009, 22:55   #3
4GenTex
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I read something about a mythical long 5 mm allen wrench with a swivel...

Where do I buy this mythical tool to get off the oil pan?
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Old September 6th, 2009, 01:55   #4
brumbar
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Default The tool you need

You may order tools for this job from Snap-on or Matco Tools (expensive, but you get what you pay for), cheaper version is:

Part MNQ6H5 - Wobble Oil Pan Bit

http://www.metalnerd.com/cat05.htm


http://www.metalnerd.com/downloads/MNQ6H5cat05.pdf

It cost $12 + shipping.
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Old October 17th, 2011, 18:42   #5
winvavw
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Default Oil pan experience….

I spent about half a day trying to remove the oil pan from my 04 Jetta TDI. I got started down this road when I was changing my oil and the drain plug would not tighten up and secure back into the drain hole. Being a steel drain plug bolt (with thread shavings wrapped near the permanent washer) and a aluminum oil pan casing my conclusion was that the drain plug was stripped…. I proceeded to look up all of the web related info and my Chilton book on replacing the oil pan on my 04 jetta and set out on this little journey.
I had ready tool wise:

3/8" metric set - 10mm socket, 19 mm socket, universal joint(swivel joint)
torque wrench
5mm wobble hex wrench
rubber mallet
Large screw driver to help pry pan

After getting back under my jetta and looking things over again I notice that the 3 bolts that attach to the oil pan to the bellhousing were really different from anything that I saw on the web or book. After taking a closer look and a pic with my iPhone I determined that it was a torx head, T55. Once I made the run to Sears and got the T55 socket driver I felt ready to move on. 18 of the 20 10mm (w/5mm wobble) bolts broke free and were removed without any issues…. the two 10mm(w/5mm wobble) that were that are at an odd angle near the Bell housing were a pain in the butt. My 5mm wobble could not get a good fit at any angle…. I was able to break free the two 10mm bolts with the 10mm socket and then unscrew the bolts as far as I could with out being able to fully remove them from their holes. I figured that I would then have to remove the 3 T55 horizontal bell housing bolts,free up the oil pan loose before the two 10mm bolts could be fully removed...…. yeah… that is where my journey to replace my oil pan eventually ended. I was able to remove one T55 bolt but the two others would not budge. The T55 driver that I had had a hard time getting a good fit (dirt and residue may have hindered the fit) but the angle for the T55 bolt that is closest to the front bumper of the Jetta had an impossible angle for the ratchet to attach. I am assuming that VW has a proprietary wrench to deal with these T55 bolts. After a few attempts and trying to clean out the driver fittings… I gave up. I figured that I would try to plug the drain hole and get the Jetta to the garage for a proper work over…. Since I had a new drain plug for the new oil pan I figured what the heck, lets see if this fits. The new drain plug snugged right up and tightened to the oil pan…. So much for the aluminum being stripped out. After cursing my self for not trying that first I completed my oil change and set let the Jetta Idle for 5-10 minutes….. shut her down and sit for an hour while checking for any leaks…. so far none. After all of this I was glad that for now I was able to find my fix with the new drain plug bolt. But for those that are looking to attempt this here is a list of tools that will be needed from what I gathered from my attempt….. The T55 bolts I am not sure what to do about those yet…. am going to chat with an acquaintance who was a VW mech. and ask about those bolts and how they in the VW world deal with them..

3/8" metric set - 10mm socket, 19 mm socket, universal joint(swivel joint)
T55 Torx driver
torque wrench
5mm wobble hex wrench
rubber mallet
Large screw driver to help pry pan
good light/lamp for the 10mm bolts bear the bell housing.
Plenty of beer if things start to go down hill….
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Old September 6th, 2015, 14:18   #6
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4 years ago I had to change the oil pan in my schools parking lot. I was somehow able to get those 2 bolts with standard allen wrenches. This was a while back, so I dont remember how I did it. Although I do need to tighten them as I notice oil slightly sleeping out from both holes.
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Old September 6th, 2015, 16:00   #7
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Would a ball end 5mm work?
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Old September 6th, 2015, 19:17   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitcakesa View Post
Would a ball end 5mm work?
Yup, sure will if its long enough
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Old September 7th, 2015, 08:07   #9
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I read here that the flywheel needs to be turned in such a way that the three bolts are more accessible. IIRC, there is an indentation in the flywheel.
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Old September 7th, 2015, 20:04   #10
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Yes, there are two indentations in the back of the flywheel that allow your tools to be a little better aligned to the bolts.

They are 180degrees apart. Put a socket & ratchet on the crank bolt. Always rotate the engine in the normal direction of rotation (clockwise when looking at the front of the engine.

Rotate the engine until the indentation comes into view. It'll line up with the front bolt first. Remove that bolt then rotate the engine a bit more so the indentation lines up the the rear bolt. Remove that bolt.

When installing, rotate the engine almost 180deg so the other indentation lines up with the front bolt. Again, not a good idea to rotate the engine backwards. Install and tighten the front bolt, then rotate the engine and do the rear bolt.

I use a 5mm ball-end Allen socket. It's 5" long, that is it sticks out 5" from the socket.
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Old September 8th, 2015, 14:33   #11
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Once the flywheel/notches are lined up, you should be able to remove it easily with 1/4" socket + extension. But the ball-end allen wrenches are nice to have
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Old September 8th, 2015, 19:53   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobnOH View Post
But the ball-end allen wrenches are nice to have
They are nice until you snap the ball off and it gets stuck in the bolt... Ask me how I know...
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Old September 8th, 2015, 20:37   #13
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ball hex allen socket got mine out when I drilled the pan for my turbo drain

Kinda funny looking into my drawer of 1/4" drive sockets, with all the bit sockets, wobblies, standard metric shallow deep and semi deep, one little drawer, $2500 list price on all the junk in there
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Old May 29th, 2020, 11:51   #14
tomyang62
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I made a super shallow 1/4" universal 10 mm socket via tig welding myself.
Still, tried the entire morning could only get one of the two bolts loose off my
2003 jetta TDI. I loosened one cuz the flywheel notch happened to be at the right place!
Tried turning over the flywheel but got really frustrated. I'm thinking cut the pan or
just patch the rock punctured 1" hole.

Whoever designed this couldn't be a German.

Last edited by tomyang62; May 29th, 2020 at 11:59.
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Old May 29th, 2020, 17:40   #15
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so you can weld, but you cant weld a nut or bolt onto the one thats stuck?
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