How To Replace Compressor & Recharge System - AC Pics!
- Thread starter wolfman
- Start date
MAXRPM
Veteran Member
Open the valve on the can and let a little refrigerant into the system, then close the valve on the can. Note the pressure reading and wait 5 minutes. Make sure the pressure doesn't drop, although it may go up. If it goes down, you have a leak. Luckily, I did not. If there are no leaks, allow the oil charge into the system by turning the can upside-down. Now, get another can of refrigerant, pierce the top, and install to the lowside connector. Start the car and turn on the AC.
Open the can of ec-12a refrigerant and allow it into the system, slowly. Turn the can upside down, but not all at once - a little bit at a time. It will take the whole can. Check your pressure. Mine was about 35 psi.
It will probably take about another 3-4 ozs from a second can. DO NOT use the whole second can. It is too much.
When you hook up this tester to the car and measure the 35psi, do you do it with the A/C on and the car running or the car turned off? sorry for my ignorance.
d2305
Veteran Member
They can buy it, but not the general public aka shade tree mechanics.Asl6 said:
hevster1
Vendor
Well first off a set of gauges that measure both high and low sides is more helpful than that. Second the pressures will vary depending on ambient temp, humidity and compressor speed which on most vehicles is directly tied into the RPM.MAXRPM said:
Open the valve on the can and let a little refrigerant into the system, then close the valve on the can. Note the pressure reading and wait 5 minutes. Make sure the pressure doesn't drop, although it may go up. If it goes down, you have a leak. Luckily, I did not. If there are no leaks, allow the oil charge into the system by turning the can upside-down. Now, get another can of refrigerant, pierce the top, and install to the lowside connector. Start the car and turn on the AC.
Open the can of ec-12a refrigerant and allow it into the system, slowly. Turn the can upside down, but not all at once - a little bit at a time. It will take the whole can. Check your pressure. Mine was about 35 psi.
It will probably take about another 3-4 ozs from a second can. DO NOT use the whole second can. It is too much.
When you hook up this tester to the car and measure the 35psi, do you do it with the A/C on and the car running or the car turned off? sorry for my ignorance.
To answer your question yes it needs to run to see that low a reading. Normally I would expect about 90 psi or so in system with the compressor off.
mujjuman
Member
- Joined
- Nov 1, 2008
- Location
- Albany, Poughkeepsie, Queens, NY
- TDI
- actually no TDI, but i would LOVE one
Hi, sorry for the bump... but I need to do the SAME exact procedure.... can someone plz put the pics back up?
traviso
Active member
cant see picks.
zleem60
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Apr 4, 2009
- Location
- Queen Creek, AZ
- TDI
- 2006 Jetta TDI w/ 5th gear swap .658, 2002Jetta Tdi six speed swap!! :)
Wonder what happen to all the pics?
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
They were probably removed by the hosting firm's auto delete software. Many businesses automatically delete non-legal-record files after a year or two, to prevent having to supply them in a legal matter...and they were hosted by a law firm.
You really do not need them. The text seems sufficient to me. You will just not be able to understand some of it until you are looking at the car while doing the work.
You really do not need them. The text seems sufficient to me. You will just not be able to understand some of it until you are looking at the car while doing the work.
StreetRacerBY
Active member
Is anybody can tell me if Drier has some oil inside? I am going to replace Expansion Valve and Drier as well. Want to know if I will need to add oil in the system at all. Thanks.
turbocharged798
Veteran Member
Bad idea to use R12a. The "envirosafe" stuff is nothing but propane and butane. If it was that good, why wouldn't VW put in into the cars from the factory? Think huge fireball if you get into a front end collision when all the refrigerant excapes.
Google it if you don't believe me. I would rather use old CFC's that have yet to have proof that they are causing ozone destruction than use clearly flammable refrigerant which can KILL people in a accident. Why do you think they add "pine" scent to it?
Personally, I would use the CORRECT R134A which these cars is designed for.
Google it if you don't believe me. I would rather use old CFC's that have yet to have proof that they are causing ozone destruction than use clearly flammable refrigerant which can KILL people in a accident. Why do you think they add "pine" scent to it?
Personally, I would use the CORRECT R134A which these cars is designed for.
Turbodude1
Veteran Member
I am all for using the right stuff. I saw this chart on their web page and does it imply that 134A is also flamable with a lower auto ignition temperature??
http://autorefrigerants.com/Envirotechnical.htm
Turbodude1
Veteran Member
a quote from their web page:
Like most organic materials ENVIRO-SAFE is flammable, but its ignition temperature is 1585ºF at both 5 psi and 0 psi (which is better than the DuPont R-134a's ignition temperature of 368ºF at 5 psi and 1411ºF at 0 psi).
Like most organic materials ENVIRO-SAFE is flammable, but its ignition temperature is 1585ºF at both 5 psi and 0 psi (which is better than the DuPont R-134a's ignition temperature of 368ºF at 5 psi and 1411ºF at 0 psi).
Liability, plain and simple. The idea of having flammable gas in a car where people might be smoking can be a liability. If the evaporator should happen to leak and then ignite
In reality, how many times has this happened? The thermal expansion valve is in the engine compartment, downstream of that is low pressure, meaning little stress when it is running. Sure, it is at 100+ PSI when not running but unless there is an accident, it wouldn't be suddenly released.
Now under the hood? Yeah, that could be a problem. But gasoline powered cars have 15 gallons of gasoline, that is 90 pounds. 100 times more than what the AC system holds in propane-butane.
You do not have to worry about ignition point IN the system, there isn't enough oxygen to burn. It won't react.
chouchens
New member
have any pics? can I replace pully and clutch without removing lines
DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Yes, you can replace pulley and clutch without disturbing the refrigerant.
Dimitri16V
Top Post Dawg
do you want the Delaware version of why R134 was chosen by the feds ??? it was all DuPont lobbying for it, that's what I heard from DuPont R&D people
Actually, DuPont didn't hold a patent for R134a or R12 patent that was "expiring". It is all on the Montreal Protocol.
Sure, they would lobby for its approval because it was a new market. As are all the new refrigerants for mobile refrigeration. Now if Sanden et al were lobbying for it, you might have an issue since it is the equipment manufacturers and their long-term liability for support which cost far most in the refrigerant change.
Sure, they would lobby for its approval because it was a new market. As are all the new refrigerants for mobile refrigeration. Now if Sanden et al were lobbying for it, you might have an issue since it is the equipment manufacturers and their long-term liability for support which cost far most in the refrigerant change.
Airstream
Veteran Member
As this is an old but authoritative thread on AC repair around the forum. I will add my experience. I bought the car knowing the AC didn't work at all. I noticed that the AC button didn't engage the compressor at all, but I bought it in the fall so have only started thinking about it recently. The PO told me he took it to a shop and they told him it was the compressor. I read this thread numerous times gearing up for the same job but something Herm TDI said elsewhere in the forums caught my attention. He mentioned the clutch coil going bad and its actually very easy to check. Simply take a Ohms/resistance reading on the compressor electrical plug and it should read about 4.0 but mine showed infinite. Just to be sure I tried to jump it and it still didn't engage so I had found at least one major problem.
You can get a new clutch coil for about $60 from Polar Bear Inc. and they are very helpful. The install is relatively very easy. Here is a tutorial to get you started but its pretty self explanatory.
The beauty of this fix is that you don't open the refrigerant side of the AC system saving lots of cash and time. My AC hadn't worked for a year or two and I had no knowledge of the possibility of leaks or the amount of refrigerant in the system. I replaced the coil and turned on the AC only to be pleasantly surprised by ice cold air. It works good as new now. Before you replace and open the system make sure this isn't your problem.
A big thanks to Herm for guiding me in this!
You can get a new clutch coil for about $60 from Polar Bear Inc. and they are very helpful. The install is relatively very easy. Here is a tutorial to get you started but its pretty self explanatory.
The beauty of this fix is that you don't open the refrigerant side of the AC system saving lots of cash and time. My AC hadn't worked for a year or two and I had no knowledge of the possibility of leaks or the amount of refrigerant in the system. I replaced the coil and turned on the AC only to be pleasantly surprised by ice cold air. It works good as new now. Before you replace and open the system make sure this isn't your problem.
A big thanks to Herm for guiding me in this!
ES12a Flames Like a Blowtorch
I have successfully used ES12a, but once when the system didn't require all of the last can, I removed the can tap and sparked the remaining gas that was coming out. What a mistake! I ended up running out of the garage with a blow torch in my hand as the flame shot out a foot or more. This was with a can that was almost empty. After experiencing this I can't take seriously the claims that ES12a is totally safe.
Loved this thread, although what I have now is a lowly antique 1985 Jetta diesel which I love and wife hates since left door was banged in from accident. AC used to work, but leaks so I need to find the leak. I'm not very happy with electronic leak detectors as i can't find the leak with the one I have. I think the UV type dye might work better (anyone have any experience with it?). My antique has about 150K miles on it, so diesel lovers would probably say it's just broken in. It still has the original coolant lines on it, so those German parts are pretty good.
I have successfully used ES12a, but once when the system didn't require all of the last can, I removed the can tap and sparked the remaining gas that was coming out. What a mistake! I ended up running out of the garage with a blow torch in my hand as the flame shot out a foot or more. This was with a can that was almost empty. After experiencing this I can't take seriously the claims that ES12a is totally safe.
Loved this thread, although what I have now is a lowly antique 1985 Jetta diesel which I love and wife hates since left door was banged in from accident. AC used to work, but leaks so I need to find the leak. I'm not very happy with electronic leak detectors as i can't find the leak with the one I have. I think the UV type dye might work better (anyone have any experience with it?). My antique has about 150K miles on it, so diesel lovers would probably say it's just broken in. It still has the original coolant lines on it, so those German parts are pretty good.
Anyone know where I can order just a compressor clutch for my compressor?
Herm TDI
Vendor
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2001
- TDI
- 2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
Here is a clutch coil...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Beetle-A...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab7b5a9e9&vxp=mtr
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Here is a whole AC clutch kit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-Golf-AC-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab7b59bf8&vxp=mtr
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DanG144
Top Post Dawg
Note that that clutch kit only works on about 1/3 of the compressors put on our cars. Check the model number closely, and verify the front of your clutch plate looks like that one.
http://worldaire.com/pdf/2005WorldaireClutchCatalogSept1.pdf page 25 (pdf page26) shows the three used on our cars. CH 201, CH 202, CH 203.
http://worldaire.com/pdf/2005WorldaireClutchCatalogSept1.pdf page 25 (pdf page26) shows the three used on our cars. CH 201, CH 202, CH 203.
Dorkage
Veteran Member
What do you guys make of the remanufactured compressors on eBay? They don't seem much more expensive than a clutch kit. My bearing grenaded and we mangled the compressor shaft really good getting the clutch off. The clutch does not come off very easy on cars from Ontario, I can tell you that.
Eskimo yo-yo
Veteran Member
just purchased the denso one for $100 bucks, very good deal imho
wmgeorge
Veteran Member
As a guy who has worked in the commercial AC and Refrigeration field for more than 30 years, let give some free advice. Always pull a vacuum. Removes the non- condensable air and you would be surprised at the amount of moisture it contains. R134a and the oil holds the moisture unlike the old R12. Under pressure in the system it will cause havoc in the the expansion valve and compressor. The air present can not act as a refrigerant and adds to the high side pressure.
The HC12 is nothing but repackaged butane or propane. Yes it will work as a refrigerant but is flammable. Think of your gas grill.
Over in Europe they are / were marketing household refrigerators charged with the stuff. Inside a system it is safe, outside think of your gas grill.
Link to EPA> http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc12alng.html
The HC12 is nothing but repackaged butane or propane. Yes it will work as a refrigerant but is flammable. Think of your gas grill.
Over in Europe they are / were marketing household refrigerators charged with the stuff. Inside a system it is safe, outside think of your gas grill.
Link to EPA> http://www.epa.gov/ozone/snap/refrigerants/hc12alng.html
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wmgeorge
Veteran Member
I've used the dye to find leaks with a black light. Cheaper liquid soap and a little water can be used to check the fittings and connections where it usually leaks. Be sure to wash off the soap mixture because it will corrode over time. If you have it charged with the HC-12 stuff I don't think an electronic detector will work.
wincharger
Veteran Member
Here's a tool that might be useful, a vacuum puller for the diy'er
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum-pump-with-r134a-and-r12-connectors-96677.html
wmgeorge
Veteran Member
Yes that will work, any vacuum is better than none. On the big expensive systems we would use pumps capable of pulling down in the micron range and it will would literally boil and vaporize the water out in a deep vacuum.
Car AC is not that critical, the dryer change out will take out moisture and the above HF tool will remove enough of the air to keep the head pressure down and allow for more cooling. They also sell a cheap electric powered pump that would be handy if you did a lot of compressor replacement. The one above is powered by a air pressure.
Link> http://www.harborfreight.com/25-cfm-vacuum-pump-98076.html