ID parts Winter Front

Sometimes if it's above 35*f and I feel the car owes me a regen (based on how long its been since the last) I'll install the lower block so that the bottom actually sits on the painted lip/ 'splitter', which allows one 'slots worth' of airflow into the IC right at the top. Sits securely on the velcro too, highway speeds and all.
Ps, nice block heater connector near the foglamp, is that optional OEM in Canada or is that a Frostheater? Looks very nice.

IndigoBlueWagon said:

So the sensor is telling you when IATs are too high. If you cut a hole to fool the sensor, IATs could be beyond the acceptable range and you won't know, because you fooled the sensor. Is this better?

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I monitor my IATs, so for me it wouldn't be an much of an issue. I think the issue here is that the OAT is actually low, but when the cover is obstructing the probe and airflow is low, the reading is higher due to the influence of the engine heat.

My assumption is that this is only an issue when you are not moving and getting some airflow. I think the computer sees a higher OAT, and then sees the current IAT and computes that the intercooler efficiency is off. (It is!)

I have noticed that my OAT reading is usually only misreporting when I have no airflow (stopped, or slow traffic). The computer thinks its going to get this temperature of airflow when moving - this shouldn't be the case always. If you are in stop and go its a double whammy because you are getting more boost that in cruise, which means higher IATs that haven't been cooled as much with the low airflow which makes the issue surface even more.

Obviously if we "trick" the system to thinking that the air entering the grill is at OAT, and we aren't getting any airflow then yes, this is a problem. Essentially all we are doing at that point is killing efficiency since we are not sufficiently cooling the post-turbo compressed air. This is why I imagine that this circumstance issues a CEL and not an MFD message when it trips (and also goes away on its own).

For those of us who do a lot of highway driving, I don't think it should be that much of an issue. I have seen the code twice now, both times from OAT above 35 combined with city travel.

Samcar222 said:

Sometimes if it's above 35*f and I feel the car owes me a regen (based on how long its been since the last) I'll install the lower block so that the bottom actually sits on the painted lip/ 'splitter', which allows one 'slots worth' of airflow into the IC right at the top. Sits securely on the velcro too, highway speeds and all.
Ps, nice block heater connector near the foglamp, is that optional OEM in Canada or is that a Frostheater? Looks very nice.

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It's part of the cold weather package on all Canadian VW TDI's. Not a Frostheater. Only 500 Watts but better than nothing.

Samcar222 said:

Why did you close off both grills in 60*f weather??

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Aero drag from the heat exchangers and engine bay is a very high percentage of the total vehicle aero drag (upwards of 30%). Therefore I try and maximize the usage of the grille blocks. I averaged around 44mpg over roughly 1500 miles at Christmas, with temps ranging from 0*F to 60*F, so it does help highway fuel economy. Like I mentioned previously, even if you don't have a coolant temp gauge (besides the idiot gauge in the cluster), you can monitor ambient air temp in the MFD. If it starts to creep up above ambient more than a couple degrees, it's probably time to increase air flow.

unorganizedplan said:

Also, if VW thought winter covers were necessary, they would offer an OEM option. They don't however. So we are basically making this modification at our own discretion. Yes I believe there is a benefit, however it is not a tried and true mod yet as the covers are quite new on the market.

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They do think it's necessary. But they don't just leave it closed off.

"Dynamic radiator shutter. One new aerodynamic feature on the Jetta TDI 1.8T and 2.0 TDI Clean Diesel is a closeable shutter for the radiator grille. Closing the radiator shutter helps shorten the warm-up phase of the engine due to reduced air cooling. If the engine coolant temperature drops below a predefined temperature threshold while driving, the radiator shutter remains shut. Once the engine moves beyond the warm-up phase, the shutter can open and close based on vehicle speed and cooling demands. When closed, frontal airflow is guided around the body, which helps to improve the car’s aerodynamics and thus reduces fuel consumption."

Not sure if that's available in the US, but that was off an article heralding the 2015's last summer.

SkeeterMark said:

They do think it's necessary. But they don't just leave it closed off.

"Dynamic radiator shutter. One new aerodynamic feature....

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I'll clarify - if they thought it was necessary on the MK6 cars we're talking about, there would be an OEM option, TSB, etc...

Also, I'm not saying these covers are necessary, but they do help when used under the appropriate conditions, as with pretty much any other vehicle.

Samcar222 said:

Sometimes if it's above 35*f and I feel the car owes me a regen (based on how long its been since the last) I'll install the lower block so that the bottom actually sits on the painted lip/ 'splitter', which allows one 'slots worth' of airflow into the IC right at the top. Sits securely on the velcro too, highway speeds and all.
Ps, nice block heater connector near the foglamp, is that optional OEM in Canada or is that a Frostheater? Looks very nice.

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Cogen Man said:

It's part of the cold weather package on all Canadian VW TDI's. Not a Frostheater. Only 500 Watts but better than nothing.

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That's right, it is OEM with the cold weather package. Stock coolant heater for now, but I have a FrostHeater at home just waiting to be installed. I believe the OEM heater will come out, and I'll continue to utilize the OEM plug for the FrostHeater with some splicing in behind the grille.

engineered2win said:

I don't understand why everyone is crying about having issues after they knowingly blocked off a great deal of airflow to their heat exchangers.

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Truth.


FWIW my lower is blocked.. No codes.. No issues at all.



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I'm using the pipe insulation foam in the lower grilles. Helps with warm up. Keeps out some salt, slush etc. Looks not bad, but I don't really care because it's winter time and the front end gets covered with crap. I've never covered the top grill.