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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old July 13th, 2018, 22:28   #1
Internaut
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Join Date: May 2018
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TDI(s): '98 Jetta
Default Grinding when clutch is completely depressed.

Whenever I press the clutch pedal all the way down I get a very faint grinding sound. I'm thinking that the clutch is over extending for whatever reason. Although I just very recently replaced the clutch and TOB I guess it could be a dud? If I press the pedal about 3/4 of the way I can shift without a grind but of course that's probably not any better.. I read online that someone had their starter engage because of interference with with the clutch interlock switch (expected with all the wire splicing I've done and the P/O has done on the car) but I bypassed the switch and nothing. Not sure what it has to do with anything but I bled the slave cylinder. I'm considering making a spacer to go in between the slave and bell housing so that the piston doesn't extend as far. Thoughts?
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Old July 14th, 2018, 03:51   #2
GCBUG00
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Spacer will not shorten the slave cylinder stroke. If you want to rig up a temp fix make a pedal stop. That will reduce the total slave cylinder travel.

Did it happen immediately after clutch install, or later?

New flywheel too?
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Old July 14th, 2018, 09:09   #3
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It may have been immediately I'm not sure.. when I first test drove it I don't think I noticed anything but of course I wasn't listening for it then I was focused on the clutch working lol. New single mass flywheel. It didn't grind before I replaced everything.. clutch works amazingly and I can shift without a hitch. So when the slave piston extends it doesn't "max out" it just stops once the clutch is disengaged? I'm having a hard time seeing why a spacer wouldn't work
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Old July 14th, 2018, 19:12   #4
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I had similar symptoms which turned to no shift. There was a crack in the release lever. Clutch not fully disengaging might be causing the current grind. How many miles on the clutch?
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Old July 14th, 2018, 21:10   #5
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Probably about 5 miles now, I inspected the release lever when I replaced the clutch and it didn't seem damaged but I guess I didn't know what to look for.. Now that I think of it, it could be because I bought an ebay clutch haha.. So I think I'll just drive it like I have been until the clutch dies.. I'm thinking a stopper like the accelerator pedal has would be great if I can figure out how to jerry-rig it.
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Old July 15th, 2018, 04:20   #6
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Slave cylinders do not rely on an internal stop. The distance your slave cylinder travels is determined by the volume of fluid displaced from the master cylinder. Push on the pedal a little, short slave cylinder stroke, longer pedal travel = longer slave cylinder stroke.

The one drawback about a pedal stop is if it will interfere with the start switch position.

Do you feel anything in the pedal when its making noise?
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Old Yesterday, 02:20   #7
Internaut
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There seems to be a minute amount of vibration felt through the pedal. I already disabled the starter safety switch so no worries there.. but with a spacer in between it would set the slave piston back further and then when you push the pedal down it would not go as further right? It would still have the same stroke just wouldn't push the release lever as far.. or what am I not getting here?
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Old Yesterday, 08:16   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Internaut View Post
There seems to be a minute amount of vibration felt through the pedal. I already disabled the starter safety switch so no worries there.. but with a spacer in between it would set the slave piston back further and then when you push the pedal down it would not go as further right? It would still have the same stroke just wouldn't push the release lever as far.. or what am I not getting here?
Spacers don't work. The master will just advance the slave cylinder forward to compensate like it would for wear of the clutch disc. Been there, etc...
I wound up putting a pedal stroke limit bumper on the firewall. It is a press-in barb type retainer and amazingly enough my Super-Duper TruValue hardware had one in one of the drawers in the hardware section.

Did you happen to change the clutch lever and pivot for the throwout bearing? If the pivot/lever is worn or broken it will change the geometry of the lever to a more exaggerated angle and cause the top end of the lever to interfere with the works.
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Old Yesterday, 09:50   #9
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Oh that's where the auto adjusting clutch comes into play, I see. I didn't change either of those but come next clutch change which could be soon with these circumstances, I'll get 'em switched out hopefully. I just noticed another sound as well which makes me think it could be the TOB, it makes a click-clack when the clutch pedal is all the way up and goes away as soon as the pedal is depressed at all. When I pulled the head out I bent that metal cover back betweeen the block and T/B components to clear for the stud for the T/B tensioner and then when I bent it back it got disformed and was rubbing on the intermediate pulley.. good god that was loud.. I ended up persauding it with a hammer and noise cured
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