1985 rebuld

Now is a good time to replace all the rubber hoses, Inspect axles for damage and wear. Clean engine bay (grease), Replace motor mounts, clutch and tranny seals, etc. That why you have a trouble free car for many miles without naging nickel and dime problems that arise with older cars. Tie rods, struts, ball joints. Inspect radiator and heater core (they are pretty cheap to replace if needed). Inspect all wiring as well in the engine, check brakes, front and rear wheel bearings. Good luck.

yeah all the little things add up i figure i but about 3000 into this thing and ill have a car thats good for 250,000 miles and 20 years if i keep up with the matiance of it all

Post some pics of during the process and post for us (or me at least).

will do

AWPGTI said:

will do

Click to expand...

A "really smart guy" would also be talking to Oilhammer about what it would also take for his assistance in the installation of this fine engine --- since you will have one of "thee" absolute best mechanics on the board at your place anyhow . If money, food and liquor fails, have these ladies (Bob's girls) sit on his van until he so agrees:

pic removed

god damn not even with you pushing would i hit that .....I talked a few things over with him really nice guy should get this underway in a bit

SO me and my boy celebrated October fest by drinking a few imported beers and working on the VW....got alot done, whole front end is off and where ready for the next step, engine and tranny removal.....now for the pics






the car even had a drink

Looking good Doug! She will ride again!

Find the 12pt tool and go pull the axles.

got it waiting for the bentley man. to show up

Got the book spells out everythinggggg

axles will be coming out some time this week

did a bunch of work today.....got the engine out......so far about 5 hrs of work here is some pictures, the only snag we hit was that an axles bolt didnt want to come out (striped) bolt ill use a bolt out or somthing to get it out.








a little rust on the fire wall that will need to be delt with

That rust is from the A/C evaporator drain.

How did you get the exhaust pipe spring clamps off?

Clan up everything good and prime and paint what parts you can, back to original color. I like Krylon spray paint.

A word of caution: Have the bores miked accurately (or do it yourself) and follow the Bentley manual to the letter concerning the bore to cylinder clearances. You most likely need to bore to oversize and get a new OEM piston set. Make sure the shop understands the clearances. I have heard stories of the shop matching the piston/cylinder to a gasoline VW spec and right from the get-go, the engine is "worn out" because the clearances are too great.

See if Frank can rework the head. On my '85 Jetta TD I had, I actually installed new valve guides and seals myself, and lapped the valves into the seats and this worked quite well and was about $20! Suposidly you are supposed to ream the guides, but the valves were free enough in them and I did not bother (I could not find a 8.0 mm valve guide ream for them either). No issues at all. I did have on hand the special valve spring compressor, valve guide installer drift (8.0 mm), valve seal pliers. I used a 1/4 inch drive nut driver of the correct size to fit the guide face and a claw hammer to drive the old guides out of the head. A few good whacks knocked them out!

--Nate

Did you buy the engine from Oilhammer? That is a very good price for that engine, you couldn't do the rebuild cheaper yourself.

yes i will be buying oilhammers engine, and to get the spring clips off i used a screw driver.....what was i suppose to use

There is a special spring clamp tool. I can give you a tip on getting them back on without the tool though. You can get them off without the tool, although the tool is much easier.

Chances are the gasket was worn down which made it easier to remove.

Alas I can no longer use Oilhammer as my 1.6 in the hole.

For the love of god stay away from parts place the incompetence and price gouging is relentless.

Do you have a set of IDI timing tools?

LOL.... yeah, Parts Place is pretty lame.

AWPGTI said:

yes i will be buying oilhammers engine, and to get the spring clips off i used a screw driver.....what was i suppose to use

Click to expand...

Here's one improvised method, that works fantastic. Exhaust clamp is around 3 bucks. You only need to do this on one side. You can usually get the first side on by cocking the pipe to one side.

Yep, that is the one trick. The other is to use an old V-belt around the clamp during install, and use a pry bar against the bottom of the engine to pull the belt down, then just cut the belt off once the clamp is on.

I have the correct tool, but don't get to use it much any more. I think it cost me $60 or so, but that was many years ago.

The bad bolt should be pretty easy to get out. One thing you may want to do with one that hasn't been out for a while is clean out the bolt head with a pick or something really good to get a good seat with the tool in the head of the bolt. May help to tap it in a bit with a hammer a little bit. But if it is stripped out a lock pliers should be able to get it out as spec torque is 33 ft-lbs if I remember right. Also make sure the tool is straight in the bolt head. Helps to rotate the axle with each bolt to get it to the right spot and someone that is able to apply the brakes as you rotate through the bolts. Wish I would have thought of the cheap clamp tool tricks before I bought the "proper" tool.

i like the look of that exhaust clamp trick very nice.....i got the bolt out took a little brute force and my 86 year old grandfathers know how, for being an old man he is still as stong as an ox......hey what do you guys suggest as a degreeser and rust remover, i have seen diffrent dips from the rust wonder if anyone knows of a trick??

Castrol Super Clean works very well, rinses away with water.

I use Gunk brand engine dergreaser (the kerosene-based one, not the foamy Engine Brite) and just rinse off, followed by compressed air to dry.

--Nate

ok ill give that a try

cant get the damn engine and tranny seperated

Make 100% sure you have all the bolts out, we have all been there. Then bust out the soft mallet and teach it a lesson!

2 bolts at the top, one on the back going opposite direction, and the starter bolts. Got all those loose?

You will also need to remove the steel plate (2 bolts) behind the CV flange in back so that the flange will clear when removing the trans.

ok didnt see the rear cv ones have all those other once metioned loose the bentley has a poor picture of it ill get on that

just check i did have them off i guess i just need to pull it of strait ill work on it tomm