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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old January 12th, 2018, 11:02   #1
k98shooter
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Default Supporting the engine for timing belt job

Good afternoon, my car is approaching 120k and I have all parts to start TB job (except of the tools, which I am going to rent). I don't have a hoist to support the engine from above while unbolting the engine support. I am wondering if jacking up the engine little bit by oil pan would suffice? I've replaced torn engine supports this way, using a piece of 2x6 under oil pan to evenly spread load. Thank you.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 11:31   #2
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That's fine, as long as you are properly supporting and balancing the engine on the pan. a 2x6 laid flat works perfect.
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Old January 12th, 2018, 11:45   #3
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There's no need to mess with the motor mount. Just get a new tensioner stud and remove the old one to replace the tensioner. Easier, faster, safer. This method is mentioned in most all of the write-ups.
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Old January 13th, 2018, 11:31   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbobrick240 View Post
There's no need to mess with the motor mount. Just get a new tensioner stud and remove the old one to replace the tensioner. Easier, faster, safer. This method is mentioned in most all of the write-ups.
Agreed.

Scroll down to the Pro Method.

https://www.dieselgeek.com/products/...tta-beetle-tdi
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Old February 18th, 2018, 16:41   #5
k98shooter
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Good evening! it's been a while and my car is way beyond 120K and rented Metalnerd tool kit was sitting around for several days, so I decided to get things going. Everything is out, including the water pump. Tensioner removal pro method worked fine, without need of removing engine mount. I was able to take off the old TB only after removing both small and one large roller. have no idea how I am gonna put new one back..
I am not sure which one is radiator lower hose, I was about to undo it to drain remaining old coolant, but I was am not sure if it is radiator or intecooler hose. (approx. 3 inch diameter hose on passenger side).

Now the major concern... I am not entirely sure I secured HPFP sprocket properly as it appeared to move after I removed old bolts (with pin in place). I took a pic while the old TB was still on and after belt removal. Camshaft sprocket seems to be fine with pin all the way in place.


Your help and advise, as always much appreciated!
BTW, old tensioner and roller bearings feel like new, without any play or grinding. So are both belts, no cracks etc.





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Old February 18th, 2018, 19:53   #6
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but the timing on the fuel pump isn't essential. The thing you need perfect is cam and tensioner. Rotate by hand, check, rotate by hand check again. Make sure everything is torqued properly. I kind of think the recommend +90 etc is a bit overkill.

Whatcha this video, it is a big help!

https://youtu.be/fAi667H7M2Y
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Old February 19th, 2018, 07:53   #7
turbobrick240
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The CP4 hpfp doesn't require timing so much as it does clocking so that the pressure spikes correspond with injection events. Unless the hpfp is getting replaced, there's no need to mess with the sprocket. It should get pinned to maintain the proper clocking though.
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