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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014)

VW MKVI-A6 Golf family including Jetta SportWagen (~ 2010-2014) Discussions area for A6/MkVI (2010-2014) Golf and Golf Wagons (Jetta Sportwagon in the USA).

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Old January 6th, 2013, 08:38   #16
2micron
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Canada
TDI(s): None
Default Check your Thermostaic Valve

Hello Bus / Camper,
Good work, you have really dug into this.
1.)Is my fuel temperature a clue? -Fuel Temp looks quite high.
2.)Does that look like the piston siezing and could this be my loss of pressure?-Little scuffs on follower and bore look very familiar and not likely mild seizing. If the follower did seize, the damage would likely be more scoring. This looks very familiar to many pump bores and follower scuffs I have been experimenting with.
3.)Is that fuel correct with the cloudy nature to it?-Fuel looks like it has air in it. How long has this fuel been sitting since the last time you ran your car, or pumps?
4.)What do I do next? -Look into your Thermostatic Valve. I wonder if it has been cycling the fuel constantly back into the filter canister and creating the extra heat, and somehow adding air into it?
Check your PM for some more detailed thoughts about temporarily By-Passing the Thermostatic Valve.
Hope this helps!
All the best,
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Old January 13th, 2013, 11:05   #17
busandcamper
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Hi, ok not so good news.

With the help of this forum I now know I'm chasing high fuel temps (80 deg C) and a severe case of aerated diesel - so something is wrong and a case of what is it?

A tip from 2micron suggested a thermostat bypass, so I rigged a bypass of the thermostat in the fuel filter housing - as in the picture. Everything looks as if it should work, but when i run the pumps in group 35 I get an odd response - sort of a zzzzttt and then no further sound from the aux pump as if it stopped pumping. The pump does make an odd tick / click but defintiely no whirring like we've heard before. Also you'll see we plumbed a clear line for the loop on the filer can but there was never any diesel in this line.

All a little odd, but not to be deterred I rigged up some clear line on the HPFP to tank joint and verified diesel was indeed flowing. On the spur of this I tried to start the engine but it stumbled and coughed, missed and then coughed some more, cut it off before something baad happened. On inspection in the engine bay I'm met with a soaked engine - diesel sprayed everywhere. Difficult to trace but we have a leak from the top of the engine as a clue maybe (pic).

Break out the rags, engine gunk and clean up. I return the piping to normal, bleed the system with 4 cylces of group 35 and the engine fires and runs perfect - a 20 minute drive backs this up.

So what next? My guess is the return line to the tank is blocked, and on my engine the diesel is being cycled from HPFP to the filter can back to the aux pump indefinitely and this is why I get aerated and high fuel temps. Even if the thermostat is open to say 'go back to the tank now' with the blockage there is no chance of this. Only when the fuel gets used by the engine does fresh fuel enter the system. To sort of back this up a little in my last 'drive home log' I observed a steady drop in fuel temp, starting the log at 86 deg C and ending at 80 deg C after a 5 minute drive.
http://www.busandcamper.com/images/t...E-071-193.xlsx

Am I on the right track? Plan is to purchase a pressure gauge, bypass again and investigate why I cant cycle diesel back to the tank like normal. Kinked pipe? Wrong connection? Or debris in the line maybe?

Does the fiel line run through the underbody covers or can I visually inspect it all the way? My drawback is I have a fair selection of tools but not a 2 post lift to get the car in the air.

Any thoughts suggestions? Appreciate the help thus far chaps - thank you,

rgds, AL


.

.
Leaked from here with a drip drip

Last edited by busandcamper; January 13th, 2013 at 11:07. Reason: forgot pics
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Old January 13th, 2013, 12:57   #18
2micron
 
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Quite a messy day you have had! You did the bypass the same way mine has been running for months now. It looks like you just found the problem! You are on the right track and proved the return line is blocked, preventing the fuel returning to the tank and over pressurizing the return lines on top if the motor.
The over Aux pump is a positive displacement pump and the click, tick, click, is the pump stopped, trying turn, like you described. The leaks are simply the return lines on top of the engine not being able to cope with the full pressure of the aux pump. With the lines in the factory positions, the return fuel is most likely being bled back along the lower pressure feed line, fighting all the way and creating air somewhere in the feed pump, possibly causing it to cavitate?
I can only suggest to trace the return line and check for any issues and or the connection at the tank, like you said!!
You are in the right track and I can see you resolving this very soon.
Check your PM.
Hope this helps!! By now, you must be getting frustrated!!
All the best,

Last edited by 2micron; January 13th, 2013 at 12:58. Reason: Spelling for cavitate?
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Old January 17th, 2013, 20:37   #19
lt313
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Fuel Economy: 34 Ave per tank
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Just catching up on your progress. Looks like your on the right track. You may have already done this but an easy way to prove your plugged return line theory would be to run a temporary line from the metal return line on the engine back to the fill tube on the tank. Just make sure it's secure enough for your road test and hopefully the tank is not full enough for fuel to splash out of the fill neck while driving. If this fixes the problem then you can start isolating the individual lines from there. Just remember to start on one end and work to the other. Since you are the second owner it's possible someone may have removed the rubber fuels line for some reason and when reattaching to the metal fittings may have created a flap, plugging the line. The metal fitting can shave the rubber on the inside of the hose as it is being pressed on causing a flap or blockage. It can happen on new hose but as they age it may happen more easily.
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Old January 18th, 2013, 18:04   #20
lt313
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Just a quick note. I was able to duplicate your aux pump buzzing today by pinching off the fuel return line where it leaves the filter and goes to the tank.
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Old January 18th, 2013, 20:41   #21
bobt2382
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Default

Nice troubleshooting. I was thinking about doing the same...obviously I was too lazy.
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Old January 20th, 2013, 01:50   #22
dweisel
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lt313 View Post
Just a quick note. I was able to duplicate your aux pump buzzing today by pinching off the fuel return line where it leaves the filter and goes to the tank.
If you have not already checked. Double check to make sure the supply/return lines are not switched at the in tank fuel sending unit. I briefly read the thread,so I'm not sure if you already did this. Your symptoms sure sound like this is what is going on.

Good luck,
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Old January 25th, 2013, 10:20   #23
busandcamper
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Well this could be it.

So despite re-assurance from the local VW specialist that all in the tank was ok, I took dwiesels advice and had a look.

This is what I found - Oh dear swapped lines, dayum


So switch them back, and 5 minutes later I'm rolling down the road - I drove for 40 minutes and got bored burning diesel (its expensive here) to see temps quikly climb to 15 and then hover around 22 for the remainder of the drive - looks like thermostat behaviour to me. No long journey but am scheduled fro one on Sunday - will report back if it goes t1ts after that.

So I'd say this was it. Dayum that was easy - if only I checked that myself.

My thanks to dwiesel, 2micron, lt313 and others on this forum for their help, I will endeavour to return the favour when I can see where I can contribute.

Rgds, AL
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Last edited by busandcamper; January 25th, 2013 at 10:20. Reason: pic
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Old January 26th, 2013, 07:55   #24
scdevon
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I love when a problem gets sorted out with help from the forum.

That residual fuel in the pump bore looks a little "off". Maybe it's just the photography. I'd get a tank full of fresh fuel in that car pronto.
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Old January 26th, 2016, 13:17   #25
IanEricson
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Is that a picture of how the lines should be, or is that how the lines should not be?

I can see that this is a 3 year old thread, but I purchased a 2011 VW Sportwagen TDI yesterday, and today am experiencing the exact same symptoms. Buzzing, Limp Along twice, and P0087 plus engine light. Is that a picture of how the lines should be, or is that how the lines should not be?
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Old January 26th, 2016, 14:06   #26
2micron
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by busandcamper View Post
Well this could be it.

So despite re-assurance from the local VW specialist that all in the tank was ok, I took dwiesels advice and had a look.

This is what I found - Oh dear swapped lines, dayum


So switch them back, and 5 minutes later I'm rolling down the road
.
This picture has the lines reversed. The blue line should be closest to the electrical plug.
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Old February 17th, 2016, 16:26   #27
kbarjet
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Default Swapping fuel lines

Did this really fix your problem. My 2010 JSW fuel lines are connected same as what your picture shows. I swapped them (put blue closest to elec connector) but car still throws low fuel pressure code P0087.
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Old January 17th, 2018, 04:43   #28
sibujacob
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So after a year now, were you able to solve the problem for the low fuel pressure code P0087 .
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