madcowintucson
Veteran Member
It does not allow fuel after its unplugged, it dies just like every other pump thanks to vw.
Lift Pumps: What are they doing, anyway?
- Thread starter Stealth TDI
- Start date
Diesel_Freak86
Member
Could a regulated truck LP be worth it? The FASS titanium universal 95GPH comes to mind. It's pre set to 16psi @ 95GPH.
red16vdub
Veteran Member
Yea and when our water pump fail and it stops circulating eventually like every other pump we'll blame VW also.
If you don't like what you're driving why hesitate, buy something else.
bajan
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
Sure my friend please educate me in my other plug and play options. While you are at it, be sure to use a 40,000 mile plastic water pump impeller instead if the metal one on your next timing belt job, I am positive they last just as long and are just as reliable as the 100,000 mile units
LNXGUY
Top Post Dawg
lol @ you thinking the impeller has anything to do with the waterpump failing.Sure my friend please educate me in my other plug and play options. While you are at it, be sure to use a 40,000 mile plastic water pump impeller instead if the metal one on your next timing belt job, I am positive they last just as long and are just as reliable as the 100,000 mile units
The previous owner of my car had a timing belt job done at an independent shop and they used a plastic impeller water pump.
6k miles after the timing belt job the car kept over heating so she took it back to the independent shop. They then charged her for:
first time: thermostat
second time: radiator
third time: radiator cooling fan
fourth time: temperature sending unit (the one in the radiator)
on the fifth trip the shop just used a paper clip as a jumper wire on the temp sending unit to make the fans run all the time with the key in the on position.
She finally got tired of the independent shops BS and took it to the dealer.
The dealer found the water pump impeller had come off the shaft.
The dealer charged her for a new water pump (plastic impeller) and the labor to do a timing belt job.
I have the original service department receipt for this repair, (and about 120 additional pages of every service the dealer ever did) and everything is noted on it.
The water pump that failed was an OEM unit purchased directly from VW with all the timing belt parts.
I just did my timing belt in July and made sure to order a metal impeller water pump.
I do not know if it makes much of a difference in lifespan or durability but I would not skimp on what little price difference there was between the plastic and metal impeller versions.
6k miles after the timing belt job the car kept over heating so she took it back to the independent shop. They then charged her for:
first time: thermostat
second time: radiator
third time: radiator cooling fan
fourth time: temperature sending unit (the one in the radiator)
on the fifth trip the shop just used a paper clip as a jumper wire on the temp sending unit to make the fans run all the time with the key in the on position.
She finally got tired of the independent shops BS and took it to the dealer.
The dealer found the water pump impeller had come off the shaft.
The dealer charged her for a new water pump (plastic impeller) and the labor to do a timing belt job.
I have the original service department receipt for this repair, (and about 120 additional pages of every service the dealer ever did) and everything is noted on it.
The water pump that failed was an OEM unit purchased directly from VW with all the timing belt parts.
I just did my timing belt in July and made sure to order a metal impeller water pump.
I do not know if it makes much of a difference in lifespan or durability but I would not skimp on what little price difference there was between the plastic and metal impeller versions.
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
You are telling me that when the plastic impeller cracks and breaks or comes off the shaft thats not a failure? Yeah thats a failure here on planet earth, so lol@ you living in a fantasy world.
LNXGUY
Top Post Dawg
The odds of the impeller coming off the shaft are extremely low, plastic/metal doesn't matter. Now the bearings going bad and the WP leaking down the front of the engine is a reality. Most failures are because of this, not the impeller. Keep regurgitating stuff you read on the internet to make yourself feel smart.
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
I guess jealousy is what becomes of people living in canada-A...Over here in the United States of America we get good metal bearings and our vw water pumps never leak, so we can again blame vw for supplying canada with crap bearings but apparently great impellers, hey maybe you all get plastic bearings? thanks vw!!!...keep regurgitating stuff you read on the internet to make yourself feel smart.
LNXGUY
Top Post Dawg
I don't know if I should laugh or cry at your utter stupidity.
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madcowintucson
Veteran Member
Sounds like a personal problem...now then, the next thing I would really like (to do to make myself sound smart), is regurgitate some ideas I read on the internet. So I have looped in a fuel cooler back to the tank (Pretty smart huh). I mounted the cooler in front of ac condenser (also pretty smart huh). Also installing a pressure gauge would be great, I just want to get an accurate reading of pressure at the ip pump (pretty smart huh), could also be useful in diagnosing issues if they come up, like faulty canadian water pumps with plastic bearings being sold down here in the united states (pretty smart huh)...ok yes please laugh at that last part I was trying to be funny
Anyone ever source a 5/16 or 8mm fuel sender adaptor? I can do it with AN fittings but just want to splice in at this point... and for those of you who do not know what I am talking about, its an inline adaptor with a 1/8 inch national pipe thread female...thanks!
Anyone ever source a 5/16 or 8mm fuel sender adaptor? I can do it with AN fittings but just want to splice in at this point... and for those of you who do not know what I am talking about, its an inline adaptor with a 1/8 inch national pipe thread female...thanks!
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LNXGUY
Top Post Dawg
I'll trade you some of our waterpumps for your lower fuel prices... deal?
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
Iam more if a metal guy, but ill be happy to sell you some of my free vegetable oil at just above my cost
Question, I wonder if the airtex warranty cover veggie oil use??
Question, I wonder if the airtex warranty cover veggie oil use??
I am now having the exact problem I was trying to avoid by installing a PD lift pump. If I do a wide open throttle run in 3rd gear the car pulls all the way to redline very hard with a very rapid rate of acceleration. When I shift into fourth and go wide open throttle the RPM's rise quickly until I hit around 4100 rpms rpms and they just level off there and won't go any higher even at full throttle on a long stretch of roadn I believe is a fueling issue. I have sent logs to my tuner but I am still waiting for response.
LNXGUY
Top Post Dawg
If it pulls all the way to redline in 3rd, it should pull all the way to redline in 4th. If it were a fueling issue, it should happen in any gear.
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
try this, can you measure timing advance and air intake temp? if so, there may be a clue there, i wouldn't not believe this to be lack of fuel, but it could be temp related, either fuel or air and ecm retarding timing. when its cool out i can rev higher than when its 100 degrees out, but to be fair i have no inter-cooler back yet so my engine is a dog after about 3500 rpm and definitely not hit redline lol... guess you can always try and measure actual fuel pressure at ip see if it run into a 0 psi or vacuum condition.
I thought the same thing. The only variable is the load the engine is under. In 4th you are going much faster than 3rd at the same rpm so it should take more fuel. That is the only idea I could come up with for a reason it is happening.
Anyone else have any ideas?
While my runs were done at night, it still was 90 degrees outside. Could I possibly be looking at a heat soaked intercooler? Would it be that drastic of a drop off?
I an running a 17/22 at 27 psi with a factory intercooler.
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madcowintucson
Veteran Member
Sure, the fuel into the injectors is more, but the actual fuel flow into the pump is actually the same rpms for rpms, however the flow back to the tank will be less. Heat-soak is definitely a possibility and that's what i was getting at earlier. the load on the motor to overcome at high speed is greater, I suspect you may not have the power to rev fast above 4100 rpms in 4th, i know my car will not get there fast at all, but i could be completely wrong about your setup. On that note, have you checked your fuel filter at all? I met a guy at the airport one night when it was very cold and his car would barely idle, he tells me he just ran b100 and even changed the filter, but the car wouldn't hardly rev, i pulled out vagcom and at idle everything was normal, he had another new filter in his car, i suggested we do a swap and i would stay and help him, after the swap to the new filter the car ran normally and revved freely. All that old me was the fuel was not gelled in any way and the filter was plugged, a common side effect after running b100. Also if you floor the engine do you see black smoke? if there is never black smoke then the engine is not over-fueled, if you floor it in 4th and see black smoke then obviously the injectors are dumping enough fuel to run rich. i can tell you that in my car without an inter-cooler i do not have enough air density to burn all the fuel and therefore have limited power potential, also egt goes up, but this is only in 4th and 5th gear on the highway, in 1st through 3rd i have enough gear multiplication to spin the turbo at faster rpms thus allowing more air to enter and exit the engine/free'r breathing. So i am dumping more fuel through the injectors but the vehicle revs fast enough to maintain a different air density. 20 psi at 1000 rpm is very different than 20 psi at 5000 rpm.
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My fuel filter has less than 600 miles on it. I can not tell if there is much as far as black smoke because I have only driven it at night.
The thing that is so confusing is how quick and relentlessly the thing accelerates in third. The rpm's climb from 2k to redline so fast it is amazing.
The thing that is so confusing is how quick and relentlessly the thing accelerates in third. The rpm's climb from 2k to redline so fast it is amazing.
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
well, if it is like you say, and then just whimps out in 4th its weird. try 4th see how that goes? i am sure if you can read the sensors it will shed light on any issues. I get up to 30 psi in 2nd through 5th, but no power..why? no air density, just lots of pressure. if i put on an inter-cooler and the power does not improve then i am stumped. But i think the lift pump in your case is not the culprit.
GTSLOW
Veteran Member
No offense but you look like a complete jack *** right now.
madcowintucson
Veteran Member
Well none taken. No offense, but you should learn how to read in context and learn to regulate your personal feelings, I know jealousy can I a b****. What the hell does any of this all have to with lift pumps people!!! Ya'll need a life outside tdi club!
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