Just purchased 03 alh 335k . Some issues

Ill see what tomorrows tests bring, got like 3 different tests to do, and with snow /kids it may take a few days to get them all done

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jdawgster said:

Ill see what tomorrows tests bring, got like 3 different tests to do, and with snow /kids it may take a few days to get them all done

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Good luck

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Well just replacing the lines did nothing :-( ... so before i went into work i took the vacuum line coming from the pump and put it in a t with the ball and the n75, ill test this on my way home from work, next ill take the ball out of the equation then ill swap the n18 for the n75 . Or just order a new n75 from the amazon for 30$

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Did all the tests

Tldr; its the turbo or vacuum pump

Test 1.) Swap out the stock vacuum lines for 3mm silicone lines
Result 1.) Still overboosing to almost 35psi (2 bar).

Test 2.) Remove vacuum line from other valves just ball and n75
Result 2.) Still overboosing to almost 35psi (2 bar).

Test 3.) Remove ball vacuum pump into n75
Result 3.) Still overboosing to almost 35psi (2 bar).

Test 4.) Swap out other valves for n75 ( still vacuum pump line into top of valve turbo line bottom of valve)( leaving others unplugged and swapped them 1 at a time)
Result 4.) Still overboosing to almost 35psi (2 bar) and cel.

What do you guys think?
I have a new n75 valve on order but i don't think that will fix it, what is the vacuum pressure supposed to be off the pump it seems very weak

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Have you been able. To measure what your vacuum is at idle yet?

No im going to buy a gauge this week ... i would use my boost gauge but it has no vacuum

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OK, let us know what the vacuum is at the pump and at the N75. Measure at the tee where the big and small port are off the hard rubber line, then measure at the inlet to the N75, they should read the same, and should be at least 20inhg.

Also tee into the line going to the turbo.
At idle it should be 10 inches (or so)
When you take off it should drop a bit.

Last, take the bottom hose off the N75 and go for a ride to see if it helps.

The bottom line should go to the bottom of the air filter through a tee.
If the tube going into the air filter is plugged it can allow to much vacuum to the actuator.
You don't want to leave this hose open for long, can suck dirt into the vacuum controls.

wonneber said:

Also tee into the line going to the turbo.
At idle it should be 10 inches (or so)
When you take off it should drop a bit.

Last, take the bottom hose off the N75 and go for a ride to see if it helps.

The bottom line should go to the bottom of the air filter through a tee.
If the tube going into the air filter is plugged it can allow to much vacuum to the actuator.
You don't want to leave this hose open for long, can suck dirt into the vacuum controls.

Click to expand...

That may have happened, the hose just vents to the engine bay, the po had replaced the air filter with an ebay cone filter, i have a new boost gauge and a new n75 valve coming , and looking for a cheap vacuum gauge , think i may just go to harbor freight or pepboys when the other gauge arrives.

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New n75, no change. Still on the search for a vacuum gauge that will fit on thay small of a hose, only two things left are vnt veins, and vacuum pump ? Or am i missing anything else ? ... i was about 2 days late on getting a used turbo so i could clean it and swap it in then clean mine and have mine as a spare , or swap it back in and have the used one as a spare ...
Any one know of anyone selling a turbo cheap in the albany ny area?

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Sounds like the turbo actuator is getting full vacuum all the time. More that 18 psi sustained should throw in into limp mode and turn off the turbo.



Something is seriously wrong. Check your vacuum line plumbing.

turbocharged798 said:

Sounds like the turbo actuator is getting full vacuum all the time. More that 18 psi sustained should throw in into limp mode and turn off the turbo.



Something is seriously wrong. Check your vacuum line plumbing.

Click to expand...

I just redid it and the vacuum lines go from the pump to a t to the ball and the top nv75 (egr deleted) then the middle connection goes to the turbo then bottom connection goes to an air filter i got just so its not hanging out in the engine bay ... i think the veins are stuck

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jdawgster said:

I just redid it and the vacuum lines go from the pump to a t to the ball and the top nv75 (egr deleted) then the middle connection goes to the turbo then bottom connection goes to an air filter i got just so its not hanging out in the engine bay ... i think the veins are stuck

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I thought you verified that they moved with vacuum???

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Its pretty easy to push down on the actuator linkage and see if it moves. A mityvac or similar is really useful for checking actuator operation.

turbocharged798 said:

Its pretty easy to push down on the actuator linkage and see if it moves. A mityvac or similar is really useful for checking actuator operation.

Click to expand...

Yea mine does not move with my fingers i didnt push overly hard because i didnt wsnt to break something ...

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WildChild80 said:

I thought you verified that they moved with vacuum???

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Click to expand...

No i didnt get a mity vac yet, waiting on my non-prime shipment to come in from the amazon ... they didnt move with my fingers though, how do you take the actuator off? It might just be the actuator ? Its kind of rusty !!

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Has anyone posted a grocery list of self sustainment tools like a mighty vac and tb tools and the anti tamper bit for the IP...I like the throw in vagcom but if you can borrow a cable you're good

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I have vagcom, have boost gauge (with no vacuum) , i dont have any timing belt tools yet, it has recently been done.

New n75 , new vacuum lines, new glowplugs, new suspension, new ebreak cables. Just trying to make this car a reliable daily.

I have all the torx bits and hex bits.

No clue about anti tamper?


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WildChild80 said:

Has anyone posted a grocery list of self sustainment tools like a mighty vac and tb tools and the anti tamper bit for the IP...I like the throw in vagcom but if you can borrow a cable you're good

Click to expand...

It's pretty easy to find all the tools on this site if you search "per job" so to speak.
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=569892

I'm going to make this my sig:
"The best way to search TDIclub is to use bing/google and include "site:forums.tdiclub.com" with your search terms"

jdawgster said:

I have vagcom, have boost gauge (with no vacuum) , i dont have any timing belt tools yet, it has recently been done.

New n75 , new vacuum lines, new glowplugs, new suspension, new ebreak cables. Just trying to make this car a reliable daily.

I have all the torx bits and hex bits.

No clue about anti tamper?


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Click to expand...

It's the thing you need to adjust the IQ and for changing injection pump seals

Get one from metal man when you need one...

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"It might just be the actuator ? Its kind of rusty !!"

That's my bet. Especially in view of the amount of salt on the roads
in upstate NY. Vanes may or may not be stuck.

You might be able to get it working if you pull it off and polish the

rod. Otherwise:


https://www.idparts.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=turbo+actuator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G74B23Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wXjoCbX1EAJRG

Would this one work?

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Buy at your own risk. That is a genuine chinese copy. Here's a guy that learned an expensive lesson in buying these kinds of parts.



http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=495362


Here's a real actuator.


https://metalmanparts.com/product.sc?productId=352&categoryId=-1


Your call.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ x10