DavidMTroyer
Veteran Member
Is that snow under your hood?
I know you have everything put back together, but to answer your question (for the benefit of others reading this thread) about the torque look at the first pic on the fixmyvw link. It shows the metalnerd tool for just this situation.Correct. PO had shoulder nut on top.
Back together. Much better. Note 2" lift spacer.
Bearing sits like a washer on top of the strut shaft shoulder.
How are you supposed to torque these things to 44lbs? Can't hold the 7mm hex still with any kind of torque wrench on either nut...
My thoughts exactly. Spark plug sockets have a hex head on one end, so you can put a wrench (or a crow's foot) on it.Alternatively, if you use a spark-plug socket on the nut, you can make use of a crows foot to get the torque wrench on.
I had 7mm hex on top. Think they were Bilstiens.
With the spark plug socket, my 3" hex driver socket was too short to reach - would need at least a 4".
But even if I were counter-holding the hex through the top of a spark plug socket, best I could do would be a large open end on the top of the socket, right? Don't have a crow's foot adapter for my TW, but even if I did, wouldn't that throw off the torque reading?
Yes, slightly depending on how much longer it was.Don't have a crow's foot adapter for my TW, but even if I did, wouldn't that throw off the torque reading?
Come on now, you never used a 1/2 inch ratchet as a hammer?Pretty sure that's how you're supposed to use the metalnerd tool, as well.
Correct. Crows foot goes at a 90 degree angle. If you put it "inline" it will be MATERIALLY off. Don't do that.My understanding is that if the crow's foot is at a 90 degree angle from the torque wrench it won't affect torque spec. Pretty sure that's how you're supposed to use the metalnerd tool, as well.