Coolant temp sensor P1256 etc- will not clear

Bletourneau

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
Edmonton Alberta
TDI
2000 Jetta tdi
Hey guys. Been a long time since I've been in a tdi and been on these forums. I've had a 03 golf tdi and a 2000 Jetta tdi in the past. I have vcds. My dads been driving these cars for the better part of 20 years so I'd like to think we are fairly capable when it comes to them. Anyways enough of the back story.

I recently started driving one of my dads beater cars, car in question being a 2000 Jetta tdi 5 speed. ALH engine code. Using it as a commuter for back and forth to work.

The engine light was on when I started driving it and it was throwing a code for temp sensor p1256 and for the glow plugs originally. I stripped apart the glowplug harness, cleaned all the connections, re did the main harness power wires , cleaned all the plugs and benched tested them via battery and multimeter, and reinstalled everything and all was well in that department.

The car was showing no heat on the dash but via vcds in measuring blocks would show what I assumed to be fairly accurate coolant temperature. Changed out the temp sensor last night with a green and brass bodied coolant sensor. Reinstalled everything and started it up. Dash hest gauge is now working and will go up to center 90 celcius after a highway run without issues.

However the issue I'm having now is that vcds will only show a max coolant temp of 25-30 degrees celcius, even right after the highway drive.

The other odd thing was right after the highway drive, both fuel temp and coolant temp were reading identical temperatures at 24.3 degrees celcius.

I'm also 99% sure that even with the coolant temperature sensor unplugged, the temp remained the same via vcds. I was under the impression it will show a maxxed out minimum temperature and will default the plugs to cycle for 20 seconds, is this correct? I can confirm the other 1% question tomorrow when o have a chance to work on the car again.

Right now it seems regardless of temperate , the glow plugs will cycle for about 10 seconds. The car seems to fire up and idle fine without issues. Previously before the sensor change the car would start up and high idle at about 1500 give or take for a quick half second then come back down to 950 rpm give or take.

Just looking for advice at this point. Should I assume the sensor is good and start looking at wiring harnesses, or assume that I maybe got a fault temp sensor which is possible.

Thanks in advance
 

Bletourneau

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
Edmonton Alberta
TDI
2000 Jetta tdi
Check the connector and wiring to the CTS.

Do you have any insight to the path for the wiring? The connector appears to be fine, but could be corroded inside the connector where the pins are for all I know. I was contemplating going junkyard diving and grabbing the connector and about 2-3 feet of wire and just replacing it for ****s and giggles. Worst case scenario I have a length of wire with the connector for testing the sensor in the car without pulling the sensor to bench test it
 
Last edited:

cleaver

Veteran Member
Joined
May 8, 2006
Location
Berwick, Nova Scotia
TDI
None - did own '01 and '02 Jetta TDI
Your CTS provides two signals, one to your ECU that VCDS reads and one to your cluster dummy gauge.

So what you are saying is: Your old CTS gave a good ECU reading, but a bad cluster reading. Your new CTS gives a good cluster reading, but a bad ECU reading. Could be a bad replacement CTS?? I would hate to swap it back out with the old one to see though....lost coolant....arrrggg!!
 

Bletourneau

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
Edmonton Alberta
TDI
2000 Jetta tdi
Your CTS provides two signals, one to your ECU that VCDS reads and one to your cluster dummy gauge.

So what you are saying is: Your old CTS gave a good ECU reading, but a bad cluster reading. Your new CTS gives a good cluster reading, but a bad ECU reading. Could be a bad replacement CTS?? I would hate to swap it back out with the old one to see though....lost coolant....arrrggg!!
Yes, originally the vcds would show a resonably accurate coolant temperature and the dash gauge wouldn't even budge. So I replaced the coolant and the sensor with a new oem part last night and now the Ecu is seeing 30* celcius max and the dash gauge appears to be registering correctly. The p1256 code can be cleared but comes back instantly.

So at this point
- the new sensor is bad and is just faulty out of the box
- the connector end is corroded/ damaged ( doesn't appear that way)
- or the wiring is damaged somewhere.

My question is basically I'm looking for :
- a graph/chart that has test values ohms vs various temperatures so I can check the sensor
- wiring schematics so I can trace the wiring back and see if it's damaged
- wiring schematics so I can measure resistance between one end of the wire to the other.

I also was hoping to find out if I unplug the coolant sensor, what temp should I be seeing in vcds ?
 

Bletourneau

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
Edmonton Alberta
TDI
2000 Jetta tdi
Ok so I confirmed today that with the connector unhooked from the coolant tempt sensor, my coolant temp in vcds stays the same at roughly 25-30 degrees celcius. In the shop at about room temp of 22-24 degrees celcius I get a resistance of about 2200-2400 ohms across the g62 side of the sensor. Seems fairly accurate given apparently 1500-2500 is spec for 30 degrees celcius as per the service manual. Sensor is ok.

I went junkyarding this morning and gathered 2-3 harnesses for the coolant temp sensor with connector. Picked the best one, cleaned it up and confirmed no resistance from wiring end to connector end on each terminal, nice and clean.

Spliced it into the car and checked my connections. 1 and 3 being 5v reference and 2 and 4 being ground. 2 and 4 both have good ground connections. 3 has 5volt with the ignition on, and 1 has .9volts with the ignition on.

Followed it back to the t14a connector(pin 4). Checked from the connector back to the coolant sensor plug. Good wire, like .2 ohms resistance. Checked with ignition on pin 4 st the t14a connector and still only .9volts present.

So currently I'm pulling the wiper arms and the cowl and am going straight to the ecu.

Is there any other connections in between t14a and the ecu I can check for my voltage drop ?
 

Alchemist

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2007
Location
Lethbridge, Alberta
TDI
'04 ALH Golf
Here is what I found in the wiring diagrams.

G62-3 Blue/Brown connects directly to T121-112 ECU
G62-4 Brown/Green connects directly to T121-104 ECU
There are no other connectors in these paths.

G2-1 Violet to T14a-4 then to T32-8 Blue connector on Instrument Cluster
G2-2 Brown/White to T14a-9 then to T32-7 Blue connector on Instrument Cluster

HTH
 

wonneber

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 12, 2011
Location
Monroe, NY, USA
TDI
2014 Jetta Sportwagon,2003 Jetta 261K Sold but not forgotten
G62-3 Blue/Brown connects directly to T121-112 ECU
G62-4 Brown/Green connects directly to T121-104 ECU
There are no other connectors in these paths.
Same in my 03.
Not sure if 2000 ECU uses the same pins but if the wire colors are the same at that end it would be a good test.
Test for continuity of each end to end.

Last, 'pin 4 at the t14a connector and still only .9volts present' might be wrong.
But, from Ross Tech: 'P1256 - Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit (G62): Open / Short to B+' confuses me.
Can this mean the 5 volts is 'Short to B+' ?
I think you are on the right track tracing this one.
I would unplug the ECU and sensor to check connectivity through each wire and if either is shorted to ground.
 

Tdijarhead

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Nov 10, 2013
Location
Lawrenceville PA
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
Where did the new sensor come from? My first thought is that it’s bad out of the box.
 

Bletourneau

Member
Joined
Dec 14, 2017
Location
Edmonton Alberta
TDI
2000 Jetta tdi
Where did the new sensor come from? My first thought is that it’s bad out of the box.

Oem part. It's fine. I tested it.

Either way I changed the pigtail end and dicked around with the wiring and ecm
Connections all day and it's working all of a sudden. So either I fixed it somehow, or there was an intermittent short that's been resolved temporarily.
 
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