TIMING belt: FLENNOR, 63137x25mm

TIMING belt: FLENNOR, 63137x25mm, 4112V242, 250AG

Any one used this belt for 96 passat TDI. I ordered a CONTI but they sent me "FLENNOR" made in Germany. I plan to return for CONTI.

The Flennor is supposed to be OEM in GErmany. I did a post on the "rennlist" and some Germans got back to me with the TDI needs a better than average reliable belt and Flennor falls into this catagory. Just wondering if anyone else has used it?

redtdi96 said:

The Flennor is supposed to be OEM in GErmany. I did a post on the "rennlist" and some Germans got back to me with the TDI needs a better than average reliable belt and Flennor falls into this catagory. Just wondering if anyone else has used it?

Click to expand...

That sounds good to me. I just got a Flennor timing belt for my TDI Jetta engine code ALH. It looks similar in dimensions and thickness as the one I took out, but the material that is made from feels different in my hands, kinda more "plasticky" I've heard that the Porsche circles don't like them, they say that the tooth spacing is not correct. I did compared the spacing with my old belt and they are perfectly identical. So if the german forums say that Flennor belts are of higher quality, it must be true, as they have more TDI's that we will ever have, especially now in the post scandal times.

I wouldn't use it. I had a Flennor belt on my B4 when I bought it: It was starting to fray less than 30K into the timing belt interval. I replaced it with a Conti.

what indigo said, the ones i've seen seem pretty crappy ... they are cheaper for a reason

Well, I installed the Flennor belt, is what I had on hand at the time I did the job. Fit and tooth spacing are perfect, car runs like a swiss watch. I will keep an eye on that belt anyway, it is nice to have an inspection window. By the way, I made a cam locking tool from square tubing, very simple and easy to make, worked like a charm. I will also work on a crank locking tool. I envisioned it as a rather long aluminum bar that will have 3 holes, 2 for bolting it to the block and a center hole to bolt into the crank sprocket. There are threaded holes at the front and back of the block (or the oil pan, can't remember which). Those can be used as anchors to lock the crank sprocket with just one bolt. This way the timing belt can be installed without loosing the TDC spot, so no time is wasted checking for TDC after every move. I'll post some pics of the cam lock after I measure the dimensions between its 2 holes and the position of the center flap that inserts into the cam slot.

SmoothVW said:

This way the timing belt can be installed without loosing the TDC spot, so no time is wasted checking for TDC after every move.

Click to expand...

Probably spend more time installing it than it takes to check once before torquing cam bolt and again after.

And wouldn't you check anyway even with it just to be sure it didn't slip???

KLXD said:

Probably spend more time installing it than it takes to check once before torquing cam bolt and again after.

And wouldn't you check anyway even with it just to be sure it didn't slip???

Click to expand...

I think the most annoying thing is when the crank moves and your mark is not on the money, so you must check again if the belt is on the right spot, at times you think it is, but the 2 crank turns to verify don't end on the mark, so you must undo and re-do. This can certainly be time consuming and leaves room for error. Locking the crank will eliminate all of that, even if installing the lock takes a few minutes. Here is a pic of the cam lock I fashioned out of square tubing. It bolts on the 2 upper threads that anchor the vacuum pump, so it is not necessary to take the valve cover out, that saves a lot of time. [/IMG]

Photo did not display.