UNOFFICIAL Adblue Heater Element Failure Thread

VeeDubTDI

Wanderluster, Traveler, TDIClub Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 2, 2000
Location
Springfield, VA
TDI
‘18 Tesla Model 3D+, ‘14 Cadillac ELR, ‘13 Fiat 500e
UNOFFIAL Adblue Heater Element Failure Thread

Year: 2012
Mileage: 85k
Warning Light(s): CEL
Code(s): P202A
Any symptoms or problems before diagnosis: none
Repair Time: first quote 3-5 business days for parts. Then at 5 days the service rep said 2-3 weeks because the part was coming from Germany. Then at 3 weeks the service rep said "the part is on backorder indefinitely--nobody across the county can get this part in!"
Any pertinent info from dealer: Volkswagen of Boise (Idaho) is who I took the car to. They have been very helpful, but unfortunately cannot get the part in to fix my Passat.

I was originally told that it would be unsafe to drive the car without the AdBlue heater fixed but that statement was revised when I went to pick up the car after 4 weeks and the parts still with unknown ETA.
The service rep said to call VWoA and add my name to the (apparently growing) list of folks having this same issue.

$1200 was the approximate estimate for repairs.

VW should eat this--especially if there is now such a severe shortage of the part?!

Also, I was informed by the service rep when I went to pick up my Passat that after driving it unfixed for 400 miles I would hit some sort of hard-stop because the issue wasn't resolved and the car would not be able start. huh?

Your service rep is talking about the no-start countdown, which is very obvious when it's active. A CEL for the heater or temp sensor won't cause a no-start countdown in the summer time. It might be a problem in the winter if the fluid can't be thawed.

Also, the comment about being unsafe to drive is total and complete BS. They're just being fear mongers in an attempt to part you and your money.
 

NSTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Location
Nova Scotia
TDI
15 Passat
NSTDI, though the heater element supply chain should've been resolved find out from your dealer if they can confirm that they already have the part or the supply line can confirm the stock to dock delivery of the component. If they can't confidently answer then take precaution

Good idea.

Don
So I got my car in today for the P202B code, it needs a new main engine computer. Its ordered, car works fine so far, CEL still on. My car is over the 80,000KM warranty at 86,000, but its supposed to be covered under the drivetrain warranty.


Don
 
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elsid

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2013
Location
Little Elm, TX
TDI
2012 Passat TDI SEL
Had to replace my heating element in early March here in Dallas, at 78k miles. Couldn't get it inspected, since check engine light was on. So, had to part with the $815.00 to get it replaced at the dealership. My regular mechanic stated they could not get the heating element by itself, it was only sold with a new tank, which he thought was wrong. That would have been just over $1200.
 

NSTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Location
Nova Scotia
TDI
15 Passat
NSTDI, though the heater element supply chain should've been resolved find out from your dealer if they can confirm that they already have the part or the supply line can confirm the stock to dock delivery of the component. If they can't confidently answer then take precaution



So I got my car in today for the P202B code, it needs a new main engine computer. Its ordered, car works fine so far, CEL still on. My car is over the 80,000KM warranty at 86,000, but its supposed to be covered under the drivetrain warranty.


Don
Update, they called me back and are looking at doing a software upgrade, as recommended by VW.

Don
 

jafische

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Location
Pace, FL
TDI
2013 (A3) TDI SEL Premium (Reflex Silver / Moonrock)
Quick question. I was looking at the photos on your photobucket and reading the instructions. THANK YOU BY THE WAY.
I live in FL so I am going the easy way out!
.
I need clarification... on pix 2307 (first pix), you show the purple and brown in front that goes to backside black and white twisted pair wires that go back to the tank with the heat shrinked resistors (correct, looks like you put one in series with white, one in series with black).
In the write up it says:
[*]From the other side of the plug, cut the wires that are going into the tank (Black & White wires) . Make sure to leave enough slack for the resistor or thermistor.
----Makes sense, Cut the black and white twisted pair.
.
[*]Solder & heatshrink a 10K ohm resistor or 10k OHM Thermistor to the cut wires. Make sure that the connections are made back to the computer and not to the tank. Leave the wires from the tank cut off and just use some tape or heat shrink to protect them as they will never be used again.
-----this is where I need help, the words and picture I get confused...
.
So I am trying to understand, the wires that go back to the tank are black and white. Correct?
.
Then it says to make sure the connections are made back to the computer and not to the tank. But the black and white are to the tank? If I leave them cut off and tape them, I will have a black wire, 10K resistor, open end.... and a white wire, 10K resistor, open end. Thus an open circuit. I am overthinking...
.
.
[*]Solder & heatshrink a 10K ohm resistor or 10k OHM Thermistor to the cut wires. Make sure that the connections are made back to the computer and not to the tank. Leave the wires from the tank cut off and just use some tape or heat shrink to protect them as they will never be used again.
.
I know I am just confused somewhere.
Is this what It should look like:
Purple-PLUG-white------=10K=----white------------TANK
Brown-PLUG-black------=10K=----black-------------TANK

Essentially adding 20K Ohm to the existing loop. BUT, it said to cut off the tank wires and tape them off, so I starting thinking...
OR:
Purple-PLUG-white------=10K=----white------/cut\tie to black xxxx tape----TANK
Brown-PLUG-black------=10K=----black------/cut\tie to white xxxx tape----TANK

Essentially making a 20K Ohm loop back through black/white to purple/brown.
.
.
.Thank you again for the write up. I am anticipating my dealer sticking it to me and I just want to hush the light.
.
.
Hello,
This is my first post as a new member to TDI club.
I recently had the Check Engine Light come on with the P205c/P205b fault codes. I did some extensive research because I did not want to spend $475 on a new part to fix this as my Passat just went out of warranty.
The failed temperature sensor is integrated inside the AD Blue Tank and you cannot change this sensor out at the component level. The part number that contains this sensor is 561-198-970.
This temp sensor monitors the temperature of the DEF fluid and if it drops below -11 Degrees Fahrenheit then it activates the heater inside this tank. Since I live in Texas I don't really have to worry about -11 degree temperatures here. There are two ways to fix this issue yourself if you do or do not live in a climate where the weather gets below -11.
before you start, purchase a 10k Ohm Resistor or Automotive grade 10k Ohm Submersible Thermistor, Solder, heatshrink.
Mouser Electronics or eBay are two places to find these components.
Once you have all your parts ready, Here are the steps to take:
  • Use the jack in your trunk to lift up the rear passenger side until the tire just barely comes off the ground.
  • Remove all the torx screws that are around the rear fender well.
    There should be 5 of them if I'm not mistaken.
  • Pull out the plastic part of your lower bumper/quarter panel.
    Just enough to give you a few extra inches for removing the tank.
  • The tank is held in place by 3 bolts, remove them and drop the tank down. (Be ready to catch it if it's full of DEF as it will be heavy)
  • Find the Wire harness that is secured to the filler neck of the tank.
  • Pins 3 & 4 are the temp sensor wires connected to the failed temp sensor inside the tank. They are purple/yellow and Brown and on the other side of the connector going into the tank the colors are Black & White.
Easy Fix option if you're lazy or live in a warm weather climate:
  • From the other side of the plug, cut the wires that are going into the tank (Black & White wires) . Make sure to leave enough slack for the resistor or thermistor.
  • Solder & heatshrink a 10K ohm resistor or 10k OHM Thermistor to the cut wires. Make sure that the connections are made back to the computer and not to the tank. Leave the wires from the tank cut off and just use some tape or heat shrink to protect them as they will never be used again.
For Cold Climate Areas:
  • Take a picture of the tank before you start, ensure you know the position of all the cables, hoses and top pump position.
  • Remove all the harness, Hoses and Pump from the Top of the tank.
  • Unscrew the Top of the tank and remove the rubber grommet and plastic circular housing from the tank. The circular housing is locked in, just twist it counter clock wise and it will become detached from the tank.
  • Find/trace the wires inside the tank that are associated with pins 3 & 4 on the outside of the tank. (black & white wires.)
  • Using a Submersible Automotive Grade 10k Ohm thermistor,
  • Solder/Heatshrink the thermistor to these wires and make sure the probe part of the thermistor is located in the small part of the tank with the other sensors. Some Drilling may be necessary.
As I live in Texas, I did not pursue or try the Cold Climate option I described above.
Also, as I was troubleshooting this issue, I actually drilled a small hole in the plastic and extended the wires so I could access them from my trunk when I was trying to figure out the correct resistor to use.
At the time I was not sure what resistor size to use. After trying different values. I borrowed a friends 2014 TDI and used my meter to find the value VW uses for this component.
The 10k Ohm Resistance reading is equal to 25 degrees Celsius or 77 degrees Fahrenheit. This resistance reading will make the computer think the DEF fluid is at this temperature.
In the pictures attached I show the connections to look for.
(See Links below)
If you don't want to drop the tank, another option is to cut the wires from the connector by the rear wheel and add the resistor or thermistor from there. It also uses pins 3 & 4 on one of the wire harnesses.
Once I added the 10K Ohm resistor, it took me about 4 days of everyday driving before my Check Engine Light went out. I'm not sure of the exact number but the computer needs to go through a certain number of "driving cycles" before it realizes the problem is fixed and the light goes off.
One more thing to note if your adblue tank is full, unplug the harness/hose and dump all the DEF fluid into a large clean container.
This will help out as its very hard to get the tank bolted back into position. Once the nearly empty tank is bolted back in place, just re-fill it as you normally would. I use the small Filler bottle from VW. I have a hole cut out in the bottom of it and use a funnel to re-fill that small bottle. Once its full I push the bottle down to let the DEF enter the tank. Repeat until your full....
I hope this post helps.
No sense in spending close to $500 when you can replace this with a resistor or thermistor that costs less than a dollar. (And an hour or two of your time)
~Russ
Pictures to help you:
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j215/ntrussellh/IMG_2307.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j215/ntrussellh/IMG_2305.jpg
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j215/ntrussellh/IMG_2303.jpg
 

totalfixation

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2014
Location
Orange County
TDI
Passat TDI SEL NMS 2012
Does anyone know how to get VW of America to accept the fix under the California emissions warranty policy? They are still denying me coverage event though I am under still under CPO warranty.
 

pedorro

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2014
Location
Simi Valley, CA
TDI
2013 Touareg Sport
Does anyone know how to get VW of America to accept the fix under the California emissions warranty policy? They are still denying me coverage event though I am under still under CPO warranty.
Perhaps the CARB has a grievance process you can follow -- I'd be interested to know. The heater element may be tricky since it technically does not affect emissions (though I'm entirely sure what happens to the system once the DEF freezes).
 

totalfixation

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2014
Location
Orange County
TDI
Passat TDI SEL NMS 2012
Perhaps the CARB has a grievance process you can follow -- I'd be interested to know. The heater element may be tricky since it technically does not affect emissions (though I'm entirely sure what happens to the system once the DEF freezes).
Sorry for my ignorance but what is CARB exactly?
 

NSTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Location
Nova Scotia
TDI
15 Passat
Adblue is totally about emissions, why else have it and why have a heater if you don't need it for Adblue. California or not, I guess a class action would get VW's attention? Should not be needed as how can you argue before a judge that Adblue is not 100% about emissions?

With what we have seen so far about the possible path to follow to check out and fix an Adblus/DEF CEL, it could be the heater in the Adblue tank, a sensor for the heater in the tank, the heater on the Adblue "fuel" line, a sensor for same, a main computer for the engine, or a software glitch.

Add up the potential cost to do all of that?

On warranty, VW will spend a lot of money. Off warranty, their customers will spend a lot of money. And possibly a lot of trips to the dealer. And there goes the potential sale of another Adblue VW to anyone with these problems, or anyone who finds out about these problems.

And I don't care if lots of other vehicles have the same issues with Adblue, I won't buy them either.

Don
 

gprabhu

Active member
Joined
Apr 24, 2013
Location
Sugar Land, TX
TDI
2013 TDI SE
Year: My colleagues 2012 and my 2013 (Both from Greater Houston area)
Mileage: Around 63K
Warning Light(s) CEL
Code(s) P205B
Any symptoms or problems before diagnosis: Lots of regens
Repair Time: N/A
Any pertinent info from dealer N/A

My colleagues threw the code yesterday, my car today. Terribly coincidental (or maybe not). I haven't called VWoA or dealer yet. My colleague and I discussed his car today, and BAM, my car probably overheard our conversation.

This is terrible.
 
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ribbittingcat

New member
Joined
Dec 18, 2014
Location
Portland, OR
TDI
2014 Passat TDI SEL
2013 Passat TDI SEL and I just got a P202B code @ 35700 miles. Took it to dealer for warranty repair and they can't get the part for 2 weeks. Now I have a 2014 Jetta TDI Loaner. :(
 

Djmerce

Member
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Florida
TDI
2012 Passat Tdi SE
I have 12 passat tdi with 29k .First I had a software upgrade then oxygen sensor then one day my car ac/hazard (turn signals) and steering buttons stop working,on way to dealer I hit pot hole and everything back to normal,now I have def heater problem (pressure sensor) waiting for part to arrive at dealer.I feel like It's lemon or just cheap parts vw using.I forgot to mention recall for headlight.
 
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Handyman

New member
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Location
Brighton, ON
TDI
'12 Passat, '11 MB Sprinter
12 Passat, owned 2 months, purchased from VW dealer.
2 Faults Found:
9656 - Control Circuit for Reductant Tank Heating
P202B 00 [237] - Short to GND
MIL ON - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00000001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 94375 km
Date: 2015.07.14
Time: 17:35:01

15733 - ROD - Unknown Error Code
- 00 [096]
Intermittent - Not Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear
Freeze Frame:

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Getting local price tomorrow.
...VW OEM part delivered overnight to dealer (had to provide VIN) installed by a friend for $400 all in. He said all warehouses showing 0 in stock, but it was delivered from area in US that the passat is assembled...
 
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WolfgangTDI

New member
Joined
Jul 16, 2015
Location
Connecticut
TDI
2012 Touareg TDI Lux
2012 Touareg Adblue Heater, Happy ending, Kudos to VW America

New to this forum, but thought I would post my experience on this subject as just another data point.
"wolfgang" exhibited CEL at about 59,500 miles.
I scanned it myself and got a 'heater low' error.
Searched online and saw repair kit from Parts.com for about $250, delivered.
Also read how to do it myself (mechanic time x 2 = my time = Saturday morning)
I also came to two other conclusions.
a. Not covered by federal 80k emissions warranty as its not a listed major part and not a gas engine vehicle.
b. Not covered by federal 50k emissions warranty as it's 10k over.
But, I have a Gold + 100k warranty so I dutifully took it to the dealer.
This is where things got WORSE.
Dealer said they have to diagnose it and then ask if its covered (True???)
I said: 'dont do anything that isn't covered by the warranty.
So they promptly took the exhaust off so they could diagnose the 'module' as well.
Later they tell me the fault isn't covered by the warranty, and I owe then $120 for taking the exhaust apart and telling me what I told them in the first place.
I had written on the estimate " only for work covered by warranty, max $100 deductible", so they agreed to put the car back together for 'free' but say I'm pushy.
I say they may feel that but I'm not feeling very good about paying $4k+ more for a TDI than the gas version of the same vehicle and then having one of the main parts that makes the difference fail. Also, I'm not too happy that the $2k warranty they sold me doesn't cover the Adblue tank.
I asked them to wait until I had spoken to VW America to see if there is any program.
This is where things got BETTER.
I call the customer service number.
TRULY nice person finds me in their system
LISTENS to me and asks me a bunch of questions about my TDI, the problem and my history with other VW vehicles I have owed/own.
Talks to supervisor. 5 minutes later they tell me my concern is a 'case' and I will hear from the regional rep and the dealer.
That was yesterday. My car spent the night on the workshop lift. (not a problem as I was out of town anyway).
Today, the dealer calls midmorning and tells me that VW are going to cover 75% of the cost and my balance will be about $250 including tax.
Figuring that's the same as the part from parts.com I say go ahead and forego half a day on my back in the driveway. By this point I'm pretty happy with VW for getting on the stick so fast.
Then, mid afternoon I get another call directly from a VW customer service representative, following up to tell me that they are going to pay for 75% of the repair (parts and labor) and that the repair total is $515 and my part will be $127 plus tax.
"That's strange" I say, "I just heard from the dealer's service manager that my portion is going to come to $233 plus tax".
"let me call you right back"
Which she did to let me know (and I quote her)
'there was a typo on the service manager's summary'.
'The bill to you will be $127 plus tax'
That's $137 for the problem fixed in 24 hours.
Thank you VW America.
And, because I left the vehicle overnight, the dealer got paid for taking the exhaust apart during the diagnosis phase as well.
I hate being the squeaky wheel.
Mostly.
 

NSTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Location
Nova Scotia
TDI
15 Passat
Adblue is totally about emissions, why else have it and why have a heater if you don't need it for Adblue. California or not, I guess a class action would get VW's attention? Should not be needed as how can you argue before a judge that Adblue is not 100% about emissions?

With what we have seen so far about the possible path to follow to check out and fix an Adblus/DEF CEL, it could be the heater in the Adblue tank, a sensor for the heater in the tank, the heater on the Adblue "fuel" line, a sensor for same, a main computer for the engine, or a software glitch.

Add up the potential cost to do all of that?

On warranty, VW will spend a lot of money. Off warranty, their customers will spend a lot of money. And possibly a lot of trips to the dealer. And there goes the potential sale of another Adblue VW to anyone with these problems, or anyone who finds out about these problems.

And I don't care if lots of other vehicles have the same issues with Adblue, I won't buy them either.

Don
So I finally got my car in Wednesday for the 202 B CEL and "software upgrade" to fix it. 2.5 hours into the 1 hour job, they gave me a loaner. A couple of hours later, I am told it is 2 adblue heaters need replacing, they are ordering the parts and it is not being covered by emissions warranty. It is a $2200 job. The whole job was being discussed with VW support by the dealer, they were told what to investigate.

I called Customer Care on Thursday to complain about the lack of warranty coverage for a urea system problem. They said they would get back to me in 24 hours, heard nothing Friday.

I'll post here as this evolves.

Don
 

Softrockrenegade

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Location
Howellbama, NJ
TDI
None...2011 Golf DSG (replaced by VW W/) 2013 Passat SE 6M(bought back) Current 2017 sportwagen TSI 4Motion.
Don, I hate to say it but you are being taken. This job only requires the adblue heater repair kit which at list price is $625 dollars. And the. 2.5 hours labor. Over 2 grand seems crazy and it looks like they are charging you for the software update that didn't work.
 

NSTDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 26, 2002
Location
Nova Scotia
TDI
15 Passat
Don, I hate to say it but you are being taken. This job only requires the adblue heater repair kit which at list price is $625 dollars. And the. 2.5 hours labor. Over 2 grand seems crazy and it looks like they are charging you for the software update that didn't work.
The hours so far, spent mostly on doing things that were recommended by VW Tech, likely add up to 5 or 6 hours. Before installing 2 urea heaters.

I will not pay for this repair, VW will. How can you say urea is not about emissions?

Wiki says:
Diesel exhaust fluid (DEF), commonly referred to as AdBlue in Europe, Australia, and New Zealand, and standardised as ISO 22241[1] is an aqueous urea solution made with 32.5% high-purity urea (AUS 32) and 67.5% deionized water. DEF is used as a consumable in selective catalytic reduction (SCR) in order to lower NOx concentration in the diesel exhaust emissions from diesel engines.[2]
DEF is used in Daimler AG's BlueTec system that has been built into several diesel trucks and cars. The German Association of the Automotive Industry (VDA) controls the "AdBlue" trademark and uses it to ensure quality standards are maintained in accordance with DIN 70070 and ISO 22241 specifications.


Apparently VW don't know what urea is for in a diesel? Wiki can be wrong I know, but this is one argument that can't be made, the complete urea system in a VW is not for emissions?


If that is the case, why is it there VW? Can I remove it? If not, why not?


They say the government requires it? The government does not require it, they only require a minimum level of NOX emissions from a diesel, VW (and everyone else) uses urea to meet that level. No different than a catalytic converter on a gas vehicle, in use since 1975. Its to meet emissions.


Don
 

Softrockrenegade

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2011
Location
Howellbama, NJ
TDI
None...2011 Golf DSG (replaced by VW W/) 2013 Passat SE 6M(bought back) Current 2017 sportwagen TSI 4Motion.
As far as u know there are not 2 separate heaters that can be replaced. It's all in one module.
 

jafische

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 1, 2012
Location
Pace, FL
TDI
2013 (A3) TDI SEL Premium (Reflex Silver / Moonrock)
I took mine to the dealership in Pensacola FL.
With 48k miles, and expecting a $1200-$2200 repair...
I called VWoA...
After 3 days of going back and forth with dealer:
VWoA is paying $625 (parts)
Jeff is paying $230+tax (labor).

I was originally expecting I was going to cut the heater sensor and replace with the resistor rig/fix.
They are replacing with an adblue heater repair kit. I figure if it is big enough problem for there to be an adblue repair kit... they should fix the problem.

Still crappy engineering/craftsmanship if you ask me... but, I will pay the 230.
 

1308cc

New member
Joined
Jul 27, 2015
Location
South Carolina
TDI
2012 Passat
Year 2012
Mileage 73k miles
Warning Light(s) CEL
Code(s) P202B
Any symptoms or problems before diagnosis N/A
Repair Time: N/A
Any pertinent info from dealer N/A


I'm mostly posting this information because I have always done every repair on every one of my vehicles (new or old). I'm an (ex) ASE certified mechanic (joined the military). I know my way around cars, so I'm not just posting this as a rant because I'm totally clueless.

As stated, my Passat has 73k miles on it now, and just popped the CEL for the reductant tank control ckt. The first thought in my mind would be to see if it's an easy fix. So, to the trusty forums I go. What I find here confirms that it's a common issue, buit JEEZ the heater repair kit costs so much!

The next thought in my mind is that since it's emissions related, why are so many people saying that VW is charging them for the work? The 8yr 80k mile emissions warranty is federally mandated. Is it really somehow not covered?

I have not yet talked to the dealer yet, as they're really not in good standing with me. Most dealer's aren't, and I used to work at one. I just wanted to see what the consensus was before starting another crusade at the place I hate going the most.

-Terrence
 

bt4223

New member
Joined
Mar 8, 2011
Location
Central TX
TDI
2013 Passat SEL TDI, 2011 Jetta TDI, 2000 Jetta TDI
Me Too!

Year 2013 Passat SEL TDI
Mileage 79k miles
Warning Light(s) CEL
Code(s) P202A - Redunctant heat control circuit is open
Any symptoms or problems before diagnosis: Car is not happy... smart key is intermittantly not locking drivers door so I have to do it manually; the daytime running lights have a mind of their own and I have a warning light for them - sometimes one works, sometimes both work, sometimes neither work...

Computer issue?
Repair Time: N/A
Any pertinent info from dealer N/A
 
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gprabhu

Active member
Joined
Apr 24, 2013
Location
Sugar Land, TX
TDI
2013 TDI SE
Year: My colleagues 2012 and my 2013 (Both from Greater Houston area)
Mileage: Around 63K
Warning Light(s) CEL
Code(s) P205B
Any symptoms or problems before diagnosis: Lots of regens
Repair Time: N/A
Any pertinent info from dealer N/A
My colleagues threw the code yesterday, my car today. Terribly coincidental (or maybe not). I haven't called VWoA or dealer yet. My colleague and I discussed his car today, and BAM, my car probably overheard our conversation.
This is terrible.
Update:
Called VWoA shortly after OP. Case was opened. Scheduled to be at Archer VW on 07/17. VWoA and Archer screwed up my appointment, and hence couldn't get anything resolved.
Rescheduled on 07/22. Much better. VWoA and Archer spoke, and I was initially offered a rental car, but there was an availability of a loaner, and SA (Peter) put me in a loaner.
Diagnosis was performed on 07/24, and verdict was DEF Heater repair kit. VWoA was willing to cover 50% and i was to cover ~$460.
Chad at Archer called, and was advised by me that I had VW Drive Care Platinum Warranty.
Chad coordinated between VwoA, VWoA warranty and got repairs approved. Nett out of pocket is $100 (Deductible).
Repair kit will take 4 Business days to come in. Still in Loaner.
Overall extremely satisfied with ArcherVW and VWoA based on outcome.
(Bought and service my car at ArcherVW)
My Colleague on the other hand, not so lucky. Took his car to an indy prior to calling VWoA. $2K bill. VWoA refused to cover stating mileage was too high.
 
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