T5 1.9tdi Won't start after rebuild - A real prize if you diagnose it

SOLVED - T5 1.9tdi Won't start after rebuild - A real prize if you diagnose it

Hello and thanks for reading. SOLVED - crankshaft position sensor ring out out of position by about 90 degrees.

If someone is able to diagnose the problem, I'll make and send them something small but cool, for free. I promise. No P&P, no money, nothing.
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And now the problem. Did a full engine rebuild and it won't start.
I have a VW T5 1.9tdi PD. it's a BRS engine code 105(?) bhp I think, maybe (102?), the Van is 2008.
I bought it with high miles (300k) and it transpired to need an engine rebuild. The crank was knocking.
Engine removed and stripped shows me the main bearings have collapsed, and the bearing caps and block are damaged.
I got a replacement engine, from a Seat Toledo, 2008, a BJB engine code, which is 105bhp.
I stripped the replacement engine to check it was good inside and found one main bearing shell with a small fragment missing, so it was worth doing the rebuild.
I then rebuilt the engine using:
Sump & oil pickup from the BRS (van) engine
Crank/rods/pistons/cast iron block from BJB (toledo) engine
New head gasket of course and new stretch bolts throughout.
Complete Head from the BRS (inc cam, tappets & injectors)
The head was disassembled and rebuilt using new bolts, but existing shells.
I adjusted the injectors as per the correct procedure, one was 45 degrees turn out.
But it won't start.
I've checked:
Timing set with indexing tools
Swapped crank-shaft-timing-pulley from the BRS and BJB engines, as they're different (BRS pulley is slightly oval)
Changed Camshaft position sensor
Checked cam position sensor wiring continuity to the ecu
Checked lift pump - fine
Bled fuel by vacuum into the filter
Checked battery
Observed all instrument lights correct
Tried to start with crankshaft or camshaft position sensor disconnected
Started it on easy-start
Towed it for half a mile at 40mph at 4000rpm
Tried adjusting the camshaft pulley slightly forwards and backwards, deliberately setting it just slightly wrong.
Checked crankshaft position sensor positions on both engines (they match)
Checked part numbers of flywheels for both engines (they match)
Checked the stop valve in the throttle body is open
Checked wiring to the injectors - not continunity, just visual inspection
Verified fuel pump working and sending fuel on the return line to the filter.

(If I've left anything out I'll add it...)
I had a diagnostic computer on it before I used the indexing tool - it threw up "implausible position". But the position was very very close to be exact - I'm not sure what tolerance there is on that. Anyway, it's definitely correct now.
So right now I'm out of options.
It has air, fuel, compression (not checked but it sounds normal, and no reason to assume it's bad)
The computer won't inject diesel.
There's no smoke of any colour, no unburnt white diesel, no smell of diesel.
The diagnostic computer said 0ml injected.
We're stumped. And I can no longer give the van any more time. It took much longer than expected and I'm out of time.
So if you can diagnose the problem, I'll make and send you a gift, I make steel things, blacksmithing, fabrication and art and I write.... As gratitude for your attention. But you'll just have to trust me that I'll do it. But I will.
In the event a few people get the answer, I'll make a few things. Keep your expectations low, then you won't be disappointed!
Thank you in advance.

Real quick, it's not clear from your post that you transferred the 'new' ECU along with its engine.

if your ECU is throwing implausible crank/cam correlation error there may be 2 main reasons for it:
syncro is really missed (tolerance to avoid start is 8deg afair)
crankshaft speed sensing ring improperly installed (which is my bet)

no i didn't transfer the ecu from the replacement engine.
because I only used the mechanical parts - ie. the block, crank, rods and pistons. nothing else. I think I used the crank sensor ring from the toledo engine, but it's identical to the part from the van engine. I used the car sensor ring because it had fewer miles on it.

I'll check part numbers to confirm it's the same part.
Thanks for your suggestion.

timing is not missed, it's set with the indexing tools, and the inductor ring on the back of the camshaft pulley is in the correct position, as far as I can tell.

The cranks sensor is fitted properly, although I can see why you'd suggest it. That's why we checked the flywheel part numbers - the crank senor draws its signal from the back of the flywheel, which can only be mounted in one position on the crankshaft - bolt offset as you probably know.

As mentioned above I'll double check cranks sensor part numbers when I get a chance later. thanks for your suggestion.

supervanno said:

no i didn't transfer the ecu from the replacement engine.
because I only used the mechanical parts - ie. the block, crank, rods and pistons. nothing else. I think I used the crank sensor ring from the toledo engine, but it's identical to the part from the van engine. I used the car sensor ring because it had fewer miles on it.

I'll check part numbers to confirm it's the same part.
Thanks for your suggestion.

Click to expand...

theres 2 types of rings but sensors are not interchangable between them so if you checked sesors are the same, rings are also the same.
BUT since you swapped it, take a look for correct install procedure, and ask youself if you did it properly (you should find it somewhere here in the forum, if not, lmk, i will take it from elsa, but some special tools needed then)
AFAIR it's easy to set the ring 180deg off but have no clue about details.

supervanno said:

the crank senor draws its signal from the back of the flywheel, which can only be mounted in one position on the crankshaft - bolt offset as you probably know.

Click to expand...

Cranking signal is taken from ring that isn't a part of flywheel. And there is a possibility of instaling it offset.

you mean like here?

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=474808

i think we might have our winner.

I did not know this was part of the sensor, I thought it was a part of the seal. So I didn't alight it. I just inserted it. I'm pretty sure I put the little hole at the bottom, assuming it was a drain hole.

Confirm for me that we're speaking the same language here, and that I have in fact, ****ed up here.

further to this,
if I have installed the reluctor ring, sensor ring, wrongly, and I'm certain I have - I will have installed it about 180 degrees out.
that means the ecu will be trying to activate the injectors while the cranskshaft is at almost Bottom dead centre, when the injectors have no pressure applied to them by the camshaft. which would explain why they won't inject anything. and it will also explain why the engine won't start when I disconnect the camshaft position sensor.
If the ecu is activating the injectors, they just don't have any pressure. apart from the pressure from the tandem pump, which is about 7bar as far as I have read, whereas they operate at about 2400bar.

It looks like this is my problem.
G-Lab, give me your opinion on the symptons and see if it looks likely. If it sounds right, then pm me your name and postal address and I'll send you something.

All clear. ECU wont activate injectors since sync angle is out of tolerance, (theoretical sync angle) if you unplug camshaft sensor it propably will but i wouldnt try
Anyways ou have some tranny taking out to do, hav phun and give a shout when engine fixed.

it started right away, I'd installed the sensor ring about 90 degrees our of position.
unfortunately it has an oil leak from the crank shaft oil seal, the one behind the cranks sensor ring. so that means i need to do that entire job again, gearbox and clutch out, flywheel off, to replace that seal.
It's possible it was leaking before, and its possible i damaged the seal while removing the sensor ring, although i was mega careful.

obviously i'm delighted it ran, but less delighted i have to do the job again. took me about 11 hours all-in.
Thanks G-lab. PM me your postal address and I'll send you something.

sorry to hear you need to take out tranny again, happy that helped a bit
all you need is at www.g-lab.pl/kontakt/
BTW, i\m trying to help even when theres no prize

G-Lab said:

sorry to hear you need to take out tranny again, happy that helped a bit
all you need is at www.g-lab.pl/kontakt/
BTW, i\m trying to help even when theres no prize

Click to expand...

You still active here? Still gotta send you that thing