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VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old February 4th, 2019, 05:19   #1
relumalutan
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Default Steering rack programming after replacement

2006 Jetta, bought in 2012, it had since the first day a metallic knock while going over bumps or potholes. The inner tie rod was going bad all the time on the affected side (driver), I have diagnosed the rack to have vertical play. Tightening the steering tension nut on the driver side of the rack would improve things, but only for 2 days. I took advantage of the 1 week Christmas vacation and replaced the steering rack with an used one that had the same part number (2nd Generation 1K1 909 144 L), probably with a different software version.
Of course, now I have the red steering warning in the dashboard and no steering assist at all. I got an alignment done yesterday, my question is: can I do some adaptations and a re-set with my VCDS, or I need to take it to the dealer for a software upgrade?
Thanks.
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Old February 4th, 2019, 05:22   #2
oilhammer
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First see what DTC(s) the Steering has. It may simply need the steering angle sensor recalibrated.
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Old February 4th, 2019, 05:30   #3
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Do you have an ABS fault as well...like a bad sensor?
I once found that the steering assist fault could not be recalibrated until the wheel sensor fault was repaired.
The effect was a partial lose of steering assist and the steering wheel would not return to center on its own. You had to un-steer the wheel back.

2 Faults Found:

02546 - Steering Limit Stop
005 - No or Incorrect Basic Setting / Adaptation

00778 - Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
000 - -


The steering was normal until the battery was disconnected and the steering lost its basic setting.
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Old February 4th, 2019, 05:43   #4
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Yep, the A5's electric steering depends on a proper speed signal, which since there is no VSS, is dependent on the ABS' distillation of the 4 wheel speed sensors.

But if no ABS warning lamp is on, I doubt it is related.
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Old February 4th, 2019, 06:04   #5
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No ABS light on. I have performed other major work at the same time on the car, I would say unrelated to the steering rack (took advantage of the room offered by the removed subframe): upgraded turbo to GTB1749V from Darkside Development, EGR valve deleted and removed (block plate on turbo), EGR cooler removed, new heater hoses, 3 BAR MAP. Installed a stage IV tune from Malone.
When I started the engine the only warning light I got was the red steering. Of course, the steering wheel was off-center as I have also replaced inner and outer tie rods. While driving to the alignment shop, after like 5 miles the ESP warning came on (I assume G85 sensor under the steering wheel, due to the off-center steering wheel). I'll look up the procedure on ross-tech.
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Old February 4th, 2019, 15:25   #6
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Update: cleared all the codes in the car, some of the modules come back right away with the same error: 01309 Power Steering Control module (J500) 004 No Signal/Communication. At this point, the only error the instrument panel shows is the red steering wheel one. When I try to access the power steering module in VCDS, I get the No response from controller message. Damn, this car is driving me crazy!
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Old February 4th, 2019, 15:54   #7
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Check the connections and the rack harness.
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Old February 9th, 2019, 19:58   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilhammer View Post
Check the connections and the rack harness.
It was the main electric connection at the rack (the connector, due to the weird location, was not pushed all the way). Now, instead of the red steering warning and no steering assist, I have the yellow steering warning and I have steering assist. I'll sort out the yellow warning tomorrow, probably some adaptation is needed to be done with VCDS.
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Old February 12th, 2019, 00:39   #9
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Did you drive the car? The steering will re-adapt in about 3 blocks of driving If there are no DTC's set.
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Old February 12th, 2019, 08:14   #10
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I drove the car for quite a while with the yellow steering warning in the instrument panel. Connected the VCDS, got an error saying the limits adaptation needs to be completed. Performed the adaptation per ROSS TECH:
Engine on, keep the steering wheel centered for 5 seconds than turn it all the way to left and keep it there for 10 seconds than all the way to the right and do the same thing. The yellow warning didn't go away, even after driving the car around the block after the adaptation. Found a posting online that says adaptation needs to be done with the shift lever in drive while pressing the brake, not in parking position. Re-performed the adaptation with the shift lever in drive, the warning light went away right away. I'm happy.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ol'Rattler View Post
Did you drive the car? The steering will re-adapt in about 3 blocks of driving If there are no DTC's set.
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Old February 13th, 2019, 19:55   #11
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Care to elaborate more on your noise and how you found it? I am trying to trace my noise on my car and only thing left is a shock or maybe the rack? I don't feel any play on the suspension. If the rack is at fault I will try to find a GTi rack from a MkV so it's quicker ratio.

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Old February 14th, 2019, 06:23   #12
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At some point I took the car to have the DMF replaced (it was driving fine until that point). Got the car back out of alignment with no clunk, took it to Belle Tire for alignment, got the car back with the clunk.
Read online about someone's else experience at a shop where they were trying to separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle by going at it with a hammer. By doing so, they have damaged something internally in the steering rack (Tensioner?).
After the alignment, I had to replace the inner and outer tie rods on the driver side every 3-5 months; on one occasion, with the inner tie rod removed, I have wiggled the rack (to which the inner tie rod gets screwed) and noticed vertical play. It was making the typical metal on metal clunk. That was happening while the car was lifted with a jack on the driver side only. While the car was lifted on a hoist, I could not replicate the issue.
At some point, I have replaced the entire suspension with KONI FSD/EIBACH springs, the clunk killed the driver side strut within a week. I thought that maybe the strut was bad from the factory, got a replacement and the clunk got worse, this time spreading towards the passenger side. It got so bad that while I was leaving the parking lot at work, the clunk was so loud that everyone was looking at me concerned that my car will fall apart. The clunk was always happening at low speeds, while going over bumps or potholes. It was clear to me at this point that the steering rack is toast.
I have replaced the steering rack, no more issues. I am not sure what you mean by "quicker ratio", I thought that all the mk5 steering racks have the same ratio.
If you end up replacing it, after you remove the outer tie rod nut and you separate it from the knuckle, remove the 3 nuts from the LCA, and the bolts holding the dog bone. At this point you need to remove the 4 bolts holding the subframe (make sure you have a jack to support it. The electrical connector to the steering rack is prone to breaking (might as well buy one ahead from ECS tunning). The rack, depending if it's 2nd or 3rd generation is held to the subframe by 4 or 3 bolts. Do not buy the remanufactured one from the dealer ($1400). Install a used one, that's what I did.
If you need a used steering rack, I have one extra (I have ended up with two replacements). It's a 2nd generation, part number 1K0909144J, I have tested it (had it on a bench next to the car and connected its harness to the car, verified with VCDS, it works), let me know if you need it, I'll sell it to you for $100 and I will also include a brand new steering rack mount bushing. If your car has a 3rd generation rack, mine would probably not work.
Since the subframe will be lowered, this will be a good opportunity to install a Tyrolsport deadset subframe kit, that will stop subframe shifting in the future and will also ensure the subframe bolts back in place the right way: http://www.tyrolsport.com/suspension...d-mk5/6/7/mqb/
Might also install a dogbone insert kit, to alleviate the other "clunk" that occurs when DSG downshifte from 3rd to second gear. I did install one and it improved things:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-ecs-part.../1k0198000r~3/
This video will help with removal and installation:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQM_WWtcoKQ
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Old February 14th, 2019, 15:50   #13
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Good information! I used to be a mechanic for a living and hung up my apron 5 years ago to do less messy work... So I am not exactly a novice I sounds like the rack had play in the actual worm gear mechanism/rod that comes out of the rack. Typically on hydraulic racks (prior to mkv) they would piss fluid out of the seals. But electric racks don't have fluid in them hence no leak. I once had one car in for service that exhibited play in the Y axis only.

My car clunks over bumps similar to what you described. Yet I have not been able to replicate it on jack stands (one or both sides). I replaced my destroyed strut bearings, ball joints, sway bar links and bushings (car is heavily modified) and noise is still there...

I have not had the time to look at it due to work/winter weather...

I have a set of KW V3, Passat knuckles and control arms with fresh Whiteline bushings ready to install come nice weather. If that clunk is still there after that.... I will have to tackle that rack.

Not all steering racks are created equal.. So the GTi rack is quicker/tigher than the standard Jetta one. It's a noticeable difference as my wife has a 08 GTi which we've had for 8 years now. In 2011 GTi got the slow rack back, interestingly enough TT also had a slower rack but different knuckles which gave you quick steering.

Perfect combination is a GTi rack and TT knuckles but that requires different inner and outer tie rods. Passat knuckles are the middle of the road knuckles and Gti/Jetta cast iron ones are the "slowest" and heaviest.

My Jetta SportWagen is a 2.0 TSi with double plus the stock power. It's a weird bastardchild with some GTi parts and some Package 2 Jetta parts. If I replace something, it's aftermarket and upgraded every time. I tell the wife it works better

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