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VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old January 5th, 2014, 13:03   #1
puntmeister
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Default Remove outer CV joint from axle

Anyone have any sure-fire method of getting the outer CV joint off the axle?

I am trying to replace the outer CV boot.

I've tapped and tapped (pounded) the inner-race to try and get it off the axle - but it hasn't even budged.

I've found some methods via searches, but they all apply to the axles/cv joints that use a bolt instead of a nut (they drive the bolt all the way through, and basically press the joint out.

No such luck on a 2004.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 13:13   #2
elroy
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take a rubber mallet to it and it will knock off. does take some force due to the c-clip

Last edited by elroy; January 5th, 2014 at 16:49.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 13:18   #3
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The axle is out of the car in a vise correct?

If so, no real advice other than 'hit it harder'.
This How-To might help visualize things.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-Axle-boot-DIY
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Old January 5th, 2014, 13:34   #4
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Just did this job a couple weeks ago on my car.
I used a big slide hammer puller combo.
I left the old axle nut on shaft put the 3jaws under nut and taped them together to stay put,let it hang and give the slide hammer one good pull.popped off no problem.
I borrowed the tool from the auto parts store.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 14:14   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by csstevej View Post
put the 3jaws under nut and taped them together to stay put
Sort of off topic, but if you haven't tried one of these pullers with the cage that holds it in place then you don't know what you're missing. Definitely a quality item.
http://www.posilock.com/ManPullers/3jawman.htm

They also have a kit with the puller and slide hammer, but I've never tried that. If I needed that I would probably rent one from parts store as you did.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 17:50   #6
puntmeister
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Ok, I managed to get the CV joint off the axle (by holding the axle with one hand, then banging down on the CV joint with a rubber mallet, - and I do mean banging).

The bum part was that the grease was all perfectly clean - I figured I wouldn't need to bother tearing the joint all apart and cleaning. However, when I banged with the rubber mallet, all kinds of tiny little bits of rubber worked their way into the grease...

Anyway, I managed to get it all back together.

Just one question: I am to supposed tap the joint back on until the cir-clip is engaged. Ummm, how do I know that has happened? I didn't hear any sort of click, or feel any sort of snapping - which, given the size of the metal parts, versus the little clip, and the oodles of grease - would seem normal, even if the clip were properly past by the splines.

I just hammered away, til it didn't seem like it was going any further. Then hammered a bit more for good measure...then tried to pull the CV back off - it wouldn't budge, so I figure I am good?

PS - to anyone contemplating this repair - if you can find someone to do this for $100 labor, I'd probably run with that. I do a lot of work myself on the cars, in part to save money, in part to be certain the work is done correctly - however, this job, without immediate access to all the proper tools, and the experience of having done it dozens of times, turns a one hour job into a big fiasco.

Granted, all my repair jobs are like that - but, most repair jobs run more like $300+ - thus making it more worthwhile to do it myself.

Last edited by puntmeister; January 5th, 2014 at 21:06.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 19:03   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by puntmeister View Post
Just one question: I am supposed tap the joint back on until the cir-clip is engaged. Ummm, how do I know that has happened? I didn't hear any sort of click, or feel any sort of snapping - which, given the size of the metal parts, versus the little clip, and the oodles of grease - would seem normal, even if the clip were properly past by the splines.

I just hammered away, til it didn't seem like it was going any further. Then hammered a bit more for good measure...then tried to pull the CV back off - it wouldn't budge, so I figure I am good?
Yup, you're good. I slide the joint down the shaft until it stops at the clip. One good whack drives it home. Pull on it hard to make sure its seated and you're good to go.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 19:46   #8
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What you want is those stretchy boots, they slide right over the whole cv joint then you just strap them up, job done.

If you can't get one though two pairs of hands are definitely better than one for this job.
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Old January 5th, 2014, 20:41   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seatman View Post
What you want is those stretchy boots, they slide right over the whole cv joint then you just strap them up, job done.

If you can't get one though two pairs of hands are definitely better than one for this job.
those are for lazy mechanics, you still need to take the joint apart and grease it

CV joints are easy , just messy though

Highly reccomend Redline CV joint lube. The inner joints are the ones that need more attention , the grease tends to dry up
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Old January 5th, 2014, 21:23   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri16V View Post
The inner joints are the ones that need more attention , the grease tends to dry up
+1, especially if the heat shield is not put back on after someone has been mucking around in there (visible here as the white piece shielding inner CV from the extreme heat of the turbo).
If your car has been in the hands of a somewhat lazy or scatterbrained mechanic in it's lifetime then it may be missing that heat shield. If so you need (a) to re-lube your inner CV, whether it's complaining or not, and (b) find/make a new heat shield.



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Old January 5th, 2014, 21:34   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dimitri16V View Post
those are for lazy mechanics, you still need to take the joint apart and grease it
How do you figure that? Most boots just have a small split and have thrown grease out so the cv joint is still clean. Cut off the old boot, pack with new grease and fit new stretchy boot. It's nothing to do with laziness, I mean you've stripped the car down anyway but sometimes that's all it needs.

If I had a cv joint and it was full of crud I'd be waiting to just replace it. If the dirts gotten in it's going to go pretty soon anyway.

Inner joints are different but stretchy for an outer if that's all it needs.
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Old January 7th, 2014, 05:00   #12
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I just did my 05 B5.5. I like to use a large slide hammer on the axle bolt. It's not the number of bangs that gets it over the spring clip. It just takes one really hard bang!
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Old January 7th, 2014, 07:19   #13
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In my case, Seatman was right - the tear in the joint was such that grease squeezed its way out, but no dirt could realistically go in. But, like I said, I managed to dirty up the grease during the process of removing the joint from the axle....

As for the stretchy boot - is that the kind you need the funky tool for (that stretches the boot apart, and allows you to put it on over the joint)?

If so - might make sense for a shop that does this dozens of times - but for a home-brew DIYer, the tool cost would make it unfeasible.

If I had to do it all over, I probably would have just left it all alone, and waited to change if/when the joint went bad - I had patched the tear with rubber cement - it didn't appear to properly patch the tear - but, when I took off the boot, I could see the patch did in fact work (kept more grease from coming out, and not much ever made it out in the first place). Given the headache, and the possibility of creating new problems in the process, this falls into the category of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Then again - I would agree with other posts/threads which state OEM axle is best - so waiting for the joint to go bad might not be the best idea. I haven't seen a Chinese version, or a rebuilt version - but, having seen the inner parts, they look to be very high quality - with 200k miles, mine were nearly flawless (only signs of wear were on the very inside of the joint, where the bearings go during a sharp turn - looks to be a weaker metal than the rest). I can't imagine a Chinese version is as well built. The Chinese will cheat every way they can - and it is easy to use lower quality metals.

As for the banging to get it off - yes, that's it - it just takes one hard blow (to get it past the retaining clip). Unfortunately, took me awhile to figure that out (repair manual said to "tap it off".....

Last edited by puntmeister; January 7th, 2014 at 07:24.
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Old January 7th, 2014, 10:15   #14
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Something like a 2L coke bottle and silicone spray works fine too lol
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Old January 7th, 2014, 12:36   #15
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"Something like a 2L coke bottle and silicone spray works fine too lol"

Now you tell me I can see how that would work.

To be honest, other than the part about having to bang off the joint (which would go pretty quickly and painlessly, if you had done it before, and knew what to do) that part of the process wasn't so tough. The much bigger pain is getting the axle off the car in the first place, then back on....I managed to get it off & on without removing the ball-joint and/or tie-rod, but it was a bit of a hassle.
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