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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old September 5th, 2016, 05:53   #256
That helpful B4 guy
Abacus's Avatar
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nobleboro, Maine
Fuel Economy: And the miles just keep ticking away

Originally Posted by LLL View Post
I read all the threads and if I understood, changing the top cover seal need no hammer mode,
no VAG-COM... just replace the seal, fasten the cover back, crank the engine and you are good to go, right?
Yes, you are correct.

But I have found that seal rarely leaks. Usually the pump leaks from the Quantity Adjuster seal below it, which does require a Vag-Com to set properly.
'97 B4: 453,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR.
'96 B4V: 356,000 miles Malone 2+, PP520's, 6 speed, 02J short shifter, E-Codes, G60 brakes, Evo plate, DMF, stainless exhaust, heated leathers, cold weather package
BUG*PWR 2013 Award Winner
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Old September 5th, 2016, 11:35   #257
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Europe
Fuel Economy: 36mpg/6.5l

Sighhhhhhh... I found today that it leaks not from the cover seal, but from the backside! Where the lower red arrow begins (on the pic) that ellipse shaped thing with two allen torx bolts - there is on the back of the IP on the same level one more thing like it, with two bolts, but it's flat, looks like some kind of cover (like the blockage thing for egr bypassing). It's dripping one drop per 3-4 seconds, only when engine runs. The place where it is located is reeeeeal pain in ...!!!... so probably I do need to do what I was most afraid of, to dismount the IP! But for now, I'm just going to make some drainage of the leakage, just to protect the coolant hoses... dismounting will wait.
P.S. I'm already getting tired with this... one thing you fix, another one already breaks down...

'95 TDI CL 90hp 5 manual 1Z

Every time I brag my car, something breaks down on it!

Last edited by LLL; September 5th, 2016 at 11:38.
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Old September 5th, 2016, 14:41   #258
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Redondo Beach

Welcome to the TDIDrip Club. I have 2 1996 TDI's in the driveway that are dripping.
Mine are both dripping from the o-ring where the 4 lines come out.
You can do some of the O-rings without pulling the IP (injection pump).

Once you get the bugs worked out they are great cars.
Also they say if you can get some Bio-diesel it will swell up the o-rings and the leak will stop.

Here is the 1st of the 7 videos to fix it.

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Old September 6th, 2016, 11:33   #259
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Europe
Fuel Economy: 36mpg/6.5l

Yeah, thanks PD41, but I've already been there Became a TDIDrip Club member in 2007 The IP was repaired with all the seals and washers... after almost ten years, still no leaks except this little pain in... Thanks for the videos but I'm not going to change seals (for now), it will do a specialist. No mistakes, no headaches.

'95 TDI CL 90hp 5 manual 1Z

Every time I brag my car, something breaks down on it!
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Old September 7th, 2016, 09:38   #260
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Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Europe
Fuel Economy: 36mpg/6.5l

Done. Today I made some kind of cone and attached a hose on it... the cone is now under the dripping place, and hose (4mm) is leading next to the oil pan. The coolant hoses under the IP are secured, for now (and cleaned up with brake cleaner). Fuel consumption will be slightly increased, but that's it... I'm tired from all these endless fixes on this already 21 year old pall of mine...
However, the IP goes on seal/washer repair when I'll have more time.

'95 TDI CL 90hp 5 manual 1Z

Every time I brag my car, something breaks down on it!
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Old February 17th, 2019, 07:27   #261
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Southern California

For what itís worth, I found a tech who reseals pumps for $175 not including shipping. He replaces all seals and gaskets and mails the pump back to you.

I had him reseal my pump and itís working great thus far, no leaks, very fast turnaround. I donít know if heíd be comfortable with me sharing his name publicly, but Iíll refer you to him if you PM ame.
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Old March 15th, 2019, 17:53   #262
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Silicon Valley
Fuel Economy: 61/55/44
Default Mystery Fix for Leaking IP: My Heat Gun treatment ??

My 96 B4v has 287K miles and started to leak fuel about 2 fill-ups after I started to use Propel fuel.

Switched back to Grade 2 diesel from Rotton Robie but leak continued.

Did add a half tank of home brew bio fuel from one of the last few private stations in Berkeley because I found myself in the area - being taxi service to my wife who also suffers from dwindling retail options: the last good fabric store in northern CA is in Berkeley. We hate the drive through traffic so we rarely go.

The addition of bio fuel and driving the car for miles did nothing to change the fuel leaking out at a steady drip drip. Still left a three tablespoon or more puddle of fuel under the car every time I parked.

I resolved to sweat it out through the winter and tackle the leak come first days of sun and not so cold weather.

Even bought some JB Weld with the thought to coat the pump from the outside.

Trouble with that idea was that I still did not know exactly where on my injection pump sprang the constant dripping of fuel that runs down onto my water hoses . I could not coat the entire surface of the installed IP so I sidelined the epoxie coating idea till I found the leak.

Tried to locate the leak with fuel dye and a boroscope from AutoZone.

In the process I seem to have fixed the leak. At least for now.

What I did.

To better try to locate the leak I soaped down the pump and surrounding engine parts to wash off everything shiny and oily.

Hot water hosed off the soap and since it was a cold day I got out my industrial grade hair dryer and dried everything in about 10 minutes. I took care to not melt anything by fingering all the surfaces to make sure they were not too hot to touch.

Everything was made quite warm including the engine block behind the pump.

I turned over the engine to start it and got a red engine light on the dash so I repeated the heat treat to dry out the electrical. Red light problem solved and apparent fuel leak problem solved as well.

Drove the car for 20 miles, stopping every few miles to see if fuel leaked out. Nada !

That was 3 weeks ago and all is still dry.

I spent $4 for a bottle of Dawn dish soap and about $16 for 3-2 oz bottles of fuel dye.

Now that is me getting back to my level of frugality when it comes to keeping my old car going.

Now I need a-arm bushings and motor mounts and shocks. Not sure how I am going to do that on the cheap.

BTW: I did learn that one can get mirrored polycarbonite from TAP Plastic from their scrap bin for under $4.

Cut and sanded down to size it makes a dandy replacement mirror element for the passenger side mirror that fell out last week with no prior warning.

Seems everything plastic and degradeable is right on schedule to crumble and fall off.
96 Storm Gray Passat Variant w/o sunroof. Has GLX leather interior, knee pad replaced with glove box & storage trays, the " other ventectomy" [ air vent duct cutaway above gas pedal for foot room ], added fog lamps, plugged 5th injector and an ongoing process of rust abatement.
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Old March 18th, 2019, 01:15   #263
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Sounds like mine before the lifters ate themselves. My bet is the IP seals need to be replaced with Viton <sic> seals. Happened to me going from 100% Biodiesel to Dino Diesel!
You need a parts car if you want to keep that puppy happy. It's your lucky day, my 96' B4 sedan is available, and has tons of parts minus the lifters and maybe the head too.
LA area, let me know if you're interested #reasonable
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