ALH Revving up to 4k at start up

New post for new issue. For those of you that have viewed the: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...476021&usg=AFQjCNGU5ZBdNjzzI_IQYyILOn3EKqn-8g
Current codes:
(Instruments)
01039 coolant temp sensor - open or short to plus intermittent
01314 engine control module - no communication intermittent
The problem:
At start up the idle raises to about 35-4k RPMS in a matter of seconds. It would probably redline if I let it.
Brief history:
Previous owner did not take car of it. Head failed shortly after I bought it, and my intentions were to rebuild and daily drive it.
I replaced with a new AMC head w/timing kit, good compression, new injector nozzles Bosio dlc 520, nictane fuel filter kit, new Mahle vnt-15 turbo, egr/asv delete, pd150 intake mani, buzzken 2.5 turbo back exhaust. I double checked the mechanical time (GOOD). Following all of the new parts the car would start after bleeding the injectors but smoke white (diesel smell at idle), Adjusting the IQ made no effect, and timing graph (yellow line) was to advanced to graph. I eventually drained the fuel tank and added fresh fuel, changed the IP head seal and QA seals, bled the injectors and now the revving rpm issue has started....
Experiencing the symptoms listed on ROSS-TECH
http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/01039
I also replaced the Coolant Temp Sensor (green) with no change. I deleted the codes but they come back instantly. I am currently chasing the wires to find a fault, but everything looks good so far.
Possible Diagnosis:
1. Bad wire/ground somewhere on the circuit
2. Injection pump is going out
3. leaking or bad injector
Fuel does not make sense because there is no code associated with the issue. Open or short is just like saying the sensor is unplugged.
Any Gurus feel free to speak your opinion.

changed the IP head seal and QA seals, bled the injectors and now the revving rpm issue has started....

I'd revisit the collar vs QA adjuster in the IP and make sure you are seated properly, and make sure you didn't bias the top too far to one side.

I will pop the top and report what I find. Its seems awfully coincidental that this new issue just started like that.

What dog dots said!
I did this exact same thing on my daughters car when replacing seals on IP. Scared the crap out of me for the first second , nice to know the asv worked as advertised . Took it apart and redid it......second time no problem.

did you daughters car just idle up on its own?

I watched the pin as close as i could while put the QA back together, guess ill find out soon enough.

The only other thing I can think of is the throttle position is buggered up, unlikely.

Overdrive0902 said:

did you daughters car just idle up on its own?
I watched the pin as close as i could while put the QA back together, guess ill find out soon enough.

Click to expand...

Yes, I believe the car started and I may have lightly tapped the throttle......engine started to rev on its own.

It's not clear from your post whether the thing ran ok for a bit after your pump work or if the problem occurred on the first start up.

If it was the initial start up, even if the QA pin is in the hole you could have the QA located to far to one side. How did you determine where to place it when you tightened the bolts?

hammer mod !!

Prior to this revving issue I got the car running, but it smoked like crazy at idle. I believe the smoke was caused by bad fuel.


I marked the QA cover with a vertical swipe of a pocket razor. It very well could be a off a couple thousandths.

So you resealed the pump, got it running and it smoked but no revving?

Then the revving started occurring later?

If that's the case then I don't see the QA position being the cause.

Not quite...head/turbo install, ran and smoked like it was 80's again.

Resealed the pump and installed nictanes fuel filter = less smoke and RPMS revving.

Then it could be the QA position as has been suggested. Can't remember which way it needs to be moved. If I think about it I'll prolly get it wrong.

Do a little searching for "hammer mod" maybe for "QA position".

I don't think you missed the hole in the collar. I think that'll give a no start or runaway depending which way the collar moves when you miss the hole.

if over revving then hammer toward the timing belt

10-4 I will give that a shot. Thank you everyone for the opinions/advice. Hopefully i can get some free time this weekend.

when you do the hammer mod, if the pump looks like it moved, it was probably too much you should be able to tell if its too much because when you go to start it the car won't want to start due to lack of fuel.

Alright here's the latest...

1. Soldered in the new coolant temp sensor plug
2. Hammer mod worked well to set the idle straight
3. Engine warmed to temp set IQ to 6, (I read 6-7 is good for DLC 520)
4. No hesitation at startup maybe 1 second crank


Persisting issues:

1. Light haze of white at idle (fuel smell)
2. Cannot plot timing graph (screen shows engine not warm enough at bottom of graph)

The smoke is NO WHERE near what it was, so we're headed in the right direction.

is it normal for the idle to change when the timing graph is opened?

Idle changing is normal.

White smoke is consistent with late timing. Should be able to see the plot even if it isn't warmed up so that too is not unexpected if timing is late.

Be aware that sometimes if the timing is way off the error message will be opposite of what the problem is; "to advanced to plot" when it is actually late.

If it's running, smoking and not displaying I'd advance it: pump shaft CW relative to sprocket in spite of what you might read in the timing belt How-To on this site.

The correct phrasing is "ECT not warm enough" out of about 4 attempts to plot the graph
Only once was the yellow line stable toward the upper limit of the advanced line.

I am getting the same codes for the Coolant temp sensor G2 and ECU communication intermittent...

Looks like the sensor ties into the ambient temp sensor, gauge cluster and the ECU. I wonDer if ground the sensors directly that would effect the ECU?

The timing graph was jumping all over from top to bottom. What are the 2 options at the bottom of the graph for (80*, and cloud)?

Cloud keeps something like 10 of the last timing readings on the graph so you can kind of average it out. Your pump could be worn out internally causing the jumping timing but the temp sensors might be playing a part?

After some tinkering with the timing and IQ, I was getting a misfire on cylinder 2. I cracked the injector, purged the air, and the idle evened out. I dumped a can of diesel purge in the tank (5 gal of diesel in tank)

Today I actually took the car for a test drive and experienced some spuddering on excelleration. After a couple of loops around the block I parked the car cracked injector 2 again, the spuddering seemed to go away.

The white smoke is all but gone now. Might have had an air pocket in the fuel system.

As it sits right now there are no codes present