head bolt torque specs

Anyone know the torque specs for the head bolts on a 2006 jetta BRM, Sequence and order



Thanks!

The head torque is a procedure. Same for ALH, BEW, BRM, CBEA, CJAA, by the way. I just checked in my Bentley.

Always use new bolts. clean the bolt holes of all oil or fluid, trash.

stage 1 40nm, 30 ft-lb
stage 2 60nm, 44 ft-lb
stage 3 additional 1/4 turn,
stage 4 additional 1/4 turn.

bolt pattern
10 4 2 6 8
7 5 1 3 9

Dan

DanG144 said:

The head torque is a procedure. Same for ALH, BEW, BRM, CBEA, CJAA, by the way. I just checked in my Bentley.

Always use new bolts. clean the bolt holes of all oil or fluid, trash.

stage 1 40nm, 30 ft-lb
stage 2 60nm, 44 ft-lb
stage 3 additional 1/4 turn,
stage 4 additional 1/4 turn.

bolt pattern
10 4 2 6 8
7 5 1 3 9

Dan

Click to expand...

Do you torque to 30 ft lbs then 1/4 turn then 44 ft lbs then 1/4 turn is that the sequence if not what is the sequence.

You follow the bolt tightening pattern 4 times in the order as written. Stage 1 > Stage 2 > Stage 3 > Stage 4.

The numbers at the bottom of Dan's post that he referred to as "bolt pattern" are the order in which the bolts are tightened in when you do each stage.

I have a few questions regarding head bolt thightening.

1) should the bolts be lubed with trans oil (thread and shoulder areas) or should they be dry? I find conflicting information on this.
2) Let's say: stage 1 40nm, 30 ft-lb. First stage of tightening is 40 Nm. Once gone through the tightening pattern, is there any need to re-tighten first 1, 2, 3, and 4 bolts again to 40 Nm? As those won't be 40 Nm after 7, 8, 9 and 10 were tightened to 40 Nm...

As a practical matter, you probably will not be able to clean out all the old oil in the in the bolt holes anyway.

My best guess is to first chase the holes until your tap comes out clean and then blow out the holes with compressed air.

The bolts I got for the head I'm doing right know look like they have some kind of lube on them already so I wiped off any excess and then just installed them.

Ah, no. When you go to the next stage you will be going past the prior stage's torque anyway.

Ol'Rattler said:

Ah, no. When you go to the next stage you will be going past the prior stage's torque anyway.

Click to expand...

Alright. What about the last stage with an exact torque specified?

E.g. let's assume the two last steps are 100 Nm, then 90 degrees.
So should I ensure all the bolts are torqued to 100 Nm or just torque them 1-10 and don't worry about recheching the first ones and proceed to doing +90 degree turn?

Henrick said:

Alright. What about the last stage with an exact torque specified?

E.g. let's assume the two last steps are 100 Nm, then 90 degrees.
So should I ensure all the bolts are torqued to 100 Nm or just torque them 1-10 and don't worry about recheching the first ones and proceed to doing +90 degree turn?

Click to expand...

Why would you want to short cut a step that takes so little time but ensures the benefit of your new head gasket sealing properly?

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I am not telling I want to short cut in either way!
I'm just asking is it's needed to do a final re-torquing after the initial application of the specified torque.
Since the head gasket manufacturer doesn't explicitly say this, there might be two reasons for that: 1) it doesn't matter and doesn't need to be retorqued 2) it should NOT be retorqued, on purpose

There's no mention of a need to re torque anywhere in the procedure unless you're using head studs. The procedure instructs one to progressively tighten 10 bolts in a specific pattern, ensuring even clamping force... Follow pattern and set each bolt to first specified torque value, follow pattern and set each bolt to a second specified torque value, follow pattern and tighten each bolt a quarter turn, follow pattern and tighten each bolt a second quarter turn...
You'll need a big bar to achieve that second quarter turn as there will be a great amount of apparent torque

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Any stage that has a numerical torque value can be run more than once before moving on to the next stage. Not a bad idea at all.

I put in studs and need to know what the final torque numbers are as they’re no longer TTY.