Car won't start troubleshooting

A little help please...

Turbo seems to work fine good air coming in, good flow out, feels tight, no slop. Even checked exhaust pipe, has a nice flow, also. Also, went out this morning with the valet key, effects are same a with regular key. I get the immobilizer icon when I try to start with the valet key and not when I use the intended key, but the action/reaction is the same, but no warning light flashes. This seems to rule out the immobilizer circuit but it is acting just like that. I've tried resetting the key by 10-20 min turned on, with charger hooked up, then attempting to start again, also disconnecting battery and holding together cables, 5-10 min, but both of these methods have failed. I'm inclined to think the ECU is good since it does fire up and run, albeit for a very short time. Do you have another idea to try? Thanks, Aaron

...some help...

I am going to try checking wiring on steering column. Do I need to remove the steering wheel to remove the bottom cover (I got top off fine)? Thanks, Aaron

...some help, please...

I tried jiggling wires, car still starts for 1 second and then kills. I am a little puzzled and struggling to proceed. If you know of something more, I would be glad for a suggestion. Thanks, Aaron

You need to scan it with VCDS, that's the only way to conclusively determine if the immobilizer is shutting the engine off.

Simon

...some help, please...

Thank you for the confirmation. I am trying to contact an acquaintance who has access to a VCDS as the next step in troubleshooting. Thanks again, Aaron

$5.75 for RELAY 109, free shipping, eBay
seller name : germanpartsaver

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OE-...ash=item3f53ac505b:g:bRIAAOSwA3dYQPLD&vxp=mtr

A little more help...

I have a KII cable ross-tech, says immobilizer is problem. Will not recognize my modules, 063, 081 and gives error code 18056, 01128,17978,
2004 Jetta BEW 1.9l. If you have any advice let me know. Thanks, Aaron

I have a 2003 New Beetle 1.9 t do. It was running fine and all of a sudden it refused to start. Cranks but won't start. Checked codes and said glow plug 2,3,4 circuits were bad, replaced glow plugs, still no start. Pulled codes again same glow plug code plus two others. This time injector circuit and fuel pedal sensor code. Any ideas ? car still will not start checked anti-shudder valve it appears to be open, have tried every thing and still does not start does anybody have any suggestions, i am ready to junk out this car.does this veh have an immobilizer ?

Died, subsequent no start 02 Jetta Bad Fuel Stop Solenoid

Howdy All,

ML27 here with a Jetta restored to life after two weeks of dead. Was driving around town, started up three times - store to store - returning home and it "up an died". Pushed to a p lot, it cranked just fine, but sounded like no fuel. Fuel's fine. even jumped the fuel stop solenoid like I'd done before when my 98 Jetta had ignition switch issues - clicked, but no start - no go! Grrr. Spent several evening perusing the forum for no start thoughts. Got some parts in - FSS, CPSensor, relay 109. This pm decided to replace the FSS because it's easier than the CPS. It came apart like Larry's discussion and pics. THANK YOU LARRY & TDIClub!

ML27

My real problem was the Fuel cutoff solenoid: That plunger was just sitting in its hole and wouldn't come back up. FYI, the voltage at the terminal is between 11 and 12 V (on my vehicle) and it stayed on for about 15 seconds (or, 12 to 15, I didn't time it accurately) after turning on the ignition switch. Now, I wonder whether the little "click" that I'd hear when energizing was just the SPRING hitting the solenoid, instead of the entire plunger??

When I took the solenoid out, the plunger definitely felt stuck down there; but, it didn't take a lot of force with my fingers to dislodge it. Still, I suspect that the solenoid couldn't draw it up. Once I had the solenoid and plunger out, I connected it manually (externally) to the battery and it drew the plunger in like a champ ... but I still don't know whether that was really "strong" enough. It might have gotten a bit weaker with age; but as an engineer, I don't think that this electromagnetic effect can fade (at all) over time, unless the coil impedance worsens (EM properties changing with age). So, this was just a "stuck plunger" situtation. Pic --

Regards, Larry.[/QUOTE]

Has anyone ever had their tdi fuel lines backwards on the pickup? I did and my car ran fine for about a month or so, then no start. That's when I found I had crossed them up the last time I changed the pick up in the tank. I got it started again but now I'm afraid to drive it since it left me stranded at work.

No Cold start even in warm weather

02 tdi golf 5spd. 222k miles. 764 injectors. Kerma tune. Car won't start when cold no matter the outdoor temp. Does eventually start in warmer weather once it floods my neighborhood with white diesel smoke. I installed a coolant heater and it starts up no problem. Is throwing glow plug circuit codes. 3 of them. 1,2 and 4 cylinders. I have changed all glow plugs, relay and harness. Glow plug light comes on for a second or two no matter what temp. Mechanic says injection pump, but he doesn't have vagcom and once car is started it runs 100%. Have car 1.5 years now and it's been doing this almost the whole time. Only getting like 38mpg after tune. Before was getting 42mpg

Scurren said:

02 tdi golf 5spd. 222k miles. 764 injectors. Kerma tune. Car won't start when cold no matter the outdoor temp. Does eventually start in warmer weather once it floods my neighborhood with white diesel smoke. I installed a coolant heater and it starts up no problem. Is throwing glow plug circuit codes. 3 of them. 1,2 and 4 cylinders. I have changed all glow plugs, relay and harness. Glow plug light comes on for a second or two no matter what temp. Mechanic says injection pump, but he doesn't have vagcom and once car is started it runs 100%. Have car 1.5 years now and it's been doing this almost the whole time. Only getting like 38mpg after tune. Before was getting 42mpg

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My 2 cents if these problems exist in all conditions above and if you have this problem year round, the glow plug circuit wouldn't cause your problems from my limited understanding the glow plug light will come on momentarily every time you start the vehicle no matter what the outside temp or engine temp. I would suggest having your static timing and compression checked by someone who has the correct tools because all that smoke I think is unburned fuel.

yes for its unburnt diesel, if compression was bad would it still run good?
I love the way it runs doing 80mph all day easy, its just starts rough. I was thinking that if the block is warm there is enough heat in it to fire, which it does with no smoke. But when my block is cold the glow plug light still only comes on for a second no matter the temp outside and it wont start. It should stay lit during cold days and it doesnt.

Possible relay 109 (if it's grey, it's likely O.K.)
Possible coolant temperature sensor. Check it with VCDS (or equal) cold and hot, if one of the readings is out to lunch, replace it.

I am in big trouble. The other day, I was driving my Beetle and the fan assembly just fell off. It was dark and close to home and I thought it was palm tree limb so I drove the 1/4 of a mile home. The next morning I found my fan assembly in the driveway. It was a bummer but I thought, hey no problem, I can fix this. It became a bigger bummer when I noticed the gash in my radiator. Still no problem. I bought a radiator and fan and put it together but could never get the fan to turn on. I ran it for 15 minutes and then 10 minutes and then it wouldn't start. Weird. I looked in the fuel filter and it was dry of diesel. Nothing was coming out of the hoses when I got my friend to turn it over. Next, I checked the fuel pump wire harness. When the car is on I get a reading on my volt tester for a couple of seconds and then it goes away. When cranking, nothing. I checked the fan wire harness. With the AC on high, I get no reading on my volt tester. The fuel issue is completely out of nowhere. Is it possible that I ripped the fan wire so hard that it messed up wire connecting the fuel pump? I am at a loss and do not know where to start. Help!

Crancks, doesnt start

First time posting, but used the excelent info here many times before. Thanks everyone!
I read through this whole thread very carefully, plus others, but no fix yet. I have a 1994 Passat, 1.9 tdi, B4, mk3, 1z engine (european model). Cranks fine, but doesnt start.
Fuel feed seems fine (no bubles in lines, injection caps bleed when unscrewed, i even took out three glowplugs and cranked to see if mist is beeng expelled. It is.)
Called in a mechanic with a comjuter: no errors show up, timing seems to be corect. We checked timing manualy too, seemed just a bit off, adjusted it, still nothing.
Releay 109 seems fine (grey), shut of solenoid at the pump seems fine. Glowplug light comes on, then off in a second or so. (The weather is really warm).
He tied to spray-start it. Didnt work.
This car doesnt seem to have an anti shudder valve.
Cranking was a bit slow, so I redid the starter, now spins faster, fast enough i believe.
When I crank there is basicaly no sign of life, no fire. Sometimes when i crank really long (and tempreture sensor is off power) i get some firing from the engine, very hesitant and slow, but it will not start.
Two days before car died, it drove just fine, drove 350km on highway, 120-140km/h, even uphill. Drove allright for two days after, then suddenly on my way home it started to lose power, like sufocating or something, then regain power, then lose it again, and so forth avery 10 seconds or so. Didnt die on me, took me home, I turned it off and it hasnt started since.
I am out of ideas. Can it have lost compression so sudenly? Can the intake clogg up suddenly?
Any help would be greatly appretiated.

Engine turns over, won't start

Several weeks ago I noted that starting my car was taking a little longer, so read forum threads and began to conduct basic maintenance to alleviate the problem: Old battery was replaced, EGR removed and cleaned, injectors removed and soaked in cleaner (I used Seafoam), Seafoam run through fuel system, fuel return line replaced, glow plugs replaced (175000 mi. on them), relays checked and replaced one (not 109 yet, awaiting delivery), all fuses checked, I checked the glow plug harness to ensure it was showing voltage crossing through it, and replaced MAF. Engine still just turns over. However, a very, very short blast of starter fluid turns the engine over immediately and she runs great; and throws no codes. I am aware of the consequences of using starter fluid, but engine turnover validates my problem somewhere in the start sequence. I am hoping that replacing the 109 relay solves the problem, but am wondering if there is anything else I can check, or should recheck. Even though maintenance done to date has not resolved starting issue, I learned a lot and helped to ensure this motor provides even more mileage.

Is it turning over fast enough? There is a minimum RPM that the computer will allow it to start. Since the battery is new, maybe the connections are dirty?

If RPMs are fine, timing is the next suspect. VCDS is your friend here.

The next usual suspect to round up would be air in the injection pump. Is the clear fuel line almost full of fuel?

And what happens if you get it started, shut it off, then try to restart? If it fires right back up, I would be thinking air.

Thank you for responding. RPMs are good and connections are all clean / snug. No air in line, but your comment reminded me that I should replace fuel filter. Upon shut off engine just turns over on restart attempt. I will check timing once I get my hands on a VCDS set-up. Will update when I get her going. Again, Thank you.

taaffenelson said:

Thank you for responding. RPMs are good and connections are all clean / snug. No air in line, but your comment reminded me that I should replace fuel filter. Upon shut off engine just turns over on restart attempt. I will check timing once I get my hands on a VCDS set-up. Will update when I get her going. Again, Thank you.

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If you haven't already, hold off on replacing the fuel filter since that will introduce a possible additional problem.

Do you get fuel spurting up high when you crack an injection line?

Right now I am thinking about the crank sensor but if you know that it's turning over fast enough, that must mean you can see the tach move.

I have not touched fuel filter yet, and will hold off until this is figured out. Injector lines spraying nicely when cracked, I can see tach move, I checked the injector pump fuel solenoid shutoff by jumping it to positive terminal and heard it click, and finally took volt meter to to solenoid with key turned on and verified 12.76 volts going to it. Car is not shutting down on me while operating, and no codes being thrown so I don't believe the crank sensor to be the problem, but will keep it in mind. Lastly, my new 109 relay arrives tomorrow and I will swap out. I appreciate you advice and enjoy the challenge of this learning process.

While waiting for the relay, you can just jump the power to the outlet terminals in the panel with the relay out. I think the relay is marked with a diagram and numbers next to the terminals. But it should be terminals 30&85.

Great, will give it a go in the morning. Thank you.

Good morning,

On drive to work this morning finally received a CEL and noted three: P0725, P1780, and P1850 as the car felt like it would not shift out of 3rd into drive gear. At least a CEL finally came on regarding my problems starting engine. Reset CEL, erased codes, reset ECM and restarted engine with the aid of a little starter fluid; drove away with perfect shifting, speed, RPMs., etc. No code for thrown again. Will order crank sensor and replace. I hate throwing money into parts that are not malfunctioning, but the crank sensor is hard to troubleshoot as the symptoms are often masked without a code being thrown. I'm getting closer to resolution.

thanks for showing this

whitedog said:

HERE Is a thread where a guy with a 2006 had a fuel filter problem and HERE is his first thread about the same problem.
It turns out a check valve in the filter head failed, blocking fuel flow through the filter.
This is what the failed part looks like:

You can see a white thing in there just to the left of center. This is the check valve that failed. I'm trying to get a picture of an unfailed one as well as more information on this.

Click to expand...

Big time help thanks . Would I need to buy the fuel filter cap in order replace the check valve ? Also if my CV, is good, should the white flap not be visible ? Thanks for all help

Starting Problem generator noise

2001 Golf tdi Standard Tran.with Air condition,generator has noisey clutch, when starting cold glow plug light on dash turns off as fast as warm engine.
Scanner shows no codes,car will start in warm grage at 50 deg.with many cranks.
Can engine control module be checked with scanner for working rig
Will replacing bad generator take care of problem.
Will older generator with replaceable brushes and regulator work.
Any other sugestons.

Can any one help
Thanks

At 30˚ the glow plug light should stay on at least a few seconds.
VCDS will check many systems and components, but there is no comprehensive ECU checker.
These cars do need nice healthy battery for strong crank. Check major wires/connects as well as grounds.
R&R the alternator as needed, the pulleys are common issues.
Check you do not have a black relay 109.
Best practice is to get a new or quality rebuilt Bosch alternator. But the internals can sometimes be refreshed.

Joe A. said:

2001 Golf tdi Standard Tran.with Air condition,generator has noisey clutch, when starting cold glow plug light on dash turns off as fast as warm engine.
Scanner shows no codes,car will start in warm grage at 50 deg.with many cranks.
Can engine control module be checked with scanner for working rig
Will replacing bad generator take care of problem.
Will older generator with replaceable brushes and regulator work.
Any other sugestons.
Can any one help
Thanks

Click to expand...

Since this is a thread about not starting, I suggest you start a thread elsewhere.

Joe A. said:

2001 Golf tdi Standard Tran.with Air condition,generator has noisey clutch, when starting cold glow plug light on dash turns off as fast as warm engine.
Scanner shows no codes,car will start in warm grage at 50 deg.with many cranks.
Can engine control module be checked with scanner for working rig
Will replacing bad generator take care of problem.
Will older generator with replaceable brushes and regulator work.
Any other sugestons.

Can any one help
Thanks

Click to expand...

Change your coolant temperature sensor, or disconnect it and see if there is change.

steve6 said:

Change your coolant temperature sensor, or disconnect it and see if there is change.

Click to expand...

Except that is a hard start, not a no start. He needs his own thread.