NEED help 2007 TDI Jetta BRM intake flap / asv wiring issue

m3_madbimmer

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06 tdi jetta
So I am getting the fault for intake flap / anti shudder valve and I acquired a new one. Installed it and still same fault. I checked fuses and they are ok. I then took apart old flap and applied battery power and ground to verify that it is indeed ok. So I am assuming something with the wiring or perhaps the ECU is bad. I inspected all I could of the wires/harness/connector and all looks good for me.

Can anyone point me in the right direction of which pin on the 6 prong connector is power and which one is ground. I am assuming it is ground side switched by the ecu?
 

sptsailing

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2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
There are only 5 pins in that plug according to eBahn, Bentley. With the ignition switch on, pins 1 & 2 should have ~5V. The numbering is from the rounded side = 1, squared side = 5. None of the wires are shorted to each other or to + or to ground.

Wiring map for
plug to Control Module (ECM) J248 electrical harness connector T60 terminals:
1 - 19
2 - 56
3 - 41
4 - 4
5 - 30
 

m3_madbimmer

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06 tdi jetta
There are only 5 pins in that plug according to eBahn, Bentley. With the ignition switch on, pins 1 & 2 should have ~5V. The numbering is from the rounded side = 1, squared side = 5. None of the wires are shorted to each other or to + or to ground.

Wiring map for
plug to Control Module (ECM) J248 electrical harness connector T60 terminals:
1 - 19
2 - 56
3 - 41
4 - 4
5 - 30
Yes yes 5! Thank you very much. That is the exact reply I was looking for!
 

m3_madbimmer

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Location
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06 tdi jetta
My connector shows square end being #1 and round end #5.

I have 1 ohm continuity from #3 to ground and I have 12.26v at #5 and 5v at #1
 
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sptsailing

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2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
Bentley manuals have been known to have errors. The page I see shows the female connecting plug with the rounded end having pin 1. The exact verbage re pins 1 and 2, with the ignition on, is this:

"Using a Multimeter , measure voltage supply between connector terminals 1 to 2 for voltage. Specified value: approx. 5 V"

If you have continuity between 3 and ground, that sounds like a short to ground somewhere.

My connector shows square end being #1 and round end #5.

I have 1 ohm continuity from #3 to ground and I have 12.26v at #5 and 5v at #1
 

sptsailing

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2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
I just sent you an email with more details from Bentley. What kind of repair manual do you use?
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Wiring harness. Been there, done that, many times. They get all chaffed up in a few places.

4 different harness, early or late, manual or automatic.

And your car is a 2006 if it is a diesel and it is USA spec. No diesel Jettas were sold here for the 2007 model year, even though many 2006s were built right alongside 2007 gassers.
 

m3_madbimmer

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Location
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06 tdi jetta
I just sent you an email with more details from Bentley. What kind of repair manual do you use?
Thank you! Are we 100% here that no wire should have continuity to ground? I do not have a repair manual for this car, it's my moms and until this point 130k miles since new, I never needed one. I'm a BMW guy as you can tell by my screen name.

Wiring harness. Been there, done that, many times. They get all chaffed up in a few places.

4 different harness, early or late, manual or automatic.

And your car is a 2006 if it is a diesel and it is USA spec. No diesel Jettas were sold here for the 2007 model year, even though many 2006s were built right alongside 2007 gassers.
I inspected most of the harness and I do not see any areas that show any damage at all. Seems well insulated. I also do not see any signs of rodents. Do you guys think something might be damaged under battery tray? That's really the only area I didn't get a good look at.

Also, any tips on how to remove the damn ECM?
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Pull it out of the loom as it goes down past the starter... that's usually the worst, the individual wires (especially the twisted pairs) wear the insulation clean off in little divots from the inside of the fluting.

The other common spot is where it goes around the head, under the tandem pump towards the front of the car.

The ECU is easily gotten to after the windshield lower cover is off and the inner firewall piece is removed. Only issue is, from the factory, there is a little shield held in place with two breakaway bolts that you'll need to cut out. They also use thread locker on them, so even if you get one loose, you'll have to back it all the way out somehow. I just use a grinding disk and cut a slot in each one and then use a chunky flat blade screw driver to get them out, then the shield comes off, and the ECU is right there. The harness in question just goes to the nearest plug, so you don't even need to actually move the ECU to swap the harness out.
 

m3_madbimmer

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06 tdi jetta
Thank you I will check those out. How much is a harness? Mine is a 08/06 production manual trans. Part number by any chance?
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Have to check with dealer by your VIN, but I am pretty sure it is the 03G-972-619-DF. I have one of these on the shelf. I bought out all the auto trans ones in the continent, not sure yet if they got any more in.

I think they are around $360. Once you find a bad spot in the harness, you'll find a bunch of bad spots. I have two on the floor here from recent ones still that look like beavers chewed on them from the inside out, LOL.
 

m3_madbimmer

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Well sure enough I see some damaged wires. How much do I have to pull off to remove the harness. I would like to repair it and properly insulate it.
 

sptsailing

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2006 Jetta Manual, stock with Panzer Plate & Franko6 modified EGR cooler & CAM
Great resource for you

Someone on this forum recently posted a link to a VW document called "The new Jetta
Electrical System
Design and Function"

Google "vwusa.com_vw_mk5_jetta_electricalsystem_ssp_873403.pdf" to find a link to download it. It shows a lot about the car's electrical system, like where major electrical parts are.

The eBahn program I have says to remove the windshield wipers and cowling to get at the ECU, but it does not say how to remove the cowling.

Oilhammer is the pro in this thread. He has been very helpful to me and his suggestions are reliable. I am just an amateur VW TDI owner trying to be helpful while awaiting parts to fix mine.

Thank you! Are we 100% here that no wire should have continuity to ground? I do not have a repair manual for this car, it's my moms and until this point 130k miles since new, I never needed one. I'm a BMW guy as you can tell by my screen name.



I inspected most of the harness and I do not see any areas that show any damage at all. Seems well insulated. I also do not see any signs of rodents. Do you guys think something might be damaged under battery tray? That's really the only area I didn't get a good look at.

Also, any tips on how to remove the damn ECM?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
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Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
Well sure enough I see some damaged wires. How much do I have to pull off to remove the harness. I would like to repair it and properly insulate it.

I wouldn't mess with it, unless your time is not worth much. Once you start taking it apart, you'll see more and more bad spots, more and more issues, and fixing them will be a really fruitless endeavor. In the time it would take you to do it right, if there is such a thing, you could probably earn enough to buy a new harness and be done with it.

But, to get the harness out, the easiest way is to remove both the tandem pump and the coolant flange. You'll need a new tandem pump gasket, and I'd at least get a new flange seal but really it is best to just get a new flange. They are plastic, and often will be deformed to the point that they will not want to reseal (even with a new seal) once they've been removed.

The harness runs under the battery tray, in the harness holder with the others. It is a fairly straight forward process, however the connector on the CKP sensor can be tricky given how buried in a hole it is. And if you booger up the CKP sensor, you really won't like replacing that. And if you booger THAT up, you get to take the transmission out to replace the rear main seal carrier where the CKP sensor tone ring lives (which is also plastic, and thus quite delicate).

I've done a LOT of BRM harnesses lately.... a LOT of them.
 

m3_madbimmer

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Location
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06 tdi jetta
I wouldn't mess with it, unless your time is not worth much. Once you start taking it apart, you'll see more and more bad spots, more and more issues, and fixing them will be a really fruitless endeavor. In the time it would take you to do it right, if there is such a thing, you could probably earn enough to buy a new harness and be done with it.

But, to get the harness out, the easiest way is to remove both the tandem pump and the coolant flange. You'll need a new tandem pump gasket, and I'd at least get a new flange seal but really it is best to just get a new flange. They are plastic, and often will be deformed to the point that they will not want to reseal (even with a new seal) once they've been removed.

The harness runs under the battery tray, in the harness holder with the others. It is a fairly straight forward process, however the connector on the CKP sensor can be tricky given how buried in a hole it is. And if you booger up the CKP sensor, you really won't like replacing that. And if you booger THAT up, you get to take the transmission out to replace the rear main seal carrier where the CKP sensor tone ring lives (which is also plastic, and thus quite delicate).

I've done a LOT of BRM harnesses lately.... a LOT of them.

The dealer is investigating the part number for my car. Thanks again for the help.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
There really isn't anything to "investigate", unless you want to verify it against your VIN. But that should be the correct one if your car is a manual.

Only difference between the manual and automatic is that the manuals have the starter crank signal wire in the harness, the automatics have that wire in the transmission harness instead, since the M-unit has to convey information from the gear selector module inside the car that the transmission is indeed in P or N.

Only difference in early vs. late is the location of the glow plug circuit connector. Early cars (which would really just be 2005.5s) had this connector right behind the left headlamp assembly, where it could get full of water. Later cars they moved this connector down below the headlamp assembly, in a better protected spot.

There are two other part numbers listed, but I've never run across any cars that would use those but they are still in ETKA and don't supercede to another, and they have the same date code split as some of the others. So I guess ultimately it is best to just check with your VIN.

They are all on ETKA illustration 971-011 under JEM-2006.
 

m3_madbimmer

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Location
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06 tdi jetta
There really isn't anything to "investigate", unless you want to verify it against your VIN. But that should be the correct one if your car is a manual.

Only difference between the manual and automatic is that the manuals have the starter crank signal wire in the harness, the automatics have that wire in the transmission harness instead, since the M-unit has to convey information from the gear selector module inside the car that the transmission is indeed in P or N.

Only difference in early vs. late is the location of the glow plug circuit connector. Early cars (which would really just be 2005.5s) had this connector right behind the left headlamp assembly, where it could get full of water. Later cars they moved this connector down below the headlamp assembly, in a better protected spot.

There are two other part numbers listed, but I've never run across any cars that would use those but they are still in ETKA and don't supercede to another, and they have the same date code split as some of the others. So I guess ultimately it is best to just check with your VIN.

They are all on ETKA illustration 971-011 under JEM-2006.
Right he said all the harness options are "gray" for my vin and are listed as up to 05/06 production and since my car is a 08/06 production he has to call VW to get the part number for me. I rather play it safe than get the wrong harness. This car has that "whatever can go wrong, will go wrong" thing going for it and now you have me sweating that CKP connector lol.
 

m3_madbimmer

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So I got most of it out excluding the connector at the ECM. Did you say I can disconnect it without drilling out the two rivets/removing ECM?

Also, I removed the oil filter housing to make crank sensor connector removal easier and I was able to fish out the harness without removing the coolant flange.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
Ok, cool. Well, keep us posted. And update your profile, your car is a 2006, not a 2007. 10th digit of the VIN.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
It was advertised as so when we purchased it.

Well then you got duped. There are no 2007 or 2008 MY Jetta TDIs sold in the USA. 2006 was the last year, before 2009s came out.

The 10th digit of the VIN will signify the model year, and there will be an emissions compliance label under the hood as well.

It is true, like I said in a previous post, the Volkswagen continued to build 2006 MY diesels as long as they could, even though the gas engine counterparts had already changed over to 2007s. In other words, the Puebla assembly line was building, side by side, 2006 MY diesels and 2007 MY gassers, for a few months.

This was due to the lack of rollout with ULSD and market penetration of the new fuels (or so we were told). These later 2006 Jetta TDIs typically have a little "diesel" tag affixed to their front fenders. I have one such animal in the shop now, with a build date of 12-06, one of the very last ones. Normally 08 is the changeover month, but they continued to build the 2006s through the end of the calendar year.

The one here as a serial number of 852966 (last 6 of the VIN), with the "6" in its 10th place as the MY designation.
 
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m3_madbimmer

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Thanks for the explanation. I by no means feel "duped" as we got a car for $25k out the door which has delivered 130k (until now) headache free miles! Although I have to say the quality is poor, many rust areas starting to form and working on this thing is a nightmare. I just did the EGR delete which makes it a world easier to work on but the "German engineering" was lost on this one.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I disagree. I think it is a well built, well thought out machine that is quite easy to service. One of the easiest platforms ever. I work on all kinds of things, too.
 

m3_madbimmer

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A well built car should not need a harness after 7 years of use ESPECIALLY since their cheap ass plastic insulation caused it to fail. It might just be the fact that I am used to working on BMW but they seem to use higher quality hardware as in bolts/nuts, better hose clamps versus the garbage constant tension clamps, and I think packaging and accessibility to various components is easier etc considering this is a tiny TDI engine.

However, thank you again for your incredible help. It was very much appreciated.
 

oilhammer

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There are just too many to list....
I prefer constant tension spring clamps myself. And there are oodles of BMW stuff that you think wouldn't be an issue in short order but is... the dealer I worked at sold BMW, those guys were ALWAYS busy. Some of the major engine stuff that broke amazed me, and the plastic valve covers that burst open in cold weather without warning spewing oil out the back of the engine on a 1 year old car certainly doesn't bode well for them, not to mention tires wiped out every 15k miles and suspension components that last 40k miles or less.

They all have problems, none of them are perfect.
 
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