GTB2056VK in to BRM - ASV or not to ASV???

A5INKY

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Location
Louisville, KY
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
First some background: Building up a PD100 (BRM) with a GTB2056VK and R783 nozzles. There are many other mods as well but not any that should influence the decision I need to make about the anti-shudder valve. The turbo is being mated to a short runner tubular manifold and will exhale through a 3" exhaust. For now I am using the OEM FMIC and most of the OEM pipe work. Thinking this should be OK with the sub 30 PSI tune planned. While the car is in the capable hands of David (TDIinTexas), I decided to go ahead with his dual plenum intake manifold more to improve distribution than for all out flow potential. My goals at this time are not outright peak performance per se, as the car is a daily driver and I am not yet beefing up the bottom end. However, it will be stout, I will be happy with 400 ft/lbs torque - give or take (for now:rolleyes:).

Here's the issue: I would like to maintain the original ASV for safety reasons against runaway. David measured the ASV ID at 1.88". The intake OEM manifold inlet is 2.00" and my OEM intercooler pipework is around 2.25". The new dual plenum manifold inlet will be 2.50". The ASV might be a bit of a restriction now. It might become a bigger restriction if I go 2260, custom FMIC and bigger piping sometime down the road.

I am not looking to amaze with peak HP dyno figures with this build. I want a very strong car in the RPM range that I drive it 2000 (ish +) to 4500 RPM with a nice fat torque curve with a lot of area under the curve.

David is leaning toward ditching the ASV, I am leaning toward keeping it. Curious if anyone can make a compelling case for ASV or not to ASV for this build.
 

O.C.TDI

Veteran Member
Joined
Apr 29, 2007
Location
Oregon City, OR
TDI
04 Jetta TDI, 09' JSW TDI, 09' BMW 335d
The BRM ASV is directly actuated by a stepper motor. Is there a similar bigger ASV out there that would plug in? Maybe off a euro PD? That would be perfect!
Yes. The SDI canister style intake has a nice ASV, It has a square 4 hole flange and a 2.5" inlet. I use one on my BEW and it is functional once rewired, the plug is the same just have to swap the wire around. I think the plug on the BEW BRM is the same.
O.C.
 
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Lofty86

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Joined
Jun 16, 2010
Location
Chippenham, UK
TDI
Mk5 VW Golf 2.0 16v PD140
Hyjack..
Is there an ASV I can use on my pd130 build? Its the vac controlled one. The ASV and the EGR are one piece and i just wanted a small length big ID ASV i can make a flange for and fab onto my D24 manifold.
Dave
 

A5INKY

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Location
Louisville, KY
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
Yes. The SDI canister style intake has a nice ASV, It has a square 4 hole flange and a 2.5" inlet. I use one on my BEW and it is functional once rewired, the plug is the same just have to swap the wire around. I think the plug on the BEW BRM is the same.
O.C.
I am not too familiar with that manifold or it's origins. I have seen it from your build thread and understand why you chose it, but where do they come from? Euro part from Ryanp? Fastest way to get my hands on one (ASV part anyway)?

Travis, if I can get my hands on one of these, perhaps you would be willing to help me out with wiring change required?

Thanks for the tip, best of both worlds!
 

ryanp

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Jun 22, 2008
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Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK
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Arosa CR - 550hp - 9.7 @ 150mph 1/4 Mile, Citigo 4x4 CR TDi - 340hp, Caddy 2.0 CR 4x4 TDI - 300+hp, Golf Mk2 Van 1.9 TDI - was 290hp, Mk5 Ibiza 2.0 FR TDi - 270hp, BMW 135d - 360hp, BMW 330d - 335hp, BMW 335d - 380hp + a few more ........


A Visual aid!

Ry
 

OptimusFuel

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Apr 1, 2011
Location
Pickering my nose. haha
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2004 DEAD-RED Jetta
You say 30psi for a daily without any bottom end work? Lol.
Be ready for some serious damage.
When it comes to turbos, you CANNOT drive them, or for that matter, expect the same performance from a small to a large turbo. If you are looking for 2000rpm quick power, I would suggest a 1856. That's a good low to mid-high rpm turbo. Tailing off more mid-high to high. But if you want the curve to more essentuate the mid to high end, then go with the 20 or 22. Don't expect to floor it at 2000rpm with a 20 and assume it will go. Because it will not. You will just overload the head and bottom and could cause major failure to high boost pressure that the stock internals are not meant for. So if you really want to run 28-32 psi, go for the 22 as the 20 will be over worked and potentially fail alot sooner as a 2056 is only meant to be run at 25psi or at maximum 28. But that's still stretching it.

Ps. Change the camshaft. To a reliable on (IE:colt cams)
 
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A5INKY

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Joined
Sep 4, 2007
Location
Louisville, KY
TDI
2006 Jetta TDI, 2002 Eurovan Westphalia VR6
You say 30psi for a daily without any bottom end work? Lol.
Be ready for some serious damage.
When it comes to turbos, you CANNOT drive them, or for that matter, expect the same performance from a small to a large turbo. If you are looking for 2000rpm quick power, I would suggest a 1856. That's a good low to mid-high rpm turbo. Tailing off more mid-high to high. But if you want the curve to more essentuate the mid to high end, then go with the 20 or 22. Don't expect to floor it at 2000rpm with a 20 and assume it will go. Because it will not. You will just overload the head and bottom and could cause major failure to high boost pressure that the stock internals are not meant for. So if you really want to run 28-32 psi, go for the 22 as the 20 will be over worked and potentially fail alot sooner as a 2056 is only meant to be run at 25psi or at maximum 28. But that's still stretching it.

Ps. Change the camshaft. To a reliable on (IE:colt cams)
You read much into my post and added many assumptions of your own. I said less than 30 PSI, initial tune will be more like 25 PSI. Also, you missed reading my sig, I have a colt cam already (and more). I don't care to debate what power the engine was "meant" to produce (this is the Performance section after all). Bottom end stress can be managed to some degree by a skilled tuner and itelligent driving. Beyond that, I understand the risks and accept them, thank you very much.

Ryan, thanks for the pic and the ASV. I just PayPaled the money to you.

Problem solved!
 

kooyajerms

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May 5, 2004
Location
Pomona, Southern California
TDI
97 B4V (mine), 11 x5 35d (hers) 04 V10 (that one you want), 2014 Q7 (mom's) 74 Shasta 1400
Hey Multiple-Alias member,
I think the GTB series turbo can take more than you think it can. Despite you thinking there is a restriction in the compressor because of it's special vane setup, it's performing much better than my previous Jeep 2056. I'm running 28psi max boost, mainly because I don't want a 4 bar sensor nor do I want to get rid of my Doniol boost gauge =p

Now I'm speaking for the turbo itself, I agree with you about not pushing 30psi all day long with a stock bottom end.
 
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ryanp

Vendor
Joined
Jun 22, 2008
Location
Barnsley, South Yorkshire, UK
TDI
Arosa CR - 550hp - 9.7 @ 150mph 1/4 Mile, Citigo 4x4 CR TDi - 340hp, Caddy 2.0 CR 4x4 TDI - 300+hp, Golf Mk2 Van 1.9 TDI - was 290hp, Mk5 Ibiza 2.0 FR TDi - 270hp, BMW 135d - 360hp, BMW 330d - 335hp, BMW 335d - 380hp + a few more ........

TDIMeister

Phd of TDIClub Enthusiast, Moderator at Large
Joined
May 1, 1999
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Canada
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TDI
First investigation is that it's not Diesel_Benz this time but another member with several aliases. This is a ban-able offense.
 

Evil-Diesel

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Dec 4, 2010
Location
VAGABOND
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'05 TDI PD-R
I say gtb2056 at 28psi is the sweetspot. With the R7's injectors, you will have plenty of fuel to boot. Go for it.
 

ducesrwld

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2009
Location
WI
TDI
none
You say 30psi for a daily without any bottom end work? Lol.
Be ready for some serious damage.
When it comes to turbos, you CANNOT drive them, or for that matter, expect the same performance from a small to a large turbo. If you are looking for 2000rpm quick power, I would suggest a 1856. That's a good low to mid-high rpm turbo. Tailing off more mid-high to high. But if you want the curve to more essentuate the mid to high end, then go with the 20 or 22. Don't expect to floor it at 2000rpm with a 20 and assume it will go. Because it will not. You will just overload the head and bottom and could cause major failure to high boost pressure that the stock internals are not meant for. So if you really want to run 28-32 psi, go for the 22 as the 20 will be over worked and potentially fail alot sooner as a 2056 is only meant to be run at 25psi or at maximum 28. But that's still stretching it.

Ps. Change the camshaft. To a reliable on (IE:colt cams)


i guess that makes 2 of us retards pushing the stock internals....time will tell
 
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