White smoke

2006 1.9L Jetta, 200K miles. I replaced the cam and lifters about 30K ago. Started to blow black smoke (excess fuel?) a couple weeks ago. Changed oil and now its blowing white smoke. Oil level ok, not overfilled. Tends to do it after driving a few miles once it gets warmed up. Burning smell, not sweet.

DTC for erg circulation gasses. Forget the exact code. Pulled the EGR and there was some build up. Decided to pull the intake and there is some build up there as well. Will get it cleaned out.

While under the vehicle noticed there is a decent amount of oil on bottom of engine and other parts. Driver side up near turbo and down to the axle gear box is all dry black soot. Any ideas on this? Vacuum leak possibly coming my issue? No exhaust leak from what I can hear. What do I need to check and how do I check it? Figure Ill just replace all the vacuum lines to be safe.

Maybe the EGR valve.

How would I go about testing the EGR?

Valve stems seals possibly. Although usually only happens at cold startup. Mine's been doing it since 60k. It's now 229k and nothings changed.

Doesn't do it on cold start up. Have to drive for a few minutes and warm it up. I just don't want to install my intake again to find its the turbo, and I could have easily taken it off. The intake sucks to take off.

borjawil said:

Doesn't do it on cold start up. Have to drive for a few minutes and warm it up. I just don't want to install my intake again to find its the turbo, and I could have easily taken it off. The intake sucks to take off.

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have you done a compression test?

You could check your air filter; see thread http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=400401 ; near the bottom of page 1 you can see what an air filter with EGR leak looks like.

Just replaced my EGR; air filter looked worse.

I have not done a compression test, is it done the same as a gas engine? What should my PSI read? My airfilter is fine.

So far I have removed the intake and cleaned the ASV, EGR, and intake. Replaced intake gasket. Replace vacuum lines I could see/find. Problem is worse? Now bluish smoke from start up, and once it warms up its back to white smoke but even more.

Im not positive but there may be an oil leak on the driver side of the head gasket. Oil build of there, but that may have been from the valve cover when I replaced the cam. Not sure.

Well code for egr valve over boost condition was on there Ive had it come and go. Also low boost I believe was on there as well. Trying to perform a compression test at the moment as I do have a build up of gunk/oil on my driver side. Not sure if from valve cover though. My tester only goes to 300 and I know my engine should read above yhat. Tried in cyl 1 and it maxed out and now my tester won't hold a number just flips up with key and back down quickly. Maybe broke it. Will get another tester.

If thats not it I'm making a block off plate for my egr valve. If problem goes away I have a egr or wiring problem (for the millionth time, **** these harnesses). If the problem persists I likely have a turbo issue or ? Any ideas besides turbo or how to test turbo?

I replaced what vacuum lines I could find up top and the one that goes to the metal canister near the fire wall to the metal line. My new lines were 3mm. 5mm didn't seem to fit right enough on any nipple but maybe 2 short sections. Would smaller lines affect anything?

Note on start up at idle for 5 mins there is no smoke. None. Start to drive and temp gauge hasn't moved and I'll get bluish smoke. Once I get to about halfway to warm up temp (190) I start to get smoke. Once I get to 190 I smoke a lot. If I'm just cruising with steady pedal input some smoke. Left off and brake to turn snd with reapplying the gas lots of smoke. Not sure if that helps with diagnosing but maybe it'll help someone else with the same issue.

Compression test complete. Rented a tester from AutoZone. Only goes to 300 but it didn't blow out and went well past 300. So pistons/cylinders are in great shape.

Noticed that it really doesnt smoke until I'm warmed up, maybe thermostat or another valve thing opening at that temp and causing it? Just a shot in the dark. Even in park warmed up I can rev it and very little to no smoke. So engine has to be under load. So I'm leaning towards egr or turbo? Other ideas?

Off to make a block off plate...

Block off plate didn't help and then I thought if I unplug the egr it'll stay closed and rule out a bad egr staying open? Someone let me know if my logic is right. Tried unplugging it and same problem.

Any one know what else to check? Leaning towards turbo at this point. Can they be rebuilt or is a used/New one in order?

Seems my turbo actuator is not working? Had some press the gas while I looked at the rod below it. The rod did not move. Going to follow this and see if attaching a vacuum to it will move the rod.

http://www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/vnt-turbo-actuator-testing-and-replacement-mk5-mk6-tdi-engine/

UPDATE: Actuator rod moves with my brake bleeder pump connected. Any one know which port on the N75 this is supposed to connect to? I replaced the lines but may have mixed them up. Or does it not matter which port?

First black smoke, now white... I suspect your car has chosen a new pope.

Dear lord, forgive me. I promise, no more bad jokes on TDI forum for the rest of June. Amen.

Ok, checked voltage between actuator pins 1 and 3 and have 5V (unplugged). Checked resistance at N75 (unplugged) 15.8ohms - starts low and climbs to 15.8. Checked voltage at N75 connector (unplugged) and have battery voltage flash then drops to about 8-9V.

My vacuum lines are - Actuator to middle nipple on N75. Bottom nipple on N75 to airbox. Not sure where others should go, anyone have a simple diagram? I found one but it doesn't seem to match with my vehicle.

Are you using a VAG-COM, VCDS or at least a code reader?

Check your injection quantity (IQ). That can make smoke if it is out of range, either too lean or too rich.

Rig said:

Are you using a VAG-COM, VCDS or at least a code reader?

Check your injection quantity (IQ). That can make smoke if it is out of range, either too lean or too rich.

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I don't have a vag com. I have a scan tool but other than reading codes and erasing them Im not versed in it. With the actuator rod not moving have I not identified at least 1 problem that could cause my symptom? Or should the actuator rod not be moving at idle even with gas applied?

Checked my vacuum lines. They are as follows, hopefully someone can confirm if this is correct:

N75 (mounted on firewall by brake booster)
top nipple:Airbox, middle nipple: turbo actuator, bottom nipple:goes to the engine valve cover with a split between. Split goes to bottom nipple of the N18? (lays horizontal behind valve cover/driver side), and to a black and white check valve that connects to something on the drivers side of the engine.

N18? - second nipple connects to a metal tube that I can't see where it goes.

So any one know where the metal line continues, other lines to check/replace, and if that black and white check valve should have the black side facing the think on the engine block? found it white side towards engine but read some where that is incorrect. Flipped it around and seem to be getting a more black/grey smoke mainly.

Cleared all codes and test drove up and down the block. P2413 did not get cleared and P2196 came up after the short test drive. P2413 is for recirculation of exhaust gases and P2196 is o2 sensor stuck rich or something. Ideas?

Update. Car has been sitting since this post. Decided to replace o2 sensor on cat. Bank 1 sensor 1 for the code I was getting. Vacuum lines are connected properly to my knowledge. Car drives fine. No weird noises. I am however getting a oil light/oil pressure warning message, but my oil is topped off.

Still getting smoke. More bluish. Any ideas what to check and how? Intercooler pipe? Turbo? Really need this fixed as my truck just took a ****. Also noticed 3 glow plugs are whitish and the 4th is black.

Just cleared codes and had p2413 pending. exhaust gases recirculation. Ideas? Drove it a few minutes and re-read and no other codes. I just went through and cleaned the EGR and ASV, before the vehicle sat.

Further update, decided to inspect a hissing noise at idle - like an air leak, since i read about an intercooler valve of sorts by the belly pan? under the engine in the the middle, above the boot on the axle is a vacuum line to a metal line. This is part of a part that has a rod going into (lays horizontal). This is where i feel the leak, but it is not coming from this part, seems to be coming from right by the pivot point for the rod that pushes the diaphragm in the part. may this is meant to leak built of pressure? not sure. ideas?

I also have oil coming from my cat and likely causing the smoke. Checked what I believe is the lower intercooler line (driver side, coming from in front of the radiator) and the intake hose/tubing on the passenger side of engine that connects to the ASV. oil residue in both, no oil pouring out.

Here is another guys video of where the leak is coming from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-25vD9tLfo0

Sounds like a bad EGR cooler

Right, bad bushing on the erg flap. Ill be plugging this up and fixing the flap in place. Any ideas on the oil coming from the cat or if this is related?

I'm seeming to have the same issue as you. I have an egr, and asv delete on my car, and I'm also having the same, white smoke after warm up issue.
It's severely underpowered, and I'm getting the EGR codes, and underboost code as well.

I have no driveability issues currently. Just deleted my egr and my cat is puking oil everywhere. Turbo seals? or something feeding too much oil to the turbo?

borjawil said:

I have no driveability issues currently. Just deleted my egr and my cat is puking oil everywhere. Turbo seals? or something feeding too much oil to the turbo?

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Having the same issue as you, and I have an egr delete, and ASV delete. I'm thinking turbo seals, but still have no clue.

Pulled the turbo, and the turbine had broken off the shaft. So I ordered a pd140 kit