01M transmission problems solved

Matt-98AHU said:

Good ol Howard Cooper I'm assuming?

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Yes, Howard Cooper it is. I feel slightly better working with them than Suburban VW...

Oh. Sorry to hear that. They've destroyed several TDI engines doing timing belt jobs.

see: www.martinbergelllc.com a.k.a. JETaah here.

DHOLLIST,

Sorry to hear your tranny went south again. Mine is still ticking along, although I've had a few rough shifts here and there too.
I spoke with Donny about it, and he recommended the manual valve adjustment and a different torque setting for the bolts. I won't be able to make the changes for a week or two, but I plan on it as soon as possible. I'll post with that info.

Currently at 144,000 and motoring down the highway (mod done at 139,000).

Effen 01Ms.

Camelman

Two weeks my auto tranny locked up while driving on highway it had 156xxx miles on it. I was hopping it would last for another few thousand miles but it didn't. It was shifting bad for past 6 months and finally gived up, it still would go in first gear upto 20mph and thats all. If you put into neutral and try to push car back it won't roll wheels locked up.

Now my TDI is back on road with low miles used 5speed tranny and new VR6 clutch/G60, runs like new. The engine seems to run quiter with manual transimission then with auto.

Just want to chime in my experience with my valve body replacement.
my 02 Jetta with 130k had problem with delay revserse since it was about 110k miles. It gotten worse and after I saw Camelman's posting, I decided to try it out. I purchased my valve body from TranZ at Tampa FL and it came with used wiring hardness. Instead of replacing the entire wiring hardness, I uncliped the connectors at the solenoids. The old connectors were pretty brittle and fragile, most of them felt apart to pieces when I tried to take off. I decided to use the connector come with the rebuilt valve body, for the most part it went well, till I hookup my VAG COM, it threw solenoid #1 and #2 short circuit fault. I was trying to souce just the connector only and no luck. I finally decided to take into local transmission shop to have them replace the new wiring hardness. I was out of town for about 1 week and just picked up the car last Friday. The car drove a little rough initially, but it smooth out after about 10 miles. I only have few hundred miles on it since I picked up, but it seems to be promissing. no problem with delay reverse or forward gears. It actually drives better than I purchased used with 74k miles on it.
Just a suggestion to anyone try to replace the valve body. It may be worth the time and money to purchase a new wiring hardness instead of trying to the existing one or the used come with the rebuilt valve body.
I will keep you posted with any issues.

Chao.

Plutogogo said:

Just want to chime in my experience with my valve body replacement.
my 02 Jetta with 130k had problem with delay revserse since it was about 110k miles. It gotten worse and after I saw Camelman's posting, I decided to try it out. I purchased my valve body from TranZ at Tampa FL and it came with used wiring hardness. Instead of replacing the entire wiring hardness, I uncliped the connectors at the solenoids. The old connectors were pretty brittle and fragile, most of them felt apart to pieces when I tried to take off. I decided to use the connector come with the rebuilt valve body, for the most part it went well, till I hookup my VAG COM, it threw solenoid #1 and #2 short circuit fault. I was trying to souce just the connector only and no luck. I finally decided to take into local transmission shop to have them replace the new wiring hardness. I was out of town for about 1 week and just picked up the car last Friday. The car drove a little rough initially, but it smooth out after about 10 miles. I only have few hundred miles on it since I picked up, but it seems to be promissing. no problem with delay reverse or forward gears. It actually drives better than I purchased used with 74k miles on it.
Just a suggestion to anyone try to replace the valve body. It may be worth the time and money to purchase a new wiring hardness instead of trying to the existing one or the used come with the rebuilt valve body.
I will keep you posted with any issues.

Chao.

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Hom much did you pay for valve body? and what was total cost of this? My was giving me troubles for 6 months then finaly give up, now car has 5speed in it and I love it. Total cost for manual swap was little less then $1,500 with my own labor.

Valve body with used wiring hardness was $350.00 The transmission shop charged me $ 340.00 to install the new wiring hardness. Plus about $100.00 for the filter and fluid. Total around $800.00
Your $1500 will probably will be longer term repair than my valve body repalcement. I do drive a lot in the traffic and use my phone and do other thing while I am driving, so 5 speed was not a good option for me.

Plutogogo said:

Valve body with used wiring hardness was $350.00 The transmission shop charged me $ 340.00 to install the new wiring hardness. Plus about $100.00 for the filter and fluid. Total around $800.00
Your $1500 will probably will be longer term repair than my valve body repalcement. I do drive a lot in the traffic and use my phone and do other thing while I am driving, so 5 speed was not a good option for me.

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I drive about 75% in traffic and use cell phone too & other things too. I found solution for cell phone few months ago by getting bluetooth so more using hands to hold cell phone. I always try too look into long term so spending $800 for quick fix for few thousand miles was not in my budget.

I just picked up a 2002 with a tranny that shifts perfect in forward gears, but slips in reverse, any idea if the valve body would help this or should I just pick up a remanufactured tranny!

akgolfpro said:

I just picked up a 2002 with a tranny that shifts perfect in forward gears, but slips in reverse, any idea if the valve body would help this or should I just pick up a remanufactured tranny!

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How many miles on tranny? You could try to change fluid but I dougth that it will help, valve body might fix the problem if you DIY otherwise its not worthed. If you don't want spend $$$ on remanufactured tranny then you can do manual swap cost way less then remanfactured one.

Losha said:

How many miles on tranny? You could try to change fluid but I dougth that it will help, valve body might fix the problem if you DIY otherwise its not worthed. If you don't want spend $$$ on remanufactured tranny then you can do manual swap cost way less then remanfactured one.

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the car has 150K! My Mechanic is checking it out right now! I think I'm going to go with a Remanufactured from Holland Transmission, they use all original parts in the tranny and it comes with a 2 Year unlimited mileage warranty! $1950 Wholesale price shipped, sounds a lot better than the nearly $3K for the reman from the dealer!

akgolfpro said:

the car has 150K! My Mechanic is checking it out right now! I think I'm going to go with a Remanufactured from Holland Transmission, they use all original parts in the tranny and it comes with a 2 Year unlimited mileage warranty! $1950 Wholesale price shipped, sounds a lot better than the nearly $3K for the reman from the dealer!

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That seems like reasonable price, I hope it would last you long time & those guys know how to rebuilt VW transmissions. Not like one Master Certified mechanic that rebuilds transmission rebuilded TDI auto transmission for one tdiclub member and put wrong fluid in and green coolant. From day one the transmission only shifter into 1-2-3 no 4th so the owner decided to do manual swap. After I removed that transmission couple hours ago I right away noticed that the reason it never function properly because he used WRONG transmission fluid. So good luck and keep us posted.

Losha, did you do the manual swap?? How hard was it and where did you get the info to do it?? I would like to give it a shot

S.

sambagis said:

Losha, did you do the manual swap?? How hard was it and where did you get the info to do it?? I would like to give it a shot

S.

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I've done two of them, one of them was on my golf. Its not to complicated as long as you following instructions closely and have patients. Its basacilly bolt off one part, bolt on another part then cut some wires and recode ECU. There is a thread by Alphasenior on how to doe manual swap. PM me with your email and I will email you list of parts & wiring diagram instructions.

Would you mind send this info my way as well?

My auto is still working fne, but it can't hurt to start rounding up parts for the inevitable.

Shawn

Losha said:

I've done two of them, one of them was on my golf. Its not to complicated as long as you following instructions closely and have patients. Its basacilly bolt off one part, bolt on another part then cut some wires and recode ECU. There is a thread by Alphasenior on how to doe manual swap. PM me with your email and I will email you list of parts & wiring diagram instructions.

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Holy cow, I totally forgot about this thread.

Well, I have a new trans now. My clutch pack went out at a little while ago, and I figured it was time to throw in the towel and pony up for a new trans. I guess the old one cold have been rebuilt, but after a disintegrating clutch pack had its way with the internals, I don't think it would have been very reliable.

Oddly enough, I still have some shifting issues. Namely slamming into third, but only during low speed driving after I get done with at least an hour of driving on the highway. It never does it after short highway drives or in the city.

Similar shifting anomalies

camelman said:

Holy cow, I totally forgot about this thread.

Well, I have a new trans now. My clutch pack went out at a little while ago, and I figured it was time to throw in the towel and pony up for a new trans. I guess the old one cold have been rebuilt, but after a disintegrating clutch pack had its way with the internals, I don't think it would have been very reliable.

Oddly enough, I still have some shifting issues. Namely slamming into third, but only during low speed driving after I get done with at least an hour of driving on the highway. It never does it after short highway drives or in the city.

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My partner's new $4600 transmission behaves similarly after getting off the highway....harsh upshift followed by downshift. I wonder if the control module should have been reflashed in conjunction with the new transmission.

Dave

I'd try a transmission reset first -

with key off, push accelerator to floor. turn key to ON (but do not start), leave for 15 seconds. Then key off. Release throttle. Transmission is now reset to factory, and will start "learning".

I don't know how many times I've posted this and people still get it wrong.

The procedure scooperhsd should have posted is: turn the key to ON (but do not start), push pedal to the floor for at least 5 seconds, release the pedal, then turn off the key.

When a transmissoin is replaced, one needs to use VCDS to reset basic settings and clear fault codes (if any). The above procedure resets the sport mode and TCM knowledge of the pedal 100% depressed and kick-down positions.

I did a search on TCM threads, and found some interesting info. Please look at the links below to read up on what I found. I'm going to try an engine coolant sensor replacement and trans fluid sensor replacement (I'm going to replace the trans sensor first).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=228398&highlight=tcm
Check out PRUZINK's comment on trans fluid temp sensors. This could very well explain the harsh shifts after highway driving (or any operating conditions where the engine oil can change drastically).

http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200806/ai_n27994853/pg_3
(please read the third page about half way down) This author apparently knows a history on the 01M that I have not read about before. This also points towards the trans fluid sensor being bad.

I wonder if replacing that sensor would have extended the life of my original trans.

Camelman, how many miles were on your trans when you finally gave up and replaced it?

Thanks Camelman!

I have an 02 with a O1M and am having trouble with it surging. I am working with CoolAirVW on trying to fix this thing. I agree that if the VW reman shops can fix these, so can others. The valve body replacement is intreguing. CoolAirVW has some good ideas and we are will be experiencing with mine. It is a long distance experiment since I live in Lex. KY and he lives in Kansas City, Mo. But your post gives me hope.

Thanks,

Woodeye

I had my 01M tranny overhauled about 5000 miles ago, and ATF changed again 3000 miles ago. At first, it functioned well but lately i'm experiencing harsh shifts at 1-2, 2-3, 3h to 3m is very smooth, but 3m-4m goes occasionally with a bang. I checked the tranny for fault codes, but nothing is stored.
I know that the valve body is stock, it wasn't changed or overhauled.
What should i do next? Should i try to reset the throttle angle, check the function of ATF temperature sensor or are there any other things to check? I'v spent so much money on that tranny already and don't want to swap for manual yet

Just bought my son a 2002 with bad head and found TC slipping when we got running, Did the Sonnex TC spool valve upgrade and it seems to work a little better than got worse on hwy. Friend had a new trans computer, Tried and it has fixed!!! The Sonnex kit is a big improvement. Really shifts firm into overdrive.

Update on my new trans.

40k miles on new "rebuilt" factory 01M. Car was shifting poorly, especially after being driven for more than 30 miles on the interstate at 70mph or more. I swapped out the MAF (original with 192k miles) and the shifting has dramatically improved. Still have yet to take it for a long highway commute with the new MAF, so no statement on the hot shifting issues yet.

Anyway, it isn't the fix for the 01M, but a bad MAF can definitely have an impact on shifts.

Camelman

MAF definitely affects the functioning of the trasmission. I swapped my MAF (as the old one was toast) for Bosch OEM MAF and now the tranny shifts much better. Earlier it started slamming gears after a few minutes of driving but now there are days when it shifts good all day long. But sometimes it still starts slamming all the gears, no matter if shifting up or down. Haven't found a solution for this problem yet.

I'm going to sign up to this thread for updates and more great info. Gonna read more now from the links posted in here. I picked up my 2002 Jetta GLS TDI with the automatic tranny this past saturday. Thanks for the great info so far, guys

... "camelMan"... we are practically neighbors...

"CamelMan",
I'm glad I found this/your THREAD...
Yes, you are close enough to be my neighbor!
I put my Son in his new/used 2002 Jetta TDI last summer and
I have been catching up on a variety of maintenance that was
either overdue or had an unknown status!

With help from a MBZ INDY mechanic/friend, we also did a little
surgery on the car's IP after the QA locked up and we needlessly
played with sensors for 3 weeks while it remained a NO START!
It's back running now and we will do another internal inspection
in a couple more months... to see IF there is more metal
collected on the magnet plate inside!

I am now looking to do what I like to call a
"full service on the 01M tranny"
and in doing my due diligence reSEARCH on this to
try and accomplish a full drain/flush on the fluid, I
recently picked up a single new OE "banjo-like" bolt
like the two that fasten the cooler onto the tranny.

I have my local machine shop modifying this bolt by
drilling it out and tapping the top head so that a brass ¼”
pipe X 3/8” barbed hose fitting can be screwed into the head.
The whole idea is to be able to use the tranny's pump
to expel most of what remains of the 9+L(s) of fluid...
that is after I first do the normal dropping of the pan and inspection!
Q1 - What do you think in general of the direction I am going to try and
do a complete fluid exchange?
I'm thinking the next service will be within 50K miles and
depending upon the pan inspection then,
I would probably only change fluid and filter as per normally done...
replacing 3 to 4 L(s) of fluid!

Q2 – Do you have an suggestions as to the best sequence for draining the fluid…
e.g. should I leave the old fluid in the pan and the old filter on also…
this while I pump out/measure as much as I can with my drain hose
adapter fitting? OR

Q3 – Do you think I should do a normal partial fluid draining of the fluid in the pan…
Followed by adding back the same amount of new fluid to the pan so that when
I flush via the drain hose adapter I will have fresh fluid flushing through the
tranny’s internals… while I capture 100% of the pump’s discharge via the
drain hose adapter… while also adding back additional new fluid to the pan…
at say l liter per flush…?

OR do you think all this is going overboard!?
Glad I found this THREAD!
Sam Ross
Novato, Ca

I have been having mpg problems since I have ran over a curb. Down to 36 on hwy from 46. Anyway thought I had tranny problems, had the fluid changed and still had shifting problems. Found out that mechanic was turning engine off after reaching proper temp on Vag com.

ended up replacing valve body with rebuilt one using sonnax sure cure kit, and changed fluid myself. Shifts fine now.

But I still have MPG issues, and was wondering if my car is not going in to overdrive. At 75 MPH I am at 2550 RPM's is that to high?

seaglf said:

I have been having mpg problems since I have ran over a curb. Down to 36 on hwy from 46. Anyway thought I had tranny problems, had the fluid changed and still had shifting problems. Found out that mechanic was turning engine off after reaching proper temp on Vag com.

ended up replacing valve body with rebuilt one using sonnax sure cure kit, and changed fluid myself. Shifts fine now.

But I still have MPG issues, and was wondering if my car is not going in to overdrive. At 75 MPH I am at 2550 RPM's is that to high?

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my rpm's are right around there as well.