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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old December 23rd, 2017, 09:17   #1
Stromaluski
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Default Upgraded SMIC for Jetta

Does anybody have any more information on what exactly doesn't fit about the pwrhaus mk3 intercooler? I found two threads that both say they aren't a direct replacement, but neither goes into detail (or at least doesn't anymore since the pictures no longer work).

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=417608
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=412539
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 09:39   #2
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Looks like mounting and duct works need some fab to fit. From what I gather about the other threads is that it’s not a 100% bolt on part and that there is probably not enough room in that spot for this unless you get creative. If you have the means to weld aluminum or some basic skills you can make this work. Check out Alumaloy. It’s a brazing rod that melts at 800*F. imagine welding with a soft almost melting crayon. It’s not too difficult to use and won’t melt out the aluminum your working with. I have made many parts using it. All you need is a Stainless Steel wire brush in the small and the medium size and that welding rod and a plumbers welding torch with a propane bottle, MAP gas is a bit too hot for this stuff but can work. Some use fluxes but I go for the one that does not.

IMO go with a front mount 27x7x2 or a smaller. I got the 27x7x2 to fit without cutting the rebar to death. Just had to do a bit of trimming on the lower lip and cutting the tabs on the AC condenser and welding them back on with the condenser much closer to the radiator. If you put electric fans on the radiator and modify the mounting on the radiator to push it back 1 inch and mod the AC b rackets and trim a bit off the lower lip on the rebar you can make it fit. You can check out my build. I’ll send you pictures if you want. I think it will be about the same amount of work to make this one fit vs a FMIC.
IMO upgrading the side intercooler is a small gain compared to a FMIC. If you want to go big and not go fmic go with a water to air side mount. Its more work and $$$ but saves room.
Water injection can be done for about $100-$150 and would be the most compact way to go for EGT control. Get an Auber EGT gauge and wire the relay into the pump system.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Mongler98; December 23rd, 2017 at 09:43.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 09:44   #3
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I got an ebay kit for the pipe and the FMIC but you need to clean the pipes out 100% as the mandrel bending leaves aluminum flakes behind.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 09:52   #4
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http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=387812
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 11:23   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
Looks like mounting and duct works need some fab to fit. From what I gather about the other threads is that itís not a 100% bolt on part and that there is probably not enough room in that spot for this unless you get creative. If you have the means to weld aluminum or some basic skills you can make this work. Check out Alumaloy. Itís a brazing rod that melts at 800*F. imagine welding with a soft almost melting crayon. Itís not too difficult to use and wonít melt out the aluminum your working with. I have made many parts using it. All you need is a Stainless Steel wire brush in the small and the medium size and that welding rod and a plumbers welding torch with a propane bottle, MAP gas is a bit too hot for this stuff but can work. Some use fluxes but I go for the one that does not.

IMO go with a front mount 27x7x2 or a smaller. I got the 27x7x2 to fit without cutting the rebar to death. Just had to do a bit of trimming on the lower lip and cutting the tabs on the AC condenser and welding them back on with the condenser much closer to the radiator. If you put electric fans on the radiator and modify the mounting on the radiator to push it back 1 inch and mod the AC b rackets and trim a bit off the lower lip on the rebar you can make it fit. You can check out my build. Iíll send you pictures if you want. I think it will be about the same amount of work to make this one fit vs a FMIC.
IMO upgrading the side intercooler is a small gain compared to a FMIC. If you want to go big and not go fmic go with a water to air side mount. Its more work and $$$ but saves room.
Water injection can be done for about $100-$150 and would be the most compact way to go for EGT control. Get an Auber EGT gauge and wire the relay into the pump system.

Hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice, but thst's way more work than I'm looking to do.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 11:34   #6
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well let us all know how you got it to fit because int he last 30 minutes i could not find one single post anywhere on the internet about this issue for this upgrade. Im sure someone has but isnt sharing. Just curios, why the upgrade? Uping the boost can do the same thing as this can for EGT's More boost and or water/Meth, or just water injection might be your go to for this.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 11:36   #7
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and FYI, the work to make my FMIC was only about 6 hours of work.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 14:11   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mongler98 View Post
well let us all know how you got it to fit because int he last 30 minutes i could not find one single post anywhere on the internet about this issue for this upgrade. Im sure someone has but isnt sharing. Just curios, why the upgrade? Uping the boost can do the same thing as this can for EGT's More boost and or water/Meth, or just water injection might be your go to for this.
I was just looking at upgrading because I have to replace my intercooler anyway. One of the POs of my car left the headlight bulb out of the housing at one point and turned on the headlights. Melted the housing and a spot on the intercooler. I replaced the headlight shortly after buying the car, but the intercooler held pressure until just a few days ago. There's now a small hole in the middle of the melted spot. With what I've been reading, I have a feeling that I will simply end up getting another stock intercooler.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 14:25   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stromaluski View Post
I was just looking at upgrading because I have to replace my intercooler anyway. One of the POs of my car left the headlight bulb out of the housing at one point and turned on the headlights. Melted the housing and a spot on the intercooler. I replaced the headlight shortly after buying the car, but the intercooler held pressure until just a few days ago. There's now a small hole in the middle of the melted spot. With what I've been reading, I have a feeling that I will simply end up getting another stock intercooler.
I like the idea of fmic but so much work making sure that it's all properly fitted. If you do decide to go with factory replacement LMK, I think I have a spare Mk3 cooler I'd be willing to sell off.

I'd really like it if the pasenger cavity on the Mk3 wasn't filled with AC junk and horn stuff, I'd try installing another cooler over there ala 2.7T Audi cars.

Steve
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 14:36   #10
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I also have a stock mk3 TDI intercooler in excellent shape, i ave all the parts i took off when i did my build. If you are interested it is also for sale.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 16:36   #11
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If it’s just a melted hole you’re dealing with, I’d prep it and pack some Quick Steel, on it. I’d bet it would work.

-Todd
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 19:14   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Addy View Post
I like the idea of fmic but so much work making sure that it's all properly fitted. If you do decide to go with factory replacement LMK, I think I have a spare Mk3 cooler I'd be willing to sell off.

I'd really like it if the pasenger cavity on the Mk3 wasn't filled with AC junk and horn stuff, I'd try installing another cooler over there ala 2.7T Audi cars.

Steve
I agree on both statements. The older I get, the less I enjoy heavily modifying things, because inevitably there will be something that I didn't think of that will cause a failure of some sort. I also like the idea of the dual SMIC, and was tempted to pull a setup off of one of the 225hp TTs that I came across in a junkyard, but it was not even close to fitting on anything else from what I read.

Quote:
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If itís just a melted hole youíre dealing with, Iíd prep it and pack some Quick Steel, on it. Iíd bet it would work.

-Todd
I've also been tempted to try that. Not really sure yet what I'm going to try. No point in ordering anything in the next couple days.

Judging by the pictures on ECS Tuning, it almost looks like the new OEM intercoolers have metal end tanks?

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...er/1h0145805b/
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 19:34   #13
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I’d be more tempted to fix it for $5, lol. I never really looked at the Jetta IC... do one of the outlets unbolt?

-Todd
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 19:39   #14
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Iíd be more tempted to fix it for $5, lol. I never really looked at the Jetta IC... do one of the outlets unbolt?

-Todd
It does, and there is an oring between the intercooler and the outlet. I'll make sure to get a picture when I take mine apart.
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Old December 23rd, 2017, 19:45   #15
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Interesting.... as much as VW skimps to save money, the fact they add extra parts on the A3 is counter intuitive.

The interior power lock switch is another example. Btw, the A3 tilt column is a joke; it may as well be fixed position.

-Todd
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