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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old January 16th, 2018, 08:53   #6811
Yblocker
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I think my Car Part.com inquiry for a used intercooler has attrcated the attention of a seller. I don't know how, but he sent me a PM on the forum.

He wanted $550 and when I said no thanks, he dropped to $360 shipped which still seems pretty high.

What do you guys think?
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Old January 16th, 2018, 11:51   #6812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yblocker View Post
I think my Car Part.com inquiry for a used intercooler has attrcated the attention of a seller. I don't know how, but he sent me a PM on the forum.
He wanted $550 and when I said no thanks, he dropped to $360 shipped which still seems pretty high.
What do you guys think?
What is the issue with the existing IC?
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Old January 16th, 2018, 12:05   #6813
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It holds boost, but it's leaking oil from someplace above the lower hose connection- likely at a seam. It's not a profuse leak; it leaves a drop on the ground every other day if the car is driven consistently.

So I've been looking from time to time for a replacement. ToddA1 re-sealed his, but it sounded like it was difficult to re-crimp the tanks back on.

But $360 is more than I'm willing to pay.
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Old January 16th, 2018, 15:42   #6814
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Originally Posted by lisab4 View Post
Hi Todd,
Thanks for the link. The listing says you should get a link to a PDF with images and installation guide with your order. Maybe on a piece of paper, or in an e-mail?
Hi Todd;
Please do post on how this fits and works out.

I wonder if these are retrofitted used OEM controls, or newly manufactured controls. If newly manufactured, are they Far East cheap aftermarket parts, or better quality?

Will definitely consider as the Climate controls on both of my B4s are near death or completely dead.
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Old January 16th, 2018, 17:39   #6815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yblocker View Post
ToddA1 re-sealed his, but it sounded like it was difficult to re-crimp the tanks back on.

You never heard me say that. Worst part was being sure everything was clean for the Ultra Gray. A flat drift and a mallet was used to recrimp/fold over the tabs.


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Originally Posted by TDIL3dad View Post
Please do post on how this fits and works out.

I havenít looked for the paperwork to see if there was a link.

LL showed what was involved. Iíve seen others do the same and I donít really want to be bothered.

-Todd
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Old January 16th, 2018, 19:31   #6816
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Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
You never heard me say that. Worst part was being sure everything was clean for the Ultra Gray. A flat drift and a mallet was used to recrimp/fold over the tabs. -Todd
Sorry Todd- guess I heard it from someone else. I may yet do this for no other reason that there is no guarantee that a different used one will be any better.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 08:08   #6817
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For $550 it should come with an attached engine.

Even $360 is pretty insane unless it's new in box.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 12:35   #6818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
You never heard me say that. -Todd
I was the one that said that I found crimping them to be a pain in the rear.

probably my lack of patience... but I decided to switch to a small aluminum FMIC rather than try to reseal another factory side mount with plastic ends.

I picked up my last used one from a boneyard for $40... for the $360 he is asking, you can go to a metal shop that builds them and have a new sidemount made from all aluminum.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 12:46   #6819
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Yeah, $360 aint gonna happen. It's not a huge leak really. I may address it when the timing belt comes due this Spring.
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Old January 18th, 2018, 15:15   #6820
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Originally Posted by ketchupshirt88 View Post
I picked up my last used one from a boneyard for $40... for the $360 he is asking, you can go to a metal shop that builds them and have a new sidemount made from all aluminum.

Thinking about it, I think I paid $20 for one from a local JY. That was the only A3/B4 TDI that Iíve ever seen in a JY, and that had to be 2 summers ago.

With some cardboard, Iím sure you could cut templates to make the tanks and have a shop weld them to your core.

Personally, Iíd just reseal it. You have nothing to lose.

-Todd
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Old January 18th, 2018, 16:46   #6821
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Originally Posted by Yblocker View Post
It holds boost, but it's leaking oil from someplace above the lower hose connection- likely at a seam. It's not a profuse leak; it leaves a drop on the ground every other day if the car is driven consistently.

So I've been looking from time to time for a replacement. ToddA1 re-sealed his, but it sounded like it was difficult to re-crimp the tanks back on.

But $360 is more than I'm willing to pay.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Thinking about it, I think I paid $20 for one from a local JY. That was the only A3/B4 TDI that Iíve ever seen in a JY, and that had to be 2 summers ago.

With some cardboard, Iím sure you could cut templates to make the tanks and have a shop weld them to your core.

Personally, Iíd just reseal it. You have nothing to lose.

-Todd
Wouldn't doubt it, but the Mk3 are plentiful whereas the B4 not so much. There were never all that many B4 tdi's in the US and now 20 years later I would bet less than 50% of the original imports remain.

It's too bad they didn't share the same cooler, there were a bunch of Mk3 tdi's in 98 and early 99. Info I've seen says only 2% of the Mk3 cars in 1997 were TDI. Any way you slice it though there were more Mk3 than B4.

I'm with Todd, just try and reseal it and if that fails find a welding shop that will replicate the end caps in aluminum.

Steve
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Old January 22nd, 2018, 18:29   #6822
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Fixed a fuel leak on the B4. First time I’ve driven it in a few weeks, and I noticed a large stain in the street, as I pulled up to the house. Opened the hood and fuel was leaking pretty badly. Left another 2x4 stain, in less than a minute.

Tracked it down to a split return hose at the IP. Replaced all the jumpers and soaked the engine and street down in degreaser. Hosed off the engine, but left the street alone. Rain is coming in, and I figure I’d let it soak.

-Todd
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Old January 22nd, 2018, 19:03   #6823
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Just got the B4V back from 4 days in the shop.

1) Front motor mount steel was cracked, rubber was fine. Welded the steel. Seems fine now.

2) Replaced the oil pan gasket again. Last one was only a year old. This time sealant used on both sides of the entire gasket.

3) Replaced all 4 CV joints at the same time. Only one side really needed replacement and could have milked the other side a while longer. BUT, now both sides are done and should be good. New parts are TRW.

Shop had a heck of time finding the correct CV joints. In part because of my big brake conversion (VR6 brakes), but mostly because B4 parts are just simply getting hard to find in the marketplace.
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Old January 22nd, 2018, 23:13   #6824
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I was just reviewing my spare parts collection yesterday and it does not include a working starter. It does include three inop starters though, not that those do much good.

I would prefer to keep a working spare in the group since I know my wagon starter is not OE. Now to decide whether to have one rebuilt locally or look at getting a Bosch reman unit.

Steve
Steve, I ended up picking up a Bosch reman. Luckily I'm very good friends with the manager of a local Napa, so I get parts at cost.

Since I last posted on this thread, I've had to make many wire repairs. Mostly the injection pump wiring. My injection pump is clearly not the one that originally came with the car. Looks brand new. I have a feeling someone replaced the pump thinking it would solve underfueling issues, when it was actually a completely broken quantity adjustor wire. Also some wires were bypassed At the plug, so I redid them with solder and heat shrink instead of the butt connectors that were there. I was a little upset at the hacked up pump wiring, but then I remembered I have an 11mm alh pump with the wiring cut back about a foot....just need to find a vnt17 before I can justify the swap.

Let's see what else have I done. Completely refreshed front end, short of struts. New snow tires and alignment obviously. After all that was squared away, my nice tight steering revealed a little bit of play in the rack. Not doing anything about it until it's scary.

Finally got around to timing the pump and tweaking IQ after I cleaned injector nozzles and put them on mk4 bodies. Had to ghetto rig a "flow tester" (which was a little rubber boot that came off the backside of a bmw e36 head light. One end fits in nozzle, the other is just big enough for your standard blow gun) to make sure all five holes were spraying. Have some .216 nozzles on the original injector bodies waiting for me to have time to either a) fix my pop tester, or b) get them pop tested and balanced by JasonTDR. I've also got a vnt15 swap on standby to get my foot in the door of vnt and replace my dying turbo. Gotta wait til funds are available for the tune.

Ooooh and I've mounted a double din stereo in the cubby hole under the ashtray. The original stereo slot now has a 3d printed gauge pod waiting to be mounted. I think I may finally fit that tomorrow and take some pictures.
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Old January 24th, 2018, 05:44   #6825
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I've had all the parts to swap over to a BHW turbo for a few months now. Finally took the plunge and started in on it over the weekend since the weather was nice. It was about 60/65 and sunny all weekend. Nice change from the snow we had the weekend before.

Got as far as getting the car mostly disassembled. Found a few things that I'll have to deal with. Like whoever put the Techtonics Tuning exhaust on the car back in 1999/2000 welded all the connections. So the exhaust is one piece from the turbo to the tailpipe. Have to break out the sawzall, I suppose. I have to change the downpipe because the flange on the turbo is changing. Picked up an aftermarket ALH downpipe, which I'm told will work, but we'll find out...

Also found that my turbo inlet pipe is trashed. Both of the hold down tabs at the turbo are broken off and the pipe is split right at the turbo, as well. Found one on ebay in Latvia and figured I'd give it a try, so I ordered one. I'm not holding out a whole lot of hope that it's the right one (or that it's not junk), but we'll find out. I'm also not positive that it will even work. Using the BHW turbo and exhaust manifold moves the turbo up about an inch or so and moves it toward the back of the car slightly. I'm hoping there is enough play in the accordion pipe to accommodate the movement. And that there's enough hood/raintray clearance to accommodate, as well. I won't be 100% sure until I put it all together.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Vol...72.m2749.l2649

Figured I would send the head off to Frank while I have the opportunity. Also going to contact DBW and see about sending the injectors back in for them to be checked. Again, simply because I have the opportunity. They have about 30k miles on them.


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