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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old March 6th, 2014, 14:00   #46
tdidieselbobny
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I can't remember what I used last year(I think it was the sticky felt from Walmart-tape kept getting stuck together),but it's holding up so far,with the winter we've had and using the heater non-stop when driving.Of course,I haven't torn the dash apart to physically see.....
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Old March 7th, 2014, 11:56   #47
artie b
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This is what I used. The aluminum is thin, as I didn't think we has a lot of static pressure to tear it. I liked the -30 to 350* I tested to 450* and it didn't shrink and stayed on. Menards, Be kind this is my first photo to this site, Artie
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Old March 8th, 2014, 15:48   #48
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This is what I used. The aluminum is thin, as I didn't think we has a lot of static pressure to tear it. I liked the -30 to 350* I tested to 450* and it didn't shrink and stayed on. Menards, Be kind this is my first photo to this site, Artie
I got the exact same thing and am planning on doing it this week. I asked the guy at the store if he knew how long it should last and he said "probably 30 years or better". I don't know whether he's right about that but it's better than hearing something worse.
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Old March 12th, 2014, 11:37   #49
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I also used HVAC rated aluminum tape, but wish I would've done it differently now. Don't get me wrong, the tape works great and stays stuck. The issue is that you still need some type of foam or rubber to get a tight seal when you change the vent settings on the knob.

Heat blows out of all the openings now to some degree even when the knob is turned to the floor / feet setting or vice versa. This can be overridden by shutting the upper vents manually, but is still a little annoying.

If I had to do it again, I would start with the aluminum tape and then put a coat of thin felt, rubber, or gasket material to get an air tight seal on everything.

Not a fun job at all.
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Old March 13th, 2014, 13:50   #50
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One added option whilst you have access to the airbag mounts for the passenger side.... Remove the airbag completely. Buy a B3 glove box and install in its place - the glove box is unchanged for the B4. Plug a 1.8 ohm resistor into the airbag connector and the airbag warning light will not come on. You get: (1) A proper glove box. (2) Rid of an explosive device in your passenger's face. Similar can be done for the driver: unplug airbag & insert another 1.8 ohm there, remount the now inert airbag. Remember: those airbags were the Ralph Nader full-explosive-force ones that can snap your neck.

Did the 1.8 ohm resistor work for you?
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Old June 8th, 2014, 14:13   #51
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Just a newbie question. I have a 1998 jetta tdi and I have the foam in the vents. My ac is not cold which could e a few things but the clutch engages (it makes a slight noise which could be the bearing) and the system actually read high on the high side (smaller port?) pressure using a junky gauge you get with an ac recharge kit.
Ac on fan on high turned to cold it blows warm air turn it to hot and it's hot air. Never cool or cold.

I am assuming I need to do this fix on my car. Which I guess is considered and a3?

This is my first vw so I'm scouring for info. I'm loving it though! These cars are great.
Thanks for any help.
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Old June 8th, 2014, 15:28   #52
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Rusty,
Yes, you have an A3.

You really need a set of gauges to properly diagnose what's going on...or what's not going on.

AutoZone has loaner sets. I don't trust them, though. You never know what contaminants you migh pick up.

Almost any auto parts store has a set for~$75. Or you could buy a set at harbor freight. Any auto magazine has a 20% off coupon.

You'll also want to start your own troubleshooting thread. Pm me the thread and I'll see what I can do to help.

Tony
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Old September 25th, 2014, 07:56   #53
Big Daddy Roth
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I get the HVAC tape, but tell me about the foamy stuff you guys are using.
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Old October 12th, 2014, 20:08   #54
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I get the HVAC tape, but tell me about the foamy stuff you guys are using.
I believe the foil covered foam tape is really pipe insulating tape. I was tempted to buy some at the farm and home but remembered I had some sticky backed felt that wasn't doing anything.

For those who do the door repair but still have air coming out where it shouldn't, it may be because there are actually two doors with the foam covering inside the housing and both of those metal doors are perforated. The second one (that you can't see when doing the repair from the front) is actually a dual action door with two flaps instead of one.

Here's a pic of both covered in felt. Since I had the housing out to replace it (old one was infected with mouse stink) I opted to separate the heater housing side and take care of both doors.
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Last edited by Steve Addy; October 13th, 2014 at 08:41.
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Old October 13th, 2014, 12:26   #55
Big Daddy Roth
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I ended up just covering the doors with foil tape. I've got hands like a well hung lesbian, so it was hard to get my fingers in there.

Foam is key for a complete seal.
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Old October 13th, 2014, 12:58   #56
ToddA1
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On the B4V, I split the box and used the tape and felt. I created a good seal.

The issue is the foam is also missing on the dash vent dampers. Closing the vents, now creates an irritating whistle on speeds 2 and higher. I need to redirect top the windshield to stop it.

-Todd
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Old October 13th, 2014, 16:35   #57
Steve Addy
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On the B4V, I split the box and used the tape and felt. I created a good seal.

The issue is the foam is also missing on the dash vent dampers. Closing the vents, now creates an irritating whistle on speeds 2 and higher. I need to redirect top the windshield to stop it.

-Todd
Yes, that's a problem too, I agree. Not really sure what a person can do about it. IIRC the original foam is a thin piece either applied to the edge of the flap or fitted into a U channel that's plastic. Been a while since I looked at it.
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Old October 13th, 2014, 18:02   #58
ToddA1
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The damper is actually 2 pieces that sandwiches the foam. I tried to recreate it with felt, but I couldn't get the 2 pieces to snap back together. I need to revisit.

-Todd
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Old November 2nd, 2014, 12:24   #59
artie b
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Would using a large O-Ring in the groove help with sealing the vent grilles doors?
Should help with the annoying whistle.
I have a couple of heater boxes and dashes out and will look at this possible solution.
I can't remember how much gap their was? Artie
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Last edited by artie b; November 2nd, 2014 at 16:36.
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Old November 2nd, 2014, 16:48   #60
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There's maybe 1/16" all the way around.

-Todd
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