My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) 'How to'

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Thank you for the good idea. After a visit with the hacksaw and the dremmel the egr won't be clogging up again. I can't tell if I have more power, or if it is just a plecebo affect. There is definitly less smoke though. I have a hard time getting it to smoke now. I think I may miss the smoke a bit. I love smoking people when they ride my butt.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

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Thank you for the good idea. After a visit with the hacksaw and the dremmel the egr won't be clogging up again. I can't tell if I have more power, or if it is just a plecebo affect. There is definitly less smoke though. I have a hard time getting it to smoke now. I think I may miss the smoke a bit. I love smoking people when they ride my butt.

[/ QUOTE ]

Cool. Welcome to the SRP club /images/graemlins/tongue.gif

I am happy to see that I was not just seeing things and it did actually reduce my smoke. I tested it tonight with the headlight test. Instead of a huge cloud a la Batman, It only left a puff. It still smokes, but less than before. My only problem is that I didn't know if it was the SRP that did it or if the port matching was responsible. Now that there is a second one, I guess it does work. Woo hoo.

Anyone else trying this? Please post results.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

[ QUOTE ]
Anyone else trying this? Please post results.

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As soon as I can find a cheap EGR pipe I will do it in short order.

-Jack

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Well, I just did this too.




Thanks wingnut! Of note, I couldnt find any bolts big enough with a fine thread anywhere except for a fastener specific shop. All he had were harder than grade 8. They were some crazy mil-spec. I could hardly cut them, let alone grind them smooth with the aluminum. I wound up going to autozone and found some replacement oil pan plugs that worked great!

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Wow, nice job oldpoopie. Sorry to hear about your turbo though. As for the bolt I used, I work with heavy equipment, so finding a large stray bolt lying around was easy. But for future versions, I have found a place that will weld up the hole for real cheap. Much easier to smooth aluminum than steel.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

As a side question, how was the plastic shutdown valve removed?

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Not sure I understand the question. The plastic shutdown valve is still there and operational. It was only removed for the fabrication so it would not get broken. I put it back on for full anti shudder capabilities.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

I figured out the answer. I put a screwdriver blade in the slit in the arm and pushed some. This spread out the hole end enough so I could remove the arm from the pointed metal arm.

On a side note, I personally discovered the effect that parts cleaner has on rubber parts. While I removed the anti-shudder valve for safety, I did not do anything with the egr actuator since I wasn't going to use it anyway. I did forget, however, to remove the rubber o-ring. The o-ring got totally mishapen and brittle and the egr actuator wouldn't hold vacuum anymore, I assume because a rubber diaphragm inside tore.

However, it just ocurred to me, do I need the egr vacuum actuator to be intact? I'm hoping "no" but how does pressurized air not escape through the hole where the actuator rod goes through?

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Ok, sorry I misunderstood your last question. To remove the actuator arm from the valve lever, I use a heat gun or hairdryer to heat up the plastic. This will soften it so that it doesn't break when spreading it apart.

As for the diaphragn in the top of the EGR assembly, don't worry about it. Since the diaphragm will be disabled, it will not need to be operational. I don't think pressurized air can get past the piece of rod thats left from what was cut off. Here is a picture of the parts that are removed:


The rod shaft is sealed with a plastic bushing. You end up cutting most of it off when you remove the plunger, but there is still some left in the upper part of the housing. There is also a strong spring in the upper housing that will keep the rod & bushing in place. There are no worries about pressurized air escaping out of the SRP. But you will have to make sure that there is no vacuum trying to open that rod. Either disconnect the vacuum line going to the EGR or plug the vacuum nipple on top of the EGR and reattach the vacuum line. I just mixed up some epoxy & poured it into the nipple so there was no way to move the diaphragm.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Thanks. I'm hoping the parts cleaner had no effect on that plastic bushing then. It really did a number on that o-ring and the EGR actuator. Suction on the actuator has absolutely no effect now!

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

I filled the holes in the sides of the casting on my egr valve with JBweld. Then I put a sheet metal screw in the nipple at the top.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

is thre still a chance of runaway if you have disabled the ccv into the intake? there is no other chance of anything combustable keeping the motor running correct?

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

the only chance for a runaway in the above situation is if/when a turbo seal goes and belches ALL of your motor oil into your intake.

runaway + hydrolock =

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

And this is what the engine/turbo replacement process looks like. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showflat.php?C...=93&fpart=1
Sorry its in french. It took un around 30 hours in total to replace the engine. We should actually do the finishing touches this weekend. Have a look at the pictures of the broken turbo shaft

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Anyone want me to make them an SRP? I could use the funds to get an OMI

If I charged $35 to make one, then I would only need to do 3 to get an OMI. I have a core to get started with. I would SRP it, send it out and then get your core back and SRP it. Anyone?

Click to expand...

I would definetly pay you $35 for a "wingnut SRP" my email is zachlail@yahoo.com

Click to expand...

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

<font color="brown">I think I'm in for an SRP. E me back. </font>

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Thanks Kev.

But Mr Pink did mention a block off plate at the cooler. So if you remove the flex pipe & use a block off plate at the EGR cooler, there are no exhaust gasses going anywhere except the tail pipe.

Click to expand...

So what didyou use for block off plates? and did you block off both ends of the EGR gas cooler?

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Thanks Kev.

But Mr Pink did mention a block off plate at the cooler. So if you remove the flex pipe & use a block off plate at the EGR cooler, there are no exhaust gasses going anywhere except the tail pipe.

Click to expand...

So what didyou use for block off plates? and did you block off both ends of the EGR gas cooler?

Click to expand...

Yea exactly what i wanted to ask...i want to completly remove all EGR components.
What parts will i need to source?

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

I'm still confused. If this mod is done, especially on a '05 PD TDI, will a CEL show up??

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

pelican,

this mod is specific to an ALH 98-03 TDI motor.. not sure it applies to the PD motor.

on another note, Wingnut, are you still doing the SRP Swap service? I might be interested.

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Sorry Aaron. I am way too busy these days to make these units anymore. I should have edited my previous posts to reflect that. With 2 kids and a new position at work, my spare time is very limited. I made one for another member recently and it took me almost 2 months to get it back to him. It is really not that hard to make yourself with the correct tools and the pictures I provided. If you really want one, I can make one for you, but the price would have to be higher than the original $35. It takes me about 1 1/2 hours to make and I burn up drills & sanding discs like you wouldn't beleive. I have burned out 2 drills making these things. Granted, I was using $30 drills, but I am not going to buy a $100 drill to make a few $$$. If you still want one, let me know and we can work something out.

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Nigel,
Thanks for the reply, do you have a spare EGR I can work on? or know where to go to get one?>

I still need to golf tee my EGR to see if I will throw a code.. I am already VAG COMed to reduce egr.. and I drive an early 2000 so I should be good... need to just do it...

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Well i joined the SRP club last night, it wasnt that hard save for the grade 8 bolt i used to plug the hole, it was all i could find and it took me hours to grind down, in hind sight i should have just had it welded up. I have a question for all of you experts: I have not yet installed a block off plate at the exaust manifold, what will it hurt to let exaust go into the gas cooler with out actually going anywhere?

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Well i joined the SRP club last night, it wasnt that hard save for the grade 8 bolt i used to plug the hole, it was all i could find and it took me hours to grind down, in hind sight i should have just had it welded up. I have a question for all of you experts: I have not yet installed a block off plate at the exaust manifold, what will it hurt to let exaust go into the gas cooler with out actually going anywhere?

Click to expand...

I ran into the same problem, the only thing I could find to plug it was even harder than grade 8.... eeek. It took forever to grind down. Anyway, as far as the egr cooler block off, it wont matter. Dieselgeek sells his race pipe with a block off at the same point.

My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

You should know tho' you don't want a mirror finish in the intake. Dyno tests have shown that some inlet turbulance is a good thing and a high finish will lower the HP.

Click to expand...

Only true for intake passages where it is attempted to keep the charge well atomized such as in a gasser with a carb or throttle body injection, or perhaps intake passage past the injector on an MPI gasser. For a TDI, it's just trying to move air through there. A mirror finish won't detract.

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

A bump for this classic thread

this mod is specific to an ALH 98-03 TDI motor.. not sure it applies to the PD motor.

Click to expand...

Is there any reason why this would not work with a PD engine?

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

I don't think that this will work at all on a PD. The reason being that they are equipped with a O2 sensor. Not only does the ECU look for a decrease in flow past the MAF when the EGR is activated, but the O2 sensor is also looking for a reduction in the Oxygen content of the exhaust.

I think for the PD what we need is a resistor or something that mimics the voltage the O2 sensor is reading when the EGR is completely closed. Whatever that voltage is will keep the EGR valve closed all the time. Do that, and you don't have to worry about the MAF reading because the ECU will think that the EGR being open isn't at all necessary.

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

A bump for this classic thread

this mod is specific to an ALH 98-03 TDI motor.. not sure it applies to the PD motor.

Click to expand...

Is there any reason why this would not work with a PD engine?

Click to expand...

This is what I did on my '04 PD:

I blocked off the EGR pipe where it exits the exhaust gas cooler (home made stainless plate, gasketed on both sides with an EGR pipe gasket). The EGR valve can be left alone since it will not block the intake manifold as it cycles open. I also removed the (electrically-operated on the PDs) throttle plate inside the intake manifold. This sits next to the EGR valve (Its electrical on the PDs too). I did this to eliminate the intake manifold vacuum that happens when the plate cycles closed for more EGR flow into the intake. With the EGR plugged, this could cause excess intake vacuum and effeciency loss. This was last year. I got a little over 50 MPG on my last tank of fuel in combined city/highway driving. I have no visable smoke out the exhaust (where I used to get some on hard acceleration) and a nice clean intake manifold, I peeked by removing the EGR valve last month. I do have a CEL, though. Small price to pay. I'll scan for codes occassionally w/ my VAG-COM since my CEL is always on. Maybe it will burn out some day!

My understanding is that the O2 sensor is for feedback to fine tune (trim) and operate the EGR valve and EGR throttle plate ONLY and does not control any other items, such as injection timing, fueling, etc. I notice absolutely no difference in better or worse performance after this mod was done. But I no longer have an occassional engine surge. I equate this to no more oily soot building up in the intake manifold and flaking off and being burned with a corresponding brief burst of energy.

--Nate

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

Does EGR CEL affect timing fuel etc? Power/economy? on ALH 00-03 engines?

Re: My SRP (Stealth Race Pipe) \'How to\'

I have a 2003 ALH wagon. If I were to either plug the vacum line or make an SRP, in conjunction with the EGR VAG-COM mod, would I throw a CEL for sure? Could any mod be done to cure this? I have heard that a company can reprogram the ECU to completely turn off the EGR, but I want to keep this a reversible mod so that when low sulfur fuel arrives I can start being enviro friendly again.

Also, on the topic of block off plates and SRPs, would it be wise to block off the exhaust before the cooler and fully remove the cooler? The coolant lines could be either linked to each other or capped at their sources, no?

I have never dealt with a VAG-COM, but plan on getting one soon. For someone with experience, could the EGR parameter be limited to a very narrow range and then the MAF be essentially calibrated so that the discrepency caused by disabling the EGR would cancel out. If it works the way I am picturing, the EGR would be set to always deliver one ammount of volume, and at the same time, the MAF would be "calibrated" so that instead of now reporting the full volume of air entering the engine, it would report that volume minus the set volume that the computer thinks is entering though the EGR.

Again, this is only a theory, and as far as the extremities and dynamics of such a relationship, I have no idea. I don't even know if that could be achieved with the MAF with only a VAG-COM, but it would be sweet. We could just use golf tees and a 5 minute code fix to cure the soot problem forever.