Congrats! I must say in my case it has held about 6 months thus far, despite again local running. I was a bit sceptical initially like you, that it may not hold that long, since the chemical wouldn't be as effective as disassembling and cleaning. But this thing really seems to work. As long as you occasionally open it up on the open road to raise EGTs and no prob for you in SA, should be ok. I think probably why it is quite effective is because the chemical gets the big bits broken off and then afterwards raising EGTs is able to get the smaller bits, coming close to a full clean. For me as I said the key was letting the oven cleaner soak for a long time. Next time I would probably do it for a whole weekend.My car kept going into limp mode with over boosting error so i did this on my tdi over the weekend and man what a big difference.Filled the oven cleaner via the egr section on the turbo.
What i want to know now is how often you guys think this should be done?
Yes. Was referring to the down pipe. Thanks for your reply, gave me the determination to get back at it.The EGR port is only 2 bolts. But as you said if you still have the cooler it is tricky to get to. If you say 3 bolts maybe you are refering to the downpipe? Maybe the downpipe 3 bolts are easier to access if the EGR port is hard to get to. With the downpipe you have to grope a bit from below without line of sight but should be able to get them off. I have had my EGR cooler out so long I can't remember how it was before. You can just dowse the bolts and go for it when the everything is still hot as you can work with. The studs do sometimes come out with the nut but that is not a problem you can screw those back in or maybe get a new set beforehand. Not sure how much they salt the roads in Kansas but maybe the nuts are ok to get out. Only one way to find out. If the nuts/studs are really fused then you most likely wont be able to get them off easily anyway.
It's been a year since I did mine and it has not gummed up to the point of not being able to clear it out with WOT runs, despite mostly city driving. I am really surprised by this.So, how long does the Easy off last? Depends . I found that, once the USA switched to non-sulfur diesel, AND I fixed the over fueling issue, AND I got into the habit of blasting up long hills to clean out the crud from city driving, I haven't had to use the chemical cleaning any more. Still, it is easy enough to do, once you have done it the first time.
Did your turbo come with a new actuator?I tried it all didn’t work ended up installing new turbo. Works for many though!
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Did your turbo come with a new actuator?
Also, if my actuator moves properly when vacuum is applied with hand pump, does that mean my vanes are good, or could they still be problematic?
If vacuum pulls the actuator rod all the way down to the set-screw without any obvious catching, hanging, etc., your Vanes should be okay.
There's two valves that look the same under the hood n75 (turbo) and the egr actuator valve. Those are swapped to ensure the n75 isn't faulty.Hmm i hope someone can chime in with more info on that modulating valve
Yes i did that using my vagcom and it worked perfect; It doesnt make sense for the vanes to get gunked up as the turbo was good condition (less than 50k miles)
Can you elaborate on this, please?the difference between a wear stick at the top causing overboost and constant sticky due to gunk.
The lever that actuates the veins has a tendency to get worn and stick at wide open causing overboost.Can you elaborate on this, please?
So what if the first happens? It becomes irreversibly worn?The lever that actuates the veins has a tendency to get worn and stick at wide open causing overboost.
Otherwise, the soot builds up and causes the veins to be sticky all the way across.
The second usually causes the first.
This is the reason for driving hard to burn out the soot.
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