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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old November 23rd, 2012, 22:21   #1
shoebear
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Default 22 ft-lbs torque for turbo oil return line bolts? Really???

I have my turbo back from the G-Pop Shop after rebuild and have installed it. However, I really wonder whether 30 N-m (22 ft-lbs) (Bentley spec) is the right torque for the 2 small bolts that connect the oil return line to the bottom of the turbo. Typically, I would see about 15 ft-lbs on a small bolt like that. Also, I think one of the bolts started breaking before I got to 22 ft-lbs I stopped tightening, and hopefully I'll be able to remove it in one piece tomorrow.

I do have new bolts which I didn't use because the old ones looked OK. I'm thinking maybe I should replace both old bolts with the new ones, torque to 18 ft-lbs, and call it good.

Any words of wisdom?
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1998 Jetta TDi: Luk clutch, K04/K03 hybrid turbo, balanced Bosio DLC1019 stage1 nozzles, Kerma chip, braided turbo oil feed line, Frost Heater
2003 Jetta TDi wagon: Luk clutch, VNT17. Bought 9/2014, still doing initial repairs.
2005 New Beetle GLS TDi: Kerma "Dog Collar", Frost Heater, Panzer Plate, Evo lift, Koni yellows
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Old November 24th, 2012, 06:39   #2
tdidieselbobny
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When I did mine years ago-I used new bolts and snugged them up-didn't have a proper torque wrench then.They were fine. I suggest taking old bolts out and using the new ones,being you already have them. After a fill up or two,recheck w/torque wrench.
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Old October 18th, 2019, 19:03   #3
shanate
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This is totally wrong. I just snapped my bolt at about 12 ft lbs. Correct spec is 10 ft lbs. 11 max.
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Old October 18th, 2019, 21:38   #4
Mongler98
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not sure on beltly, but thats seems craycray high. like maybe the meant to say 130 inch lbs?

i would not go past 8 ft lb Red 272 locktight if your worried with it backing out! with clean bolts and clean dry threads. not like there is a lot it has to do!
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Old October 20th, 2019, 15:40   #5
shoebear
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Thanks, I agree!

Here's a new angle: I recently purchased a couple of digital torque meters based on strain gauge torque measurement -- the Neiko 20741A and 20742A. I clamp the male end in my bench vise and then set my click wrench to the correct torque based on the Neiko. I've found all my torque wrenches to be pretty inaccurate. For example, I've been torquing my lug nuts to 89 ft-lbs according to the wrench, but according to Neiko, I have to set the wrench at 103 ft-lbs to get an actual 89 ft-lbs. I've found similar inaccuracy in all the wrenches I tested, except for the first torque wrench I ever bought -- a Sears Craftsman -- which is still inaccurate, but a lot closer than my Harbor Freight and Tekton ones. I guess I got what I paid for. Now I wonder if I can calibrate my inaccurate wrenches myself? Will look for YouTube video on that.

So depending on your wrench, all this obsessing over getting the right torque may be for naught. And I do recommend the Neikos for showing you what your torque values really are.
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1998 Jetta TDi: Luk clutch, K04/K03 hybrid turbo, balanced Bosio DLC1019 stage1 nozzles, Kerma chip, braided turbo oil feed line, Frost Heater
2003 Jetta TDi wagon: Luk clutch, VNT17. Bought 9/2014, still doing initial repairs.
2005 New Beetle GLS TDi: Kerma "Dog Collar", Frost Heater, Panzer Plate, Evo lift, Koni yellows
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Old October 20th, 2019, 17:54   #6
ToddA1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shanate View Post
This is totally wrong. I just snapped my bolt at about 12 ft lbs. Correct spec is 10 ft lbs. 11 max.

Bentley lists the pan bolts to be 15 ft/lbs. The bolts to the seal carriers should be 89 in/lbs. I’m thinking your bolt was defective if it snapped.



Quote:
Originally Posted by shoebear View Post
So depending on your wrench, all this obsessing over getting the right torque may be for naught. And I do recommend the Neikos for showing you what your torque values really are.

Interesting.... how are you establishing baseline? Comparing the Neikos, to each other?

Do you use your torque wrenches on a consistent basis? My 1/2” and 3/8 Craftsman’s are probably 20+ years old. I don’t use mine that often, so I’m hoping they’re still accurate. In my early years, I was unaware to reset them to “0”, when not in use.

I very recently bought a HF 1/4”, to attach an oil pan. I was tired of installing coils in seal carriers. I remember reading reviews about how accurate the HF ones were.

-Todd
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Old October 20th, 2019, 19:21   #7
shoebear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Interesting.... how are you establishing baseline? Comparing the Neikos, to each other?

Do you use your torque wrenches on a consistent basis? My 1/2” and 3/8 Craftsman’s are probably 20+ years old. I don’t use mine that often, so I’m hoping they’re still accurate. In my early years, I was unaware to reset them to “0”, when not in use.

I very recently bought a HF 1/4”, to attach an oil pan. I was tired of installing coils in seal carriers. I remember reading reviews about how accurate the HF ones were.
I'm trusting the accuracy of the Neikos:
  • Strain gauge technology is inherently accurate and is used in top-of-the-line digital torque wrenches.
  • The Neikos are rated +/- 2%
  • They were accompanied with calibration test sheets showing actual accuracy at about 0.5% off.
Yes, I use torque wrenches on a very consistent basis (although now I wonder about all the bolts I torqued with my inaccurate wrenches).

I did find videos on YouTube showing how to calibrate torque wrenches. So I will give that a try soon. My current routine:
  • Find the correct torque spec
  • Set the Neiko
  • Use the Neiko to set the torque wrench
  • Torque the bolt.
is tedious and time consuming. Calibrating my clock wrenches hopefully would make them accurate enough for most fasteners.
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1998 Jetta TDi: Luk clutch, K04/K03 hybrid turbo, balanced Bosio DLC1019 stage1 nozzles, Kerma chip, braided turbo oil feed line, Frost Heater
2003 Jetta TDi wagon: Luk clutch, VNT17. Bought 9/2014, still doing initial repairs.
2005 New Beetle GLS TDi: Kerma "Dog Collar", Frost Heater, Panzer Plate, Evo lift, Koni yellows
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Old October 20th, 2019, 19:28   #8
ToddA1
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Is there a reason you’re not using the Neikos, as the torque wrench? What am I missing?

They seem to be pretty inexpensive... I’m curious how long they stay accurate.

-Todd
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Old October 20th, 2019, 20:01   #9
shoebear
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ToddA1 View Post
Is there a reason you’re not using the Neikos, as the torque wrench? What am I missing?
They add an inch and a half or two in length, are bulky compared to an extension, and I prefer a tactile click to a steady tone when the target torque is reached.
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1998 Jetta TDi: Luk clutch, K04/K03 hybrid turbo, balanced Bosio DLC1019 stage1 nozzles, Kerma chip, braided turbo oil feed line, Frost Heater
2003 Jetta TDi wagon: Luk clutch, VNT17. Bought 9/2014, still doing initial repairs.
2005 New Beetle GLS TDi: Kerma "Dog Collar", Frost Heater, Panzer Plate, Evo lift, Koni yellows
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Old October 20th, 2019, 20:31   #10
Nuje
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Banjo bolt on the turbo oil feed line (#16) lists as 25Nm; two smaller T30 (I think) bolts (#17) are 15Nm.


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Last edited by Nuje; October 20th, 2019 at 22:49.
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Old October 20th, 2019, 21:02   #11
ToddA1
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I somehow totally misread the thread.... I gave specs for the oil pan bolts.

-Todd
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'97 B4: Stock
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Old October 20th, 2019, 22:34   #12
shoebear
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Thank you, Nuje, that's exactly answers the original question.
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1998 Jetta TDi: Luk clutch, K04/K03 hybrid turbo, balanced Bosio DLC1019 stage1 nozzles, Kerma chip, braided turbo oil feed line, Frost Heater
2003 Jetta TDi wagon: Luk clutch, VNT17. Bought 9/2014, still doing initial repairs.
2005 New Beetle GLS TDi: Kerma "Dog Collar", Frost Heater, Panzer Plate, Evo lift, Koni yellows
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